Bottling Tips for the Homebrewer

pinkfloyd4ever said:

Ok so I found an unopened bag of Brewers Best crowns in the basement, but they're probably around 10ish years old.

Is it a bad idea to use them?

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anyone, anyone?

Apparently david_42 uses some that are 8 years old, https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/first-timer-sort-looking-non-boring-recipe-153478/#post1774178 though he wouldn't really give an opinion

someone has to have some thoughts/opinions on this...I would've already bought some new ones to ease my mind, but both LHBSs pretty far out of my way.

As long as they aren't rusted, and the little bit of plastic in them looks OK, what else can go wrong...

bottled my first batch today. this thread helped tremendously. thanks Revvy!

the actual bottling/capping process only took about 45 minutes, but the with all the prep work and clean-up, it was more like 2.5 hours. not that i'm complaining. it's all part of the process. i just need to hone & streamline my procedures.

on the agenda for next bottling... dip tube.

I just bottled my first batch of beer last week Monday (1/25/10). It was a coopers Pilsner pre-hopped kit, and according to the info I read in this thread, I decided to test one after roughly a week . I set a bottle in my fridge Wednesday and decided to taste it this evening (9 days conditioning and 2 days in fridge). There wasn't much of a noise when I popped the cap... and there wasn't much head... but holy cow it is carbed like champagne at this point. I poured the glass about 15 minutes ago, and it is still bubbling like crazy.

I measured out the priming sugar by weight according to the recipe... and it has been conditioning in a closet at about 62 degress. I figured if anything it would take longer to build up the carb because my temp isn't at the desired 70. I know people generally get grief for posting that their beer is too flat before they wait a full 3 weeks... but mine is the opposite after only 9 days.

Should I be concerned that these have built up champagne style bubbles by only 9 days conditioning and 2 days in the fridge? Will this mellow out, or should I put them all in the fridge at this point? The beer was at 1.006 when I bottled it (according to recipe)... so I don't think it is an issue of bottling too early.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

sigmund said:

I don't clamp mine, it's just a slight interference fit. I just slide the tube onto my bottling bucket and over my wand and off I go. No issues with air getting in.

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I do this, too.

CBBaron said:

I label all my beers on the cap only. Instead of trying to write something legible and meaningful on the cap I use some colored Avery 3/4" round labels. you can download a template from Avery for the label sheets so that you can use your computer to print out the label. I am able to find a beer name and brew date. This means I don't have to come up with some kind of code and even people who receive gifts from me have some idea what the beer is.

Craig

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+1 for the Avery Labels

Dextersmom said:

kinda curious. does anyone (or did i just miss it) bottle by using their autosiphon with the bottle filler attached to the and of the hose? I've bottled two batches that way and i think i like it better than my old method (bottle filler, bridge, spigot) but i'm not sure yet.

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I did that once. I found it to be a PITA. I figured out this spigot method, after which I've not spilled hardly andy beer during bottling. I want to try the dip tube.

bernerbrau said:

I'm having some trouble getting consistent carbonation in my beers lately. I've recently switched to doing long primaries followed by long secondaries (1-2 months). Common wisdom says there's enough yeast left in the carboy to carbonate the beer. Well, with priming sugar I wasn't getting consistent carbonation (some carbed, some flat) so I switched to muntons tabs. No change.

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I've read that if you let your beer sit for over two months (or maybe it was a month) in primary and secondary, you should add some yeast when bottling. I generally follow this rule and it works well. I too had beers that would not bottle condition after months in a fermentor, but now I rehydrate some US-05 and put a little (I'm going to start measuring it soon) in the bottling bucket with the priming sugar right before I add the beer.

Anyone have any input for my over-carbed here after 9 days conditioning and 2 days in fridge? Should I just move all of them to fridge now? 9 days to over-carb seems fast

jrss13 said:

Anyone have any input for my over-carbed here after 9 days conditioning and 2 days in fridge? Should I just move all of them to fridge now? 9 days to over-carb seems fast

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Did you try just the one? I'd bet a sixer it was a fluke and the rest are right on schedule. The first few batches I did I had a few gushers. Then I stated gently stirring in the priming sugar and they have been consistently carbed.

