Best kettle

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Layne

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
959
Reaction score
20
Location
Gonzales
Whats the best option for 5 AND 10 gal batches
It's time to build my brew sculpture.
I do mostly 5 gal batches with a 7.5 gal pot and 2 10 gal coolers.
I also do some 10 gal batches with a converted keggle and the 10 gal coolers(tight).
Any advise appreciated.
ps I talked to several homebrew mailorder places, and was basically told to 'decide what size batches I wanted to brew' and go with that size. Really? There has to be a happy medium. It seemed themometer and drain locations were the biggest obstical. I really like the blichmanns with all the bells and whistles. Maybe the answer is to buy kettles and locate my own drains and thermometers. Could it be that simple.
 
I use a keggle for 5 and 10 gallon batches. Works great for both. I use a 15 gal cooler, which also works great for both, (Ice Cube cooler...tall and skinny ..so the grainbed isn't too thin even with a weak 5 gal batch...)
 
Whats the best option for 5 AND 10 gal batches
It's time to build my brew sculpture.
I do mostly 5 gal batches with a 7.5 gal pot and 2 10 gal coolers.
I also do some 10 gal batches with a converted keggle and the 10 gal coolers(tight).
Any advise appreciated.
ps I talked to several homebrew mailorder places, and was basically told to 'decide what size batches I wanted to brew' and go with that size. Really? There has to be a happy medium. It seemed themometer and drain locations were the biggest obstical. I really like the blichmanns with all the bells and whistles. Maybe the answer is to buy kettles and locate my own drains and thermometers. Could it be that simple.

Blichmans are nice, but the thermometer locations are not ideal. This is a limit of the jig that they use to punch those holes.

You are good to go with a 15 gallon Blichman for boiling 5-10 gallon batches, BUT the thermometer is located at the 6.5 gallon position.

They are pretty kettles, they are well thought out (snap in dip tubes, easy to clean GLASS sight gauges etc...) You can get a nice kettle, and locate your own valves, thermometers etc though for much less... they just wont be as cohesive as the Blichman design, which was designed as a unit.

Sankeys are REALLY heavy, so keep that in mind... Polarware pots are really popular it seems.
 
Whats the best option for 5 AND 10 gal batches
It's time to build my brew sculpture.

Best? That's going to be pretty subjective.

For my money it's the one that will let you walk away from a full on boil and not boil over.
 
It always seemed to me that the Blichmans were kind of thin/flimsy compared to the Polarwares. I guess they don't need to be that thick, but I prefer overbuilt, over-engineered systems.

That being said, If money were no object, I would buy Polarware's and have the fittings welded in to suit my needs.

Since money is an object, I am building mine with converted kegs and weldless fittings.
 
I guess I'll have to call, but do you know if you can get the blichmann without the thermometer, and add it at the level I want?
I really like the 'bling' factor, and really want to have a knockout rig for my new cookshack.
 
I guess I'll have to call, but do you know if you can get the blichmann without the thermometer, and add it at the level I want?
I really like the 'bling' factor, and really want to have a knockout rig for my new cookshack.

You cannot. You can plug the hole though.
 
It always seemed to me that the Blichmans were kind of thin/flimsy compared to the Polarwares.

Really? Wow. I have never touched their kettle. Like the look tho'. I recently had a dialog with a Chinese conical manufacturer. I asked him for something I could look at, engineering drawings, pictures - anything - to get a dialog going on his products. He sent me a stock photo of the Blickmann Ferminator line complete with labels.
Gave me pause. Were they from that Chinese factory? Or did he just rip them of the internet? I didn't e-mail him again. The picture was grainy.
If they didn't care enough to have decent images ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

It was these guys:
http://www.cqindusg.com.cn/
http://www.cqindustry.com/
Their website does not have the Ferminator line on it.
It has these: http://www.cqindustry.com/product/product10_en.html


I guess they don't need to be that thick, but I prefer overbuilt, over-engineered systems.

Me too.
Have you had the chance to feel the Bayou Classic Line?


That being said, If money were no object, I would buy Polarware's and have the fittings welded in to suit my needs.

Will Polarware do it?
 
I guess I'll have to call, but do you know if you can get the blichmann without the thermometer, and add it at the level I want?
I really like the 'bling' factor, and really want to have a knockout rig for my new cookshack.

