hydrometer question

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IreRye

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so i totally flaked out and forgot to get a hydrometer reading before adding the yeast.... this isnt going to screw me up later on is it?

also, im totally confusing myself by reading different things all over the place.. and confused about the hydrometer reading in general.

ive racked my beer in primary 3 days ago. going to wait for the airlock to stop bubbling, then rack it to a secondary and dry hop..
 
It depends on what you are brewing. If you get a hydrometer and take readings later you can still use those readings to determine when fermentation has ended (SG will remain constant).

If it was an extract kit the OG is fixed. If you did a partial or full mash you may only be able to estimate OG with a calculator. If you have an idea of what your OG was then you can estimate what the final gravity should be.
 
I haven't been using a hydrometer for OG readings for some time. Your OG readings should be posted on the instructions. Often OG readings can be skewed due to the top off water not being mixed into the beer well enough, so it might only confuse you if you take an OG reading anyway. I just take final gravity readings, as the yeast will mix your beer for you during fermentation so your reading will be accurate providing you followed the recipe, and ended up with the right volume of beer. Just get a hydrometer for your FG readings, and your beer will be fine.
 
A lot of things can effect your og. Not all dme or lme have the same amount of gravity points. Or if you don't have the exact same amount of water the instructions say. I suggest always taking a gravity reading. Yeast isn't gonna add any sugar to the wort so it shouldn't change the og. If taken when you pitch, before it has time to eat anything
 
Also I would give it 10 days to 2 weeks before you transfer to secondary even if the bubbling has stopped your yeast can still be at work
 
I've forgotten to take Hydro readings before and after etc etc. All in all I make good to great beer every time. It IS important, but if forgotten, you still make beer!
 
Also I would give it 10 days to 2 weeks before you transfer to secondary even if the bubbling has stopped your yeast can still be at work

You don't want to rack to secondary until the yeast have finished their work because that can stall the fermentation. That big bunch of yeast at the bottom of the fermenter that looks dead is still working to improve your beer. You can leave your beer in the primary much longer than your instructions say and get better beer for doing so. The batch I left for 9 weeks was some of the smoothest drinking beer I have produced. I haven't secondaried a beer yet except to add fruit and my beers come out very clear. You should read this bit on yeast to learn how they work to make beer.

http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html
 
RM-MN said:
You don't want to rack to secondary until the yeast have finished their work because that can stall the fermentation. That big bunch of yeast at the bottom of the fermenter that looks dead is still working to improve your beer. You can leave your beer in the primary much longer than your instructions say and get better beer for doing so. The batch I left for 9 weeks was some of the smoothest drinking beer I have produced. I haven't secondaried a beer yet except to add fruit and my beers come out very clear. You should read this bit on yeast to learn how they work to make beer.

http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html

Excellent. Thank you much
 
Hard to see, but im confused...


What is my reading?

image-206381702.jpg
 
Looks to be about 1.012-1.014 from what I can make out from the pic. You will want to read the line on the hydrometer just below the surface level of the beer. (Should be a clear bit on the surface read from underneath that)
 
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