Weldless fitting for a water heating element in an aluminum pot?

Any ideas on a weldless fitting for a water heater element in an aluminum pot? The pot is 4mm thick, so would it be possible to find a tap to tap the hole for a screw in element and create a good seal?

There is info for SS, but little on aluminum weldless fittings for these with any real direction/information that I could find.

Thanks.

Or use a 1.25" PVC threaded coupler and tighten it on from the inside with the flange on the outside... this is how I modified my cooler

Here is a pic, hard to see the inside of the cooler, but that is it...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/new-10-gallon-herms-pics-76773/index5.html

I don't know if any plastic readily available as threaded fitting can withstand boiling temperature...

Screw type electric element are, from my investigation, NPS (national pipe straight). All of the brass and copper fittings (NPT) that I've tried don't screw up more than half of a thread. You need straight thread. McMaster have a stainless locknut (4464K586) that should work perfectly.

I'm currently waiting for a reply from Wayne from Bargain fittings to see if can provide me (and others) this particular nut. Since I will be ordering my other fitting sets from him I suggested him to offer this 1"X11-1/2 NPS SS locknut. Let him know you'd like it too!

PVC bulkhead fittings are only rated to 140F. Polypropylene fittings are rated to 200F.

Specifications to consider are melting point and the "point-when-the-plastic-get-too-soft"... keep in mind that wort is boiled up to two hours sometime... and mostly don't forget that your are dealing with electricity here. I guess many of us could deal with a leaking fitting without too much problem but when you mix electricity, it can get "tricky"!

Thanks for the input everyone, and Paco let me know about bargain fittings... if we can get them through him, that would be helpful. In my other searches they were about $14 a pop!

The OP was for a aluminum pot adding a heating element how did it go to coolers and PVC pipe?

On that pot it's only 4mm thick or .157" too thin to thread besides the radius of the pots OD adds to the sealing problem. A 1/2" or better yet 3/4" thick piece of aluminum with the inner face milled to match the pot OD radius then Tig welded to the pot would be great. Drill then tap for your element to seal on the flat surface as it was intended would be the way to do it correctky. Drill and tap then Tig the inside of the pot to the plate then chase the threads again No leaks now or later and done correctly.

Brewbeemer, now that is an interesting idea I had not considered; it is why I am glad to have the resources and knowledge of this board.

There is a shop that builds short track cars; maybe I will see if there is someone in there who is qualified and would do it for less than my arm and leg.

BrewBeemer said:

The OP was for a aluminum pot adding a heating element how did it go to coolers and PVC pipe?

On that pot it's only 4mm thick or .157" too thin to thread besides the radius of the pots OD adds to the sealing problem. A 1/2" or better yet 3/4" thick piece of aluminum with the inner face milled to match the pot OD radius then Tig welded to the pot would be great. Drill then tap for your element to seal on the flat surface as it was intended would be the way to do it correctky. Drill and tap then Tig the inside of the pot to the plate then chase the threads again No leaks now or later and done correctly.

Click to expand...

It went there because regardless of the material (aluminum or plastic) if you are poking a heating element through the wall of anything, the same principles will apply. Since I converted a cooler and had a nut that worked, and has been used on various other systems, I thought it may be a helpful jumping off point.

Have you ever considered running the element up from the bottom? Depending on your rig and how you transfer your fluids, this would greatly simplify your install.

The intent is to use an element to aid in stove-top boils, so bottom mounting has never been an option.

I have a ceramic cooktop stove, and a 20 amp 120v receptacle on a separate circuit next to the stove. So I am looking into increasing the "efficiency" of my brewday with 5 gallon stove-top batches by decreasing time spent ramping up to temps.

Being aluminum, I suspect you'd be able to hammer a flat spot near where you want to install it. Replace the gasket with a silicone oring and use a stainless (or brass) locknut on the inside (no oring here).

I just got a reply from Wayne at Bargain Fittings and the 1 inch locknut he received worked well with the elements he tested with. He even sent me pictures to show! Talk about pre-sale services!?!

You either can contact him directly or wait that I post my result when I get mines from him. I'll be using those on a keggle (~1/16" thick SS wall).

More later...

Definitely post your results/impressions!

If you scroll down a bit on this page: thread I explain how I did it to my aluminum boil pot. Part numbers and everything!

neo82087 said:

If you scroll down a bit on this page: thread I explain how I did it to my aluminum boil pot. Part numbers and everything!

Click to expand...

Where did you find the Ultra Low Density element?
Where @ HD did you find these nuts!!!? I have looked all over!

Right now I am using a PEX fitting that I cut down on my test rig. It is a $3 fitting from home depot. It is rated for potable water up around boiling temperatures. I am using it for an HLT so I am very comfortable with it. My plan is to use two on my keggle HLT, I'll post my real world results on a keggle.

Only the element and the steel (not stainless, so it's on the outside) locknut are from HD. All other parts are from Grainger or McMaster. I liked this method because the bushing is permanent and with an element wrench you can remove the element very easily for cleaning or replacement.

cyberbackpacker said:

Definitely post your results/impressions!

Click to expand...

I received the locknut today and they thread exactly as expected on the element I have which is a very common brand around here (Giant). I believe this 1" screw-in type is in fact standard from my investigation. I'm from Québec - Canada (tested one) and Wayne (Bargain Fittings) is from Texas - USA (tested two) so I guess it work with "all" screw-in type element in the North America.

Link to pictures of the element and the locknut.

Will post picture(s) of the assembly on the keg once done.

BTW, I'm very happy with the service I got from Bargain Fittings.

The white plastic PVC fittings get soft and expand even at mash temps. I used the PVC fittings on my march pumps to avoid threading metal fittings onto the plastic pumps but every brew session I get leaks and have to thread the plastic fitting on even further. I am going to switch over to brass with teflon tape this weekend. At temps over 140 it is very easy to stretch pvc fittings

Thanks for the update paco; BTW how thick is your pot you are using?

cyberbackpacker said:

Thanks for the update paco; BTW how thick is your pot you are using?

Click to expand...

It's a Sanke keg (~1/16").

Since there's no pressure neither (assumed) force on the element, it only require a few threads to hold it in place correctly. I may hammer flat the area of the fitting on the keggle as well. One could look for a thinner seal for the element; say O-ring (hi-temp).