Welder purchase

I'm looking into buying this MIG welder, mostly for my brewstand - but also for the fittings on my keggles. The specs state that I could weld SS with this machine, but most of what I've seen on welding fittings into your keggle recommend TIG .... my question is, if I get the right SS flux core OR go with SS wire + argon/co2 for MIG welding, can I use this to weld the fittings into my keggles? I already know that this machine will suffice for a mild steel brewstand, although I may consider going SS for that as well, if this machine would be up to the task?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200332691_200332691

I would not try welding fittings to your kettles with that, esp. not flux core and you will get questions concerning the low duty cycle. If you plan to build your own stand it should work fine, provided you give the machine rests between welds. It should be able to weld structural stainless fine, but welding a thin walled kettle to a thick walled fitting requires some finesse that can even challenge an experienced TIG welder.

I copied most of this from another thread and tried to edit content for your question.
Simply put, Yes. This machine will work, you will just have to take it slow. It will have a low duty cycle, but if you're a beginner, you'll be stopping a lot to prevent burn through. Tig is preferential for welding on the kegs, but definately not a must.
However since you ask this question, I'll go into a lot more detail. If you're a Welder, skip it. If not, I'd read it.
If you haven't or don't weld stainless regularly, it is a BIOTCH. I did my own kegs and because I'm stubborn, I can't say I wouldn't do it again, but I danged sure wouldn't look forward to it. You cannot weld stainless with flux cored wire. You have to have the supplies (bottle and gas $125 fo me, flux $25, wire $25). There are several threads about this subject, I would suggest reading. Read my comment on the first thread. It's about as non technical as you can get but I think most novices can understand it.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/any-tips-welding-stainless-117600/

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/adventures-welding-stainless-114738/

All things considered, I recently priced having some connections welded on my keg and it was basically $20 per weld. Depending on how nice your set up will be, that can easily add $60 to $80 to each keg. Also, having the supplies made me weld some other stainless "toys" Good Luck - Dwain

Thanks guys, Dwain I certainly feel a little more educated after reading those other threads. I may make the purchase and proceed with the stand build, then see how that goes before I try the kegs.

thanks again

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200306073_200306073
if you can afford it i'd go with this one instead. Miller makes it and slaps a different name on it and sells it for less.

Dwain said:

You cannot weld stainless with flux cored wire. You have to have the supplies (bottle and gas $125 fo me, flux $25, wire $25). There are several threads about this subject, I would suggest reading. Read my comment on the first thread. It's about as non technical as you can get but I think most novices can understand it.

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I beg to differ you can weld SS with Flux Core. You just need to buy the SS Flux Core wire. It cost alot more but is still way cheaper than a Gas setup. You will have to contend with the slag but if plan to make your welds look pretty by hitting them with a grinder is not big deal.

LarMoeCur,
You are correct, you can weld stainless with flux-core. This seems to be a relatively new product for the mainstream. But it is a better example of an old dog (me) learning new tricks. Here is a web site with some general info:

www.kobelcowelding.com/PDF/DWGbrochure.pdf

Have you used this stuff? All of the info I can find on the different brands (Google stainless flux core wire)shows that they still use shielding gas. I will call some of the tech. support lines tomorrow to follow up. - Dwain

Not sure if you have any other projects or plans with the welder but as a career welder I would advise to get a dc 220 type stick welder, tig torch/hose, regulator, and lease a bottle of argon. Dc neg on the stick will give you a good scratch start tig weld for carbon and stainless steel. Not nearly as fancy as a welder the shops will try to sell you but I've passed every x-ray with that exact setup. Just something to consider especially if you have the room and consider more projects down the road.

PM bad67z. He sells welding equipment and used to be a fabricator, he can help you out.

Dwain,
I'm in my 2nd week of Welding Technical Intro 106. I've messed around with some SS flux core welds. I cut a corney keg down to 3 gallons. I took the extra metal and made a few practice welds to see what I think will work best. The flux core works pretty good but you really need to hit the back side of the weld with a grinder. The flux shielding does not keep the oxidation down on the back side. The splater is much less with SS flux core. So, keg welding is out with flux core. I plan to pump argon into the open keg and then weld it with gas before my class ends.

I will be welding up my keggles with the flux core. I'll touch it up with a small grinding wheel and a wire brush. It should keep the oxidation down to a min. I don't see how you can go wrong using Flux core about 1/2 the price of a gas set up. I'll post some pictures to show the out come.

I had a Hobart handler 140 before, it was a solid little machine, and I would buy one again if it came my way. I have a similar sized craftsman and it is no where near as well built, and it's been giving me problems.

I have that very same Northern Tool 135 Mig Gun.. I love it.. Yeah it has a short duty cycle but it is perfect for what I need to do around the house.. I have not tried to weld SS yet, but will in the future.. I am very happy with it's performance on steel, runs a great little bead.. Just make sure to give it time to rest and cool to get the most service life out of it..

You can weld stainless with a mig just fine BUT the problem is when you weld a keg you get black oxidization on the inside and a very nasty looking weld in side also. When you weld a fitting on a keg you should back gas it with argon to sheild the area also a tig weld is less likely to leak.

