Facelift for my control panel

Yakima 728
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IPAfreek said:
Thanks for the inspiration! Was worried about cost of building my eHERMS system, but have been convinced 24vdc pumps will do the trick. Finally realized everything doesn't have to be Blichmann! Only thing that sucks is most of everything is coming from China... shipping is going to take forever and I just wish it was American made. Cheers!:mug:
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I hear you.
Perhaps if I made the kind of money they must be paying the craftsmen over at blichmann to justify what they are charging for their products I would own some of them...
 
IPAfreek said:
Thanks for the inspiration! Was worried about cost of building my eHERMS system, but have been convinced 24vdc pumps will do the trick. Finally realized everything doesn't have to be Blichmann! Only thing that sucks is most of everything is coming from China... shipping is going to take forever and I just wish it was American made. Cheers!:mug:
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat. I'm finally making the jump from propane BIAB to eBIAB, and this thread was exactly what I needed to convince me. Instead of spending $300+ on just the control panel, it's just over $100, thanks to eBay, the most expensive part being the plastic box from Home Depot. I'll post some pics, when my parts get here next month...
 
augiedoggy said:
I hear you.
Perhaps if I made the kind of money they must be paying the craftsmen over at blichmann to justify what they are charging for their products I would own some of them...
Click to expand...

While im all for chinese cheapness, you do get what you pay for. A lot of stuff from China is good but i went through like 3 of those 12V DC chinese pumps before i just gave up and got a March pump on sale.

Yes i could buy 8 of those pumps for the price of 1 march pump, but one ruined brew day because my pump decides to **** itself is worth the extra $ sometimes ;)
 
FuzzeWuzze said:
While im all for chinese cheapness, you do get what you pay for. A lot of stuff from China is good but i went through like 3 of those 12V DC chinese pumps before i just gave up and got a March pump on sale.

Yes i could buy 8 of those pumps for the price of 1 march pump, but one ruined brew day because my pump decides to **** itself is worth the extra $ sometimes ;)
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your opinion, (and your entitled to it) my experience has been completely different
I think that has more to do with how you treat and use them and what you expect of them... I have purchased 7 of the dc pumps (because I upgraded from 12 to 24v pumps) and all but the one I dropped and broke are still working fine 2 years and about 53 brews later....
If you really went through 3 of them, I would have to say you were either doing something wrong or you were not powering them right... Did they seize up? thats a good indication your false bottom system wasnt working well and grain was getting through or plugging your line to the pump. this is why I have the three layers of filtering in my mashtun... the dc pumps are small and cant pump solids. I also believe using a ballvalve to restrict flow can shorten thier life due to additional stress on the impeller and the bushings like I have seen with these type of pumps in the aquarium world.

Like anything here different people expect different things and have drastically different opinions about things here... For $18 a piece 3 of the the little 24v and even the weaker 12v pumps are a better value than one march or chugger for my use. especially since I have absolutely no need for more than 2 gallon a minute flow rate for anything I do in my brewing procedure... 3 smaller pumps work so much better than two oversized chinese chugger or march pumps that I would have to disconnect and move hoses around to use each brew session.

One great thing about having multiple dc pumps for less than the cost of one march pump is you can always swap the pump with another if you were to have a problem and your brew day and mood isnt ruined because your out $130... So your seeing it and justifying it to yourself the way you want to but see how I can spin that right around and make it an advantage? I see threads here all the time were peoples chugger or march pumps have failed on them and its a much bigger problem than if one of these fail since most dont have extras due to the higher cost. your comparing chinese cheapness to the bigger version of chinese cheapness here...

The only difference is marketing and supply and demand... its really no different than the people that complain about the cheap stuff sold direct on amazon or ebay but yet they have no issue buying that very same chinese product for three times the price through an American middleman such as aubrins...

I have "an american" pump company about 4 blocks from where I live where they use to make pumps... now they mostly import them and install American cords and capcitors for 120v and slap a made in the usa sticker on them because final assy was done here. My buddy who makes about $12 an hour spent 5 minutes doing this "american conversion" which enables this American company to now charge $200 for the pump they likely purchased from china for $20 to an unsuspecting american who believes hes just bought a great quality American made pump purchased from a large longstanding American pump company for his $200 not believing for a second its the same pump as the ones sold on alibaba for $40...
It doesnt always work like this but the instances where it does grow more and more each day.... one could argue that by refusing to buy from these fake american "middlemen" will do more to bring the industry back here than it will to line their pockets for taking it elsewhere right?If im going to buy something made in china I would just as soon hand the money to the chinese for it and 4 times as much to a middle man for hypocritical piece of mind..

This topic is a rabbit hole I would rather not take this thread off topic with

BTW if you want to buy these same 12v and 24v pumps from a us company you can buy them from US solar for about $45 a piece... (rebranded as a US solar pump of course) no affiliation with the company I mention above.
 
