Some questions from a newbie...

ok, I know these questions must have been asked here before, but for some reason, I can't get the search function to work. I have some very basic questions that I'm hoping to get cleared up here.


1. relating to final gravity, my hydrometer reads 1.030 after two weeks of fermenting. It was stored in constant temp of 68-70 degrees for the entire time. There were a couple of days that it got above 80 here, but the back hallway was still always about that temp. I know this is not the desired fg for the ipa recipe I have brewed (kit). It's supposed to be at 1.012-1.015.

This seems way off considering I got the bubbling for a solid 3 days before it quieted down.

Do I need to sanitize my bottles just before bottling or is it ok that they be sanitized the night before?

I bought a "fermometer" it is an adhesive thing looks like a fishtank thermometer, but it reads different temp ranges? for lager, ale and wine. does this just get stuck on the side of my brewing bucket?

I think that's all for now. Would love to hear some advice or suggestions. Thanks

Id sanitize them pretty close to bottling time... you can sanitize them and then cover the top with aluminum foil tightly...

Id be very careful bottling a beer with yeast in it that is at 1.030.... really. That is a bomb in the waiting...

Id try to rouse the yeast... I am not sure if your temps perhaps got out of control and hurt your yeast?

What was your OG? How much did it drop?

You may want to try to repitch some yeast... a beer at 1.030 isnt going to taste much like beer at all, more like sugar water... you have nothing to lose

Hey thanks, I guess I'll resanitize a little before bottling.

My og was 1.050 approximately. I gave it a good stir a few hours ago. I could repitch some yeast. If I go that route, how long should I ferment for afterwards? And did I leave it to ferment too long? (2 weeks).

Oh, you can leave beer in the primary for weeks... some large beers take that to ferment anyway. The good news is that you have alcohol content, and a lower PH, so your beer isn't as prone to infection now. Stir it up, dont aerate it though... maybe repitch... I have left beer in a primary for 4-6 weeks... no problems with it. I have a Heffe and a cider that are both in thier 2nd week of fermenting. Patience is the key... what sort of yeast did you use?

Wow, I appreciate the quick responses
I used nottingham dry ale yeast. I have a Munton's Active Brewing Yeast that has been in the fridge since I bought it, and also a White Labs dry English Ale yeast that has been in the fridge since I bought it, but expired a couple months ago.

Is this beer still salvagable? I gave it a few stirs but didn't overdo it. How would I aerate it? overstir vigorously?

splashing will cause aeration, swirling or slight stirring is the way to go.

the nottingham should be able to take care of that beer. i'd let it sit another week and take another reading.

Sloshing, making bubbles... aerating

Hey, your beer will be fine... Id let it rest for a bit to see if rousig the yeast sets it off again. Id give it a day, if nothing, rehydrate the Muntons and pitch it. The WLP yeast, MAY still be good, save it, make a starter to proof it and ensure it is viable before using it though.

Your beer will be fine... just takes time sometimes. Watch those temps... large fluctuations will send your yeast into a tailspin, or stress them at the very least.

Nottingham should generally take you to finishing gravity on a 1.050 beer in 7 days or less, especailly at warmer temps... it is a pretty vigorous yeast.

Wow, this forum is fantastic. Thanks for the responses guys. You don't find too many forums on line that treat the newcomer with as much patience as you do here. When I got into this brewing thing, I never thought it would be this complicated. I really appreciate this as a resource now that I've decided to finally brew.

I will take another reading tomorrow. Perhaps, I'm reading the hydrometer wrong? Also, would a taste test tell me anything?

and last but not least, in future brewings, will the adhesive fermometer help me or this is just another trinket?

It will help... here is why... your brew can actually be up to say 5 degrees F hotter than the room temp when it is fermenting. It is nice to have, to see the temp of the container itself.

I think the search function only works for the paid subscribers. After a couple weeks you will probably kick in twenty bucks. This really is the best online homebrew forum.

Regarding temperature: I use "ambient", meaning..whatever it is in my basement, thats what it will be. I brew summer and winter. Sometimes it takes longer, sometimes shorter. The solid bubbling for three days should have done it. How much extract and DME is in this? Also, re-calculate the hydrometer reading and use the temperature chart to correct; the printed reading is for , I think, 65 degrees.
Wait a few more days.

hey gmal1,

Thanks for the response. I used a recipe that was given to me by my local brew supply store. It called for:

6.6 lbs light malt extract
1lb crushed crystal malt 60L
8 oz crushed victory

As of tomorrow, my beer will have been fermenting for one month. I just took another reading today. My reading was 1.021. The recipe for this IPA is supposed to be between 1.012-1.015. My question is, at this point should I just go ahead and prime and bottle, or should I pitch another yeast?

Oh and, I'm going to become a member today. I think it's time. Thanks guys.