Upright Keezer, 8 taps, 11 kegs

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JonW, I don't know how you use vinyl hose. I used some initially on my build as per your suggestion due to the door. Could taste the hose in all my beers. Had to replace it with hard barrier lines. Im thinking I will pick up a bunch of 90 deg SS elbows to help organize the hard lines.

Some vinyl hose is rated for beverage and works just fine. However, others can give you a vinyl off flavor. Where did you get yours from?
 
Does anyone see the need to utilize the frost-free function in these freezers? I started working on mine last night (model newer than the OPs) and am planning in bypassing the computer altogether. The coils could freeze condensation temporarily while cooling, but it isn't like I will ever keep the unit constantly below freezing.

Also, I bypassed the door light switch and installed a toggle switch so I can have light when I want.

Ben

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Does anyone see the need to utilize the frost-free function in these freezers? I started working on mine last night (model newer than the OPs) and am planning in bypassing the computer altogether. The coils could freeze condensation temporarily while cooling, but it isn't like I will ever keep the unit constantly below freezing.

Also, I bypassed the door light switch and installed a toggle switch so I can have light when I want.

Ben

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Awesome to see a sankey get in that Ben. I need to make sure there is enough room under my shelf because I too like getting a commercial keg now and then. I too will be bypassing all the electronics once my new temp controller arrives. I cant imagine you will ever need the frost free function.
 
Awesome to see a sankey get in that Ben. I need to make sure there is enough room under my shelf because I too like getting a commercial keg now and then. I too will be bypassing all the electronics once my new temp controller arrives. I cant imagine you will ever need the frost free function.

Be careful lifting the Sanke in and out. This one was empty and I guess I didn't lift it high enough when putting it in and and cracked the plastic on the front lip. I am thinking a piece of Aluminum channel will prevent that from happening again...
 
Has anyone thought about using Disconnects for their lines, so when not in use they can be removed? It would also make it easier to hook up their kegs outside, and than put them in? The come in valved and nonvalved, if you wish to prevent leaking.

I ran the numbers and I can outfit my 11 tap (beer lines are valved, gas is nonvalved) with everything it needs for $110...

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=84241&catid=743

I noticed that some homebrew shops sell these for about $20/set, might as well cut out the middle man, they are around $7 a set from USPlastics...

60985p.jpg
 
I think he means on the tap side. I was looking for MFL capable 90 elbows. haven't found any yet.
 
I think he means on the tap side. I was looking for MFL capable 90 elbows. haven't found any yet.

What would these be needed for? I did get the elbow tail pieces for the shanks.

I figured that. You don't want to remove your lines though. Any device inline to the taps is likely going to create turbulance and foaming issues.

Agreed, but that would be pretty easy to test out. Also, I doubt there would be any more disturbance caused than connecting these to a Corny disconnect or shank tail piece a lot of those are 1/4" barbs.

Why don't you want to remove the lines? I am going to have 11 taps, thinking that with 4-5' of line per tap things are going to get awfully crowded in there.
 
Has anyone thought about using Disconnects for their lines, so when not in use they can be removed? It would also make it easier to hook up their kegs outside, and than put them in? The come in valved and nonvalved, if you wish to prevent leaking.

I ran the numbers and I can outfit my 11 tap (beer lines are valved, gas is nonvalved) with everything it needs for $110...

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=84241&catid=743

I noticed that some homebrew shops sell these for about $20/set, might as well cut out the middle man, they are around $7 a set from USPlastics...

60985p.jpg

I've been thinking about getting a few of these but for the purpose of removing my co2 tank easily for when I need to attach it to my jockey box.
 
So which wires did you cut to kill the defrost? I just bought this freezer for a score of $150.
 
SavoryChef said:
So which wires did you cut to kill the defrost? I just bought this freezer for a score of $150.

You just need to determine which wire feeds the defrost timer and unplug it. If the timer is not running, it will never activate the defrost cycle.
 
JonW,

Where did you source the beverage line at $0.36/foot? (From your original price summary)
 
hoppedup75 said:
How well do taller tap handles work? Any issues with clearance?

I don't use taller tap handles, but I don't see why they wouldn't work. Personally, I don't like the weight and size of large tap handles, especially with faucets like the 425SS I have that open VERY easily.
 
You might need to get those little angled adapters to tilts the handles out away from the freezer.

http://www.kegworks.com/angle-bonnet-for-draft-beer-faucet-774-p174031

I don't trust those - but it really comes down to the handles. Look at the tap picture in the kegworks link, that is a 425SS just like I have. They take incredibly little force to open. I've seen guys post about losing a whole keg due to a tap opening. If your taps take good effort to open, then I wouldn't worry about it.

