FAQ: Aluminum Pots for Boil Kettles?

I've never heard that- I have a ton of aluminum cookware. I've made spaghetti and fish in the same pan, and didn't notice any flavor carry over. If that happened, you'd need to have a pan for every type of food you make.

I do use my brewpot just for beer, now, though. In the beginning, I used my regular cookware and it was fine.

cheezydemon said:

With all of the aluminum foil used in cooking, and all of the aluminum cans used to hold beverages including beer, I am amazed that this is even an issue.

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Actually, aluminum cans are lined with another substance (plastic, I think, but I could be wrong there) because the carbonation would eat it away. That said, though, I see absolutely no reason not to use aluminum. Use whatever works.

I really hate to add to this thing, but I recently acquired a SS keggle and used it last week to make my oktoberfest. Next brew, I will actually time it, but it took significantly longer to boil, and then had a hard time keeping a rolling boil. I have one of those cheap turkey fryers off ebay for $35 or so and I really don't know the BTU, but guess it's around 55k based on other pictures of known burners. With my 7.5 gal Al pot, once the wort boils, I HAVE to turn the flame way way down and it maintains a rolling boil for the whole time. With my new keggle this weekend, I had to keep the burner full blast the whole boil to maintain a rolling boil.

That said I really enjoyed not having to worry about a boil over, and I'm going to brew with it again and actually take times to boils etc, but if it's as bad as last time I will be selling the thing and buying a bigger Al pot.

but I recently acquired a SS keggle and used it last week to make my oktoberfest. Next brew, I will actually time it, but it took significantly longer to boil, and then had a hard time keeping a rolling boil. I have one of those cheap turkey fryers off ebay for $35 or so and I really don't know the BTU, but guess it's around 55k based on other pictures of known burners. With my 7.5 gal Al pot

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If you took an oversized 15 gal aluminum pot that would also increase your boil time.. The stainless keggle has a lot more metal area to heat than your aluminum, and also a lot more head space and metal exposed to the surrounding air cooloing it, requiring more heat to keep the boil going. If you do a 10 gal batch in the Keggle, you will find you need a lower flame to keep the boil rolling than a 5 gal batch.

oddsock said:

I have heard that aluminum can retain flavors from cooking, then pass them on to your beer. So if i boil a pot of onions or cabbage I'll end up with oniony beer. Is this true? Should an aluminum brew pot be kept strictly for beer?

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The only way a Aluminum pot can carry over flavor is if it has not been cleaned properly, and/or it had a alkali substance cooked in it. Since most food is acidic alkalinity is usually not a problem. There is nothing wrong with using aluminum in brewing as long as you keep anything with a high pH away from the pot. Stainless is also damaged by high pH.

Bah I've eaten tons of green eggs when I was in the Army. It was because the containers used to keep the eggs warm while bringing them out to the field was lined with aluminum. And probably because the KP staff kept having us scrub off the protective dark layer.

I'm probably going to try the aluminum pot just because of the price difference. If it turns my beer green then I'll just drink them with a mouse or in a train or in a box or with a fox…

So question. Once the passive oxide layer forms the wort will not strip it away? I did my first brew with my turkey frier without first baking or boiling to get the oxide and after just spraying it clean it still looks pretty shiny.

I've done three brews so far (IPA, Brown, Hefeweizen) with my 30quart aluminum kettle and have had no off flavours at all. The only issue I have with it is that it tends to ding a lot easier than stainless, though that doesn't affect my brewing at all.

I've been brewing in Alum. for years, beers taste great, never had a problem

does anyone have any problems using an aluminum pot with a copper IC?

Copper wire and aluminum wire do nasty things when put together. So does anyone notice oxidation on their chiller where it touches the aluminum pot?

B

nope, I'm sure there is a little bit of reaction going on, I mean acidic wort and Al + Cu is going to make a battery of sorts, but I've never had a problem.

Yeah, my IC gets oxidized but I'm not so sure it is from touching the aluminum pot. They oxidize no matter what, you just have to keep them clean.

I use a copper dip tube into my aluminum kettle which acts as a syphon for my CFC, I've not had any troubles at all. I'm sure there's some action going on but not enough to worry about.

FlyGuy said:

Cons:
- oxidizes easily, meaning that oxygen-based cleaners (e.g., Oxyclean, One-step) cannot be used (Note: caustic or other similar clean-in-place solutions can definitely not be used, which is why the brewing industry generally does not use aluminum.)

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So does this mean starsan cannot be used? Not really sure what CIP solutions are??

Kugster said:

So does this mean starsan cannot be used? Not really sure what CIP solutions are??

