4912 tower installation - please help!

When mounting tower to top of kegerator (Sanyo 4912), do you use a gasket? I got the ACU tower, didn't come w/a gasket -- are most folks leaving it gasket-less or using something as gasket>?

LouT said:

I got the ACU tower

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Forgive me for hijacking your thread, but I'm also building a 4912 and want to know what an "ACU tower" is?

Thanks!

TRNDRVR said:

Forgive me for hijacking your thread, but I'm also building a 4912 and want to know what an "ACU tower" is?

Thanks!

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Its ACU Sheetmtal Fabrications, where you can build your own tower.

LouT said:

When mounting tower to top of kegerator (Sanyo 4912), do you use a gasket? I got the ACU tower, didn't come w/a gasket -- are most folks leaving it gasket-less or using something as gasket>?

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Lou, they are supposed to come with a gasket as well. Either call them up to get one sent out, or check out your auto parts store for a sheet of gasket material. I have a Micromatic tower, and the gasket was very thin. Im sure I could have done without it, and Im sure some people have gone without using them. To me, all it does is help seal the tower to the top a little.

Thanks, Tony. Just double checked, and it sure didn't come w/a gasket. I think the homemade gasket idea is good, I'm not too big on silicone for something I might need to pull back apart to troubleshoot (or clean). -Lou

UPDATE: I'm a dips**t. I pulled the top cover off the tower to start cutting the insulation so I can install the shanks, and the gasket was folded up and inside.
Cool, saves me some BS.

Lou,

You mind sharing what you bought and a price range? The ACU sight doesn't have a list of prices.

A pic of your setup would be great.

LouT said:

UPDATE: I'm a dips**t. I pulled the top cover off the tower to start cutting the insulation so I can install the shanks, and the gasket was folded up and inside.
Cool, saves me some BS.

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AWESOME!!!

I was thinking about the hole to be drilled for the tower. I would think it only needs to be the size of tubing, not 3".

I'm going to a 1.5" hole since I'll be running two taps.

Any thoughts?

I paid a higher price than what most have quoted on these boards. Actually, I got the 14" tall tower, brushed stainless, with two holes, and it was right at $75 shipped to me (from CA), I think it was quoted at $64 + shipping. I got the 90 degree shanks at micromatic , to get the stainless ones at a decent price, I think they were about $24-26 bucks each. I got the Shirron faucettes at northern brewer, I think they are listing their price on the web, can't remember what it was. ACU quoted me some outrageously expensive price for the drip tray with the cutout for the tower - I think something like $125 -- so I took a pass on that, will get a plain old rectangular stainless one for $14.99 at barproducts.com. Might go with one of those rubber shaker matts, too or instead, not sure yet.
I was starting to shop for a hole saw and wanted to go large to allow more air flow up into the tower. I'm glad I waited, the opening in bottom of tower is large enough that I could have made a 2.75" hole, but with the instulation in there (it comes with) you're only going to flow air in through a 2" opening, saw I bought a cheap 2" holesaw for $4 bucks at lowes - haven't drilled yet, just found the line with the vodka/cornstarch method. Mine's more like 7.5" from the back of the fridge, so I'm glad I checked, may need to relocate the hole...

Wife has digital cam, away visiting relatives, but I'll try to snap off some pics when done. I think I'm going to copy Buford and put the stainless rails on the top back and sides, it finishes off the look pretty nicely.

You dont have to use a gasket... although its nice to use it incase you spill something. You wont get liquid down in the kegerator.

homebrewer_99 said:

I was thinking about the hole to be drilled for the tower. I would think it only needs to be the size of tubing, not 3".

I'm going to a 1.5" hole since I'll be running two taps.

Any thoughts?

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There are a couple different mindsets on the hole sizes. One is cutting a 3" hole and running a tube up into it, with the other end connected to a small fan to try and force colder air up into the tower (just remember to make sure the air can recirculate down back into the kegerator as well via another tube, or dead spafe in the tower). Or, packing your tower with insulation, and cutting a smaller hole, 1 1/2" to 2" hole to minimize cold air loss into the tower.

