A quick video demo of a simulated PID+SSR+Heating Element for the novice beginner

I myself just started to research going all electric and using a controller to somewhat automate my setup last weekend. After countless readings on the HBT in the past week I ordered an Auber PID Temp Controller and a Solid State Relay (SSR).

I wanted to become familiar with the process so I wired up a simple circuit using a lightbulb to simulate a heating element.

I think this video might be helpful to those thinking about going electric or just getting started in the world PID's, HERMS and RIMS.



In the video I first mention I have two leads coming from my switch, one going to the PID which is true and one going to the lightbulb which is false. The second lead is actually going to terminal 1 of the SSR, and the lead from terminal 2 of the SSR is going to the lightbulb.


Also, someone has mentioned it previously on here but as I was browsing Home Depot today I noticed they had a Spa Disconnect Panel for $35 rated at 60amps 240v. That's one hell of a deal if you ask me.

Cool demo, I wimped out with my rig and used a Love controller instead. It doesn't give me quite as much accuracy as a PID system, but it was a bit easier to configure. +1 for beer geek cred.

This is very timely post for me. I will be wiring mine tomorrow. Thanks

inspector13 said:

This is very timely post for me. I will be wiring mine tomorrow. Thanks

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I concur, perfect timing for me, as well.

Ranger, thank you for this thread - perfect for someone who's thinking of goin electric.

Would you be able to provide a schematic of your setup on the video.

Bump...

Schematic...?

While I am by no means an electrician...and alot of this is REALLY new to me

I think this is the layout of said experiment:



The thumbnail sucks...but you can read the full image.

If these basic circuit concepts are foreign to you, you should hire an electrician to wire your system. The currents being switched are LETHAL.

Sorry didn't see the above asking for a schematic until today. I don't know how good it will be but I can get a basic drawing up.

GNBrews said:

If these basic circuit concepts are foreign to you, you should hire an electrician to wire your system. The currents being switched are LETHAL.

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I didn't know a lightbulb could kill me!

Shows what I know!

Ranger9913 said:

Sorry didn't see the above asking for a schematic until today. I don't know how good it will be but I can get a basic drawing up.

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Oh, don't worry 'bout it... i lost interest...

I have started buying the stuff to get into RIMS... got the pump so far...

Next step will be the heating element.

I already know that I must get either a Low or Ultra Low density element...

However, I´m a bit concerned about the material the heating element is made of. Can I just go to the store and buy any immersion heating element? Or should I be concerned about the material it is made of ?? Im concerned about having anything released in my wort that is not food safe kind of thing...

I agree with another poster if this stuff has to be explained at a third grade level best to hire a professional to help wire. This can be dangerous. What is simple as pie to me maybe the demise of some.

I dont think I made myself quite understood... My question is not related to the electrics of things... Its more like: Is the metal used in the heating element OK to be in contact with the mash... "won´t it release any substance in the mash that is supposed to be avoided" Some people say aluminium pots is no good for brewing or anything related to cooking. Also, components made of aluminium/brass/etc in the brewing should not touch the the mash, etc. So what Im basic asking is there a specific heating element made of something that i should buy... or all of them are supposed to be the same and should be fine in terms of health concerns.

thanks

Some people have done the research on the Camco elements and they are basically stainless steel or very close to it. There was thread going around about this on here this week. The common opinion was that it's safe, yes it might give off a minute amount of stuff over time but it's no worse than drinking soda from an aluminum can.

cronix said:

I dont think I made myself quite understood... My question is not related to the electrics of things... Its more like: Is the metal used in the heating element OK to be in contact with the mash... "won´t it release any substance in the mash that is supposed to be avoided" Some people say aluminium pots is no good for brewing or anything related to cooking. Also, components made of aluminium/brass/etc in the brewing should not touch the the mash, etc. So what Im basic asking is there a specific heating element made of something that i should buy... or all of them are supposed to be the same and should be fine in terms of health concerns.

thanks

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Since all of these water heater elements are designed to be in direct contact with water that people drink, I assume (or at least hope!) that they are made of materials that won't leach deadly toxins. That said, mash is typically lower pH than water, so maybe that would make a difference?

May I suggest that you look for a low density or extra low density Incoloy element. Incoloy is a type of stainless material that will not corrode. The extra low density element will help eliminate any chance of scorching. (They can be dry fired without burning up) The low density unit is also a good choice. You can get them most anywhere.

Lowes has some stainless elements. My local store has 4500 and 5500 watt/240V elements. Some stores apparently have 6000 watt ones. The ones in my store aren't low density wattage elements.

I don't think the typical residential water heater elements are manufactured to potable water contact regulations, since the hot water isn't intended for drinking or cooking. If anyone knows more about this, let us know.