The Blichs are thinner than a keggle, but they are plenty suitable for brewing, the plus side is that they are MUCH lighter.
 
Will Polarware do it?

No, but you can buy them from one of the big sites and they usually will (weldless) or you can go to a welder.

For the record, I don't think Blichmann's are flimsy at all. Hell, I dropped my Bayou Classic pot full of (cleaning) water the other day, can't even tell. Blichmanns are made better than those to be sure.
 
The Blichs are thinner than a keggle, but they are plenty suitable for brewing, the plus side is that they are MUCH lighter.

My ten gallon pot is thick walled with a clad bottom, that thing weighs a ton, even empty. I'm not sure if I would trust a Blichmann to an electric range, those thin walled pots have scorched wort on me, despite Blichmann's claims to the contrary. May not be an issue with gas heat, but the first pot I used has a permanent spiral on the bottom.
 
No, but you can buy them from one of the big sites and they usually will (weldless) or you can go to a welder.

For the record, I don't think Blichmann's are flimsy at all. Hell, I dropped my Bayou Classic pot full of (cleaning) water the other day, can't even tell. Blichmanns are made better than those to be sure.

Flimsy may have been the wrong word. Minimally engineered might be more appropriate.
 
I'm really stuck on the Blichmanns.
OK, what about a combination of 10 and 15 gallon kettles?
Depending on if i'm doing a 5 or 10 gal batch, maybe I can switch between Boil kettle ,HLT,and mash tun of different sizes.
Trying to get my head wrapped arround this as an option, and what sizes would be needed for what size batches.
 
Maybe so... it is up to you, the Blichman site has a lot of great info on kettle and MLT sizing for you to make a decision.
 
I have the 15 gallon Blichs. I do 5 and 10 gallon batches. The stock thermometers work well for 10 gallon batches, but not for 5 gallons. No worries, my system has digital temp probes as well that are always submerged for control purposes. Cant use an analog thermometer for digital control anyway, so if you are looking to go digital down the road, the location of a silly thermometer is really of no real consequence.

Best bet is to get what you want, for your own reasons... because there will always be someone on HBT that will tell you not to. Always.
 
I am in the same boat right now. I have (2) 10 gallon coolers and am looking for a bk. I have found this decision to be a slippery slope. I have decided on SS, but where I waiver is on size and price point. I have no plans on brewing more than 5 gallons at a time "now", so a 40 quart pot should be fine. However, I would be lying if I didn't admit to being swayed a little to buy a bigger pot due to members suggestions, such as, " it would just cost a little more to buy the 60 quart, or heck, why not just buy the 80 quart now, its just a little more, and you're gonna want it in the future anyway so you can brew bigger batches".

And that brings me to the price point conundrum. It always just cost a little more. I find myself pricing out a certain pot, then adding a ball valve here, a thermometer there, a site tube here, and before I know it, I'm getting closer to the price of the Blichmann's. And then I think, well, why not just spend a little more now, and get a high quality bk from the start. And then I see that a 15 gallon pot is just a "little" more than the 10 gallon pot and here we have come full circle. Nasty, isn't it?

Anyway, I feel your pain, and like you, do not want to be dissappointed in my purchase in the future. So, right now, I am possibly thinking about getting the 42 quart polar ware http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_33_463&products_id=869 I believe this may be a good balance between quality and cost and I like the dimensions. But, as you are probably well aware, things may change.

Good luck on your decision.
 
If money were no object, I'd still have my keggles. One day, when Blichmann is on their 10th revision of their finest boil pot, it will look just like a keggle.

  • The bottom of the keggle is curved just perfectly. It has rolled solid rims on the top and bottom to both provide structural integrity and beautifully funnel the heat around the curved bottom surface (if you use a burner).
  • Large handles are provided. Ribbing and the rolled rims entirely inhibit any flexing.
  • There are no interior "corners" into which your spoon or stirrer can't reach.

I've never had a blichmann pot, but I don't see the allure. I do understand that there is some DIY effort involved with putting together a usable keggle, so that is understandably an issue for some folks.
 
I do understand that there is some DIY effort involved with putting together a usable keggle, so that is understandably an issue for some folks.

