Switch element from 240v to 120v

I've been researching for some time on eBrewery builds and I've decided on a single vessel MLT with a RIMS tube (no HLT) so sparge water will be heated inline. I will have an electrician help me (once I find one) but I want to make sure I get all the necessary parts first.

I'm sure this has been answered somewhere but I can't see to find it.

My question is how does one switch an element from 240v to 120v with the simple flip of a switch? I plan to run a 5500w ULD element in a RIMS tube at 120v when recirculating the mash. When it's time to mashout I will flip the element to 240v to heat the sparge water inline as mentioned. I've seen the idea discussed (which is where I got it in the first place) but I haven't seen it done or how to do it.

I will control the element with a PID controller which I think should be Auber 1/4 DIN PID Temperature Controller.

Any help is greatly appreciated! All of my inspiration comes from this forum and I have to say you guys are geniuses!!

Thanks!

Check out Quaffer's schematic:

http://jansson.us/Brewing/ControlPanel_1_2.pdf

Relay RE4 is a single pole double throw relay which selects between a hot leg and neutral depending on the position of the "rims power switch". For your application, you could replace the relay with a single pole double throw switch, as long as it's rated for the load.

If you are using the auber controller, there isn't any need to switch the voltage.

onthekeg said:

If you are using the auber controller, there isn't any need to switch the voltage.

Click to expand...

Actually there is, if there's any concern for scorching if you don't have adequate flow, especially in a rims system.

I posted a simple diagram on how I do it using two different contactors per element here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f16/contactors-e-brew-heating-elements-273489/index8.html#post4026977

Just use an On/Off/On switch to select the contactor and jumper the outputs from the contactors to the outlets.

Okay if you like to do it that way go ahead. There really isn't an issue with a ULWD element. Glad it works for you! Do you still have temp control then, or just voltage control? Why bother with the PID then? The PID is what controls the temp.

I prefer recirculating during the mash at 110v because it still holds its temp just fine and if anything happens to the flow or I forget to hit a switch it doesn't immediately turn my rims into a boiler. I use a 5500w element though so I can sparge on demand, so it might be a bit different for my system.