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Star-san is fine. Just avoid the oxygenated cleaners or caustic clean-in-place (CIP) cleaners.

what do u mean about oxidize layer in the aluminum kettle? please explain this, i didn't understand this very much, do u need to make a layer of some sort, and does it stay there for ever? or do u need to do it over and over, or is it a bad thing if the layer occurs? sorry for the noob questions, but i'm trying my hardest to understand. thanks in advance

here's what it looks like after boiling water in a aluminum pot for a hour to build a layer ...its not rust.

ok thanks for showing me what it looks like. appreciate it.

Steel-Reserve said:

what do u mean about oxidize layer in the aluminum kettle? please explain this, i didn't understand this very much, do u need to make a layer of some sort, and does it stay there for ever? or do u need to do it over and over, or is it a bad thing if the layer occurs? sorry for the noob questions, but i'm trying my hardest to understand. thanks in advance

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That layer of oxidation is desirable because it is essentially non-reactive, and forms a protective layer between your wort and the aluminum wall of the kettle. It is relatively difficult to remove, once you have built it up (a good thing), although it is possible to scrub it off if you try. Therefore, it is always recommended that you clean your pot with a mild detergent (if any) using a soft cloth or sponge. You want to preserve that passive oxide layer -- it is a GOOD thing.

I'm a noob, but I'm curious about what is the purpose of putting a valve at the base of the boiling kettle? Does this just make it easier to empty into a fermenting bucket or carboy?

Bigpete9000 said:

here's what it looks like after boiling water in a aluminum pot for a hour to build a layer ...its not rust.

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well not rust in the sense that isn't not ferric oxide, but yes it is aluminum oxide.

chrishart7 said:

I'm a noob, but I'm curious about what is the purpose of putting a valve at the base of the boiling kettle? Does this just make it easier to empty into a fermenting bucket or carboy?

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yes that's exactly it.

Hey guys. Check this site out.

Home - Pimp My Kettle

and check out the kettles on Ebay.

eBay Seller: fantasticpimpmykettle: Art from Dealers Resellers, Art items on eBay.com

Aluminum has such a stigma associated with it that it is hard to overcome. I have a friend that has been brewing since the early 90's and is set on the fact that aluminum is extremely bad for your health that he will never consider using it in brewing and never drink any homebrew that was made with it.

I know that the facts on aluminum have been challenged and stated but there are those people that will never trust what is learned to be true. I strictly use SS and have considered using aluminum since it is so inexpensive in comparison, but have not bitten the bullet. I am in the process of building a sculpture and have two keggles (needing some welding for ports) that I plan to use. I like the fact that I can buy a 60qt AL pot for cheap and never have to worry about boil amt, but have no idea how to weld so either way I will need to pay for welding and since I already have those keggles I mines as well go with them.

How would you get someone who is set in their ways to trust the reports written on AL? It is impossible to change the strips on a tiger!

- WW

Education eliminates ignorance, but it does not quell bull headed pride. S.

slnies said:

Education eliminates ignorance, but it does not quell bull headed pride. S.

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slnies, this above reply made all this thread reading worth the time it took, thanks.

The reasons I prefer ss vs aluminum is ss being less heat conductive and should be better at reducing the mash temperature loss as fast as a aluminum MLT.
On boil kettles a ss keg with its bottom thickness of the same as a aluminum kettle the ss must have a slight advantage at reducing a chance of scorching provided the same the same BTU heating is applied again due to the lower conductivity of ss vs alumimum. Call me cheap, HLT, MLT and boil kettles will all start out as ss 15.5 gallon kegs. JMO's and ideas.

Bigpete9000 said:

here's what it looks like after boiling water in a aluminum pot for a hour to build a layer ...its not rust.

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OK, I'm really confused. I have a pile of aluminum pots at work that I'm going to be using for brewing (also buying a 40 quart for dedicated use and insertion of valve) and none of the pots have that brown look to them. They've been used for years and all look like plain old aluminum pots. I even cleaned one really good (a 32 quart pot) and let water boil all afternoon and it looks the same now as it did when I started. These have all had acidic stuff in them like tomato bases.

BTW, is a 40 quart pot plenty good enough to do full boil batches for 5 gallons? I want to go big enough but not so big that I price myself out of one and not so big that I can't get it on the stove as I don't have a dedicated turkey fryer burner yet.

MikeinCtown,
Do your pots all look grey? Or are they bright? I will go out on a limb and guess that they are grey or metalic but not quit shinny. If this is the case then your pots are just fine. S.

MikeInCtown said:

BTW, is a 40 quart pot plenty good enough to do full boil batches for 5 gallons? I want to go big enough but not so big that I price myself out of one and not so big that I can't get it on the stove as I don't have a dedicated turkey fryer burner yet.

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That's a pretty big kettle for a stove top, same size as mine. It works fine for 5 gallon batches, I can boil 8 gallons without too much boilover worry, but you do have to keep an eye out. I would not be so sure that a stove could get something like that up to a rolling boil.