Actually you can buy them pre-built. And they can be brand new for that "bling" factor.(vomits in mouth)
 
Come on guys, you're killin me here.

I'm trying to narrow down this BK decision and now you got me thinking about keggles.

dang
 
Come on guys, you're killin me here.

I'm trying to narrow down this BK decision and now you got me thinking about keggles.

dang
I've heard Blichmanns are noticeably easier to clean than a standard stainless steel pot. Something about the bling makes it easier to wipe down.

Really when you are talking about pots, the only differences are going to be weight, thickness, heat retention and conductivity, ease of cleaning, and the all encompassing price. Which of those are most important to you should determine your choice.

Price and reasonable durability were the only things that really mattered to me, so long as the heat could get to the wort. Oh, and I also have burners that probably couldn't support keggle weight. Therefore, I have Bayou Classic 62qt SS pots drilled out and equipped. The only question I ask myself is, "Should I get 80qt?."

So just make a decision, you'll be making beer no matter your choice.
 
It always seemed to me that the Blichmans were kind of thin/flimsy compared to the Polarwares. I guess they don't need to be that thick, but I prefer overbuilt, over-engineered systems.

That being said, If money were no object, I would buy Polarware's and have the fittings welded in to suit my needs.

Since money is an object, I am building mine with converted kegs and weldless fittings.

Polarware pots are awesome. The heat tranfer is much greater than my keggle. If I were doing it over I would buy the best 25 gallon pots I could afford. Not so important if your electric, but if your gas you get what you pay for.
 
If they don't fit your needs, I don't see why.

Shiny only gets you so far.

Why is everyone so stuck on Blingman? If I'm building a structure I want to make it the way I want. This means I need the couplings welded in where I want them. They just are soooo over priced. I don't like my keggle and when I can get a 30 gallon pot I'm going with it. Just me. Your building your structure so make it custom. Just like the room build. Make it yours.
 
Polarware pots are awesome. The heat tranfer is much greater than my keggle. If I were doing it over I would buy the best 25 gallon pots I could afford. Not so important if your electric, but if your gas you get what you pay for.


Side question:

If one were to brew strictly with electricity, would that necessarily change what they are looking for in a BK?
 
Blichmans are great for electric brewing.

Also, I dont know that Blichmans are overpriced... if you really add up all of the options that they come with, they are pretty reasonable. 3 piece ball valves, snap in dip tubes, the adjustable thermometers, the GLASS sight gauges... not to mention a full set of tools to take the kettle apart and cleaning brushes etc for sight gauges... You get a lot more than a simple kettle when you buy a Blichman, just saying.
 
Side question:

If one were to brew strictly with electricity, would that necessarily change what they are looking for in a BK?

What he said ^^^.

One of the only advantages pots have over keggles is they like to sandwich materials with better thermal conductivity, i.e., aluminum, inside the resilient SS skin. I have AllClad cookware that is made this way, and it heats very evenly. This might be useful when using a flame. Personally, I don't think it is important at all for cooking liquids.

With an electrical element, you don't care about this. In fact, low thermal conductivity is better when heating this way. I am 100% electric.
 
Blichmans are great for electric brewing.

Also, I dont know that Blichmans are overpriced... if you really add up all of the options that they come with, they are pretty reasonable. 3 piece ball valves, snap in dip tubes, the adjustable thermometers, the GLASS sight gauges... not to mention a full set of tools to take the kettle apart and cleaning brushes etc for sight gauges... You get a lot more than a simple kettle when you buy a Blichman, just saying.

true, if the OP considers a keggle he also needs to consider the fittings (and potentially tools to make holes!)
 
I mean you need to add the weldless fittings, (or welded) to the cost, how many people are putting 3 piece SS ball valves on their keggles? Not to mention the $75 thermometer that comes standard on the Blichman and the GLASS sight gauge. Most people are using some polycarbonate sight gauge in a compression fitting, one piece ball valves etc... and a keggle doesn't come with the tools to disassemble it and clean it etc. Blichmans come with SS heat shields as well...

You get what you pay for, the thing is when you get a Blichman they put some of the most expensive components on it before it ships. They aren't thick, the bottoms aren't, but for electric brewing they are sweet, cannot speak to how they are on a burner.
 
Maybe I should steer this thread back to my original thought process. My bad, not to be more specific.

