Suggestions for controller

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Ok thanks. Hmm, I looked at sheets for both switches and it looked like they operated the same, no? Maybe I'm missing something.

The other thing that I can't figure out though is why the PID won't come on suddenly. There appears to be power at the unit and the switch seems to be working but the PID doesn't turn on. Im thinking there may be an issue with the neutral all of sudden but I can't seem to find where. I did take the PID out to get the switch in but I just double checked that again.


Oh well, I probably pick it up in the morning and check the whole thing over carefully.
 
Suggestion: Unplug the panel (for sure) and then use an ohm meter to trace your neutral wiring and all of the connections in that path. It sounds like the neutral is open somewhere within the panel.

If not: The next step is to measure the voltage at the outlet where you plug your panel in. If the neutral is open somewhere these 2 techniques should help you find the problem.

Wishing you success and great luck. If we need to talk this through, Please let me know and we'll do it. Ok?

P-J
 
That's great PJ, I appreciate your help. I've got a cold today and have been working hard on this thing, so I think my brain is just shot right now. I'll follow your suggestion and let you know how it's going tomorrow.

Thanks again.
 
Ok thanks. Hmm, I looked at sheets for both switches and it looked like they operated the same, no? Maybe I'm missing something.
I just caught that. I researched the current switch and put together the pertinent info from that data sheet today. I didn't bother researching the previous one. (It's history after all) so I figured???

Oh well... Ok, now on to the new plan.

Paul
 
Got it! Errr, I mean fixed a dumb mistake.

When I was trying to wire the new (huge) switch, I ended up removing some wires that were in the way. What happened was, I unhooked the indicator light's neutral connection. I later hooked that up to the black hot because it was a black wire and I wasn't thinking. By doing that, I left the neutral screw/jumper undone that connected all of the other neutral lines in the panel to the main neutral. So, I hooked it back up to the right spot and all is working! Another stupid mistake remedied!

Thanks PJ for your time!


ETA: Also, I actually moved a hot wire into a spot that I didn't have jumpered as well. I got that moved too. Hopefully no more surprises.
 
Got it! Errr, I mean fixed a dumb mistake.

When I was trying to wire the new (huge) switch, I ended up removing some wires that were in the way. What happened was, I unhooked the indicator light's neutral connection. I later hooked that up to the black hot because it was a black wire and I wasn't thinking. By doing that, I left the neutral screw/jumper undone that connected all of the other neutral lines in the panel to the main neutral. So, I hooked it back up to the right spot and all is working! Another stupid mistake remedied!

Thanks PJ for your time!
You are more than welcome.

Ok... Now>
I unhooked the indicator light's neutral connection. I later hooked that up to the black hot because it was a black wire and I wasn't thinking.
Now you know why color coding the wire is so very important.

I suggest that you replace that chunk of wire to white (the proper color) now. This way you don't run into problems down the road when the overall plan cannot be pulled back from memory. (Hey... I can relate as my memory about 'stuff' sucks now at my point in life. [73 now] Just saying.)

I'm really glad you got the problem solved. That is what matters.

Wishing you the very best.!!!

Paul
 
Thanks PJ. It would be nice if the indicator light actually came that way. It's prewired and both wires coming out of it are black. I can put some white tape on it for sure though so I don't make that mistake again.


Cheers
 
So I swapped out my selector switch. Had a brew day last weekend and everything went well with the controller. Even though after a year of brewing with this system I have had no problems with the switch, I though I'd be extra safe and swap it out with a much beefier one. If I had to do it over again I would have done the DPDT switch and two element indicator lights, but since I already had everything configured for the 3PDT switch, I stayed with that design.

Thanks again to P-J for his wiring diagram, good advice, and willingness to help. Also thanks to P-J and other members for keeping everyone safe.
 