Augie has hit on a great point about the little tan pumps, its super economical to have a spare kicking around in case of failure. That's a way harder sell with a march or a chugger. As it stands if I ever have a pump issue during a brew day it will take about 5 minutes to move the power cord to a new pump and I'm back in business
 
Every time I see a pic of @augiedoggy 's set up, I almost laugh out loud at the simplicity of screwing the pump to the kettle - genius I tell ya, it's genius.
 
DNKDUKE said:
Every time I see a pic of @augiedoggy 's set up, I almost laugh out loud at the simplicity of screwing the pump to the kettle - genius I tell ya, it's genius.
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well I use quick disconnect camlocks and the pumps all plug in with xlr connectors so swapping power wouldnt be an issue if needed.
so if something did fail its easy to swap pumps but in over 50 brew sessions with these pumps I have had no failures.. I did have a pump get stuck once for about 30 second s and turning it off and on got it going again.
 
Auggie, I'm looking at those rotameters on eBay, and I'm not sure which one to get. With the 24v pump, which is what I'll be using, how many GPM do you max out out? The pump I got lists 720 liters per hour max, which is like 3.1 GPM. Do you ever actually see the flow that high, or would the 2.4 GPM rotameter work? Thanks.
 
seven9st_surfer said:
Auggie, I'm looking at those rotameters on eBay, and I'm not sure which one to get. With the 24v pump, which is what I'll be using, how many GPM do you max out out? The pump I got lists 720 liters per hour max, which is like 3.1 GPM. Do you ever actually see the flow that high, or would the 2.4 GPM rotameter work? Thanks.
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2.2 is about the highest I get unless I run two pumps in a series when cleaning ... Then it maxes out my 2.5 gpm meter....you would be fine with either meter. Normally I turn the pump down when sparging and when recirculating the trainer and filtering brings the flow down around 1.8 average.
 
augiedoggy said:
2.2 is about the highest I get unless I run two pumps in a series when cleaning ... Then it maxes out my 2.5 gpm meter....you would be fine with either meter. Normally I turn the pump down when sparging and when recirculating the trainer and filtering brings the flow down around 1.8 average.
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Awesome, thanks. 2.4 meter ordered.

One more question for you. I noticed you're doing a false bottom and double stainless mesh/screen on your inlet tube. I'm building a BIAB setup, and will need the false bottom to keep the bag off the elements. I'm trying to figure out the best way to keep the wort as clear as possible into the pump to avoid a clog. In my thread HERE, it was mentioned that using braided stainless with a false bottom might clog the braid. You ever experienced that?

I was planning using a voile bag, a false bottom made out of a splatter screen, and a braided stainless inlet. Any recommendations?
 
seven9st_surfer said:
Awesome, thanks. 2.4 meter ordered.

One more question for you. I noticed you're doing a false bottom and double stainless mesh/screen on your inlet tube. I'm building a BIAB setup, and will need the false bottom to keep the bag off the elements. I'm trying to figure out the best way to keep the wort as clear as possible into the pump to avoid a clog. In my thread HERE, it was mentioned that using braided stainless with a false bottom might clog the braid. You ever experienced that?

I was planning using a voile bag, a false bottom made out of a splatter screen, and a braided stainless inlet. Any recommendations?
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I have not experienced a stuck mash yet. I use the three layers of filtration but you will have the bag with I believe will be very effective itself in preventing the grain from getting in the pump...the recirculation through the grain itself is what will clear up your wort... You will see the cloudy wort change color and turn clearer as the mash process goes..

I should add that I have had the stainless braid become partially plugged and slow the recirculation down to say 1.5gpm but that's as bad as I've seen.
I use the pwm speed controllers to very slowly start the recirculation and ramp it up over the course of a minute or so after I feel the grain has settled for the most part
 
Good to know. I'll be using a PWM controller as well, so that sounds like a good technique, slowly ramping up the speed. Can't wait for everything to get here and start the build. Thanks for the help!
 
where did you find , and how did you wire up your estop switch? im having trouble locating the parts. I am basically using PJ 240v/30a single element design but would like a true estop rather than a pull to ground. it would seem like I would need a 3 pole contactor to control red black and white(neutral) on the incoming power, but where do I pick up the power for the coil? assuming the black and neutral from the incoming feed?
 
aaronlalonde said:
where did you find , and how did you wire up your estop switch? im having trouble locating the parts. I am basically using PJ 240v/30a single element design but would like a true estop rather than a pull to ground. it would seem like I would need a 3 pole contactor to control red black and white(neutral) on the incoming power, but where do I pick up the power for the coil? assuming the black and neutral from the incoming feed?
Click to expand...