Pat

If you are asking about capability of that machine, then yes it will perform the tasks you ask of it. Is it the best way to do it? No, but the best way would require you purchasing a 2000$ of equipment and then the requisite time to hone your skill.

Welding SS with a 115v GMAW machine is very doable. You will be asking alot of the unit and also yourself if you are teaching yourself with this project. The brew stand/ sculpture/ edifice would be no problem in both the skill area and machine capability. It would actually be a perfect learning project if you already have basic measuring and fabrication skills. Plus, you get a new tool out of it. Your chances of success are pretty high, its just not the "Bugatti" way of doing it, this would be more of the "Acura" version. A step up from the base, but not the top shelf either.

The trick from going to SS from mild steel will be in the gas and weld parameter. For the same thickness SS vs. mild steel you will want more amperage and a higher argon content in your shielding gas. I would not run anything thicker than 0.035" SS on this unit. 0.023" would be ideal. With a 20% duty cycle @ 88 amps you will need to cut that in half for the SS. In other words, you will get a 10% duty @ the higher amperages. Do you know what duty cycle is referring to? What is your skill level with GMAW? I can help you out with this if you need to.

Thanks Funkatollah, my skill level is beginner - I have welded before with rods, but this was a solid 15 years ago and I only did it a handful of times ... just playing around basically trying to learn how to put down a "stack of coins" with a rod.

I have no further experience welding, but I am en engineer by trade and I'm quite handy around the house - so this is a skill that I'm looking forward to aquiring. I guess my plan would be to start with the stand and then on to the keggle fittings - using the video's on youtube for keg --> kettle conversion as a guide, along with the other posts on this site by Dwain .... seems I will want to keep the heat on the coupling since it's thick and basically "slap" the weld down on to the keg.

So I may go ahead with the purchase, or I may just scrap the idea and build a wood brew stand (ala Scuba Steve) and use weldless fittings --- that would give me more money for grain and hops

Still on the fence here guys ... but one other option is to take a welding course at the local community college and build the brewstand and convert the kegs as my "class project" ... then I could use their TIG equipment while learning to weld with a qualified instructor looking over my shoulder.

Thanks for all the helpful replies guys ... more to come.

I bought the Miller 135 and Love it, it has done a great job on the two burner stands I built out of 3/16 steel and are rock solid.

I'm not building my rig out of stainless. I have a 110 MIG with gas, but I think it's just easier to build it out of regular steel. If I decide some parts need SS, then I can TIG at work. But I've read that you can do SS on a TIG welder. The welders at work say it's a bit more trouble than regular steel, but possible. But why do that when I can TIG using one of the welders at work? Ok, if they want me too! LOL!

The big problem with TIG welding fermentation containers in my mind would be getting a smooth weld on the inside, where it might be hard to grind and polish.

If you have stick welded years ago, you will be amazed at the quality and ease of a gas MIG weld. I have a Lincoln Electric HandyMIG. One of the cheaper units and it welds fine. Not quite as much power as I really want, but I have a 220AC stick welder that was my dad's for heavier stuff. The MIG I bought for doing bodywork on my mustang, where it's mostly running at lowest setting.

The big problem with TIG welding fermentation containers in my mind would be getting a smooth weld on the inside, where it might be hard to grind and polish.

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A few posts back, I talked about finding a guy to do my tig welding on my keggles for ~$20/weld (3 weld min.) He said he would reach inside and weld them so they would be sanitary. I said, "That's not much space". He said "That's why your paying me". I didn't use him, but I probably will if I build any more keggles. - Dwain

With having some experience welding, you're already gotten started on mechanics and will most likely adjust to the GMAW process with relative ease. The major difference and what will drive you nuts is that you don't have to keep the arc length consistent by moving your hand into the weld. Keep your torch as static as possible in relation to the joint. This will ensure a consistent bead profile on the surface and within the material. Also, it's point and shoot, no scratching and dealing with a stuck electrode.

I would say to start with building the stand out of mild steel. The machine parameters can be set to compensate for skill and the repetition of repeating the same weld will just serve as great practice.

The black oxidation and rough appearance people are referring to is from the unprotected molten metal on the underside. It looks rough because all the impurities are floating to the surface (or in this case the underside) of the weld. A product called Solar Flux (a paste flux) is a popular solution to this, as well as purging the cavity with your shielding gas in order to displace the ambient atmosphere. I prefer purging because I already have everything I need to accomplish this and if I spend the 20$ on the flux, then that's 20$ I could have spent somewhere else.

On making a good weld, you already know how to aim the torch, favor the thicker material section and wet in the thinner with the toe of the weld. The practice building the stand will have taught you how to run the bead.

Really, the major difference in welding SS vs. mild is the machine settings. If your machine can't handle the elevated amps needed for SS, then reduce the electrode diameter from what you used for mild steel. Since this needs to be food grade, use a 316 or 314 filler. They can handle the acidic conditions and are most likely what the base material is.