Old and new switch

old switch:new switch.jpg

Old switch

old switch.jpg

New switch

new switch.jpg

controller

controller starting boil.jpg

controller location

controller location.jpg
 
Coffee station when not brewing (beer that is)

storage.jpg


brewspot.jpg

set up on table

set up.jpg

Vent hung with strap on water pipe (it's very light and moveable this way)

vent stored.jpg

vent fan

vent fan.jpg
 
lent quick disconnect to use dryer vent

dryer qd.jpg

hooked up

vent hooked up.jpg

outside view of laundry room

setup ouitside.jpg

floor drain (it's a little close to the wall but convenient

floor drain.jpg
 
RO unit (put together from some filter housings I already had plus the new RO housing, fittings, and shutoff)

RO filter.jpg

RO bucket (float valve needs replacing) I use this for coffee too

RO bucket.jpg

Awesome stir plate thanks to Bigbeavk's generosity

WLP060 bigbvk stirplate.jpg

HLT/HERMS coil

HLT HERMS Recirc.jpg

Recirculating the mash or possibly vorlaufing, I can't remember

recirculating mash.jpg
 
Filling BK

filling boil.jpg

Hops ready to go (good tip using the cups from a user here that I can't remember now)

Hops ready to go.jpg

FWH. First time trying a nylon bag, just ordered a hop spider from Stainless Brewing.

FWH.jpg

Preboil boil gravity looks good

preboil gravity.jpg

Over sparged a bit

Preboil volume.jpg
 
Recirculating through chiller to sanitize
I need to work on my chilling set up

crazy recirculating chiller.jpg

Filling fermenters
chilling:filling.jpg

filling fermenters.jpg

Lost siphon! This was a bummer. It was either my hop stopper or a combination of that and a non-airtight dip tube. It had no trouble with water prior to this.

lost siphon!.jpg

Drained mash tun

drained tun.jpg
 
Cleaning last bits of mash after dumping outside

cleaning up.jpg

Mash tun all cleaned up

MLT clean.jpg

Overall a good brew day. 10 gallons of an American IPA is fermenting away.

I've ordered a 8 5/8" wide hop spider from Stainless Brewing and am looking at improving my chilling equipment/routine now.

:mug:
 
Ok. I hope you are ready for this as it becomes a little more complicated. BTW, I totally agree that an indicator light is needed to ensure some additional level of comfort with the system. The lamp will indicate if the switch is powering either element circuit.

The double pole - double throw - center off - switch needs to be changed out to a - Triple Pole - Double Throw - Center Off - switch in order to accommodate the indicator lamp.
Mouser PN 633-S33-RO (click it).
The indicator lamp shown is this one from
grainger.com PN 1XWL6 (click it). {BTW - the lamp is actually Amber in color. If you want a green one it's pn 1XWL4. Red is pn 1XWL1}


Now the new diagram (click on the image for a full scale drawing printable on tabloid paper 11" x 17")



Where else are you going to get a custom diagram.
ROTFLMAO.gif


I really enjoy the mind jumps I go through to come up with the plans.
I sure hope this helps you.

Best regards,
P-J


PJ,

First off thank you so much for all of your advice! This thread has been so helpful in figuring out the set-up I would like to build.

I am planning to use the diagram you made above for my set-up but was wondering if I could use a couple different switches than you listed.

For the 3 way switches, would I be able to substitute this switch instead of the one you listed:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=235

For the 2 way switches (for use with the PID and pumps), would these be safe to substitute as well:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=360

I'm not expert in this field so I appreciate any input :mug:
 
jsguitar,

Thanks for all the pics! The system looks great and I hope to have something similar soon! :rockin:
 
PJ,

First off thank you so much for all of your advice! This thread has been so helpful in figuring out the set-up I would like to build.

I am planning to use the diagram you made above for my set-up but was wondering if I could use a couple different switches than you listed.

For the 3 way switches, would I be able to substitute this switch instead of the one you listed:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=235

For the 2 way switches (for use with the PID and pumps), would these be safe to substitute as well:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=360

I'm not expert in this field so I appreciate any input :mug:

You can use the switches you stated - however, the 3 way switch from Auber Instruments comes with 2 N/O modules and you need a total of 6 N/O modules so you would need to also order 4 more N/O modules from them to make the circuit work properly.

