Blingman Instructions

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Beer:30

Chief Bottle Washer
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In general, I find Blichmann equipment to be pricey, but of good quality. What always amazes me though is the poor quality of the instructions that come with the equipment; full of spelling mistakes and even incorrect information. I just recently purchased the therminator and the operation instructions suggest that you whirlpool and then put the cover back on the kettle and let it sit for 15 minutes!:eek::eek: Is he not aware of DMS?
I couldn't believe it when I read it.
 
In general, I find Blichmann equipment to be pricey, but of good quality. What always amazes me though is the poor quality of the instructions that come with the equipment; full of spelling mistakes and even incorrect information. I just recently purchased the therminator and the operation instructions suggest that you whirlpool and then put the cover back on the kettle and let it sit for 15 minutes!:eek::eek: Is he not aware of DMS?
I couldn't believe it when I read it.

I do whirlpool for about 10 minutes and let it sit for 20 minutes before using the therminator without problems (This is too eliminate as much trub/hops as possible going into the fermenter). I see people doing this even without the therminator.
 
Depends how long the boil is and the grist composition, and also how vigorous the fermentation is. I think you are still driving off SMM after flameout, but not as high of a rate. I would think if you pitch proper rates of healthy yeast, it shouldn't matter most of the time.
 
There is nothing wrong with putting the lid on after whirlpooling. Would you rather it sit uncovered to let all manner of nasties float in?

I don't whirlpool but use a cfc. As soon as the boil is done the lid goes on, never a problem. If the dms hasn't been driven off during the boil, something is wrong.
 
Is he not aware of DMS?
I couldn't believe it when I read it.

It seems to me that you don't know how DMS is dissipated. If you form detectable levels of DMS after the boil, you didn't boil for long enough.
 
There is nothing wrong with putting the lid on after whirlpooling, the wort has been cooled. Would you rather it sit uncovered to let all manner of nasties float in?

I think he is saying the instructions suggest whirlpooling BEFORE chilling (to limit the amount of protein and hop junk that would get sucked into the therminator).

granted, DMS shouldn't be an issue in this scenario either, so it's just a clarification.

Have seen many micros that do this pre-chill whirlpool up to 30 minutes, but the top of their boilers aren't generally open to nasties freely crawling/flying/falling in, either.
 
I have never had any issues with off flavor, I have just read that covering is a no no. I did not realize that it does not form post boil.

It can, but only if you didn't boil off the precursor SMM using a vigorous boil lasting at least 60 minutes for pale malts and 90-100 minutes for Pilsner malts.
 
As usual HBT continues to show me just how little I do know! I have always used a cfc and cooled immediately following flame out. But now that I am moving toward a plate chiller, I was thinking that I would modifying my methods. I initially thought that recirculating back into the kettle would be an effective means of keeping cold break out of the fermenter. But the hot break/and hops cone won't last too long if I recirculate.
 
As usual HBT continues to show me just how little I do know! I have always used a cfc and cooled immediately following flame out. But now that I am moving toward a plate chiller, I was thinking that I would modifying my methods. I initially thought that recirculating back into the kettle would be an effective means of keeping cold break out of the fermenter. But the hot break/and hops cone won't last too long if I recirculate.

I think I have seen people use one of these (or similar) full of rice hulls between the kettle and the pump

40702b_1.jpg
 
Curious Gila, did you build something similar?

Gila has a BrewMagic that acts as a large storage shelf in his garage. It's a show-piece, really... not meant to be brewed upon, just looked at with perhaps the occasional stir-fry cooked upon it. :D
 
What a great idea with the rice hulls

Thanks. Was the best solution I could muster to protect my investment on a overpriced Sabco chill station. A 50 pound sack of rice hulls only cost $35 so it made sense to me.

Aside from lack of use of course, but hey, both work.
 
I simply placed a rice hulls filled grant/hop back between my brew pot and chill station (chill wizard).

I'm curious, what is the temp of the wort coming out of the hopback?

I ask because doesn't the cold break start at something like 140F? So unless your wort is getting down below that by the time it gets through the hopback, you aren't going to get much cold break material caught in there.
 
I'm curious, what is the temp of the wort coming out of the hopback?

I ask because doesn't the cold break start at something like 140F? So unless your wort is getting down below that by the time it gets through the hopback, you aren't going to get much cold break material caught in there.

I recirculate the wort until I attain pitch temp inline. The primary use of the hulls is to trap the hot break and pellet debris prior to chiller inlet since no matter what you do with a plate chiller the cold break will be formed within the chiller itself.
 
I have a hop stopper screen on the bottom of my kettle. I guess I will try to recirculate from chiller back into kettle and see if that is enough to keep my pellet hops and break out of the fermenter. I don't know if I'm asking for trouble
 
I have a hop stopper screen on the bottom of my kettle. I guess I will try to recirculate from chiller back into kettle and see if that is enough to keep my pellet hops and break out of the fermenter. I don't know if I'm asking for trouble

I tried it. I tried recirculating into a hop bag too.

This method took two attempts but ultimately is what works for me. First attempt was a weldless DIY grant. Proved the concept worked for me to pull the trigger on a better fitted peice of equipment.

FTR, brewershardware also sells a tube contraption that performs the same function.
 

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