Welding is not so hard

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nathan

nathan

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Well, I decided to build my own rig and have been gathering parts. This weekend I borrowed a neighbor's welder and a friend of mine who knows how to weld came over and we went to town on the pile of angle iron I bought.

I hadn't realized how simple welding with the little buzz-box type welder would be. Really we spent 90% of the time cutting, grinding, and cleaning the pieces to prep them for welding, then all of 8 or 10 seconds on the welds. :)

We got the basic frame together, and I'm going to try and get most of the welding done in the next few days before I head out on vacation.

I really do understand why those metal brew systems cost so much, though. Welding (well, the prepping before the welding) is a LOT of work. By the end of July or August I should be brewing something on this, though, even if it's not totally complete.
 
soon! Actually, it might be after my trip. I really want to get the welding done on the metal part (I may add a wooden base for the casters and to raise it up, it's built to handle the largest kettles now, so it's quite squat and long). It's my neighbors welder, so I want it back in his hands when I pull out of town Thursday so he doesn't get caught without it during my vacation.

I'll ask SWMBO'd to get some action shots!
 
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The stand will get a wooden base frame and casters. I built it very low and squat so it could handle the very largest kettles I could foresee ever possibly using. It's six feet long for the same reason.

I'm going to order some burners this month, and hopefully a keg or keggle, and some kettles so I can start getting the final support measurements ready.
 
Lookin pretty good, what kind of welding did you use? Flux core or mig? How did it turn out? I just bought a POS flux core welder to put my frame together, I just hope it last for the whole project.
 
When you said "buzz box" I assumed you meant a stick welder and thought you must be nuts saying it's not hard. It took me a better part of a day to get used to striking the arc and laying a mediocre bead and I like to think I'm pretty handy. I hear the wire feed mig is much easier to get the hang of. I'd like to get one as soon as I upgrade my electrical service.

I'd skip the wood, just weld the casters right to the frame. If you want to get fancy, scrap yards always have some stainless sheet of some kind. I think they get a lot of restaurant kitchen prep tables when old joints get gutted.
 
it's one of those lincoln electric wire-feeds, sells for around $270 I think. I'm not a welder and knew nothing about it prior to this weekend, "buzzbox" is what my welding friends call it. It plugs into standard household outlets and feeds .035" wire (flux core I think) and is pretty simple to use. It DID take a lot of practice to get the hang of, and I did use some scrap for, um, some of that practice. The rest is in the less visible welds. :)

I really do need to grind on it a while (with my new grinder, I may have to buy one of those welders soon, too). THen paint it...
 
Congrats. Yeah, welding is a skill you can acquire with a little practice, but learning how to weld really well takes a lot of serious work and training. I'd be embarrassed for any pro to take a look at my welds, but at least I know my stand won't fall apart. :) I'm not quite up to welding pipelines or submarines yet. Or even trailers. :D
 
yeah, some of mine are shudderingly ugly welds, but at least the metal is sturdy. My habit of over-engineering also means this stand could double as a dolly to move cars on. :rockin:
 
wire feed welding is fairly simple to get the hang of. That appears to be a flux core welder as I don't see a shield gas cylinder on the welder. For anyone thinking of getting a wire feed welder make sure that it is already set up by the manufacturer to use shield gas. It may come without it and setup with flux core but you can get a much stronger and cleaner weld with the use of shield gas as an upgrade. remember, the wire is nothing more than a filler. the arc melts the parent metals together and the wire fills in small voids. That is a fine looking stand. Pretty soon you are going to start welding everything.
 
oh man I've been itching to weld more things up. I scored some scrap metal, including some 4'x8' sheets of 16 or 18 gauge sheet metal (I think it's steel, since it has some rust on one side).

I'm already drawing up plans for a tippy-dump, but one that I can gently lift the kettle with, then rotate out behind the stand so it is in the clear, then lift the bottom so it tilts and I can scoop it out conveniently, then scrub and hose and return. :)

Do you know if they make these cheap $270 welders with a connection for gas, or is there a model from HomeDepot.com or Lowes.com (or another website) that is comparably priced that you would recommend?
 