P-J
 
Thanks for the quick response PJ!

So if I order 2 of these N/O switch blocks that will put me on the right track?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=257
You need to order a total of 4 additional N/O blocks. Each block is only one N/O switch. You need to have 2 in each position for a total of 6 individual blocks. The base unit ships with 2 blocks in place.

From your link "NO/NC Switch Block":
The price is for one switch block.
 
PJ,

First off thank you so much for all of your advice! This thread has been so helpful in figuring out the set-up I would like to build.

I am planning to use the diagram you made above for my set-up but was wondering if I could use a couple different switches than you listed.

For the 3 way switches, would I be able to substitute this switch instead of the one you listed:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=235

For the 2 way switches (for use with the PID and pumps), would these be safe to substitute as well:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=360

I'm not expert in this field so I appreciate any input :mug:

Hi,

When you say '3 way switches', do you mean the 3PDT element switch?

If so, you can't replace the switch with the one you linked to without the addition of contactors to handle the high amperage. The switch that I use now is rated for the full 30 amps at 240v so contactors aren't needed. If you read the last couple of pages carefully you'll see that I actually swapped out the original switch shown in the diagram for the one I have now.

Hope this helps.
 
PJ,

First off thank you so much for all of your advice! This thread has been so helpful in figuring out the set-up I would like to build.

I am planning to use the diagram you made above for my set-up but was wondering if I could use a couple different switches than you listed.

For the 3 way switches, would I be able to substitute this switch instead of the one you listed:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=235

For the 2 way switches (for use with the PID and pumps), would these be safe to substitute as well:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=360

I'm not expert in this field so I appreciate any input :mug:
I used the exact same switches for my build with two relays (only I bought mine direct from china on ebay for $3 a piece vs $6) but as others have stated to will need contactors or relays and the switch actually controls them to switch the real power load. you dont need the big bulky contactors... you can use regular 25A relays like the magnacraft ones on ebay (just search "220v 25a relay" or "220v 30a relay".
 
I used the exact same switches for my build with two relays (only I bought mine direct from china on ebay for $3 a piece vs $6) but as others have stated to will need contactors or relays and the switch actually controls them to switch the real power load. you dont need the big bulky contactors... you can use regular 25A relays like the magnacraft ones on ebay (just search "220v 25a relay" or "220v 30a relay".
Exactly correct. With the use of the Auber Instruments 3 pole center off switch, a relay or contactor is required. The original diagram uses a switch that is rated for 25A. The Auber switch is rated for 10A and cannot carry the load directly for the element.

Thanks for posting your reply. It is much appreciated.

P-J
 
I used the exact same switches for my build with two relays (only I bought mine direct from china on ebay for $3 a piece vs $6) but as others have stated to will need contactors or relays and the switch actually controls them to switch the real power load. you dont need the big bulky contactors... you can use regular 25A relays like the magnacraft ones on ebay (just search "220v 25a relay" or "220v 30a relay".

Thanks for all of the input from everyone, it's much appreciated!

But I mostly wanted a different style switch than the toggle in the diagram. Not a big deal, just a visual preference for me mostly, but it seems like a lot more work and cost to use the SPDT switch since I will need use contactors along with it. And I doubt it would be able to fit in the same enclosure that jsguitar used, which i really like the size of.

Augie,

But if I do decide to use the SPDT switch, I will need to put 2 contactors between the switch and the elements correct? I tried searching ebay for some contactors but I'm only seeing the big bulky ones. :drunk: Would you mind sending me a link to one that you used? Just trying to get an idea, and this is unfamiliar territory for me. :confused:

Thank you sirs!:mug:
 
Instead of using a 3PDT switch to acommodate the lamp, why not just use a 2PDT switch and use a 220 volt lamp in parallel with the elements, then you have 2 lamps and you can see which element is firing.
 
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