Fly sparge vs. Batch?

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dp69_2001

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I'm doing a partial in a couple weeks. I still need to build an MLT. What is the differences between batch and fly sparging? I can't seem to figure it out. Which is easier/cheaper? I bought some wheat under the impression that I could simply steep it prior to adding my hops and extract and now I'm confusing myself trying to figure this all out. I guess I can look on the bright side. I'll be one step closer to all grain.
 
Ive done about 60 batch sparges, but did my first fly sparge yesterday. I must say I really like fly sparging much more. It's just easier.

Efficiency was a bit better, and the grain bed only had to be set once. And I didnt have to lift 3-4 gallons of 180* sparge water up to the kettle.
 
Batch sparge is easier IMHO for beginners.

http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter17.html

The continuous sparge is the same as fly sparge. Do a search on homebrewtalk and you will find plenty of threads to help.

Basically fly sparge is when you rinse the grains continuosly by adding the same amount of water to the tun as your draining. Batch sparge is when you just dump the whole tun and then add more water, then drain that and repeat until your done.
 
This question comes up fairly often, and it's the subject of much debate. A forum search will likely yield more results than you care to read through. It boils down to this:

Batch sparging is faster, requires less equipment, and is generally considered easier. It MAY result in slightly lower efficiency, but the difference is rather slight.

Fly sparging requires a bit more equipment (potentially a pump, if you don't have a tiered setup), takes more time, requires more attention, and is generally considered somewhat difficult in comparison. Fly sparging is a more traditional brew method and can be done with great success, but it can definitely be a daunting task for a beginner.
 
Fly sparging requires suitable equipment. A cylindrical MLT with false bottom, and sparge arm is probably optimum, but many inventive forum members get good results with other equipment. It also requires more attention to detail, and usually takes longer, but in return, you may get slightly higher efficiency.
Batch sparging is faster, slightly easier, and a lot cheaper to build suitable equipment. The only real disadvantage to batch sparging that I can see is that you require more space in the MLT to hold the sparge water. I usually fly sparge because my MLT is too small to batch sparge the brews I like to make, but if I had a bigger MLT, I would probably switch to batch.

-a.
 
Okay So if I were to batch sparge the 5 lbs of wheat. And build a laughter tun out of a 5 gallon cooler. I would just fill it wait for 60 minutes recirculate for a minute and then drain into my brewpot and continue the batch as normal?
 
There is a bit more to it than that, but only a little bit.
Before you start sparging, you need to mash. To do this, you need to mix the milled grain with a small amount of water (1 - 2 qts water per lb grain). After mixing, you want the temperature to be about 154. There are lots of on-line calculators (google mash temp calculator, or search this forum for links). For the first time, I would recommend using 1 qt water per lb, and have a supply of hot (freshly boiled) and cold water to adjust the temp if required. This will thin out the mash a bit. When you have the temperature right, you leave it for 60 minutes, and then sparge.
The sparge consists of adding about 2 qts 175 - 180F water per lb grain, stirring well, recirculating a couple qts wort (until the wort does not contain any grain particles), and then draining the rest of the wort into the brewpot and continue as normal.
If you are thinking of goings AG in the future, you may want to consider a 10g cooler. I fly sparge because I have a 5g cooler.

-a.
 
oh. Okay! the site bobby M referred me to is a great resource. His process is kinda how I was thinking. But, then I started reading and looking at everyone elses set up and I got very confused. Okay so. If I mashed the 5lbs in 2 gallons. and then sparged with 3 gallons 1.5 gallons at a time. This is a pretty efficient and easy procedure? What temperature water is good for something like this? after lautering would I just continue with the boil as planned?
 
If I have a 12 gallon cooler now. Could I use it for my 5 gallon batch? I thought that would leave it too thin? Wouldn't sparging with that hot of water release tannins? I'm confused again.
 
I just wanted to say that the SueBob article was really helpful for me, I was thinking about starting Partial Mash, but I may just go to AG, very very clear and informative.

-thanks
 
oh. Okay! the site bobby M referred me to is a great resource. His process is kinda how I was thinking. But, then I started reading and looking at everyone elses set up and I got very confused. Okay so. If I mashed the 5lbs in 2 gallons. and then sparged with 3 gallons 1.5 gallons at a time. This is a pretty efficient and easy procedure? What temperature water is good for something like this? after lautering would I just continue with the boil as planned?

You dont HAVE to use the half and half method when sparging (1.5lbs/1.5lbs). If you can lift 3 lbs of water, do it. From what I have read and learned (trust me, its been a ton, I have been in your same shoes), shoot for about 152 for the mash, and 170 for the sparge. A good rule of thumb is to heat your water to about 10-11 degrees F higher than those temps (163 to hit 152 Mash, 180 or so to hit 170 Sparge). There are calculators if you want to get exact. However, the key to doing this is to relax and dont worry so much. :mug:
 
With batch sparging, the size of the cooler really doesn't matter too much. It's the heat of the water and the stirring that dissolves the sugars.
If you are worried about tannin extraction, have some cold water ready to bring the temperature down a bit. It will take quite a bit of heat to bring the grain up to sparge temps (170F), and the cooler will absorb quite a bit more. Tannin extraction requires time, heat, and a high pH, none of which would be applicable to a batch sparge.

-a.
 
Oh, thank you for clarifying that. So I could use my 12 gallon cooler. Leaving the option open to do larger batches if I so choose. That saved my day. I was sitting here thinking about the cost of another cooler and all that nonsense. So really all I need is some Braided SS, a valve, some washers, and some fittings. I swear I say it every day but the people on this forum are awesome. They make my life complete.
 
I would also recommend going with at least 10 gallons for a mash tun as well. You may not need it this go round, but sooner or later, you'll be mashing something that goes above 5 gallons. I'm brewing my 4th all grain right now......and my 3rd one was a Russian Imperial Stout: fly sparging, I still went right up to 10 gallons for a 5 gallon batch. So if you have a 12 gallon one, that should do you.

As a beginer, I can say that if you follow a guidebook for fly sparging, it's really not hard. The main advantage of batch sparging is cost: you don't need an extra lauter tun for holding sparge water. Even though I didn't have enough sparge water reserved during my first AG, my effeciency was still near 80 percent (and I did a gutsy move of using hot sink water for my remaining sparge). As long as your sparge water is hot enough, I'm certain that you can get similar effeciency for either batch or fly. I just like the idea of fly sparging better for my own methods....YMMV. I think the best way to think of grain brewing is treating it like coffee. Some coffe people like percolators (which is like fly sparging), while others like french presses (which are like batch sparges). In the end, they'll both give you good coffee.

I think the primary reasons why I started off with good effeciencies were grains that I personally milled (and made sure that the husks were present with flour bits as well). I also followed step infusion recipes: starting off with a protein rest first (ie 132 degree for 30 mins, add boiling water to get 155 degree mash for 30 mins, then add boiling water to get 167 for 10 mins....then sparge). When you start doing step, though, that does start adding to your mash volumes. I like to tinker, while other people like to keep things more simple. It looks like the simplest thing for you to try is a batch sparge with a mash at 153 degrees for 60 mins. This is the main calculator I use for figuring out my strike temperatures:

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
 
Do you think that I'm going to have any problems with a stuck sparge? I have 5 lbs of wheat. I'm going to use a braided stainless steel hose. I've read the people have had a lot of success using them.
 
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