When I said 'best kettle', I meant best kettle size,shape,ect. for 5 AND 10 gal batches, NOT the best brand.
 
Maybe I should steer this thread back to my original thought process. My bad, not to be more specific.

When I said 'best kettle', I meant best kettle size,shape,ect. for 5 AND 10 gal batches, NOT the best brand.

15 gallons... as I stated on the first page.
 
You will want at least a 15 gallon kettle if you plan on doing 10 gallon batches and it still will be tight . Boil overs are a concern also what rig are you using?

The boil kettle should be taller with small diameter to limit boil off short wide pots like sauce pots are made that way to simmer and boil off the liquid faster.If you are going with Stainless steel the better pots have glad bottoms for more even heat

The thicker the gauge the better.
 
It would help if you would prioritize the criteria for us.

  • Functions for 5 and 10 gallon batches
  • Ball Valve
  • Thermometer
  • Site Glass
  • Welded
  • Weldless
  • Price
  • Ready out of the box
  • Don't mind Customizing
  • Gas Fired
  • Electric

If we know exactly what you want and what is most important, we can better help you determine your best option.
 
My first choice would be a Polarware kettle.

My dislikes on converted kegs are:
1. They are too heavy
2. The curved bottom does not heat as evenly as a flat bottom. This may or may not be a consideration for some, depending on if the kettle is used as a BK or MT and whether gas fired or electric.
3. The rolled rim skirt around the bottom retains heat LONG after flame out. This inhibits rapid chilling of the wort for a BK.
4. They are a little harder to clean than a straight sided kettle, but this is a fairly minor consideration.

I don't like the Blingman's because:
1. They are too thin
2. All the fitting are weldless
3. You must buy the 3-piece SS ball valve, sight gage, lids & thermometer with the kettle whether you want them or not. These should all be optional IMO.
4. The sight gage is ported above the FB in the MT when the FB is used. It would be better if it was ported below for a RIMS or Herms setup.
5. Price is high

I like the Megapots a lot, but have not seen one first hand. They also have weldless fittings IIRC. I do like that they have clad bottoms.

I have a 10 gallon Polarware w/FB and a converted keg, also with a FB. The PW is my MT and the keg is my BK. On occasion, the converted keg will double as a MT for large high gravity brews. A 15 gallon Polarware or Megapot is in my future. Haven't decided which yet, or when for that matter.

When it comes to kettles, grain mills and a lot of other brewing equipment, it seems everyone loves whatever it is they happen to have. I guess it comes down to personal preference and how you plan to use it.
 
My first choice would be a Polarware kettle.

My dislikes on converted kegs are:
1. They are too heavy
2. The curved bottom does not heat as evenly as a flat bottom. This may or may not be a consideration for some, depending on if the kettle is used as a BK or MT and whether gas fired or electric.
3. The rolled rim skirt around the bottom retains heat LONG after flame out. This inhibits rapid chilling of the wort for a BK.
4. They are a little harder to clean than a straight sided kettle, but this is a fairly minor consideration.

I don't like the Blingman's because:
1. They are too thin
2. All the fitting are weldless
3. You must buy the 3-piece SS ball valve, sight gage, lids & thermometer with the kettle whether you want them or not. These should all be optional IMO.
4. The sight gage is ported above the FB in the MT when the FB is used. It would be better if it was ported below for a RIMS or Herms setup.
5. Price is high

I like the Megapots a lot, but have not seen one first hand. They also have weldless fittings IIRC. I do like that they have clad bottoms.

I have a 10 gallon Polarware w/FB and a converted keg, also with a FB. The PW is my MT and the keg is my BK. On occasion, the converted keg will double as a MT for large high gravity brews. A 15 gallon Polarware or Megapot is in my future. Haven't decided which yet, or when for that matter.

When it comes to kettles, grain mills and a lot of other brewing equipment, it seems everyone loves whatever it is they happen to have. I guess it comes down to personal preference and how you plan to use it.

Couldn't have said it better myself. :)
 
The 10 gallon pot I have is the pot that the megapot is based off of. It is thick and high quality. Though as much as it weighs, you can't really say keggles are too heavy compared to them. I imagine the 15 gallon Megapot will weigh about as much as a keggle.
 
Back
Top