Found the 'Magic' in 'Magic Chef' - keezer progress, questions

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MadDwarf

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The magic is clearly in the insane space efficiency of the 7.2cf Home Depot chest freezer. Footprint is less than 3' wide by 2' deep, but with collar can hold 6 cornys AND a 5lb CO2 tank. My old beater of a Kelvinator (may she rest in peace) was easily twice the width, and only held 2 more kegs.

First some pics of progress so far, then a couple questions...

Attached the collar to the lid for easier access. Collar is 1x8 oak, high enough to allow kegs on the compressor hump. I routed the groove in the bottom edge with a keyhole bit, so the rubber seal from the lid can be pressed into place and will stay put without gluing or caulking.





Basically together. Freezer was a Craigslist find for $100, showing up after days of searching just I was about to break down and buy one new. Faucets are Perlicks from Superprod. The white magnets on top are supposed to have cards attached with the beer names so I can remove the lovely masking tape, but haven't gotten around to it yet.





Crammed full. There isn't an inch to spare, but 6 happy cornys snuggling together, with just enough of a gap to slide my CO2 tank into the center. That part came as a surprise - I'd already resigned myself to moving the tank outside the freezer.





The inner fiddly bits. Each keg has its own regulator for discreet pressures, which gives me more things to tinker with. Which is, of course, the whole point.

 
The little darlin’ doing what she does best.


Remaining work:
  • Build a dolly with good coasters so I can move the keezer around more easily. I’d like to trim that out in matching oak as I’ve seen on a few other projects here.
  • Swap out my Ranco temp controller for one of the dead sexah Love controllers so I can build it into the collar. Love the look of the digital readout on those. The Ranco will no doubt find itself pressed into service for fermentation temp control once it starts cooling off.
  • Buy or make some better tap handles. I’d like to have handles that I can put beer labels on, but most of those are pretty tall. I like the low-profile of the generic black handles, so will want to find something around that size.
Questions for the DIY crew:
First, I was originally planning on insulating the inside of the collar with the standard pink sheets. But it doesn’t seem to lose much heat now that the seams are caulked, and it’s… well… kinda pretty. Ok, quit looking at me like that – I just find myself loathe to turn the inside all pink and boring. I know the wood doesn’t have anywhere near the insulating value, but has anyone used a Kill-O-Watt or something similar to find out exactly how much more the freezer has to run to maintain temp? It doesn’t appear to come on very often now, but real data is better than inconsistent observation.

Second, I’d like to be able to easily swap out the beer lines between the keg and the elbow connection so I can play with balancing the system without constantly cutting tubing off barbs. Trying to decide between in-line poly disconnects, and swapping out the barbed tailpieces for MFL tailpieces. Anyone had trouble with either method, or have a strong recommendation?
Many, many thanks to all the folk on this forum that have posted pics of their keezer builds. Collectively you saved me from a dozen bad decisions and mistakes before I even got started. :mug:
 
That is incredible that 6 cornies fit in there like that. I think I now know exactly what freezer model to by when if when I build a keezer.

Nice build!
 
Really nice job! I hope mine comes out that nice. My freezer is supposed to be delivered at the end of this month.
 
nice work! IMO the wood looks great on the outside, despite the insulation issue. i'm sure you could line the inside with reflectix or something simple like that just to help a little
 
Very nicely done. I'll be coming to Buckley this weekend to get my new kegerator. Let's make it easy. You go out for the night and leave the door unlocked.:D
 
How are the board attached to each other, are there some really small nails that i just can't see? Is it sturdy?
 
That is the perfect size for the closet in my office. Will four kegs, a carboy and a couple of six pack containers fit, if the CO2 bottle was outside the keezer?

Could you post more pics? That is very slick looking!

:rockin:
 
Very nice. Talk about maximizing your footprint. I've been eying a freezer that's twice the size for the same number of kegs/faucets.
 
That's a very nice build there dude. If you aren't loosing that much cold through the wood, I'd keep it the way it is...it's up to you
 
How are the board attached to each other, are there some really small nails that i just can't see? Is it sturdy?

The boards are screwed together with 2" gold wood screws. I predrilled the holes after making sure the mitre cuts all lined up and clamping everything together. They're not visible in the above pics, but I'll grab a picture tonight. They're not very noticeable, though - the holes are countersunk so the screws are flush with the sides and the stain and varnish over the screw head gave it some camouflage. I've considered backing the screws out one at a time and replacing with oak dowels now that I'm fairly sure I won't be making huge changes, but that would be a ways down the project list. That would just be for aesthetics though - the current method is plenty solid, probably more so than the rest of the freezer :)



That is the perfect size for the closet in my office. Will four kegs, a carboy and a couple of six pack containers fit, if the CO2 bottle was outside the keezer?

Could you post more pics? That is very slick looking!

