Dry hopping is good for lots of brews, IMO, but then I'm a hophead. Pale, amber, ESB, and IPA's for example are all good dryhopping brews. Just take an ounce or two of your flavor/aroma type hops and dryhop in the secondary.
Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll give the dry hopping a shot and see what happens. Dry hopping doesn't do much for bitterness (or at least that's the way I understood it), so hopefully it won't come out too bitter.
@HOOTER:
.5 lbs Crystal 120 L (steep for 20 mins at 150 F)
6.6 lbs Northwestern Amber LME (Added while approaching boiling point)
1 oz EKG (bittering, 60 mins)
1 oz EKG (finishing, 10 mins)
Wyeast English Ale Yeast 1056
For the dry hopping I would be using .5 oz of Fuggles I have left over from my first batch.
When dry hopping how long does it take for the hops to sink to the bottom, if at all? I dry hopped when I transfered from primary to secondary (5 days ago) and there is a pretty good coating of hops residue on the top of the beer. I used pellets.
I love dry hopping! It gives a hop character that is unique. This doesn't mean everything has to be a hop bomb. Often I'll just do a half ounce. The way I do it is after racking to the secondary I wait until the beer clears and there is no activity at all (usualy 2-4 days after dropping if the beer was in the primary a sufficient amount of time) Then I put an ounce or so whole or plugs in a hop sack weighted with stainless steel ball bearings, let then gently drop to the bottom and rack off after about 10-14 days later. I think you get better results if you use whole or plug hops that are totaly submerged (weighted down) and if you can keep the temps to below 66F.