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CoalCracker

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Location
Macungie, Pa
Well after having a nice setup capable of 15 gallon batches. I decided to go a bit larger but able to still brew 20 gallons. I have a friend that brews with me and we split the batch. I ordered the steel and started welding it up on Monday.

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Here is one side of it. Still have one piece to weld to it at that point. Last night I did some more work and got the second side welded up and the connection pieces welded to one side. I ran out of steel so I had to order more. Won't have more progress until next wednesday on that.

Control Panel:

12x10x6 Enlcosure.
Ebrewsupply 30a 2 PID kit
2x Auber 2352 PID
Thermocouples (Still needed)

I am going to start wiring that up this weekend. Pictures to follow.

Kettles:
BK-42g Stainless Barrel that I am going to have Triclamps welded to.
MT- 30g Brewers hardware kettle
HLT- 30g Brewers hardware kettle with some custom fittings. All tri clamp

I"ll have pictures of all the kettles once they arrive. Should be next week.

This will be a HERMS setup. More to follow!:ban:
 
Got a bit more done over the weekend on the brewery. Ran out of steel so I was working on the control panel. Here is the progress.
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Also received my new Boil Kettle. 42g from Bubbas Barrels. I underestimated the size of this behemoth!
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More steel should be here tomorrow. Then I can continue to work on the stand. I also ordered nylon bushings for my tippy dump design. I am going to have the whole platform tip forward instead of everything swinging like a pendulum. Will take a bit of strength to dump so there won't be any accidents.
 
Got some more done on the control panel. Got the rest of the holes cut, painted it, and installed the lights and switches. A bit worried about the fitment of everything in this panel. Going to be tight.

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Thanks! I should have some more updates tonight on the stand itself. I should be taking delivery of more steel tonight.

MT and HLT should be here Friday! :ban:
 
Yea worth the money and time waiting for them! Can't wait to use them now!! Will still be a bit, Hoping to complete the welding on the stand tonight. Then tomorrow morning finish cleaning up the welds and possibly some primer. That might be a bit ambitious but we will see.
 
Holy crap! Just found your build thread! Nice man!

Stout kettles?

I should be able to ship those rings on Monday. PM me your address.

Cheers!
 
Thanks everyone! It's coming along nicely. The kettles are from brewers hardware. They took about 3 weeks to get here.

I should have more updates either tonight or tomorrow. Dd some more work on the control panel and stand. At a wedding right now.
 
Added the heatsink to the control panel and tightened down some of the lights and what not. I handed off to my electrician BIL to wire up. I could do it, but since he's at my disposal, why not use him.
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Also, here is where I stand... with the stand.
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Just won an auction on ebay for a little giant pump. 120 shipped! Hoping to finish the stand this week and get it primed and painted. I'm heading the the finger lakes at the end of the week for a few days. That should give the paint some time to cure up.
 
Currently looking for a welder to weld some tri clovers into the barrel. Also need one installed in the HLT. It was requested at the time of purchase but they must have missed it. I could do a heatstick but would prefer it mounted.
 
Wow, can't believe more people aren't commenting and following along..

I'll be away for the weekend so no updates until probably Monday evening. Had to order a new saw blade to cut a few more pieces of steel for the tippy dump. I have a friend that said he would teach me how to TIG weld so depending on how my welds look, I may tackle the tri clovers on the barrel.
 
Your hoops are inbound! PM'd you tracking infos.

That's a nice looking panel! TIG isn't nearly as hard as they make it sound. I bought a Lincoln this summer and have built a welding table so far. It's not bad at all on mild steel. Stainless isn't any harder. The difficult part of welding on the pots is going to be the thickness of the steel. My local welding shop warned me about distortion and to make small welds and go slow.

Hit up your local welding shop for some 18 gauge stainless scrap and a chunk of tubing. Then you can practice your thin-wall kung foo on something that didn't cost you $300+ :rockin:

Keep up the posts!
 
SweetSounds: Hoops look to be coming tonight. I'll be working on getting them going tomorrow evening. I worked a bit more on the stand last night. Got the welding complete, and the welds ground down. Received my pump (LG 3MD) It's quite a bit larger than the March pumps and way heavier. I'll be placing an order shortly to start constructing the site glasses for the HLT and BK.

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I'm trying to decide whether I want to pivot the MT on a pillow block bearing or just let it sit on the frame and keep it in place with a retainer of some sort. Also, what size pipe should I use for the pivot? Minor details I have to iron out yet.
 