Lincoln is a very accepted name in the trade. I havent used the little wire feeds, I have a 5'X2'x3' monster at work that I use. but I would suggest looking at the back of the machine. There will either be a gas hose or fitting on the back if it can be used with gas. it should also tell you right on the box that it's set up for fluxcore but can be used with gas. couple points. If you switch to gas you must also switch the wire to solid wire. Also you have to change the settings inside the machine(very easy to do and is in the instructions). some places my try to sell you exotic gas to weld with. Common CO2 is what we use for all but the special applications. after all its just keeping o2 away from the molten metal. dont try to use it in windy situations, the wind blow the sheild gas away from the weld giving you **** results. same goes for fluxcore. I would stay away from the small welders at harbor freight. since I dont have a welder at home from time to time I have to borrow my neighbors HF welder. I start cussing when the thermal breaker pops all the time which means I have to drink a beer to give time for me and the welder to cool down. What I would buy from harbor freight and I use it on a daily basis is the $50 auto dark helmet. AD helmets should really be standard equipment for any arc application. they reduce the chance of arc burn to your retinas. Always wear longsleeves when arcing. some of the worst sun burns I have ever had came from an arc not the sun. hope this helps.
 
my neighbor loaned me the AD shield, and I loved it. He also loaned me a #10 to compare. Yeah, I got some tan on my arms from the welding. :) I had leather gloves on and a t-shirt (see photo).

I did heat the Lincoln up enough to have it shut off and show me the temp warning light, so I know what you mean, but since I wasn't under a deadline, and it was after doing maybe 8 or 9 welds of 2-3 inches long each, in rapid order, I think it was okay.

If it's CO2, well then... I have that! It'll be an excuse to get a mega-bottle to charge smaller bottles with! I had a box fan blowing over the area while I worked, I'll try welding without it next.

I'll check next time I'm at the depot to see what kind of gas option ones they might have.
 
hey i got a Strait 6 gaspower Lincoln pipeliner and a 2 cilinder diesle miller wilder the other day, both where broken, but i have fixed them both, the lincoln had bad wireing and the miller needed new glow plugs, but anyway thay both are working and got some basic rods and welded together some scrap and then patched a hole on my brushhog.

but my queston is can i weld stainless with my arc welders ? i heard i could but that the rods are really costly, so would it be better to find and barrow a mig or just use mine.
i will tell you one thing i think thay both must have 100% duty cycles or damn near becase i burn about 15 sticks on each one in rapid fire and thay just kept on trucking
 
those are heavy duty welders meant for professional jobsite work. they had better not kick off. I do equipment and Caterpillar repair and have repaired many of those type welders the main weakness in them is the breaker panel mainly because they are designed for outside welding and get rained on from time to time. keep them dry and they should last a long time. If they were used for structural iron before you got them you may want to check the tail bearing on the generating rotor itself. it has a pinch band around the bearing and when it goes the brushes will cut grooves in the commutator wiping out a two thousand dollar part.

I would go with wirefeed for stainless due to the shielding gas. proper arc welds need to sheilded from O2 regardless of the material. the coating on arc rods is sufficent for most steel application but not really for stainless. I have never welded stainless, but have heard that it is its own animal and has different techniques required.
 
