Another 'whats wrong!?' post... but please help!

Hey all,

First, let me preface by saying that I have scoured any resources that I could find to answer it myself, but to no avail... Also, I consider myself pretty green-thumbed, and have a pretty good understanding of pH, N-P-K needs and symptoms, and general pest problems.

These are all second year hops. First year they were in 20" round plastic planters. In January they were moved to 24" ceder nursery tree boxes (about 2x the soil volume). The soil is organic potting mix, compost, and some good draining mix. I live in Orange County, California and so frost is not an issue at all anymore, if ever.

Basically they all seem to be moving sooo slowly and look stunted. Some discoloration is noted, starting at the edges of the leaves, with some turning brown and dying. It almost looks like Nitrogen burning, but I'm not sure and there really isn't that hot of a mix in there. Please lend a hand if you can!!

In order of pics: Northern Brewer, Mt. Hood, Magnum, and Nugget.

("Rasta" in last pic makes a good guardian, making sure no one messes with the hops!!! - she won't mess with or eat them either, so I'm not concerned.)

Oh, and they all grew very aggressively last year - which is why I'm shocked that I don't have the beginning to a forest already this year??

Am I being to worried? To me, they should be way better than this by now...

Probably phytotoxicity. What is the new mix and the npk? Is there a lot of manure or other high salt medium? It shouldn't hurt to leach the hell out of them. I mean flood them slowly with a stream of water that runs for hours (overnight) and doesn't overflow the pot. Also does the water drain away fast? And where does it drain to? I see no drain on the bottom of that pot. You need to drain the water on the bottom of the pot sides not into the ground directly below the pot.

Thanks badbrew, I'll try that. Maybe a few times.

Anyone else?

Greetings OCBrewin,
Usually yellow/brown leaves is an indication of not enough water, or lack of nutrient that the plant has. When transplanting, one ought to immerse the plant roots in a 'plant food' solution to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
"Transplanting your rhizomes during early spring or when they have started sprouting new buds may result in shock to the plant. If you must move the plants once the roots have established, be certain the rhizome is not allowed to dry out." Taken from:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5553100_transplant-iris-rhizomes.html
Rhizomes are similar in characteristic, but this quote summed up my opinion nicely.
1.) Make sure soil is well watered and not draining too much,
2.) Check the acidity level of the soil,
3.) Check for pests.
If all else has been done, the most direct option left would be to consult a hops farmer for further advice.
My educated guess would be that the rhizomes are adapting to the new soil, and placing new roots. The yellowing of the leaves is an indication that the roots are spreading, and the rhizome is trying to draw more nutrients back into the root system from the leaves. Also, with all plants that have leaves, do not water directly on the leaves because wet leaves will burn more easily in the sun.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!~
Nerosavas

Greetings OCBrewin,
Usually yellow/brown leaves is an indication of not enough water, or lack of nutrient that the plant has. When transplanting, one ought to immerse the plant roots in a 'plant food' solution to reduce the risk of transplant shock.
"Transplanting your rhizomes during early spring or when they have started sprouting new buds may result in shock to the plant. If you must move the plants once the roots have established, be certain the rhizome is not allowed to dry out." Taken from:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5553100_transplant-iris-rhizomes.html
Rhizomes are similar in characteristic, but this quote summed up my opinion nicely.
1.) Make sure soil is well watered,
2.) Check the acidity level of the soil,
3.) Check for pests.
If all else has been done, the most direct option left would be to consult a hops farmer for further advice.
My educated guess would be that the rhizomes are adapting to the new soil, and placing new roots. The yellowing of the leaves is an indication that the roots are spreading, and the rhizome is trying to draw more nutrients back into the root system from the leaves. Also, with all plants that have leaves, do not water directly on the leaves because wet leaves will burn more easily in the sun.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!~
Nerosavas

What's that mulch on top? Partially burned wood chips? Wood robs the soil of N while decomposing, some species worse than others depending on the rate of decomp. Couldn't hurt to clean off the surface and replace with a more neutral weed stopper. Until they bounce back, maybe even go so far as to use some landscape fabric - completely neutral. Once they look healthy again, use a nitrogen-rich organic compost to help fuel their rapid growth.

