Amylase Extract or Did I ruin my brew? part 183

How much should I use in a 5 gal fermenter. I didn't think about it and added the entire 2 T packet from the HBS. It caused a bunch of activity! Next morning it is mellow with a head of fine bubbles that remain.

My FG is at 1.022 for 3 batches.

I assumed and I hope that this was sold in 2T quantities because it is for a 5 gal batch.

If I used to much, I added it at midnight last night. How should I/can I stop its effect on beer? Switch to secondary?

Thanks

I've never used it, so I don't quite know what to tell you. Racking will not stop activity, though. The amylase will keep going until it poops out on its own or until you denature it with heat.


TL

Why are you using Amylase Extract? What are you trying to do with it? Low carb beer???

I have played with it a few times trying to get barleywines down in gravity but you didn't list O.G.

as far as quantity I think it's 1 tsp per 20 bbl. that's about a half a drop per 5 gallons, did you add it to the mash or fermenter?

1 - it is a powder not a liquid (1 drop?)

2 - multiple posts tell that this is a way to lower FG

3 - SG was 1.062, FG was 1.022 after 2 weeks

4 - 1 t per bbl (Barrel?)

I think what the others are trying to say is that amylase enzyme is not always the best way to combat a stuck fermentation. People worry about it continuing to break down starches indefinitely.

OK, but I still don't know if 2T is way overkill, and I have 2 other 5 gal carboys also at 1.022. Most every extract kit I brew ends at 1.022. There is a entire post full of others, and the only suggestion that seems to work is Amy.

I just need to get some advice on a proper amount to add.

Yeah, I've never used it either. I don't think there's any way to stop it now. Are you oxygenating/aerating your wort prior to fermentation? Are you sure you're pitching enough yeast? If you're brewing extract kits, then your problem should not be lack of converted sugars, unless you're using some half-rate low-fermentable extract like Laaglander. I've had plenty of stuck ferments in my day, and the best way to unstick them is to pour the wort onto a healthy yeast cake from a recent batch. This isn't always an option, I know, so you just need to make a healthy starter and hope for the best. Also, if you're not aerating your wort, then you're asking for trouble.

Tweaker said:

OK, but I still don't know if 2T is way overkill, and I have 2 other 5 gal carboys also at 1.022. Most every extract kit I brew ends at 1.022. There is a entire post full of others, and the only suggestion that seems to work is Amy.

I just need to get some advice on a proper amount to add.

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I have used it in the form of Beano and its a liquid. It only takes a drop but I use it in the mash. I would assume 2T is way too much but what can you do about it now. You should have researched it before adding it not after.

I made the mistake of trying something new at midnight and poured the whole 2T in the carboy. I for some reason thought that the fact that it was sold in a small packet like that meant it was for a 5 gal batch. DOH! I thought something was wrong when the reaction was so active when I poured it in.

I have been aerating the feces out of my brews for a while now, same FGs.

Perhaps I should be using more than one yeast pack. I have been adding Brew Vint alc boost to brews (SG 1.055-1.065) I considered using the spare std muntons yeast packs in addition to the Safale's I have been substituing. I did not because I thought the two different yeasts would produce a wacky flavor.

I will make starters from now on.

Tell me if this is not how it should be done

1 use DME to make a small 1.040 wort
add yeast
after a while, place in fridge until carboy is ready.

i would time the starter so you can pitch the whole thing in at high krausen. putting it in the fridge drops the yeast out of suspension so you can decant the liquid but it also causes the yeast to go dormant, which is not something you want when trying to drop those last few points out of a beer.

for what it's worth, most advice i've heard about amylase enzyme and beano is that it should be added pre-boil (in the mash for all grain) so that the enzymes are denatured before you add the yeast. i don't know of any way to kill one without killing the other.

edit: actually, most of the advice i've heard is that it's best to find other ways to affect the fermentability of your wort. but if you do use it, pre-boil is the way to go. so i hear.