On your first post about a "buzz-box" that was given to the early years ago AC welders. Many were just plug in tap offs to many different X-former windings for your different heat ranges ending up too hot or too cold heat ranges. Then they got the idea to have a moveable iron slug that can be cranked or levered in and out of the transformer field for a finer heat range control but still a AC "buzz-box" unit like Dayton and Sears sold. You should use the proper rod as there are different stick rods for these AC and DC powered stick welders.
Then they came along with Mig welders I recall app back around 1967 with the big yellow green Linde units for industrial use. Much later for the ranch and homeowner those 90 amp 120 volt units, these have DC output, and yes you can get away with Co2 gas but with less splatter and a smoother weld bead using C25 gas mix.
All those small home use 120 volt units 90-100 amp max are rated 20% duty cycle vs 60% to 100% light to heavy industrial units, it's easy to forget your welding time having fun causing overtemp shutdowns. Stay away from those hardware store, HomeDepot / Northern tool made in China units unless it's a Lincoln, Hobart or Miller by name Miller now owns Hobart. Go with a 230 volt unit best to have the power when needed. With Tig you have better control and a better looking weld than Mig especially on thin gauge like stainless corny kegs. I didn't know welding was so easy as you stated, took some time to get my welding certification to work structural at GM and water district pump stations I worked on. I must still be a welding dummy welding over the last 34 years and still have some bad days.
I quit changing brands and models after 11 total ending up with unit 12 and 13. A 350 Miller Synchrowave Tig (fully loaded not the simple 350 units with less controls that they sell these days) and a Mig Millermatic 251 w/30A spoolgun. Hobby home units that paid for themselves. Gas bottles buy the biggest you can and owner owned vs those small lease units needing many refills that will cost you more in the long run. Argon and C25 are 280 cu/ft bottles. Yes stainless is a different animal to learn to Tig properly. Even being away from it about a year due to the back injuries I have become rusty at Tig big time. Take some classes to learn properly, bad learned habits are hard to break.
Check the www.Millerwelds.com forum, they have a Miller tech plus many people who weld and fab for a living on question and answer forum. Many can weld better than a machine, check under the "Ask Andy" section. Check into www.cyberweld.com they have some great prices for their equipment vs going directly to a Miller or Lincoln supply and they sell the same items.
Best of luck and practice all you can.
 
I have a Hobart MIG. That along with a free chest freezer from my BIL, is what got me into kegging. I just stole the 20# CO2 tank from the welder :/
 
I was looking for a cheap MIG welder last year and ended up getting a Clarke 130EN. I have been happy with it so far, but I only use it occasionally. It runs off a 110V outlet which was a requirement since I don't have 220 service in my garage. As others have said, be sure to get the gas capable model.

I bought mine from weldingdepot.com. I live close enough that the shipping was cheap, but far enough that I didn't have to pay tax. I've also seen these welders at Menards. Not sure if you can fit it into one of their 10% off bags or not.
 
That tax can add up enough to purchase other needed welder items you did good purchasing across state lines.
Just for giggles I added up Miller's new MSP prices last night as they have gone up, my equipment hit the $10K mark this before adding California's 8.75% sales tax another chunk of change. 8-02 was the last purchase the 251 with spoolgun, 350 Synchro was back in 11-91. Cooler made from a SS Procon pump, AC condenser with fan and a plastic lab tank. After adding stinger leads, gas and cooling fittings, hoses and vertical gas flows not them restrictor type, regulators and bottles i'm in the hole app $360 total. Did company side job welding on weekends at home that paid for the Tig. On another job we scraped tons of copper from one job site for another company back in 02 during the work day, my share of the copper money split went to the purchase of my Mig welder and a family trip to Hawaii. I always had a large copper stash fund for years. I could not replace what I have today at these new prices besides being disabled fighting SSD yet to come in.
 
Don't let some of these guys fool ya. If you go with a gas set up, you do not have to change your wire. Flux core lays down even nicer with gas. I have welded for the Navy for years on heavy equipment, thin car body, and steel structure. The best advice would be to talk to a salesman at a reputable welding supply shop. They often times have more knowledge with the different types of wire, filler rod, and welding electrodes then do many welders. Just remember that is their job. That said, they will open your mind to all kinds of other possibilities to maximize your welding experience for your buck. Use them as a resource and if they steer you wrong let them know and often times they will make it right if it is with in their power. Welding should be fun, so enjoy it.
 
I'm glad a few pro welders finally came into this thread, I weld on a daily basis but it is not my career. slnies made a valuable point concerning weld shop sales reps. they are the first to know about new stuff and deal with so many different types of welding they know what works best. I've never even thought about using gas with fluxcore, but I can see the possibilities for it producing a cleaner weld.
I would compare prices between CO2 and C25. the splatter left by CO2 is minimal and can easily be scaled or chipped off of mild steel. When I go to learn stainless I definitely plan on taking the classes offered by the community college. They already have the equipment, can usually get you set for certification and don't mind if you bring in your own projects. By the end of the class you could have everything you need welded up for the price of the lab fee and be certified as well.
Some of the best welds I have ever seen were made by some sub squid buddies of mine. They can weld around corners using a mirror!!
 