Speaking of carbonation I was wondering since it's common practice to wait a minimum of three weeks before opening is there much difference in leaving them longer when it comes to carbing. My last few batches were not as carbed as previously after three weeks in primary and three weeks in the bottle. I'm thinking there is a limit to the amount of co2 the beer can hold or does it depend more on when the yeast is done as to when it's fully carbed.

The first thing I do is set the fermenter on my dining room table, and open it (briefly) to take a gravity reading, so I can calculate the amount of priming sugar I need. (I carb to style and use beersmith to tell me how much I need.)

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First, thanks for the informative post. I apologize if this has been addressed before, but there are so many replies to this thread, I did not read them all.

Is there a formula I can use to calculate the amount of sugar I need in relation to gravity without using Beersmith? I am a Mac user and Beersmith is not formatted for my system. ...Or do you know of something like Beersmith that is available for Mac?

This is my first brew. It's a brown ale with about 4.3% ABV. I am using an ingredient kit, but my batch ended up being just slightly proud of 4 gallons, somehow, and I am not sure if I should use the entire packet of priming sugar that was included (as this was supposed to be a 5 gal. batch).

Shearn said:

First, thanks for the informative post. I apologize if this has been addressed before, but there are so many replies to this thread, I did not read them all.

Is there a formula I can use to calculate the amount of sugar I need in relation to gravity without using Beersmith? I am a Mac user and Beersmith is not formatted for my system. ...Or do you know of something like Beersmith that is available for Mac?

This is my first brew. It's a brown ale with about 4.3% ABV. I am using an ingredient kit, but my batch ended up being just slightly proud of 4 gallons, somehow, and I am not sure if I should use the entire packet of priming sugar that was included (as this was supposed to be a 5 gal. batch).

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Actually that's a great question that hasn't been asked or addressed, and should be on here.

Here are some carbonation calculators.

http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html

http://www.tastybrew.com/calculators/priming.html

Shearn said:

Is there a formula I can use to calculate the amount of sugar I need in relation to gravity without using Beersmith? I am a Mac user and Beersmith is not formatted for my system. ...Or do you know of something like Beersmith that is available for Mac?

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I use Beersmith in conjunction with the Parallels Desktop emulator. Unfortunately, you would need to load windows within the emulator 1st. Kind of expensive. BeerTarget has a version for the MAC, but I've not been all that successful with it. It is user error not the tool. You can search this site for BeerTarget for download information and instructions.

JimE said:

I use Beersmith in conjunction with the Parallels Desktop emulator. Unfortunately, you would need to load windows within the emulator 1st. Kind of expensive. BeerTarget has a version for the MAC, but I've not been all that successful with it. It is user error not the tool. You can search this site for BeerTarget for download information and instructions.

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I haven't been a mac user for over a decade (sadly) but don't those online java based calculators that I linked work on macs as well as pcs?

Shearn said:

First, thanks for the informative post. I apologize if this has been addressed before, but there are so many replies to this thread, I did not read them all.

Is there a formula I can use to calculate the amount of sugar I need in relation to gravity without using Beersmith? I am a Mac user and Beersmith is not formatted for my system. ...Or do you know of something like Beersmith that is available for Mac?

This is my first brew. It's a brown ale with about 4.3% ABV. I am using an ingredient kit, but my batch ended up being just slightly proud of 4 gallons, somehow, and I am not sure if I should use the entire packet of priming sugar that was included (as this was supposed to be a 5 gal. batch).

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My batches usually end up just above 4 gal as well. I buy the 5oz priming sugar packs made for 5 gal batches and I weigh out 4 oz. This has worked very well for me.

Thanks to all the advice in this thread, my first time bottling went super easy!

Did the dip tube on the spigot in the bottling bucket and set it over the dishwasher.

Wow! Excellent thread! I am going to get a lot out of it before bottling day in a few weeks. I have only had time to read the first couple posts, but learned a lot already. Thanks!

Thanks for the great thread -- I got a lot of ideas being new to the sport of brew. I have a question for the masses -- I've read some posts about how splashing the fermented beer can cause oxidization , off flavors, etc. I was just thinking about my first batch and the bottling experience I went through and wondering if my process may need improvement (I'm sure it does since I'm figuring it all out as I go).