I use my estop as a second power switch... its wired in a series with the main power switch I bought it on ebay for $3
 
aaronlalonde said:
where did you find , and how did you wire up your estop switch? im having trouble locating the parts. I am basically using PJ 240v/30a single element design but would like a true estop rather than a pull to ground. it would seem like I would need a 3 pole contactor to control red black and white(neutral) on the incoming power, but where do I pick up the power for the coil? assuming the black and neutral from the incoming feed?
Click to expand...

Single pole double throw. You only run the two hots through the contactor. If you get one with a 120v coil then yes, you use one hot and neutral. Look at how Kal wires his main power contactor at electricbrewery.com.
 
seven9st_surfer said:
That's what I was going to do, but I can only find ones rated to 10A. Are you using yours to trigger a relay, or did you find a beefy e stop?
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well my element power is controlled by both ssrs and 24v dc coil activated relays so when the emergency stop is hit the power is killed to my 24v powersupply which powers the pumps, relays, my stirrer as well as the circuit which powers all my pids,timer, ext,

in a nutshell both my ssr and relays would have to malfunction at the same time for the element to stay on....and thats where the gfci comes in :)
 
My 24v DC pumps came in... these suckers are tiny! My wife say them and called them cute :drunk: Just need everything else to come in off the slow boat from China.
 
IPAfreek said:
My 24v DC pumps came in... these suckers are tiny! My wife say them and called them cute :drunk: Just need everything else to come in off the slow boat from China.
Click to expand...

Mine came in yesterday. Half of the flat part on the bottom was broken off, so it's a good thing I wasn't planning on mounting it and just connecting it directly to my kettle ball valve. I also clipped the connector off, and extended the cord out to 6', added a 5.5x2.1 dc jack on the end, and sleeved the whole thing. Much better. I thought I was going to break the inlet and outlet off tightening down the camlocks, though...
 
seven9st_surfer said:
Mine came in yesterday. Half of the flat part on the bottom was broken off, so it's a good thing I wasn't planning on mounting it and just connecting it directly to my kettle ball valve. I also clipped the connector off, and extended the cord out to 6', added a 5.5x2.1 dc jack on the end, and sleeved the whole thing. Much better. I thought I was going to break the inlet and outlet off tightening down the camlocks, though...
Click to expand...

They will likely mail out a replacement if you post a message to that seller.
 
seven9st_surfer said:
Mine came in yesterday. Half of the flat part on the bottom was broken off, so it's a good thing I wasn't planning on mounting it and just connecting it directly to my kettle ball valve. I also clipped the connector off, and extended the cord out to 6', added a 5.5x2.1 dc jack on the end, and sleeved the whole thing. Much better. I thought I was going to break the inlet and outlet off tightening down the camlocks, though...
Click to expand...

I used 18awg speaker wire to extend the power cables to 10ft and added xlr connecter to plug them into my control panel where the power supply and pwm speed controllers are mounted... the dc jacks a perfect solution too..

I replaced my boil kettle today with a bayou classic 62 quart stainless kettle I got for $89 with tax and shipping... it was an open box buy with the slightest bend in the lid I can easily fix but wont be using anyway...
Now I can do longer boils with more wort than my old 13 gallon setup allowed...
funny thing though the 62 quarts measured out to be actually 60 quarts to the top with just the heating element and diptube inside... not sure how that works out.

the orange wheat/pale ale I made with the new rims tube came out pretty damn good...hope to get it kegged tomorrow and cold crash it for the forth weekend at Jaminthevalley.com coming up
 
augiedoggy said:
I used 18awg speaker wire to extend the power cables to 10ft and added xlr connecter to plug them into my control panel where the power supply and pwm speed controllers are mounted... the dc jacks a perfect solution too..

I replaced my boil kettle today with a bayou classic 62 quart stainless kettle I got for $89 with tax and shipping... it was an open box buy with the slightest bend in the lid I can easily fix but wont be using anyway...
Now I can do longer boils with more wort than my old 13 gallon setup allowed...
funny thing though the 62 quarts measured out to be actually 60 quarts to the top with just the heating element and diptube inside... not sure how that works out.

the orange wheat/pale ale I made with the new rims tube came out pretty damn good...hope to get it kegged tomorrow and cold crash it for the forth weekend at Jaminthevalley.com coming up
Click to expand...

Shoot, not sure why I didn't think of XLR for my pump, too. That's what I have my probe connector as, and now my OCD won't let me have 2 different kind of jacks...

And speaking of the probes, did anyone else's China probes have some kind of fabric insulation instead of plastic? This is the one that I got. I clipped off the spade connectors at the end, expecting to just convert it to XLR, but after seeing that insulation, and checking the probe end too (which was a mess of solder and all the bare wires touching), I just redid the whole thing. New wire and XLR, and matching sleeving. Haven't had a chance to test it out yet, hopefully it works better than it looked.
 
seven9st_surfer said:
Shoot, not sure why I didn't think of XLR for my pump, too. That's what I have my probe connector as, and now my OCD won't let me have 2 different kind of jacks...

