OK, I might try this today. Shaving an extra hour out of the process would be nice at times.
So if doing this with a RIMS. One I drain the MLT and add the sparge water How long ahould I recirclate beofre draining the sparge water?
Batch Sparge question
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OK, I might try this today. Shaving an extra hour out of the process would be nice at times.
So if doing this with a RIMS. One I drain the MLT and add the sparge water How long ahould I recirclate beofre draining the sparge water?
atl_sud
Active Member
Recirculate until it runs clear. Then let 'er rip.:rockin:
OK, I think I am going to do this on my next batch.
Sometimes I like the Zen of long fly sparge, but right now I've been feeling time crunched.
Decided to change my manifold somewhat (adding a a x to the circle for more flow). So once again BD has been delayed.
On a side note I finally found some high grade HCL acid so I can finally mash a low srm beer properly.
Sometimes I like the Zen of long fly sparge, but right now I've been feeling time crunched.
Decided to change my manifold somewhat (adding a a x to the circle for more flow). So once again BD has been delayed.
On a side note I finally found some high grade HCL acid so I can finally mash a low srm beer properly.
So this is slightly off topic, but since we have tried to clear up Palmer's ambiguity...are the gallon additions of mash water necessary to prevent 'thermal shock'? Also, is 165 the hottest water one should use to mash in? I have always poured the water straight in and adjusted if necessary with good results, but Palmer made me nervous.
There is an argument that you will get better efficiency. But I think that has been debunked as so many on HBT get high efficiency with a quick drop of the sparge.
As for a fly sparge though, you really do wanna slow sparge. 60 minutes at least.
This is why I am considering batch sparging some brews. The time savings.
Personally I have to wonder though about batch sparging a high OG beer. Are you all still getting a consistent efficiency when you batch sparge a high OG beer?
As for a fly sparge though, you really do wanna slow sparge. 60 minutes at least.
This is why I am considering batch sparging some brews. The time savings.
Personally I have to wonder though about batch sparging a high OG beer. Are you all still getting a consistent efficiency when you batch sparge a high OG beer?
usurpers26
Well-Known Member
yes, BUT I get a consistently *lower* efficiency 
Usually around 10% lower for ~20* P or above.
Usually around 10% lower for ~20* P or above.
Nope, has nothing to do with "thermal shock", whatever the heck that is! It's to equalize the runnings and get a _slight_ boost in efficiency. You can use water of whatever temp you like. It's commonly cited that you don't want the grain to get above 170, but if your pH is in line that's less important.
Up to about 1.080ish, it consistent. After that (on my system), you either need to accept a lower efficieny or run more water through the mash and boil longer.
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