What is the strongest mead someone has made?

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18% ABV is pushing it for essentially all available yeast strains. That equates to an OG of 1.140 (which is very stressful on yeast) and an FG of 1.000.
 
Highest OG for me has been 1.164... At last reading, it was at 18% ABV, but that was over a month ago, I plan to take another reading in a month or two... :rockin: I used Lalvin EC-1118 in those batches (made two, one 3 gallon and one 5 gallon).

I'm thinking about making another batch in the fall and use Eau De Vie yeast, and push it to it's limit (21%) :drunk:... Of course, I'm also planning on a more modest batch in the 16-18% range. :D
 
I'm daydreaming about making a Poltorak, or Polish Royal Mead, that'd be 4 gal honey for a 6 gal batch. Plan on using that for my daughter's 21st birthday (she's 2 months now) and every fifth wedding anniversary for me and SWMBO. :) Of course it'll be some time before I can spend that much money on a single batch. If I'm reading the Gotmead calculator correct that'll have a SG of 1.286 and a potential ABV of of 32.25%. Now if only I could find some super yeast...
 
I have a Juniper-Simcoe metheglin fermenting right now with Vierka Sherry yeast, og was about 1.130, i'm expecting it to finish somewhat sweet, but the alcohol ought to approach 16%
 
Not at all. The difference between the OG & the FG determines alcohol content, while the FG determines the amount of sugars left over. You could have a dry mead, with a low ABV. Or a sweet mead, with a high ABV.
 
Not at all. The difference between the OG & the FG determines alcohol content, while the FG determines the amount of sugars left over. You could have a dry mead, with a low ABV. Or a sweet mead, with a high ABV.

Like my traditional batches... Last SG reading put it about 1.026, but that was a couple of months back... I need to check them again, but I don't expect them to get much lower than 1.020... That puts it in the sweet/desert range... Strong enough for you to take notice, but not so dry that you'll have trouble drinking it. :tank:
 
Well I had it all wrong. I thought the specific gravity directly related to alcohol content. Haha, I have a lot to learn
 
Well, it does.

Say the Starting Gravity (SG) is 1.080 & the Final Gravity (FG) is 1.000, that would make it 10.74% and fairly dry (because of the FG being 1.000). Now say that the Starting Gravity is 1.120 & the Final Gravity is 1.015, that would make it 13.78% but fairly sweet (because of the FG being 1.015).

It's the amount of sugars left over after it's done fermenting that determines sweetness, while it's the difference between the amount of sugar you start with & the amount you finish with that determines ABV.
 
Typically, the higher the ABV the longer it will need to age. But, that can sometimes be offset by a higher FG. So, a batch that's at 18% ABV, but has a FG of around 1.020 should be easier to drink, sooner, than a 16% ABV batch that finished at .998... Of course, it will depend on other factors, like the yeast used, honey used, and such. This is yet another time when you need to sample before you decide what to do with it. Be that aging, back sweetening, both, or even other options...

It's all part of the fun. :ban:
 
I'm daydreaming about making a Poltorak, or Polish Royal Mead, that'd be 4 gal honey for a 6 gal batch. Plan on using that for my daughter's 21st birthday (she's 2 months now) and every fifth wedding anniversary for me and SWMBO. :) Of course it'll be some time before I can spend that much money on a single batch. If I'm reading the Gotmead calculator correct that'll have a SG of 1.286 and a potential ABV of of 32.25%. Now if only I could find some super yeast...

Well this put me in mind of perhaps pitching a 2nd yeast. If you started with a typical mead yeast, and then switched when it got up to about 15% (or more) to a distiller's alcohol. I looked one (or several up) Midwest lists one that I saw that could get to 21%. If you played with that a little you might was and force it higher - Sam Adam's monster beer goes to 28% on just yeast I think.

Just looked at Austin and they have a distillers that can go to 23%... So it looks like the mead might make it... btw, on the $$$ issue, you just need the honey by the bucket :)

So thinking the 4 gal on honey on 6 gallons of must, that might not have enough liquid to go. Basically just like salt drys out slugs, LME and Honey have to much sugar and to little water that they dehydrate bacteria - osmosis will draw the water out of the yeast and kill it. There might be a way of doing this but I'm not sure.
 
99% sure the SA brew is using a proprietary yeast...