Looks good!
UPS shows out for delivery :ban:

As for pipe size, it really shouldn't matter because the full MT isn't going to be that heavy (In a mild steel rated sheer-load kinda way). I wouldn't use pillow blocks though - If you think about it, when you pivot the heavy MT on the pipes in pillow blocks, it will put a heavy tangential load on the hoop the pipe is welded to because the bearing will rotate down and allow it to sag. Maybe I just worry too much. But I think a fixed bearing would hold the pipe/hoop perfectly perpendicular to the pot and reduce stress on the entire assembly.

Hell, even a chunk of angle iron welded in a "V" configuration (Saddle?) should work
 
So if I understand it right, the pillow blocks don't rotate on a central axis but more of an oval? This would cause the sag? Thought it was just a basic bearing in a mount with some set screws.

No - The bearing rotates as a bearing should. The oval is simply a "Cam" like way of binding the shaft to the bearing. However, the entire bearing is able to rotate in 2 axes inside of the pillow block.
Since the hoop is 2" by 1/8" mild steel, I can see that "twisting" load on the hoop causing problems.

If the bearing is fixed in a perpendicular fashion in relation to the MLT, there is no twisting load on the hoops and MLT.

A quick drawing, because I'm doing a terrible job of explaining this :drunk:

PillowBlocks.jpg
 
Gotcha, How about making the shaft a hair longer and then adding a collar on the outside to essentially "lock" the bearing in place?
 
Gotcha, How about making the shaft a hair longer and then adding a collar on the outside to essentially "lock" the bearing in place?

The problem isn't locking the shaft into the bearing. The bearing has either an eccentric cam (The oval you refer to) or a set screw. The problem is that the pillow block will allow the weight of the MLT to "sag" the bearing inside the pillow block. This will cause your hoop to twist vertically on the MLT and that's bad.

What I'm saying, is that the hoop will not have enough resistance to that "Twist" to hold the shaft perpendicular to the MLT, because the bearing will allow that degree of motion.

If the bearing is fixed with relation to the shaft (Still able to rotate on the tippy axis, but not on the sagging hoop axis) you won't have that problem because the bearing will take all of that load.

Here's a really crappy pic of a pillow block "Out of alignment" if you will...

Pillow Block.jpg
 
wow ok, now I see. Not sure why that was so hard for me to grasp... Looks like a fixed V might be a better choice. Was just looking to make the operation of tipping it smooth and not so much metal on metal.
 
Either that or put 2 pillow blocks per side. That would force it to remain parallel with the stand. Use 1/2" id bearings and shaft - they are cheap as hell at harbor freight
 
Let me see if I understand this. You want to use 1 pillow block to tip the tun for cleaning? So it would be canitlevered like in the drawing?
 
Yea the plan was to put a pillow block on both sides to aid in tipping the MT.

Well, then you shouldn't have a problem so long as it's on a solid axle. You might have to buy a precision ground shaft to use if you can't find one that is a thousandth under sized or if you have a machinist buddy, have them make one for you.
 
It won't be solid, it will be modeled after the morebeer design where there is a shaft welded to each side of the ring the supports the kettle.
 
Who's idea was it to make a tippy dump on this thing?!?!?! ME!! I'm going to kick my own @ss soon for being an idiot. This part is taking me longer than it did to weld the whole stand!! What a PITA!

I'll be out of town all weekend. I'lll have more updates on Monday evening.
 
CoalCracker said:
Who's idea was it to make a tippy dump on this thing?!?!?! ME!! I'm going to kick my own @ss soon for being an idiot. This part is taking me longer than it did to weld the whole stand!! What a PITA!

I'll be out of town all weekend. I'lll have more updates on Monday evening.

Yeah, bet it is a headache, but once it is done and you are several batches in I imagine you will be glad you did it. I know I would not enjoy manually scooping out 1 barrels worth of spent grains from one of those kettles.

Keep us posted, this is a pretty cool build and I would like to see how it all goes.

Good luck!
John
 
I am in the same boat: trying to design a tippy for a 42 gal barrel mash, so I will be following with interest
 
Not a whole lot to report. However my Brother in law mentioned he thinks the panel is too small to fit everything in. So... I am running the idea off him of running a sub panel to put the contactors in. If that doesn't work, I need to redo the control panel... ;-(
 
haha it would be. However I'm trying to stop the bleedout of money on this project! Going to see if I can do a subpanel with the contactors in.
 
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