I have a Century branded wire feed 110 volt unit I bought from Northern 10 years ago and it has more than payed for itself many times over. It is gas capable, but I only use flux cored wire. Very easy to use.
 
clayton_ross said:
hey i got a Strait 6 gaspower Lincoln pipeliner and a 2 cilinder diesle miller wilder the other day, both where broken, but i have fixed them both, the lincoln had bad wireing and the miller needed new glow plugs, but anyway thay both are working and got some basic rods and welded together some scrap and then patched a hole on my brushhog.

but my queston is can i weld stainless with my arc welders ? i heard i could but that the rods are really costly, so would it be better to find and barrow a mig or just use mine.
i will tell you one thing i think thay both must have 100% duty cycles or damn near becase i burn about 15 sticks on each one in rapid fire and thay just kept on trucking
Click to expand...

Yup, they make a stainless rod for arc. It is a nice product and makes a nice weld. The electrode will be a L-308 with another number behind it to denote the type of flux it uses. You will want to get a 1/16" sized rod and set your machine down to 40 or so amps. I set up for just barely being able to strike an arc. You will then want to angle the electrode at about 30 degrees in respect to the keg. This will put more heat into the heavier fitting and still give you good penetration on the keg. You have to be careful and you have to move nice and even and quick. Not fast mind you, just quick. Once you do a couple you will have the feel for it. The rod is not all that expensive. I think I paid $12.00 for 6 LB's. That is enough for about 15 kegs with 5 fittings each. Have fun. S.
 
evanmars said:
I have a Hobart MIG. That along with a free chest freezer from my BIL, is what got me into kegging. I just stole the 20# CO2 tank from the welder :/[/QUOT

I believe welder number 5 was the Hobart Beta 250 with a spoolgun, sold it for the full 100% 13 months later for what I paid for it. Threw in a custom made cover as it would pass as brand new. To this day I wax and cover my Millers.
I hate welding with fluxcore, told the shop to jam it years ago and get me solid wire and a gas bottle. Too much of a mess besides breathing it, think about your health years later. BTW JMO's about fluxcore use what makes you or the wallet happy.

To be different try stick welding with aluminum rod, not my favorite nor was it for the Port Of Oakland street sign arms.
Shop ended up renting a big generator to feed the Beta 250 to get the bid job done. The best part I came in way under in hours the shop made big money and I wrote off my machine as a work tool.
Click to expand...
 
Bobby_M said:
When you said "buzz box" I assumed you meant a stick welder and thought you must be nuts saying it's not hard. It took me a better part of a day to get used to striking the arc and laying a mediocre bead and I like to think I'm pretty handy. I hear the wire feed mig is much easier to get the hang of. I'd like to get one as soon as I upgrade my electrical service.

I'd skip the wood, just weld the casters right to the frame. If you want to get fancy, scrap yards always have some stainless sheet of some kind. I think they get a lot of restaurant kitchen prep tables when old joints get gutted.
Click to expand...

Bobby; I would rather weld a plate in the corners for full support of the caster and 4 bolt bolt the casters in place, just thinking ahead
how easy it would be to unbolt vs grind out a weld if a caster needed replacing.
 
beerthirty said:
I'm glad a few pro welders finally came into this thread, I weld on a daily basis but it is not my career. slnies made a valuable point concerning weld shop sales reps. they are the first to know about new stuff and deal with so many different types of welding they know what works best. I've never even thought about using gas with fluxcore, but I can see the possibilities for it producing a cleaner weld.
I would compare prices between CO2 and C25. the splatter left by CO2 is minimal and can easily be scaled or chipped off of mild steel. When I go to learn stainless I definitely plan on taking the classes offered by the community college. They already have the equipment, can usually get you set for certification and don't mind if you bring in your own projects. By the end of the class you could have everything you need welded up for the price of the lab fee and be certified as well.
Some of the best welds I have ever seen were made by some sub squid buddies of mine. They can weld around corners using a mirror!!
Click to expand...

I'm not a pro welder just someone years ago that expanded my value to the union electrical trade contractors vs busting butt as just a wire puller. Certification allowed me to weld ship to shore power monuments for the navy in my home town for the Alameda Naval Air Stations aircraft carrier hookups. Base is closed down now since 97.