Thanks wrench, I have a feeling that they might be the main culprit now that I think of them. SWMBO thought that it would look prettier if she put the mulch over them - she put some of this stuff down in other areas of the yard and had some left over. I don't think they're burnt, but probably dyed... that has to be bad...

I'm removing them as soon as I get home and leaching the soil out. Once I get the bad out, I will worry about the high vegetative Nitrogen and nutrient demands once they get going again.

Thanks again for the insight - the more opinions the better!!

Yeah, give them some time before adding anything back in. Fertilizing plants that are stressed can actually make the problem worse. And as I'm sure you know, stick with slow release and organic (fish/plant/manure based), rather than a chemical fertilizer.

Yellowing can also be a sign of over-watering, so +1 on checking the planters' drainage.

unfortunately the only thought i have goes against badbrew's suggestion: over-watering can lead to yellow leaves. how much water have the plants been getting? how is drainage?

EDIT: wrench beat me to it.

The very first thing needed here is to elevate the pots on bricks and check the drainage. If water does not run directly through then you know the answer. No N issues here, aside from phytotoxic N issues. Sometimes you can fertilize your way out of phytotoxic issue in the short run until it bites you in the ass later when the plant just up and dies from root rot/ o2 deficiency. Leaching won't hurt if the drainage is present. Over watering and leaching are not the same thing. Don't confuse the two. Over watering is running your sprinklers every day. Leaching is flooding the root zone like rain does on an occasion to rid the soil of built up salts. I'm not talking from my ass, believe it or not I know what I'm talking about.

I tried growing hops a few years ago in pots when I lived in an apartment. They did this and I'm pretty sure it directly pertained to them getting too baked in the sun (not enough water). These were first year rhizomes, not transplanted plants.

Thanks for all of the great replies. Here is what I'm doing:

1) Remove all Mulch
2) Elevate planters on bricks and drill several 1" dia. holes at bottom of side panels, all around.
3) "Leach" for several hours each planter.

See how they do!

Thanks again.

Could also be a Zinc or Boron Deficiency

The end of this book has a section on nutrient deficiencies http://ipm.wsu.edu/field/pdf/HopHandbook2009.pdf

So for an update:

I removed the mulch, drilled several 1"dia holes in the side at the bottom, and leached the soil with a steady stream of water (no overflowing) in each container for several hours each.

While they are not showing incredible signs of growth, they also haven't deteriorated any further... Any suggestions as to when they might take off again or on what else to do?

Time... its still early in the season. the ground needs to warm up a bit in socal. if they havent started growning normally by May then worrry

Thanks Steadfast, I guess I'm just a little disappointed in what has happened. Last year was year 1 and they were taking off by now it seems... It gets me down since I really feel like I have green thumb and understanding of plants' needs...

Oh well, lets hope that they get spurred on soon.

Thanks again!

By the way - nice hop field pics! It's nice to see another CA guy. I'm originally from Fallbrook - kinda your neck of the woods... kinda.

OCBrewin said:

By the way - nice hop field pics! It's nice to see another CA guy. I'm originally from Fallbrook - kinda your neck of the woods... kinda.

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right on its basically backyard...30 min away back yard, but ya. thanks for the props!

i have 8 main varieties (10 total varieties but two plants are just for me) and the only one that's starting to take off is cascade, the rest are in the same size range as yours. Its mostly variety dependent and heat , and so you know the big boys up north don't usually start training tell early May any growth that comes up before is chopped.

They probably need nutrients after the leaching assuming it leached well. A little balanced fertilizer with some iron would be a good idea.

...and so you know the big boys up north don't usually start training tell early May any growth that comes up before is chopped.

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So do you think that I should prune these first guys then? I've been wondering that, since I know that most do cut down the first shoots in early spring.... Just don't know myself.

OCBrewin said:

So do you think that I should prune these first guys then? I've been wondering that, since I know that most do cut down the first shoots in early spring.... Just don't know myself.

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Not right now. And mostly because they are 2nd year plants in planters. that's not a bad thing you've gotta do what you gotta do.. But I would train no more than 6 of the healthiest bines, and no more than 3 bines per string.
We're talking late may now and I would prune all other growth( new bines and side shoot on the bottom 1'-2' of the bine) all other growth takes away from cone development and lateral shoot growth on the upper part of the bine where cone development happens.