I know that the Wyeast Eau De Vie strain is rated for 21%... You MIGHT be able to get it to go higher if you make the original must with a lower OG, then add more honey as it ferments... Plus, putting it towards the warmer end of it's temperature range could get it to ferment higher.

Just be aware, that if you go down that road, you're probably looking at something that will need to age for at least several months, if not years, before it's good to drink... Unless you enjoy drinking lighter fluid.
 
My plan was to start a six gallon batch, 2 honey 4 water. Then, rack half of it onto three gal honey and the other half into one gallon bottles to play with. Even with only 2 gal honey in the batch, fermenting to dry should give +18% ABV.
 
My plan was to start a six gallon batch, 2 honey 4 water. Then, rack half of it onto three gal honey and the other half into one gallon bottles to play with. Even with only 2 gal honey in the batch, fermenting to dry should give +18% ABV.

24# of honey in a 6 gallon batch size... You should get an OG of about 1.144... So it really depends on which yeast you select, and where it finishes, for the ABV%... I would start with no more than 20# of honey, and keep the water to the same level. That way, IF you add more honey, you'll increase the gravity as well as volume...

Keep in mind 1 gallon of honey is typically 12#...

I would also plan on leaving it in bulk form for at LEAST 6-9 months before you split it off into tiny batches. Especially at ~18% ABV... Chances are, it will need a solid month (or two) to actually reach the FG. Then you'll want to let it bulk age to get to a decent point. If you break it up too soon, it will take each part longer to age out any off flavors, or hot flavors that develop...

BTW, "dry" for mead is usually into the range of .990-.998... With 24# of honey, you could hit over 19% if it does that. Better to add most of the honey, reserving the rest, adding it later than put it all in at once and not hit your target (due to the OG being too high)...

In my traditional batches, I had intended to get to ~1.015 for the FG... I used more honey than I should have, so there's a very high chance it won't get there. It's also far easier to add a bit more honey towards the end, to get more ABV, than to try and get fermentation to kick off again, once it's hit ~18% (with another yeast)...

BTW, what yeast were you planning on using?
 
I know that the Wyeast Eau De Vie strain is rated for 21%... You MIGHT be able to get it to go higher if you make the original must with a lower OG, then add more honey as it ferments... Plus, putting it towards the warmer end of it's temperature range could get it to ferment higher.

I don't know about moving it to the high end of the temp range. I have a cyser going with Wyeast 3333 - German Wheat. The yeast has an attenuation of 70-76%, alcohol tolerance of 10%, and temp range of 63-75F. I chose the yeast because I wanted the apple to carry through along with some clove phenolics, and I wanted it to finish a bit sweet, so I aimed for 1.100 SG. I used 1 Gal Cider, 1.5 lbs Clover Honey, and about 4 oz. lavender honey to hit the 1.100. Put 1 gallon in the fermenter, the remainder in the refrigerator for top-off. Started this on 20 Feb, racked it (2nd racking) Saturday. SG was 1.026 at 1st racking (about where I thought it would finish), but down to 1.004 at this racking, and still bubbling (slowly, but bubbling). By my calcs that puts it at 13% abv and 96% attenuation. The fermenter has been in a cooler room in my house, ambient probably 64-68F, depending on outside temp, definitely at the lower range of the yeast's tolerance.

I think a higher temp will stress the yeast more, and the rapidly rising abv will do it in, but running it along at a lower temp has apparently let it get acclimated to the slowly rising abv, and continue to work longer. I'm not a yeast scientist by any means, just my observations.
 
Temperature reactions, I think, is just another way that wine yeasts differ from beer yeasts... For anything other than beer, I use Lalvin yeast.

I typically aim for the middle of the yeast's happy [temperature] range, or pick a yeast that will be good/great with the temperature it will be left at. That's really easy to do with most of the Lalvin yeasts...Especially with EC-1118, K1V-1116 and 71B-1122... D47 has a smaller range of temperatures it does best at, but still within what I can give it.

I'm not 100% sure I'll go for something above 18% ABV at this point... Knowing that I could, though, makes it very tempting. I could use Wyeast' Eau De Vie pretty much anytime of the year, except the middle of summer, without issue... It's listed temperature range is 65-80... So from about October through May/June, I could use it... After that, I'd need to have it off-site (where the fermentation room is closer to 66F year round)...