I went thru 3 different Miller welding suppliers before I got all my questions answered not alone the right price for the units. Shop around you can save a lot of money. Example local Miller shop wanted $3,428 before taxes for the Mig machine I wanted and how it was loaded, traveled 38 miles (S.F. bay area) to another Miller shop number 3 and walked out the door at $2,506 tax included. Came back next weekend and got $90 off on a Speedglas 9000X a 9-13 shade AD hood. The pits when used outdoors unless under an umbrella.
Bottom line shop smart and save your extra money for brewing equipment.
 
beerthirty said:
I'm glad a few pro welders finally came into this thread, I weld on a daily basis but it is not my career. slnies made a valuable point concerning weld shop sales reps. they are the first to know about new stuff and deal with so many different types of welding they know what works best. I've never even thought about using gas with fluxcore, but I can see the possibilities for it producing a cleaner weld.
I would compare prices between CO2 and C25. the splatter left by CO2 is minimal and can easily be scaled or chipped off of mild steel. When I go to learn stainless I definitely plan on taking the classes offered by the community college. They already have the equipment, can usually get you set for certification and don't mind if you bring in your own projects. By the end of the class you could have everything you need welded up for the price of the lab fee and be certified as well.
Some of the best welds I have ever seen were made by some sub squid buddies of mine. They can weld around corners using a mirror!!
Click to expand...

I'm not a pro welder just someone years ago that expanded my value to the union electrical trade contractors vs busting butt as just a wire puller. Certification allowed me to weld ship to shore power monuments for the navy in my home town for the Alameda Naval Air Stations aircraft carrier power hookups.

I went thru 3 different Miller welding suppliers before I got my questions answered not alone the right price for the units. Shop around you can save a lot of money. Example local Miller shop wanted $3,428 before taxes for the Mig machine I wanted and how it was loaded, traveled 38 miles (S.F. bay area) to another Miller shop and walked out the door at $2,506 tax included. Came back next weekend and got $90 off on a Speedglas 9000X a 9-13 shade AD hood. The pits when used outdoors unless under an umbrella.
Bottom line shop smart and save your extra money for brewing equipment.
 
slnies said:
Yup, they make a stainless rod for arc. It is a nice product and makes a nice weld. The electrode will be a L-308 with another number behind it to denote the type of flux it uses. You will want to get a 1/16" sized rod and set your machine down to 40 or so amps. I set up for just barely being able to strike an arc. You will then want to angle the electrode at about 30 degrees in respect to the keg. This will put more heat into the heavier fitting and still give you good penetration on the keg. You have to be careful and you have to move nice and even and quick. Not fast mind you, just quick. Once you do a couple you will have the feel for it. The rod is not all that expensive. I think I paid $12.00 for 6 LB's. That is enough for about 15 kegs with 5 fittings each. Have fun. S.
Click to expand...

Thanks alot
i want to know becase i am going to build a brewtus ten and may do it in SS if i can get it cheep anuff
 
slnies said:
Don't let some of these guys fool ya. If you go with a gas set up, you do not have to change your wire. Flux core lays down even nicer with gas. I have welded for the Navy for years on heavy equipment, thin car body, and steel structure. The best advice would be to talk to a salesman at a reputable welding supply shop. They often times have more knowledge with the different types of wire, filler rod, and welding electrodes then do many welders. Just remember that is their job. That said, they will open your mind to all kinds of other possibilities to maximize your welding experience for your buck. Use them as a resource and if they steer you wrong let them know and often times they will make it right if it is with in their power. Welding should be fun, so enjoy it.
Click to expand...

A very old thread here but I must add to slnies reply. These days your local welding supply house salesmen come and go faster than a Chinese food delivery driver, know less than crap about hands on welding including repeating word for word a manufactured product printed list flaws included off the spec sheets. I'm talking 3 out of 5 welding supply places I used to deal with in my area for my company. They pay them crap, I rate them just below a new car salesman but they can tell you how many cup holders a vehicle has, BFD. Make a sale going in blind your on your own unless you have hands on with a tradesman welder not a DIY welder. Going in knowing what you want and expect in a welder will increase your enjoyment in this expensive tool investment.
 