And speaking of the probes, did anyone else's China probes have some kind of fabric insulation instead of plastic? This is the one that I got. I clipped off the spade connectors at the end, expecting to just convert it to XLR, but after seeing that insulation, and checking the probe end too (which was a mess of solder and all the bare wires touching), I just redid the whole thing. New wire and XLR, and matching sleeving. Haven't had a chance to test it out yet, hopefully it works better than it looked.
Click to expand...

I use 2 of those same sensors and I had no issues soldering an xlr connector to the end? mine have teflon or vinyl insulation if I remember right. I dont care for the stainless braided cable since it kinks and catches on things easily. I used that type first then went to these. ironically the ones you have are considered the upgraded premium cables... auber charges extra for them.
I use smaller xlr connectors for the temp probes than the pumps..
 
augiedoggy said:
I use 2 of those same sensors and I had no issues soldering an xlr connector to the end? mine have teflon or vinyl insulation if I remember right. I dont care for the stainless braided cable since it kinks and catches on things easily. I used that type first then went to these. ironically the ones you have are considered the upgraded premium cables... auber charges extra for them.
I use smaller xlr connectors for the temp probes than the pumps..
Click to expand...

Huh, they must have changed the insulation recently, then. And I agree about the SS cable. It sure sounded nice, but when I got it, I could tell it would kink like crazy when I go to actually use it. The sleeving that's now on my pump and probe is this stuff. I've used it for everything from computer PSU cables to custom-made audio cables. Great stuff.

EDIT: Here's a pic of the "insulation". Sorry for the crappy cell pic.

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i ordered all the material i missed! I will try to build something similiar!
I still cant find the glass meter you have on the kegs and most of people has.. I only find american suppliers and the shipment is very expensive!
 
Freskhu said:
I will try! I am from Portugal.
I got Very good conditions from Ásia but from America the costume rates and the shipping are huge
Click to expand...

I Bet they are... You can also use 1/2" clear polycarbonate tubing and a 1/2" compression fitting (or metric equal) and make your own sight glass too.

Well good luck on your build! :mug:
 
augiedoggy said:
I Bet they are... You can also use 1/2" clear polycarbonate tubing and a 1/2" compression fitting (or metric equal) and make your own sight glass too.

Well good luck on your build! :mug:
Click to expand...

Thank you again!
I will try in my some local store, i cant find in china!
I think i am complicating my build :S lets see if i can brew something!
I am being inspired by your rig :)
thank you
 
some of these are old but to be clear Ive done a bit of rearranging with my new 15.5 gallon BK... MT is now in the canter and BK on left. last pic is a pumpkin spice ale I made last night through the flow meter while recirculating. everything worked perfect. I even forgot to turn the rims off and the flow switch did it for me this time :)

I ordered another 12.5 gallon stainless conical from ebay last night... $362 with shipping and even includes a butterfly valve :)
I've found my beers come out way better from the conical due to my ability to easily dump the dead yeast and the fact that I'm often too lazy to rack into a secondary with a carboy.

IMG_20150901_185504_489.jpg


IMG_20150623_153538_434.jpg


IMG_20150623_153623_910.jpg


IMG_20150901_185440_295.jpg
 
Thanks OP for this thread.

I'm still in the pipe dream stage of my electric build but threads like this stellar gem are incredibly useful. More novel ideas in this one than you can shake a stick at. Can't say I understand all the terms yet but the obvious skill and ingenuity that's gone into your brewery just leap off the screen.

Just class! Thanks again
 
Gavin C said:
Thanks OP for this thread.

I'm still in the pipe dream stage of my electric build but threads like this stellar gem are incredibly useful. More novel ideas in this one than you can shake a stick at. Can't say I understand all the terms yet but the obvious skill and ingenuity that's gone into your brewery just leap off the screen.

Just class! Thanks again
Click to expand...
Thank you Sir! Just trying to share what I have learned to help others out... One of these days when I get a camera man to help I would like to do a run through video since it always makes more sense to see it in action.

Of course its an always evolving process since the engineering side of me loves building and improving the system as much as the creative side loves to brew beer.
 
augiedoggy said:
all the manufactuer states is the float sensor and plunger are imported for use... they do state the plastic float switches housings are made of polycarbonate which comes in food grade and non food grade from what I read in wiki. the manufacturer does list water purifiers and supermarket applications so I really hope its foodgrade...
Click to expand...

Thank you for your time spent posting this thread. Very inspiring. Could you please link the float switch that you use?
 

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