Next place I move to, I plan on making sure it's large enough so that I can have a fermentation chamber, as well as a good sized keezer, setup. Most of the yeasts I use share enough of a temperature range, that I could just set it once and not worry about it...
 
I've tried Eau de Vie and wasn't thrilled with its performance. It pooped out at 18%, though I've learned a few tricks since I tried it last and it might be worth giving it another go. I've had my highest ABV (non-fortified, non-concentrated) batches with Uvaferm 43 hitting 19-20%.
 
I'll probably stick with the ~18% range for now... Shouldn't need to age too long, and means I can use less honey to get there. :D I was going to use Eau De Vie in one of my first batches, but the LHBS was out of it at the time...
 
FWIW, Some guys on here are brewed a Utopia clone, uncarbonated beer at 24% and they used 1118 to get them up above 20 percent. I have one in the fermentor but haven't added the 1118 yet as my primary beer yeast is still popping along.

There has also been some research on adding minute drops of olive oil to beer to give yeast some yields similar to aeration. I have used this in addition to aeration in big beers and hope to try it in a big mead soon.
 
There's some stuff at my LHBS called Turbo Yeast. They've also got some other strains that are supposed to attenuate to 20-26% abv. The resulting wine tastes pretty awful, I'm told. If you're wondering why they sell it, it's got coupons or ads in the package talking about equipment that looks very similar to a Mr. Coffee...

I think 18% yeast is pretty much the highest reasonable attenuation one can expect out of a yeast and still get decent flavors. But I'm still a noob. A noob on a mission... *crosses fingers and prays to the mead gods that his cherry mead turns out well*.
 
There's some stuff at my LHBS called Turbo Yeast. They've also got some other strains that are supposed to attenuate to 20-26% abv. The resulting wine tastes pretty awful, I'm told. If you're wondering why they sell it, it's got coupons or ads in the package talking about equipment that looks very similar to a Mr. Coffee...
QUOTE]

I think the turbo yeasts and other 20%+ ABV yeasts are for kick starting spirit making. While the yeast makers don't expect you to distill (that is illegal without TTB/BAFTE/ABC lic), they also sell kits that you can make like a schnaps level drink with one of those.
 
AC,

I was vague about that on purpose, as it's generally frowned upon. But one day, maybe, it'll be legal. :mug:

I'm half-tempted to try some of that yeast, just on a 1-gal recipe, except honey's so expensive. I think I'd have to use 6 lbs just for that. I don't want to waste it, and I know I'll probably hate the finished product. But then again, it might make a good gag gift, no pun intended.

Edit-
In retrospect, I do remember asking a LHBS employee about those yeasts and he did say something about making a "wine" out of a neutral-tasting must, filtering the crap out of it, and then adding extract to flavor. Said he made coconut rum 27% abv. So you're spot on.
 
Well this put me in mind of perhaps pitching a 2nd yeast. If you started with a typical mead yeast, and then switched when it got up to about 15% (or more) to a distiller's alcohol. I looked one (or several up) Midwest lists one that I saw that could get to 21%. If you played with that a little you might was and force it higher - Sam Adam's monster beer goes to 28% on just yeast I think.

Just looked at Austin and they have a distillers that can go to 23%... So it looks like the mead might make it... btw, on the $$$ issue, you just need the honey by the bucket :)

So thinking the 4 gal on honey on 6 gallons of must, that might not have enough liquid to go. Basically just like salt drys out slugs, LME and Honey have to much sugar and to little water that they dehydrate bacteria - osmosis will draw the water out of the yeast and kill it. There might be a way of doing this but I'm not sure.
Done this using turbo yeast. Yes I used 4 gallons in a 6 gallon batch. I feed honey and nutrients as I go. every time it goes below 1.0 SG I add honey back to 1.02. Turbo yeast tops out at 21% and I think I am close. BTW it is not drinkable right now and it is 1 year old
 
I have an 18% mead with orange honey and fresh oranges added. It's 18 months now and last time I had it, it still tasted like rocket fuel. It went down to 1.000 so there is no sweetness backing it up.
 
I didn't make it, but I bought a Danish mead that was almost 22% ABV which is the highest I've ever seen for a mead...
 
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