Well, there you go.. More fantastic information that I did not know. I have a MIG that I have been using for years, and i have been paying the rental on a tank of Argoshield that only gets used 2-3 times a year. I also own my C02 tank, but never knew I could use it as a shielding gas. I am off to turn in the Argoshield tank tomorrow, and pick up another C02 tank. I wanted a spare tank anyway, and now I can own it rather than renting it, weld and have a spare tank for the kegereator!

Thanks heaps guys!
 
For the price of refills get the largest bottle you can as it will pay for itself rather quickly. They charge a lot more per/cu/ft on those small bottles when a large one could of been filled. It also depends on how much you weld. I was refilling my Argon 280 cu/ft bottle 5 times a year one time before I slowed down in life and changed companies. That was 1,400 cu/ft of Argon a busy year after work and on weekends. The same with Mig but then your wanting to use the bottle also for your brewing so that blows the 280 cu/ft bottle size plus the C-25 gas mix vs straight Co2. C-25 has less splatter and pays for itself in cleanup time alone. It fits my Mig welder perfectly plus I still have a brand new twin bottle rack for the Miller. I now have four 20# Co2 bottles for brewing, gave one away to a friend in need. May trade off a spare 280 cu/ft helium plus oxygen bottle for a large Nitro for the Stouts. O/A I'll keep in the "Q" owner owned size, no need for a big oxygen bottle and cutting torch with a plasma cutter. Welding supply shops like those lease I call sucker bottles as months become years fast before you figure it out a lot of time and money has pasted by, money towards owning your own bottles lost. This helps keep the behind the counter people paid. A rather large turnover these days not like 30 years ago. Back then you were on first name walking thru the door with a free rod sample or a lens. This is why you can not beat a company like www.cyberweld.com these days on their prices.
 
BrewBeemer said:
A very old thread here but I must add to slnies reply. These days your local welding supply house salesmen come and go faster than a Chinese food delivery driver, know less than crap about hands on welding including repeating word for word a manufactured product printed list flaws included off the spec sheets. I'm talking 3 out of 5 welding supply places I used to deal with in my area for my company. They pay them crap, I rate them just below a new car salesman but they can tell you how many cup holders a vehicle has, BFD. Make a sale going in blind your on your own unless you have hands on with a tradesman welder not a DIY welder. Going in knowing what you want and expect in a welder will increase your enjoyment in this expensive tool investment.
Click to expand...

BrewBeemer, you must have some poor welding shops around where you live. Most of the people at our locale welding supply shops have been there for years and provide a great resource. S.
 
BrewBeemer said:
For the price of refills get the largest bottle you can as it will pay for itself rather quickly. They charge a lot more per/cu/ft on those small bottles when a large one could of been filled. It also depends on how much you weld. I was refilling my Argon 280 cu/ft bottle 5 times a year one time before I slowed down in life and changed companies. That was 1,400 cu/ft of Argon a busy year after work and on weekends. The same with Mig but then your wanting to use the bottle also for your brewing so that blows the 280 cu/ft bottle size plus the C-25 gas mix vs straight Co2. C-25 has less splatter and pays for itself in cleanup time alone. It fits my Mig welder perfectly plus I still have a brand new twin bottle rack for the Miller. I now have four 20# Co2 bottles for brewing, gave one away to a friend in need. May trade off a spare 280 cu/ft helium plus oxygen bottle for a large Nitro for the Stouts. O/A I'll keep in the "Q" owner owned size, no need for a big oxygen bottle and cutting torch with a plasma cutter. Welding supply shops like those lease I call sucker bottles as months become years fast before you figure it out a lot of time and money has pasted by, money towards owning your own bottles lost. This helps keep the behind the counter people paid. A rather large turnover these days lot like 30 years ago. Back then you were on first name walking thru the door with a free rod sample or a lens. This is why you can not beat a company like Cyberweld.com - Welding Supplies - Miller, Hobart & More these days on their prices.
Click to expand...

+1 on this.

I recently got a TIG welder and bought a 20cuft bottle. First, that's useless because it's like 90-120 minutes of gas is all, but it cost me like $17 to fill it with Argon. I bought a 94cuft bottle right away and it only cost like $25 to fill.
 