It's a big commercial stove. I had no problem bringing 6 gallons of tap water to a boil in less than an hour when I tested with a large pot last time. Up until I used that aluminum pot, I was splitting my full boil batch between two small, cheap, stainless 20 quart pots.

MikeInCtown said:

OK, I'm really confused. I have a pile of aluminum pots at work that I'm going to be using for brewing (also buying a 40 quart for dedicated use and insertion of valve) and none of the pots have that brown look to them. They've been used for years and all look like plain old aluminum pots. I even cleaned one really good (a 32 quart pot) and let water boil all afternoon and it looks the same now as it did when I started. These have all had acidic stuff in them like tomato bases.

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If they are that well used, then the oxide layer is already well developed on your pots. No need to boil water in them before brewing -- that only applies to new pots that have never been used before.

So I brewed yesterday using my new 30 quart aluminum pot and was wondering what effect the beer would have if a good oxide layer hadn't been developed? I put my pot in the oven at 350F for 15 minutes or so, but it didn't look any different coming out. When I was done brewing, I noticed the darker look to it inside where the wort was boiling. That darker part must be the oxide layer. Since this wasn't there after the oven, I assume it didn't build up an oxide layer. What's the worst that's going to happen to my brew?

Brett3rThanU said:

So I brewed yesterday using my new 30 quart aluminum pot and was wondering what effect the beer would have if a good oxide layer hadn't been developed? I put my pot in the oven at 350F for 15 minutes or so, but it didn't look any different coming out. When I was done brewing, I noticed the darker look to it inside where the wort was boiling. That darker part must be the oxide layer. Since this wasn't there after the oven, I assume it didn't build up an oxide layer. What's the worst that's going to happen to my brew?

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You MAY end up with a slight metalic flavor, but that probably won't happen. Yeasts tends to have an affinity for metals, so any metals in solution in the wort will probably be used up as yeast nutrient. It would take quite a bit to show through in the final product. At least now you have the oxide layer built up so you don't need to worry next time.

'There is more aluminum in a common antacid tablet than would be present in a batch of beer made in an aluminum pot.'

That's directly from How to Brew by John Palmer.

If you haven't heard it yet, you gotta checkout the brewing networks podcast on Metals.

The Brewing Network.com - Brew Strong: Brew Strong: 09-29-08 Metals that Affect Your Beer

It also might be a good idea for the mods to put this link in the original post of this thread.

I have brewed 3 4 batches of beer in an aluminum turkey fryer pot. I have had no problems with off taste or problems other than boil overs, which were minimal. Good to have a spray bottle on hand to spray the foam or it will foam over.

I'm thinking of going with aluminum for my HLT but Im a bit worried about the fact that I'd most likely have way more stuff on this pot than any others. (Sightglass and thermometer on top of ball valve) and I haven't any experience with drilling/welding/weldless fittings on aluminum. Any input on this? It would be easier for me to go weldless, just so you know...

Just a little question concerning aluminum. I am expandind to all grain, and I have read that using aluminum pots will taint the flavors of the brew. If I were to buy a couple turkey fryers to heat my strike and sparge water, would it have the same affect. Those pots are aluminum and it seems a rather inexpensive alternative.

Thank
Bitter

Using aluminum is fine a long as it is properly prepared before you brew in it.It needs an oxidation layer built up to seal the pores in it before you brew.To do it clean it with your preferred brew wash then boil water in it for about an hour at a higher liquid level than you intend to brew with it at.You may want to drain and boil once more just to be safe.This will oxidize the pot (dark layer)and seal it.After this don't use acid based cleaners on it or you will remove the oxidation layer.I've been brewing in my alum. turkey friar pot for awhile now and my beer has no off flavors from it.I have also heard of baking your pot in the oven to oxidize it.Hope this eases your mind.Most people who say not to ever use alum. haven't properly researched it.

Well, I can see no harm in trying the weldless stuff first, the aluminum will work a lot easier than SS so all you need to drill holes is a hole saw and an arbor. If the weldless doesn't work out, take it to a welder and have the fittings TIG'ed in. My other suggestion would be to get all of your fittings for the weldless application in aluminum, this way if you need to weld you do not have to buy more fittings, the other plus, is no galvanic reaction due to electrolysis. S.

TerapinChef said:

I'm thinking of going with aluminum for my HLT but Im a bit worried about the fact that I'd most likely have way more stuff on this pot than any others. (Sightglass and thermometer on top of ball valve) and I haven't any experience with drilling/welding/weldless fittings on aluminum. Any input on this? It would be easier for me to go weldless, just so you know...

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NOT that I'm a member of the search police but there is a pretty active thread in the Beginner forum right now.