Most will tell you that making a starter with dry yeast is a bad idea. You should do a little research around here about that. Which yeast are you using that you are having trouble with? Every batch I have done with dry yeast has attenuated very well. I've heard bad things about the Munton's yeast, but the one time I used it, it worked fine.

irunxcjm said:

Most will tell you that making a starter with dry yeast is a bad idea. You should do a little research around here about that. Which yeast are you using that you are having trouble with? Every batch I have done with dry yeast has attenuated very well. I've heard bad things about the Munton's yeast, but the one time I used it, it worked fine.

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+1 don't make a starter with dry yeast. I all ways think its a bad idea to jump into something because it sounds like a good idea at midnight. Do your research....

Well, the results are not yet in, but it seems I did not poke the puppy.

The LHBS says the recommended dose of Amyl for a 5 gal batch is 3 T or 1.5 Oz. I used 2T. It would seem I actually underused it.

I would use it in the boil, but as its purpose is to help lower FG, how would I know if this was going to be an issue? I guess I will just do it everytime. Only 1 of 4 brews this time went below the magic 1.020.

Message received, I will not make a starter with dry yeast.

I have been using different varieties of Safale yeast. The problem may be that I am adding additional sugars to boost ABV to >4%. I will try doubling the Safale to two per brew.

King Cascade, I know it was dumb, but please stop the virtual pants down spankings. I was sober ya know.

Putting enzymes in the boil is pointless. They will immediately denature. In fact, using that product in an extract batch is probably not the best solution for any of your problems.

Don't use more yeast, just treat it more kindly. Rehydrate dry yeast for at least 15 minutes in clean, room temperature water. Aerate the wort after cooling it. Pitch when the wort temperature is at or slightly below the desired fermentation temperature.

I routinely get over 5% ABV with Safale strains with very little effort (and often without even aerating the wort...but that's a separate discussion).

Yuri, I will take your advice and run with it.

What do you usually start at (OG) to get 5%?

Ok, now I am totally at a loss. I added 2T of Amylase extract. It self-churned and I did not stir it so I would not introduce O2.

It has been 5 days or more, and FG remains at the same reading of 1.022. I don't know why this had no effect.

For a 5% beer, start around 1.050.

To solve this batch's problem, first tell us the recipe.

Recipe
True Brew Extract Kit

2 cans unhopped Wheat LME 1.5 lb UK
Windsor yeast
1 Brew vint Add pack

brewed 10.19
FG 11.3 = 1.023
added 2T amylase, no agitation
11.7 FG = 1.022, aerated with drill

I don't know what to do, but I intend to rehydrate my dry yeasts from now on.

Here is a great tool for us brewers.

Pitching rate calculator.

Mr Malty Pitching Rate Calculator

Good luck

Amylase will have little to no positive effect on an all extract brew. The extract you used is highly fermentable and contains enough unfermentable content to add a bit of light body to your beer. Breaking down the remaining unfermentables will only serve to make your beer watery and dry (assuming the yeast are healthy).

I'm guessing the yeast was old. Those kits often sit on the shelf for a long time, and the yeast slowly lose their "potency." The corrective action was to add another packet of fresh Windsor yeast. No amount of enzymes or stirring would help. Aerating a 1.022 beer will almost certainly make it stale, resulting in cardboard-like off flavors. This batch may be beyond hope. Taste it. If it tastes good, just bottle it and hope for the best. If not, I'm afraid there's nothing else to do but dump it.

I should have said, stir or mix rather than aerate. My goal was not to introduce air, and I think I was successful.

I went ahead and bottled it, only spending $ for the caps and the time. Most of my beers don't taste good at this point, but come out great later.

Thanks for the advice, and I will see what happens.

Quite a pisser that I did not catch that Amylase is for anything but extract brewers like me.

The only alpha amylase concentrate I've used says 1T per 5 gallons, so 2T wouldn't hurt. It will no do a total breakdown on the malt, plus it isn't all that active at room temperature. There are "starch blockers" on the market that will de-nature alpha amylase in a matter of minutes.

Beano, alpha galactosidase, will breakdown everything. The only way to stop it is to heat the beer to 136F for 30 minutes.