Amber DME -- what's the use?

I accidentally ordered some amber DME instead of light DME from an online source. We are talking 6 pounds here! DOH!

After looking through lots of recipes on the site, I realized that this type of dry extract has been shunned from the online brewing community. From what I can tell, there is skepticism as to the variability of the types of grain used. Problems with consistency. Is there any truth to this?

That said, what type of ale would make use of this extract? Is it better to go darker (porter, stout) or something lighter (like an amber ale.....) Any recipe suggestions? Should I just use it for yeast starters?

I never thought the argument against non-light DME (or LME) was that strong. It may be better to use Light extract + specialty grains, but I don't think amber DME should be relegated to starter use only. I believe many kits from NB, AHS and Midwest use amber or dark extract.

Use it for anything but pale beers, more or less. I'd still find a way to make use of specialty grains, maybe in a porter. Or you could use half of it with 3 lbs. LME.

The main problem with amber extract is knowing what makes it amber. Depending on the manufacturer, they may have included some portion of Munich malt, or a mid range crystal, or a smaller amount of darker crystal, possibly some chocolate, etc. But this is not generally indicated on the label. Without knowing exactly what is in the extract, it is hard to know for sure how it will taste!

Hence the general advice to avoid these extracts, go for pale extract that you know is made from 100% pale malt, and add whatever darker grains you want explicitly yourself. That way you know exactly what is going into your recipe, and that you will get the same result as anyone else who uses the same ingredients.

If you can find out what is in the amber extract, that would help in knowing how to use it. This is presumably also why kits from quality homebrew stores are confidently able to use these malts, as they know for sure where they got it and what is in it.

If you can't find out the exact ingredients, I would go with any of the darker styles. It will make good beer, just maybe not exactly the same as what your recipe had in mind.

esarkipato said:

I accidentally ordered some amber DME instead of light DME from an online source. We are talking 6 pounds here! DOH!

After looking through lots of recipes on the site, I realized that this type of dry extract has been shunned from the online brewing community. From what I can tell, there is skepticism as to the variability of the types of grain used. Problems with consistency. Is there any truth to this?

That said, what type of ale would make use of this extract? Is it better to go darker (porter, stout) or something lighter (like an amber ale.....) Any recipe suggestions? Should I just use it for yeast starters?

Click to expand...

There is nothing wrong with Amber DME it just varies in characteristics a little more than light DME. You can use it in any dark beer in replace of light DME without a problem. It may end up a little sweeter or more malty but I have never found that a problem with Brown Ales, Scottish Ales or most Stouts.

I would not use it if you are trying to clone a beer, or if you are trying to make a very pale beer. And ofcourse it is just fine for making starters.

Go ahead and make something. It will be good beer.

Craig

I'm using a pound of Amber DME this weekend in a MG Amber Ale. Going to use it to add a little gravity and color to the "MG" (Mostly Grain) brew.

double-post

Amber DME is great if you end up with a light-ish beer (like a Koelsch) that is lacking just a bit in mouthfeel and "graininess". The Crystal and Munich in the Amber DME take care of that problems very well if you make a very thick wort (just keep in mind that you may need to throw in some extra bittering hops into a dilute wort before adding all of the DME).

OK, suspicions confirmed. Lots of good points for how and why to use Amber DME. Thanks!

I used it for an Alaskan Amber clone that is available on this board in the suggested recipes post and it turned out to be a fantastic beer. Very simple and very good, can't ask for much more.

Papazian lists a recipe for "Righteous American Real Ale" in "The Complete Joy of Home Brewing" that calls for 4 1/2 lbs. of Amber DME. I would be tempted to add some light steeping grains.

I'm sure you can make a nice red ale with it...It's not that bad of a thing...I've seen some "sorta" red IPA's...get creative and use it over time...unless your trying to clone something specific...it's not the end of the world

you could use it for a yeast starter

sometimes my LHBS has a deal on the amber as it does not sell as well

Hmmmmm, red IPA......sounds right up my alley.

For anything on the dark side, an amber extract is just fine. Just think of it as a light extract plus 1/2 lb of C120L.

If I were you I would totally use that to brew a nice Pale Ale or ESB...the main difference is its gonna add a darker hue to the finished product, like David_42 said...

I will gladly use that for my Catamount Pale Ale project coming up in a couple months!

OK, coming up with a almost-imperial red ale. I'm looking for a fairly sweet body with light, floral aroma. Almost like an IIPA but with less bitterness. I could use some comments on the grain bill mostly, but hop suggestions are welcome too. Added Victory for the "bready" flavor, but lots of late hop additions for that ooooh so delicious aroma.

I could easily add some munich, 2-row, vienna, crystal malts but don't know if I need to or not.

LB Malt or Fermentable

8 Amber Dry Malt Extract
1 Victory Malt

Batch size: 5.0 gallons
Original Gravity 1.076
Color 14° SRM (Copper to Red/Lt. Brown)
Mash Efficiency (steeping grain) 60%

hops
time oz variety form aa
60 0.5 Willamette pellet 5.5
30 0.5 Willamette pellet 5.5
15 2.0 Kent Golding pellet 4.5
10 2.0 Arg. Cascade pellet 3.2
0-5 2.0 Fuggles pellet 5.1
Boil: 5.0 avg gallons for 60 minutes

Bitterness
2.8 HBU
32.9 IBU

I recently made what was intended to be an Octoberfest with Munton's amber LME; wound up being more of a Bock. Would have been a lot better had I kept fermenting temps in check (wound up a bit winey though it has conditioned out some). I'm going to have to try to make it again since I think it has a lot of promise, though next time I'll be more careful with the temps. My father-in-law sure likes it though. The one thing he always comments on is how much he loves the color. I dunno kind of a mahogany with almost burgundy highlights.

I ended up making an "english IPA"......yea I just made that up to my knowledge! It was about 6 pounds amber extract, 2 munich, 1/2 victory, 1 of crystal 20L. There were about 8 ounces of english-style hops (fuggle, goldings, etc) added to the boil, and 2 more for dry-hopping. Just using what I have on hand!

Regarding the above batch......

Would 6 lbs Amber DME be a cause for a high finishing gravity? Like 1.022? Seems quite high to me, and still tastes pretty malty.

esarkipato said:

I ended up making an "english IPA"......yea I just made that up to my knowledge!

Click to expand...

No, you didn't make that up. IPA's were created by the Brit's. They would make high gravity, heavily hopped beers that would survive the long trip to India, thus the term "India pale ale". Hops have a natural antiseptic quality, so they would dry hop the brew to protect it over the long journey. If your looking to make your brew even more authentic, throw some oak chips in it to simulate the flavor of a brew transported in oak barrels.