Not sure about 4 cornys + carboy, but I'll give it a try and let you know. I suspect it may be possible, but only if I add some support to extend the compressor shelf out a bit. What other pics would be useful?



Very nicely done. I'll be coming to Buckley this weekend to get my new kegerator. Let's make it easy. You go out for the night and leave the door unlocked.:D

McKBrew, I left a pint out for you, but you never showed up! Not sure what the problem was, I let that thing sit there for a good 30-45 seconds before giving up and drinking it myself.
 
Ooohh! I got it! You appear to be good with wood - make your tap handles outa wood, silhouette shapes like a pilsner glass, mash paddle, barley head, war axe, rubber chicken, etc. BUT counterbore a relief in them that is flat, then paint the relief area with that chalkboard paint. Then you could label each beer on the handle with chalk.

Does that make sense?

Williams sells an insert for the threads, I'm sure others do also: TAPHANDLE THREADED INSERT @ Williams Brewing


Buy or make some better tap handles. I’d like to have handles that I can put beer labels on, but most of those are pretty tall. I like the low-profile of the generic black handles, so will want to find something around that size.
 
You can also get those tap insert things from mcmaster, i can't remember the part number but they are uber cheap through them...
 
whoa, thats awesome. Wonder if I can convince the wife that'll fit nice next to the washing machine :)
 
Ooohh! I got it! You appear to be good with wood - make your tap handles outa wood, silhouette shapes like a pilsner glass, mash paddle, barley head, war axe, rubber chicken, etc. BUT counterbore a relief in them that is flat, then paint the relief area with that chalkboard paint. Then you could label each beer on the handle with chalk.

Good with wood, that's umm... there's no safe answer there. So I'll just say "Thanks!" :) I do like the idea of carving my own, it's just a matter of whether I can get enough flat space for names without making the taps too wide or high.



very nice. I love the oak. What stain/poly did you use?
Where did you get those regs?
are they the ones from here?

Both finish products are from Minwax. Stain was 2 coats of oil-based Wood Finish in Golden Oak. Seal was 2 coats of Helmsman Spar Urethane - supposed to protect against both moisture and temperature variation, the issues I was most concerned about.

The sciplus secondary regulators are the ones I was originally planning to use. However, ajwillys had great timing, and put the regulator banks from his massive craigslist haul up on Classifieds just as I was starting to collect parts, so I bought two of those. I probably wouldn't have picked up the beer line wall brackets if they hadn't been included on those panels, but they turned out to be pretty neat for keeping things organized. I'll post a close-up of the regulators in a little bit.
 
However, ajwillys had great timing, and put the regulator banks from his massive craigslist haul up on Classifieds just as I was starting to collect parts, so I bought two of those. I probably wouldn't have picked up the beer line wall brackets if they hadn't been included on those panels, but they turned out to be pretty neat for keeping things organized. I'll post a close-up of the regulators in a little bit.

Hey, nice looking regs! I'm glad you were able to put them to good use. When I get to the point where I need a 6 keg kegerator, you are sending them back right? :D
 
No, but if you wanted to come pick them up, I bet McKBrew could give you a lift. He'll probably need someone to hold the flashlight :D
 
You are my hero. That is exactly what I want! Right now I'm using party spigots. I have that freezer. At least the diamonds look familiar. I am so tempted to copy what you did! Right now I can hold 2 cornys, which is all I have anyway.

Thanks
 
Mad,

Did you use liquid nails to get the wood onto the door? I could see little brackets if I look closely at the picture, but I assume you used some kind of glue also.
 
That is a nice rig. Each Keg has it's own regulator and faucet. All matching faucets is great too.
 
Cool kegerator!

I just bought the same model, and have a question:

Some people attach the collar to the lid, others attach it to the freezer body, what the pros and cons of each method?

Thanks!
Michael
 
I just purchased a used E-Wave 7.2 Cu. Ft. chest freezer (model EWCF7WBX) on Craigslist, only to happily discover than an E-Wave is just a rebranded Magic Chef. I checked it out last night, and I can fit 6 kegs plus a CO2 tank!

Question for the OP: It looks like you're using the commonly touted 19" drip tray. That would mean you have your taps mounted at about 3" on center, correct? Have you run into any difficulties having your taps that close together? The price on the 19" drip tray is pretty great, so I'd like to use it, but once I stopped and did the math I realized I wasn't going to be able to get 4" for each tap at that rate.
 
I just purchased a used E-Wave 7.2 Cu. Ft. chest freezer (model EWCF7WBX) on Craigslist, only to happily discover than an E-Wave is just a rebranded Magic Chef. I checked it out last night, and I can fit 6 kegs plus a CO2 tank!