If you really want big handles, just get longer shanks when you build your system and use a collar ferrule to get the shank to protrude further from the wall. It looks better and you'll maintain the rearward slant. Something like this: http://www.kegman.net/shank-extension-8646/
 
I don't trust those - but it really comes down to the handles. Look at the tap picture in the kegworks link, that is a 425SS just like I have. They take incredibly little force to open. I've seen guys post about losing a whole keg due to a tap opening. If your taps take good effort to open, then I wouldn't worry about it.

If you really want big handles, just get longer shanks when you build your system and use a collar ferrule to get the shank to protrude further from the wall. It looks better and you'll maintain the rearward slant. Something like this: http://www.kegman.net/shank-extension-8646/

Nice, never saw those before. Definitely a better solution.
 
That's a pretty keezer - I've got a 15cf chest freezer I'm going to collar next year, but for now it does the trick. Really impressed with your build, it's clean.
 
Im so excited! i scored a freezer just like this last nigh on CL for $175!!! now I have a question. I may have missed this and if so, sorry but how did you do your drainage tray? How is it attached and does it drain from the bottom or is it removable?
 
Im so excited! i scored a freezer just like this last nigh on CL for $175!!! now I have a question. I may have missed this and if so, sorry but how did you do your drainage tray? How is it attached and does it drain from the bottom or is it removable?

I went with a nice wall mounted drip tray. Hardest part is drilling the holes perfectly so that things line up but if you are going upright freezer, I think this is the way you really need to go.

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I am putting in 3 more taps in a few weeks. Already have the shanks just need to decided on the faucets.
 
I went with a nice wall mounted drip tray. Hardest part is drilling the holes perfectly so that things line up but if you are going upright freezer, I think this is the way you really need to go.

9249451522_88c70a010b.jpg


I am putting in 3 more taps in a few weeks. Already have the shanks just need to decided on the faucets.

isn't the go to faucet the Perlick 525-SS?

whatever you decide i like the setup
 
Im so excited! i scored a freezer just like this last nigh on CL for $175!!! now I have a question. I may have missed this and if so, sorry but how did you do your drainage tray? How is it attached and does it drain from the bottom or is it removable?

Here is a pic of mine. I used threaded inserts in the wooden blocks I made to attach it to the door. It than rests on top of the block with set screws threaded into the wooden blocks and wrung butts for easy cleaning/removal.

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I am going to revisit a comment I made a few pages back. I think the fan needs to be on more than its off for these upright setups. I have my temp controller set to 1.5C which is about 35F. The carboys that I have fermenting and cold crashing are reading 44F on their sticker thermometers. My IR later thermo shows that the out side of my kegs range from 38-42 (+-2). This is actually great for me since I don't need ferm wraps to raise the temp of my fermenters but its probably causing issues with carb levels in my beer. I now see that I shouldn't set my regulators higher than 11 for normal ale styles. For those that have kegs on the top and bottom this will be more of an issue, especially if you are blocking the air vent in the back top of the unit... Just food for thought.
 
ryanhope said:
I am going to revisit a comment I made a few pages back. I think the fan needs to be on more than its off for these upright setups. I have my temp controller set to 1.5C which is about 35F. The carboys that I have fermenting and cold crashing are reading 44F on their sticker thermometers. My IR later thermo shows that the out side of my kegs range from 38-42 (+-2).

If you're fermenting in there, then yes, I completely agree with needing the fan running all the time. For just kegs though, I (and several friends with these setups) have no issues with maintaining temps.
 
If you're fermenting in there, then yes, I completely agree with needing the fan running all the time. For just kegs though, I (and several friends with these setups) have no issues with maintaining temps.

The issue is not about maintaining temps, its about the temperature gradient between the top and bottom of the unit. Maybe the more kegs you have the less of gradient there is due to the thermal mass of beer inside the kegs.
 
The issue is not about maintaining temps, its about the temperature gradient between the top and bottom of the unit. Maybe the more kegs you have the less of gradient there is due to the thermal mass of beer inside the kegs.

Yeah, I think with a full set of kegs in there the thermal mass is the key to not getting a differential. I usually keep mine pretty full.
 
Hi all. I am sourcing a freezer now for this build (genius). Are these freezers all 20 cubic feet? Are people getting away with the 17 cf model?

Thanks!
 

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