Basically it comes down to the temperature of the room the kegerator is in. If it is a warm room most of the year, then the 3" hole with a cooling fan is a great way to ensure the tower and lines stay cooler. If you room is cooler most of the year, then packing the tower with insulation and cutting a smaller hole is good.

Myself, I drilled a 3" hole, with no insulation or fan, and because of my room temps, it stays pretty cool.

sirsloop said:

You dont have to use a gasket... although its nice to use it incase you spill something. You wont get liquid down in the kegerator.

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I'm gonna go with a thin bead of silicone caulk and trim it out around the base to be certain. Same thing when I put the board in underneath. That'll seal it completely off. I just got done putting in a bathroom sink a couple of weeks ago so I still have supplies on-hand.

Thanks for the pricing info LouT.

Did you have to call ACU for a quote? Doesn't seem they are fond of displaying pricing on their sight.

Seems strange in these days when we feel more comfortable texting on the net than talking in person. Not that I do that.

Yup, call ACU, the lady that answered the phone actually gave me the quotes, took my order, and even had another gal phone me back with the exact shipping price and tracking number when it was being shipped.

Well, I got the tower itself mounted to the top base. My wooden piece is probably closer to 12 or 14" -- I went bigger to keep more strength into it with the taller 14" tower. I still have to mount the shanks, hoses, faucettes, etc. but I'm going to let the silicone cure tonight. I didn't silicone the wood down to the metal fridge-top, though, but may do that once I know the whole assembly is fine.
With the ACU tower, I used 1/4-20 stainless fasteners and t-nuts, but in reality they are a bit too big - I had to drill the holes in the base of the tower slightly just to get some wiggle room, and the heads of the screws don't sit down nice and flush into the base -- if you call ACU and order a tower, ask for the set of stainless screws for the base - go with 1" long screws, you can cut or grind to shorten them if necessary but likely they will fit the countersinks properly if they come from the manufacturer.
I don't think I can post a photo until I become a paying member... If I can, I haven't figured out how yet.
Bill, I bet you get yours completed before I do.

Don't know about that bet just yet...I haven't received my tower...FEDEX tracker says Monday.

Gotta check my wood supplies too...tomorrow's Sunday, I can stop by Menards for a smaller hole cutter...last time I was there a voice in my head told me to buy the set I had in my hand. I have one for putting in a door lock but that's too big for this job.

I called the welding supplies for air several times today, but no answer.

I've have two kegs in the fridge for over 2 weeks now. I did a CS prime since I didn't have any air. I have 3 more batches ready to put into kegs, but I was hoping my keg brush would show up...probably on Monday also. I have large forearms and can't reach inside them to scrub them. I'll just place the brush on to my drill and pull the trigger.

Yeah, you have to pay to post pics, unless you can get someone else to post them for you...I did that once...

idk... if you have webspace anywhere you can just link them with IMG tags...

I plan to join, just got the address info last night - we don't use paypal so I will have to mail a check in - more than happy to support this awesome site!
Lots going on today - church, going to a H.S. play my oldest son is part of, home project (bathroom), etc. If lucky I will squeeze in some time on the kegerator and HOPEFULLY get a batch of hefe brewed... You can see why I believe you will finish first, Bill!

OK - new question, I still need help:
The 3/16 i.d. beer line I want to use (to keep from needing 20 feet to properly dispense my hefe which is kegging at 23psi), is so tiny, the worm type screw clamps I have are way too big to properly wrap and seal the line to the elbows coming off the shanks -- can someone recommend a specific clamp (model, source, etc.)?

Am I just using tubing that is too small o.d. ? It says 3/16" i.d., 5/16" od, got it from Lowes, also says "not for icemaker use" but I'm not sure why, it is pressure rated for 50psi so that's probably why, I think city water can spike up higher than that.

In most cases you dont even need hose clamps on beer line. Its so damn tight, that you have to cut it off the barbs if you ever want to remove.

If you feel better with clamps, home depot/lowes do sell clamps small enough for that line. I got mine at home depot... its the smallest worm style clamp they had.

lol... 23psi? Going for the monster head I suppose?