I bought a Lincoln A/C MIG wilder for working on my Mustang, and love it. I've had to replace the heat range switches though, so be careful about abusing the duty cycle on those. They are meant for home and hobby, not for continuous welding.

I've never used gas WITH the flux, but might try it. Also, my welder requires that I swap the leads on the inside if I go from flux to MIG, and also flip the feed roller to accomodate the thicker wire (I use the thinnest wire I can for the sheet metal on the car body)

Welding is so much fun. I spent many hours trying different heats and feed rates for each different metal thickness. I even got my 12 yo daughter on it and she thought it was cool too. She gave it a few tries and then welded her name on the face of a piece of cast off sheet metal. I'd like to get her good enough to help out with the car, just to say that she helped weld it. I'm sure we'll get there!
 
Also, if you want to practice, look for a scrap metal recycling place nearby. They will have great prices on scrap that you can use for home projects or for just playing with.

As soon as I get my new compressor, I'm going to start building that new brewing rig!
 
slnies said:
BrewBeemer, you must have some poor welding shops around where you live. Most of the people at our locale welding supply shops have been there for years and provide a great resource. S.
Click to expand...

When Airgas purchased all the smaller local welding supply stores everything changed in my area. Gone the good sales people that knew their equipment for 20-30 years. Example extended tapered tips for the Miller 251, "sorry sir not availabe". Ended up with a different manufacture of tips, mounted in a collet on the lathe and made tapered tips for the smaller nozzle I run for tight header exhaust X crossovers. Over $3,428 for one Miller Mig without sales tax, 28 miles away same welder $2,506 after tax out the door. Support your local welding supply my azz. I can see why Cyberwelds came alone. Local supply personnel they are come and go people as before the takeover the sales people knew what would adapt or fit even with a little machining on my end and they knew ya by first name. One place I got many supplies and welders from gave me out of their old $50 off trade in box 3 Victor Tig / Mig flow gauges ball type and a 100 series set of regulators complete with gauges. Just needed rebuild kits. I did a little electrical work for their welding test bench area adding plugs and breakers a win win thing. Those were the good old days not now.
I already got a bad bottle of Argon from Airgas, welded like crap until I borrowed a friends bottle thinking it was me on a "off day". Took that 280 back for another owner exchange. Not light weight these 280's plus my travel time and gasoline.
Done ranting.
 
Over a year ago I bought one of these cheap-o all in one devices:

Link to eBay: Click Here

CT-416.jpg


The plasma cutting feature worked very well for cutting off the tops of my kegs. The stick was too complicated for me to use to build by stand, so I got a $99 mig welder that did the trick.

mig.jpg


I've experimented for hours with the TIG feature but can't get the AMPs setting right. Besides the knob on the machine, I don't see a way to control the amount/force of the arc while tigging. There is no foot pedal attachment. It seems like I either have it turned up too much and blow a hole thru the SS or I have it turned down and barely get it glowing and the filler rod just clumps on top of the SS.

I should have put up some real money to get a name brand device, but it wasn't in the budget (and still isn't).

Does anyone have a similar device that has used the TIG feature to attach SS couplings to a keg?

Thanks...
 
Yes but you would not like even the price I paid for my Tig back 1991 for a fully loaded every option available Miller 350 Synchrowave Tig welder. When done with including custom made stick stinger leads, cooler lines and cooling pump I built, HD foot control, wet Tig torch I was at $4,237 back in 91. Company side job welding on weekends paid for the welder within 7 months plus a 3 year tax write off on top. A positive money making machine by thousands of dollars after the 3 year writeoff. It never left my shop. The replacement model called Synchrowave 350LX does not have the extra features my older welder has plus without adding the stinger leads and other custom options I added and Miller's list price has you at $7,832 before taxes. Go to; www.cyberweld.com for the best prices but you should try many different machines and models besides manufactures then decide what fits your needs, wants and wallet. This is a tough one these days as the prices have gone crazy. Hope this heped. Another seperate story I again got lucky on with a brand new Miller 251 Mig machine.
REMEMBER YOU ASKED.
 

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