Kegerator or keezer project

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SCBrewster

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Thinking about building either a kegerator or a keezer. Haven't really decided which. I really think I only want/ need 2 taps but if I do the keezer I would have the option to expand. I would also like to build a cabinet around it to make it look nice. Any idea what this will run me?
 
If your not in a hurry I did mine for under a grand

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I actually just finished my 2 tap keezer. You can probably do it for under $500 depending on how you want it to look and what you have. I did it all myself and was a NOOB at it, but it turned out nice. You can get a CL freezer for under $100 and the inside equipment for $250 (depending on your choices and CO2 size (got mine CL too)). Then its adding a collar, insulating, and installing a temperature controller. Easily done under $500. I ended up making a fermentor with another freezer and matched it to the keezer.

keezer.jpg
 
did mine, link in signature, for about $400 with a craigslist purchased freezer for $50.
 
I am thinking about doing something in between the two. I like the bar like set up but definitely only need 2 taps and one would probably be fine but I'd rather have two. I like the tile backsplash and that whole set up. Also like the chalkboard paint!. Well if I can do it under $500 that would be awesome!
 
Soooo ready to start kegging though. So over bottle conditioning and waiting forever
 
If you go the keezer route and decide to build a cabinet to encase the entire thing, you're going to spend more money than you plan on, at least that's been my experience with my 2 keezer builds (in the middle of my second build now). IF you only want two taps why not just go with a simple kegerator, you can do that for much cheaper than a fully encased keezer. Bottom line, is if you're starting from scratch, you're going to drop some coin...

kegs - $40-$50 each

faucets - $40 or so each if you go with Perlicks or something similar... you do get what you pay for when it comes to faucets, the cheaper faucets will get sticky if they sit for a while without being used, then after you get the shanks, nipples, beer line, disconnects, etc you're going to spend at least another $20 per tap, probably more. So you're already close to $250 and still need a C02 tank, which can be found on CL if you're lucky, and then you need the freezer or fridge. So now you're over $350, and if you decide you want to build a cabinet you have to factor in lumber, casters, screws, stain, sandpaper, etc....
 
I agree with Jersh, all the little things that it takes to build a keezer add up quickly. I even broke down the cost of my brothers keezer for him so he would realize the amount of cash it took. It ended up being around $850 for materials and that's with some second hand parts and cheap faucets.

After a couple of weeks the cheap faucets began sticking so he upgraded to perlicks. I would recommend starting with those so you don't have to buy faucets twice.

Good luck on the build
 
Wow that does sound pricey. Maybe I will just go for the simple kegerator and then if I end up building a bar someday encase the kegerator in the bar and then run the towers up through. That might be the best option overall especially since i really don't have a ton of room for a huge bar at this time
 
Be careful many keezers have been killed by improperly casing them in wood. Freezers dissapate heat on the outside walls, different than a fridge. Wood is a fairly good insulator, if there isn't sufficient air flow around the outside freezer walls its days are numbered.
 
I was just going to ask that actually about encasing them. What about encasing a kegerator?
 
Here's a cost breakdown for this bad boy, but I got the thermostat and freezer for free:

Keezer
Perlick Taps $100
Regular Tap, regulator, startup kit $90
15# co2 tank $110
tubing $20
Ball Locks $20
Clamps $5
Secondary Regulator $40

Total For Keezer $385

Yeah...my penmanship is the worst!

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Thats pretty solid! Give or take with the thermostat it'd prolly be another 150?
 
I was just going to ask that actually about encasing them. What about encasing a kegerator?

Depends on where it exchanges heat, however refacing a kegerator's doors usually isn't an issue as long as you don't mess with the bottom vent where the coils are (anything under the bottom door).
 
ClemsonDV said:
I actually just finished my 2 tap keezer. You can probably do it for under $500 depending on how you want it to look and what you have. I did it all myself and was a NOOB at it, but it turned out nice. You can get a CL freezer for under $100 and the inside equipment for $250 (depending on your choices and CO2 size (got mine CL too)). Then its adding a collar, insulating, and installing a temperature controller. Easily done under $500. I ended up making a fermentor with another freezer and matched it to the keezer.

Which temp controller is that? How did you wire it up?
 
What do y'all think about an encasement for a kegerator with the door paint chalkboard then a wooden tower with a penny back splash instead of tiles then maybe pennies on the top surface or maybe just wood then a drip tray
 
I could only find it in 2-part 1/2 gallon can to mix 1 gallon at about $100.00, I built my 20cuft. 12 tap including 2 nitro stout taps for less then $1000.00 New chest freezer, 425 perlicks, including 2- three gallon kegs and 14 five gallon kegs, and 9 regulators.
 