Question for the OP: It looks like you're using the commonly touted 19" drip tray. That would mean you have your taps mounted at about 3" on center, correct? Have you run into any difficulties having your taps that close together? The price on the 19" drip tray is pretty great, so I'd like to use it, but once I stopped and did the math I realized I wasn't going to be able to get 4" for each tap at that rate.


Yep, that is the bigger magic chef. I have the smaller one. What temp controller are you plannig to install on it?
 
I just purchased a used E-Wave 7.2 Cu. Ft. chest freezer (model EWCF7WBX) on Craigslist, only to happily discover than an E-Wave is just a rebranded Magic Chef. I checked it out last night, and I can fit 6 kegs plus a CO2 tank!

Question for the OP: It looks like you're using the commonly touted 19" drip tray. That would mean you have your taps mounted at about 3" on center, correct? Have you run into any difficulties having your taps that close together? The price on the 19" drip tray is pretty great, so I'd like to use it, but once I stopped and did the math I realized I wasn't going to be able to get 4" for each tap at that rate.

The holes are spaced 3-3/8" apart, which makes the distance between the outer edges of the first and last flange 19". No difficulties with the spacing, though you might want to make sure your tap handles have enough clearance if you're planning on using ones like some of the DIY handles that have a wide area at the top for labels. Mine are fairly narrow, so no issues there.

6 standard pint glasses fit on the 19" drip tray with a tiny bit of overlap, so you could technically have a full glass under each faucet. I wouldn't necessarily recommend that, though, unless you're feeling really confident in your drip tray mounting. :)
 
A suggestion for your tap handles, if you want to make your own and have room for labels on them; Do you think staggering the wide part of each handle could work. On the first handle it would be at the base, and at the next it would be near the top. Then alternate down the line. Nice build, im envious
 
Thanks for the info, MadDwarf. I hadn't yet thought out the tap handle situation, so that's definitely food for thought. Nothing I have will be have so gorgeous as those you've carved... incredible work!

Yep, that is the bigger magic chef. I have the smaller one. What temp controller are you plannig to install on it?

I just purchased a Love Temperature Controller (and a thermistor probe) online today. It'll be mounted on the front of the collar.
 
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Thanks for the info, MadDwarf. I hadn't yet thought out the tap handle situation, so that's definitely food for thought. Nothing I have will be have so gorgeous as those you've carved... incredible work!



I just purchased a Love Temperature Controller (and a thermistor probe) online today. It'll be mounted on the front of the collar.

Cool, that's the same temp controller I'm buying for my magic chef. Do you already have a good understanding of how to install it? I think I understood the wiring diagrams posted in another thread here pretty well, but I don't know is:

1- Should I install the controller direct to the compressor totally bypassing the thermostat, therefore disconnecting the freezer’s thermostat, or
2- Should I use the thermostat to power the controller and don’t mess with power feeding the thermostat, or
3- Should I use the controller to power the thermostat and don't mess with the connections between the thermostat and the compressor.

The temperature controllers that comes wired uses method 3 and someone else in another thread suggested method 2 is the way to go. Anybody can help me?

Thanks...
 
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1- Should I install the controller direct to the compressor totally bypassing the thermostat, therefore disconnecting the freezer’s thermostat, or
2- Should I use the thermostat to power the controller and don’t mess with power feeding the thermostat, or
3- Should I use the controller to power the thermostat and don't mess with the connections between the thermostat and the compressor.

My 2¢ worth: In method 2 the thermostat can be used as a power switch when you need to work on the wiring or turn off the keezer for any reason.
 
You can open up the side and get to the thermostat if you really want. I just left mine set to the coldest setting and wired the Love controller to the power cable. (Yes, I cut the end)

IMG_0280.jpg
 
You can open up the side and get to the thermostat if you really want. I just left mine set to the coldest setting and wired the Love controller to the power cable. (Yes, I cut the end)

So, I think you did option number 3 from my previous post, that is, use the wall socket in your house to power the controller and connect the switch on from the controller to the thermostat. Most wired controller out there (Johnson, Ranco, etc) use this set up to override the thermostat.

I knew options 2 and 3 would work, but wondering if I could totally ignore the thermostat connecting the controller direct to the compressor (option 1), after all, the love controller is nothing but a more sophisticated thermostat, isn't it?
 
My 2¢ worth: In method 2 the thermostat can be used as a power switch when you need to work on the wiring or turn off the keezer for any reason.

I agree and that's the kind of set up (option 2) I'm inclined to do in mine; however, this set up will prevent the freezer to work at temperatures below what the thermostat can reach, not that I'm going to ever use such low temps for a kegerator, but that is something to keep in mind.
 
I didn't connect mine to the thermostat. I left the thermostat wired and attached the power from the Love to the power cable for the freezer. It's the easiest way to connect, unless you want to wire a female edison plug (extension cord) to the controller and just plug in your freezer.

B
 
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