For about 3.9 volumes of CO2, (center of 3.3-4.5 range which is the correct volume for the hefe weizen style), if I refrigerate between 33 and 37F (estimating range on kegerator), I should pressureize to 23 psi -- if the chart I was using is correct. I can get away with 7.7 feet of 3/16 line this way.
I have to figure out how to reduce pressure to the non hefe keg, though - no 2nd regulator yet!
My clamps from Lowes were the smallest they sell, and when I screwed one down enough to come even close to fitting the line, it was so distorted I didn't trust it to put even pressure on the hose - I think it will just cut the hose.
At 23psi, if I don't use clamps I'll be forever nervous that there might be a BIG leak -- although the pressure drops DURING POURING down to only about 1 psi at the faucette outlet, it will be holding 23 psi when it is not pouring (my fluid dynamics and hydraulics class being put to real-world use!)
Is there something to make the line "stick" to the barbs, vs. clamping?
Other clamp sources?

Have you tried removing a beer hose that has been on a properly sized barb yet? In most cases, you cannot remove them without heating the hose.

I suppose if you are unable to source clamps, you can simply get saftey wire, make a loop around the hose, and twist with plyers until tight. Clip the end off with side cutters, and you have effectively made yourself a hose clamp. The barb itsself is the sealing mechanism, where as the hose clamp is there to prevent the hose from back off the barb from pressure.

You could go barbless ala Great Fridge project.
http://www.ihomebrewsolutions.com/TheGreatFridgeProject.pdf

sirsloop said:

Have you tried removing a beer hose that has been on a properly sized barb yet? In most cases, you cannot remove them without heating the hose.

I suppose if you are unable to source clamps, you can simply get saftey wire, make a loop around the hose, and twist with plyers until tight. Clip the end off with side cutters, and you have effectively made yourself a hose clamp. The barb itsself is the sealing mechanism, where as the hose clamp is there to prevent the hose from back off the barb from pressure.

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FREAKING GENIUS! DOH, I wish I had thought of that, should be easier that fiddling with a clamp down in the tower, too! Just a backup, or to give some pressure so the rubber will SEAL to the barb.

olllllo said:

You could go barbless ala Great Fridge project.
http://www.ihomebrewsolutions.com/TheGreatFridgeProject.pdf

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I like technical, don't get me wrong, I mean I really love technical, but that's just a bit TOO technical for me, for something that's supposed to be a simple and fun project. I suppose I'd feel very comfortable with it once I had done it the first time, but I just lack confidence in ability to keep it from leaking my tank or my keg out over the course of a day (or overnight) during the learning curve....

LouT said:

I like technical, don't get me wrong, I mean I really love technical, but that's just a bit TOO technical for me, for something that's supposed to be a simple and fun project. I suppose I'd feel very comfortable with it once I had done it the first time, but I just lack confidence in ability to keep it from leaking my tank or my keg out over the course of a day (or overnight) during the learning curve....

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Yea. I did'nt go that far either. It is the Gold Standard though. The hack by sirsloop looks promising. I'd change out the hose for some thick wall beverage hose later on though.

Thats actually a great write up. It clearly describes all of the tasks needed to complete a kegerator. The hardest part about that setup was the tricky gas manifold . Getting all that fit together leak free would probably be a little tricky. Other than that, its very straight forward!

I actually have a 3 regulator secondary that I'm thinking of selling if you're interested. I don't plan on running anything on different pressures so I'm going manifold.

OK, I'm still gathering supplies to set up my kegerator, but I ran into a snag...

I found a supply for gas, but we are on different hours. I will have to take time off this week to get into his shop or locate another supplier.
I just got my dual tower today.

At the end of the hoses are butterfly couplings. What system are these designed for?

My first inclination is that I have to cut them off so I can connect to the barbed quick disconnects. Am I correct?

These are the beer to tower lines. Is there a specific length for these?

It's the air to keg line that needs to balanced, right?

homebrewer_99 said:

At the end of the hoses are butterfly couplings. What system are these designed for?

My first inclination is that I have to cut them off so I can connect to the barbed quick disconnects. Am I correct?

These are the beer to tower lines. Is there a specific length for these?