That sounds awesome! But waaaayyyy of my league and a "my wife would kill me" type of thing lol
 
Yeah I think mine will end up being spanned over a decent period if time as well because we are in an apt right now and I don't have a lot of tools handy. But I think I am going to start searching for used stuff. Did you get used faucets too?
 
Would anybody recommend getting a kegerator conversion kit to do this? Or is it cheaper/better to build it piece by piece with used parts?
 
Got all of my faucets used off of e-bay 12 425 perlicks and 2 stout style faucets 1 Taprite and the other a Caffreys Irish Ale over time total cost $108.34 with shipping if you watch you can find deals works best when your not in a hurry but have the money ready to buy when you do find the deals
 
I guess I still need to do research because I do not know what types of faucets or connectors or regulators or anything that I need
 
I was around $1500 - You can see the price breakdown here - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/jeebass-3-phase-keezer-project-240063/#post4113262

But I didn't wait for sales or any of that. And I did not do it over a long period - maybe a month and a half - just on the weekends. Also it was my first woodworking project ever - so I had to buy tools - which are NOT included in the price.

That being said, its doable for much less you just have to be patient.

I concur with purplehaze on the faucets - go with Perlicks the first time around.
 
If I buy a set up for a single tap system is it easily convertible to a double? Or should I just buy all the stuff for double upfront?
 
Got all of my faucets used off of e-bay 12 415 perlicks and 2 stout style faucets 1 Taprite and the other a Caffreys Irish Ale over time total cost $108.34 with shipping if you watch you can find deals works best when your not in a hurry but have the money ready to buy when you do find the deals

I just saw this now. Not sure what the Perlick 415 is but I spent $121.96 on 4 Perlick 525 SS ($30.49 a pop). You're saying you got 12 perlicks and and two stout faucets for $108? Even if that was just for the Perlicks thats $9 per faucet. Someone must have lad a lapse in sanity to sell them that low.

If I buy a set up for a single tap system is it easily convertible to a double? Or should I just buy all the stuff for double upfront?

It depends. If you do a mini fridge conversion than you are gonna be limited on the configuration of the tower. If you do a collared keezer, then the sky's the limit as you can always drill more holes. The same can kinda be said for coffin builds, but it depends on how wide you make the coffin box. But I guess thats more a design consideration than what equipment to buy.

As far as equipment I would drop the extra $20-30 and get a dual body regulator over a single body regulator - this is more for wanting to serve at two different pressures or have one for force carbing at 30 PSi and another for serving at 12 PSI, etc. Then you buy whatever manifold you need to scale up to different numbers of taps.

Bear in mind that you are need a faucet, shank, tailpiece / beernut hose and beer and gas QDs for each additional line. A good idea is to understand what goes into the assembly of the system and then plan out what you are going to need rather than just buying a "X Faucet Conversion Kit"
 
Ok so for a double tap kegerator I need a 5lb co2 tank. 2 regulators 2 5 gallon kegs. Gas lines from the tank to the keg. Beer lines from each of the kegs. 2 taps. Anything else? Obviously the mini fridge. How tough is it to build a draft tower? Seems you could make it out of almost anything for waaaayyyy cheaper
 
Ok so for a double tap kegerator I need a 5lb co2 tank. 2 regulators 2 5 gallon kegs. Gas lines from the tank to the keg. Beer lines from each of the kegs. 2 taps. Anything else? Obviously the mini fridge. How tough is it to build a draft tower? Seems you could make it out of almost anything for waaaayyyy cheaper

You don't need two regulators, you either need:

A normal one body regulator

tapriteMFL.jpg


and a two way gas manifold / air distributor

2waySITE.jpg


OR a Two body regulator

tapritedualbodyUSA.jpg


Then you need

Gas line

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Beer line

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Quick disconnects (one for each line) for gas side of the corney kegs

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Quick disconnects (one for each line) for beer side of the corney kegs

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Swivel nuts (the barb goes onto the hose, the other end screws onto the MFL part of the QD - this allows for easy removal of hose from the QDs, you can skip this by just doing barb style disconnects)

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And Oetiker clamps to clamp everything down

oetikerclamp.jpg


People have made their own draft towers out of PVC / wood, then you would need to source the parts for the tower faucet assembly yourself (I am not familiar with this)

I hope this helps!
 
This one has 5/16 OD x 3/16 ID x 1/4 mfl no more clamps you push it in til it stops to remove you push the grey ring to the body and pull (John Guest) push-lock fittings

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