New Cooler Mash Tun - Braid or Manifold?

I sold my 10 gallon Rubbermaid MLT to brew bud and now need to make another one. I just picked up this 70 qt Coleman Extreme at Academy for $36. I need to put a ball valve on it and either a braid or build a manifold for it. I batch sparge, so I'm stoked that I'll be able to do bigger beers now with just one addition of hot water.

So, who has a braid and who has a manifold and what are your efficiencies for batch sparging?

I started with a braid and went up to a manifold. I kept hitting my braid and wrecking it. I was getting high 70's with a braid, I get mid to high 80's with my manifold. I have a drill-press so I went with drilled holes instead of the slots that seem to be more usual.

What did you use in the old MLT and how was the efficiency with it?

I had great results with my braid, although I only used it twice on my 5g round cooler. Now I use the 10g igloo with a false bottom, so I'm no help there.

The braid worked really well for me. The local homebrew club here uses those huge 7 day deep freeze monster huge coffin tuns, and they use a REALLY short braid. Basically a T right inside the cooler with a braid that circles around to both sides...about a 4" round semi circle I guess. It seems to work for them, they have 4 coolers set up that way for the big brews.

I use a braid and hit between 80 and 89% depending on my sparge methods.

My manifold system gives me high 80s with a double sparge. You can crush extremely fine with no sticking. Here's a pic before I cut the slots:

http://i7.tinypic.com/53ztusj.jpg

JnJ said:

What did you use in the old MLT and how was the efficiency with it?

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Here's my old one and I get into the 80s with it.

I'd go with the manifold for one simple reason: it gives you a choice. I know you batch sparge, but who's to say someday you might not want to try fly sparging just for the hell of it? You can only batch sparge with a braid, but you can do either with a manifold.

Bernie Brewer said:

I'd go with the manifold for one simple reason: it gives you a choice. I know you batch sparge, but who's to say someday you might not want to try fly sparging just for the hell of it? You can only batch sparge with a braid, but you can do either with a manifold.

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I fly sparge with a braid and have had no problems. In the 80% range.

I'm going with false bottom. Yep, you should build a false bottom for that bad boy.



Seriously, I can't speak from experience. I use a keg MLT. But if it were me, I go with a manifold. I don't think you'd see any real difference in efficiency either way, but I know braids can float and get dorked up from stirring, etc.

if you put a brass plug in the end, it won't float due to the weight.

I like the SS braid. Cheap, no real assembly required. What you might do is put a T on the ball valve and run two braids around the outside edge to get more coverage like a manifold with the benefits of a easy flowing braid.

I get mid-80s batch sparging in a 50 QT rectangle cooler with a braid.

I have the 52 qrt. as a mash-tun and it works quite well.
I am getting high 70's -low 80's effiecincy fly sparging - but have been playing with serveral variables this year.
Let me know if you want a pic on how I made the manifold fit into the drain groove.

Cheers.

Axegod said:

Let me know if you want a pic on how I made the manifold fit into the drain groove.

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Let's see it, please!

No channeling???

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Not that I've noticed. Here's a pic of my setup.




The braid is long and coils around the bottom of the cooler. I haven't noticed any evidence of channeling when I scoop out the spent grains.

I tried the braid and hated it. I built a manifold and could not be happier and I hit 82-87% everytime

Cookiebags, you've got really good coverage with your braid. I've got no doubts that it works well with fly sparging. Usually people use a little straight section of the SS braid, which wouldn't work so well with fly sparging.

'Course, you probably know that - it was more for others who may be reading and picking up info.

EdWort said:

Let's see it, please!

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Here it is....







Images show that the manifold can be taken apart for cleaning.
Please ignore the messy solidering job - hey, it works.
The middle part runs down the drain channel to the opening. It took a while to get this right.

I made the spacing of the tubes according to Palmer with regards to space between tubes and the wall. I used a dremmel cutting wheel to get the grooves nice and clean. I am using a pex-type connector to hook up the inside manifold to a ball valve on the outside (not shown). The tubing is 5/8 " ID coil copper. This really helped for the drain channel as I could bend it slightly for a perfect fit. You can that I have a few bends in it from cleaning...I just straighten before using. Also, I dont fasten the manifold down at all. The dimensions keep the whole thing in place, especailly with the weight of the grains and water on top.

I thought of several different designs for this - but this seemed like it would work the best for me.

I hope this gives you some ideas.

Cheers.

SS braid,rectangular cooler,batch sparge......85% most every time.
Cheers

Or use CPVC like I did if you do not want solder in your mash, comes apart easy to clean as well.

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Brew-boy said:

Or use CPVC like I did if you do not want solder in your mash, comes apart easy to clean as well.

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what did you use to attach pvc manifold to bulkhead?

I use a braid, and get around 75% efficiency. I am however, tied to my LHBS's crush. When I get my own mill, I hope to see a bit of an increase.

I just built a new mash tun using the same cooler (70qt Coleman Xtreme). You can see how I did it here.

-Steve

So Ed, what did you end up doing with this? I'm going to be buying this exact cooler in a few weeks.

BNVince said:

So Ed, what did you end up doing with this? I'm going to be buying this exact cooler in a few weeks.

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I want to build a manifold, but have not gotten around to it. I have not even used the braid yet, but perhaps next weekend.

I keep borrowing my old MLT from the guy who bought it from me.