It's the air to keg line that needs to balanced, right?

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I don't know what the butterfly couplings are, but I would think you'd have to cut them off to attach QDs for kegs.

Beer lines are typically 5' if they're 3/16" ID and come already installed in a tower. That's the line that has to be balanced, and 5' should be fine. The length of the gas line doesn't matter.

slightly off topic(sorry)... when mounting tower to bar top, the pvc pipe to the inside of kegerator, should it stop at tower or be slightly smaller than tower and go into it( it being the tower)?
~joe

I don't know, but trying to visualize it I would rather my pvc pipe extend into the fridge for a better seal.

Bobby_M said:

I actually have a 3 regulator secondary that I'm thinking of selling if you're interested. I don't plan on running anything on different pressures so I'm going manifold.

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How bulky is it? I'd like to put it inside the fridge. PM me a price and a photo, or your e-mail address and we can discuss on e-mail. Does it all hold tight or are there any leaks?

olllllo said:

Yea. I did'nt go that far either. It is the Gold Standard though. The hack by sirsloop looks promising. I'd change out the hose for some thick wall beverage hose later on though.

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OH, so I must not have "thick walled" bev. hose -- that would explain it - yes, I better get the right stuff, now instead of later - this hookup at the shanks within the tower is going to be a son of a gun so I only want to do it once.

Buford said:

I don't know what the butterfly couplings are, but I would think you'd have to cut them off to attach QDs for kegs.

On Micromatic or NB site, I can't remember which, they gave some adapters, and you will figure out what the butterfly is for by looking at that stuff -- I think you can use them to attach to sankey tap AND ball lock if you buy the right adapters.

Beer lines are typically 5' if they're 3/16" ID and come already installed in a tower. That's the line that has to be balanced, and 5' should be fine. The length of the gas line doesn't matter.

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True for most, but you might want to put an adapter in-line at the 5' point, so you can adjust your length longer when dispensing hefe, and easily shorten it when dispensing something else -- I think Bill is a steady hefe drinker...

homebrewer_99 said:

I don't know, but trying to visualize it I would rather my pvc pipe extend into the fridge for a better seal.

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I'm not sure what PVC pipe you're referring to. Inside my tower is some foam insulation. I didn't slide it down into the hole in top of fridge, but I did slide it down to just touch the top of the hole. If your tower itself is pvc, I think the flange on the bottom limits you so you can't slide the pvc down into the hole in top of fridge (assuming you're making a homemade kegerator).

Buford, I have to admit copy-catting you on the rails you used - ordered mine early this week from same source you posted (Lee) - I ordered two different length pairs for the sides since I couldn't decide which look I'd like better, I think I ordered the 12" and 16" ones. Whichever pair I don't use I can put to use on something else around here I'm sure.

LouT said:

True for most, but you might want to put an adapter in-line at the 5' point, so you can adjust your length longer when dispensing hefe, and easily shorten it when dispensing something else -- I think Bill is a steady hefe drinker...

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I don't do HW all the time, but I always have some around...OK, I'm a steady HW drinker...

Next question: Does the Sanyo 4912 have room for a "log" type microbrew sanke keg with a normal sanke tap, anyone know?

All
My experience with the Sanyo can be found at the link below..

http://fiberspeed2k.googlepages.com/kegerator

Fiberspeed said:

All
My experience with the Sanyo can be found at the link below..
Feel free to email w/ questions [email protected]...

http://fiberspeed2k.googlepages.com/kegerator

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Looks nice! How do you like having it on casters? To do again, would you have gotten locking casters or non swivel for 1/2 of them? Or bigger diameter for easier rolling? Or rubber wheels vs. plastic?
I was looking at casters last week, before seeing your fridge, couldn't make up my mind if I'd like them on there long term, although if I scratch the hardwood floor I'll be kind of ticked (sliding fridge when moving in & out of "spot" right now).

I don't think you have to worry about scratching the floor with the larger wheels.

I'm planning on mounting my Sanyo on a custom sized dolly because I want to make a box to hold the canister outside (in the back) so I can have access to it at all times. Plus it'll keep me from pushing the fridge back too far against the wall.