Planned simple 1 element build

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mrbippers

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I've been planning things out for a while and want to get the parts ordered pretty soon, but figured it's best I put the plan up here for comments first. I'm looking at doing a single 5500W element run by PID/SSR. This is all 240V wiring as I'm using a 30A 3wire GFCI line cord. The only thing beyond the basic is a DPST switch to control the element. Thanks.
wiring.gif
 
Looks good to me. What kind of 2-pole switch are you using? You could just do a main power switch by switching the power to the PID. If the PID is dead, your element wont fire. Of course one leg to the element would always be hot...
 
mrbippers said:
That's the part I want to avoid if possible. For the switch I plan on using this one that I have seen recommended in other threads.
Click to expand...

It's really not a big deal as long as you KNOW it's hot. But the switch looks good. The contactor as mentioned is another good option. The contactor can also be rated for the full 30A of your breaker.
 
Sorry, I just noticed that the Auber contactor won't work for you as the coil is 120V and it doesn't look like you're going to have 120V in your panel. Carry on...

Edit- Auber also has a contactor with a 240V coil, so you should be good to go.
 
lschiavo said:
It's really not a big deal as long as you KNOW it's hot. But the switch looks good. The contactor as mentioned is another good option. The contactor can also be rated for the full 30A of your breaker.
Click to expand...

agreed.. one leg of you water heater, dryer, a/c, etc are hot in most instances also.. if you are worried about danger, whatever it is, that same 'danger' is there when the element is powered...
 
clearwaterbrewer said:
agreed.. one leg of you water heater, dryer, a/c, etc are hot in most instances also.. if you are worried about danger, whatever it is, that same 'danger' is there when the element is powered...
Click to expand...

Good point. And all of those appliances require a disconnect by code. A cord/plug is an approved disconnect so you are covered.
 
Okay so sounds like I might just skip the switch.

Another quick question for anyone who knows their NEC code. I currently have a main panel, a sub panel connected by a breaker in the main, and an additional panel 50a/240V panel for my stove connected to feed-thru lugs in the main. Is it okay to connect a second panel for the 30a kettle supply to the feed-thru lugs or am I only allowed to feed one panel? Hooking up a second box is easier than upgrading the first with more space and heavier wire.
 
mrbippers said:
Okay so sounds like I might just skip the switch.

Another quick question for anyone who knows their NEC code. I currently have a main panel, a sub panel connected by a breaker in the main, and an additional panel 50a/240V panel for my stove connected to feed-thru lugs in the main. Is it okay to connect a second panel for the 30a kettle supply to the feed-thru lugs or am I only allowed to feed one panel? Hooking up a second box is easier than upgrading the first with more space and heavier wire.
Click to expand...

I would put some sort of main switch in your panel. We were just giving you some other options. As drawn should work fine.

Most lugs are not rated for more than one conductor so adding another tap to your feed through lugs may not be correct. You could replace the stove panel with a small load-center and gain a few future breakers while at it. Six service disconnects is the rule. You have two now if I understand correctly.
 
lschiavo said:
Most lugs are not rated for more than one conductor so adding another tap to your feed through lugs may not be correct. You could replace the stove panel with a small load-center and gain a few future breakers while at it. Six service disconnects is the rule. You have two now if I understand correctly.
Click to expand...

That's probably what I'll wind up doing, just means I need to upgrade to thicker copper feeding the sub panel. I had some 10G around and was trying to save time. Only in the house another year so trying to minimize my investments.

Also, if I'm going to go with the switch would it make more sense to put it upstream of the PID? That way when I cut the power with the switch it kills the PID and the element at the same time.
 
L630 is a 240v only, if you use the ground as a neutral you will trip the GFCI instantly.
the NEMA L1430 is rated for 120/240, it is 4wire(2 hots,1 neutral, 1 ground)
 
lazybean said:
L630 is a 240v only, if you use the ground as a neutral you will trip the GFCI instantly.
the NEMA L1430 is rated for 120/240, it is 4wire(2 hots,1 neutral, 1 ground)
Click to expand...

The Auber PID can be powered by a range of AC voltage I believe. I assumed it was powered with 240V in this circuit. It should be ok I think.
 
My bad, when i looked at the wiring diagram i thought he had the SSR and Controler running 120 off the ground.

Should put my beer down when posting.:mug:
 

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