I don't have a bottling wand, so I stuck the end of my siphon hose partly into the bottle filling each and squeezing off the clamp before moving on to the next bottle. Is this a bad way of doing things because of the inherent splashing from beer blasting into the empty bottles? If so how can I improve this in future bottling sessions? Does anyone else do it this way or is buying a wand the way to go?

Thanks for the feedback.

Krrazy said:

I don't have a bottling wand, so I stuck the end of my siphon hose partly into the bottle filling each and squeezing off the clamp before moving on to the next bottle. Is this a bad way of doing things because of the inherent splashing from beer blasting into the empty bottles? If so how can I improve this in future bottling sessions? Does anyone else do it this way or is buying a wand the way to go?

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I wouldn't worry too much about the splashing when filling bottles that way. It just seems like a lot more effort than using a bottling wand. They're about $5 and make bottling a lot easier. I recommend the spring loaded ones.

Thanks EvilGnome6, cheers to a fellow Arizonan. I appreciate your reply -- I'm just getting started and slowly realizing what pieces of new equipment I need. Next on my list will have to be a bottling wand and maybe some more siphon hose so I can have a setup that's the perfect length. I have a stout that I brewed on Friday and I definitely want that to come the best it can be.

Krrazy said:

Thanks EvilGnome6, cheers to a fellow Arizonan. I appreciate your reply -- I'm just getting started and slowly realizing what pieces of new equipment I need. Next on my list will have to be a bottling wand and maybe some more siphon hose so I can have a setup that's the perfect length. I have a stout that I brewed on Friday and I definitely want that to come the best it can be.

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And cheers from another Zonie

Krrazy, take a look at my sig, and check the site out

Revvy said:

I haven't been a mac user for over a decade (sadly) but don't those online java based calculators that I linked work on macs as well as pcs?

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Yeah, they work great.

Hey Guys,

I can't for the life of me find the ratio of sugar to water for the priming solution.

Thanks

Morbeer said:

Hey Guys,

I can't for the life of me find the ratio of sugar to water for the priming solution.

Thanks

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3/4 cup of sugar into 2 cups of boiling water - for 5 gal.

Thanks Marsdude!
Right in the middle of getting ready to bottle, and totally blanked.

Just a quick followup on the bottling wand -- does it work well with an autosiphon or is that meant more for a bottling bucket with spigot setup as shown in some of the earlier pictures?

Thanks

Krrazy said:

Just a quick followup on the bottling wand -- does it work well with an autosiphon or is that meant more for a bottling bucket with spigot setup as shown in some of the earlier pictures?

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It works just fine, except you need three hands to get the siphon started; one to hold the wand in a bottle and two to start the siphon. Really, the bottling bucket with a dip tube is the way to go.

EvilGnome6 said:

It works just fine, except you need three hands to get the siphon started; one to hold the wand in a bottle and two to start the siphon. Really, the bottling bucket with a dip tube is the way to go.

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Thanks for the reply -- I've noticed the need for additional hands even with my simple setup. The next time I bottle (hopefully next weekend) I'm going to try out some wedges I made to go in the mouth of the carboy and hopefully hold the siphon in place. I'll post pictures if it works. I'm sure someone else had implemented a solution like this before and I know they make a racking cane clip but I haven't seen anything that is designed to hold the larger diameter autosiphon in place. I am starting to see the merits of the bottling bucket.

After reading the first 8 pages of this thread, I have now added a flexible tube between my dip tube and the tap, as shown in newbeerpig's pics on page 7.
The kids always help me bottle but with this set up they can just about do it all by themsleves!!!

Interesting, looks like im going to make a bottling bucket. Still wondering how i should sanitize my bottles, Sanitization should occur right b4 you bottle correct?

George7845 said:

Interesting, looks like im going to make a bottling bucket. Still wondering how i should sanitize my bottles, Sanitization should occur right b4 you bottle correct?

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I have found the easiest way for me to sanitize the bottles is to use a vinator filled with StarSan.

Marsdude said:

I have found the easiest way for me to sanitize the bottles is to use a vinator filled with StarSan.

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Yep. The dunk and gurgle method works, but it takes a lot longer. The Vinator makes it much less of a chore.

Lol i want to buy a vinator, def a bottleing tree of some sort cause i cant see the dish strainer holding them upside down very well. LOL I know i am going to catch crap from the fiancee, so i may just use sink method. Can they still be semi wet with sanitizing solution when you bottle? Or should they be semi drip dried?

George7845 said:

Lol i want to buy a vinator, def a bottleing tree of some sort cause i cant see the dish strainer holding them upside down very well. LOL I know i am going to catch crap from the fiancee, so i may just use sink method. Can they still be semi wet with sanitizing solution when you bottle? Or should they be semi drip dried?

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If you have a dishwasher, it makes a perfect drying rack for 2 1/2 cases of beer.

I prefer to let them drain out complete rather than have a puddle of sanitizer solution in the bottle. I know plenty of people say not to fear the Starsan, but I prefer not to have that much residue.

So im thinking cleaning bottles out like 20 mins ahead of time with start san,, putting them on my 45 bottle holder rack, should they not be air dry b4 i bottle? will letting them dry that much be bad?

Oh and this morning im soaking some beer bottles to get the labels off.... Right away i notice its kind of a pain, and thats only 6 bottles. Not sure if some company labels are easier or harder to clean off than others, this is Saranac pale ale. But i came up with a !IDEA! Why not use wall paper remover gel? I have a bottle left over from a room i stripped and painted, and it rinses right off. And another thing, think the bottles would hold up if i "lightly" scored the label? YAY OR NAY?

EvilGnome6 said:

I prefer to let them drain out complete rather than have a puddle of sanitizer solution in the bottle. I know plenty of people say not to fear the Starsan, but I prefer not to have that much residue.

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Well you are really reducing your sanitizer's efficacy by 50% by doing that.

Most of the sanitzers we use are No rinse/wet contact sanitizers. They are literally double edged swords. They kill two ways. They kill everything on the object prior to sanitizing, and then as long as they are still wet they form a sanitizer barrier that kills everything that comes into contact with object.

If you let the sanitizer dry any micro organism that comes in contact with the sanitized object, rather than being killed by it, makes the object no longer sanitzed.

You really want to sanitize right at the time you are using the thing you are sanitizing.

I put a lot of good info and tips of effectively using sanitizers in here. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/sanitizer-question-54932/

Starsan especially, but even iodophor at the correct dilution, are perfectly safe. And in the case of starsan, you are actually helping your yeast by racking on top of the foam. It get's neutralized and actually becomes yeastfood for the little critters.

Personally if you let your sanitizer dry you are playing Russian Roulette with your sanitization.

George7845 said:

Oh and this morning im soaking some beer bottles to get the labels off.... Right away i notice its kind of a pain, and thats only 6 bottles. Not sure if some company labels are easier or harder to clean off than others, this is Saranac pale ale. But i came up with a !IDEA! Why not use wall paper remover gel? I have a bottle left over from a room i stripped and painted, and it rinses right off. And another thing, think the bottles would hold up if i "lightly" scored the label? YAY OR NAY?

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Rather than going straight to the napalm option, maybe give OxiFree a shot -- it's the prevailing substance used 'round these parts to soak labels off... not the only one, but certainly a community favorite. It's likely cheaper than wallpaper remover, less caustic, and is less likely to cause genetic mutation if a tiny bit of residue gets left behind. *grins* Here are a few useful threads about removing labels:

Best way to get old beer labels off
Best methods for cleaning bottles?

Also, unless you're scoring with a diamond or a front-end-loader, you shouldn't damage your bottles at all... but it may not be necessary.

I craked up reading that reply, haha ty

Revvy said:

Well you are really reducing your sanitizer's efficacy by 50% by doing that.

Most of the sanitzers we use are No rinse/wet contact sanitizers. They are literally double edged swords. They kill two ways. They kill everything on the object prior to sanitizing, and then as long as they are still wet they form a sanitizer barrier that kills everything that comes into contact with object.

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I'm not talking about letting them dry out completely. I let them drain out upside down so there isn't a big puddle of sanitizer solution in the bottle. I sanitize right before I bottle so the inside is still wet.