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I use waaaaaaaaaaaaay to much whirlfloc and just call it a victory (0.25 of a tablet).

I'm still using the very first bag of whirlfloc I ever bought, and it's only half empty.
 
Phug, I am using the Amazon scale (AC-100 I think its called) recommended somewhere near the begging of this thread.
 
Any one attempt a 1 gal Dunkel ever? I am very interested in brewing one but at ale temps, any advice what yeast to use?
 
Phug, I am using the Amazon scale (AC-100 I think its called) recommended somewhere near the begging of this thread.

I've had that scale for over a year and use it quite a bit, no problems. It is a very good scale! Mine is from a company called AWS, model AC-100.
 
All my beers sit 21 days once the krausen forms.

Have some been ready sooner? Yup. Could I speed up the process on certain beers? Yup. Would I do it? Nope. Let's the beer mature a little, gets the yeast out of suspension after they've cleaned up, and usually allows the FG to stabilize fully. I say usually becuase I have found a yeast that if you let it chillax a month or more, it'll continue to chew down the FG a bit more than you expected (S33).

I'm not in a hurry, and if you have a pipeline rolling you'll be surpised at how fast that 21 days comes due.

This shouldn't be confused with allowing high ABV beers (other than hop bombs) to hang out and really meld together. Those need time to mature, sometimes well into months, to make sure they're ready.

Great advice here.this is why I love this place
 
Thanks med and darth, one more thing to put on the wish list



Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Any one attempt a 1 gal Dunkel ever? I am very interested in brewing one but at ale temps, any advice what yeast to use?

You want to use dry yeast or liquid?

Traditional dunkels are lagers, so you'll need to account for that when fermenting (you could lager in your fridge, but you'll need to turn the temp up during fermentation as most fridges are quite a bit lower than 50F). Whether or not you can stand your leftovers at 50F for a week or so is up to you. :D The sacrifices we make for beer...

If using a dry yeast, I'd go Fermentis W34/70, if using liquid I'd go with either Bavarian Lager (Wyeast 2206) or the Munich Lager (2308)

You could use an ale yeast, but you'll need to be careful not to pick one that attenuates too far (like US05/Notty), and ferment it cool so you don't get weird esters showing up. Something like BRY-97, Fermentis K-97, Wyeast German Ale might be a good choices, just know that some of them are pokey yeasts that takes it's sweet time showing up or leaving the party if ya dig.

Here's a link to a BYO article that might help:
https://byo.com/stories/item/578-dunkel-style-profile

:mug:
 
So I started a new job tonight and saw that the hot sauce comes in these ImageUploadedByHome Brew1415157619.089035.jpg is there any reason I shouldn't aka to keep 4-6 of these to brew in?
 
Go for it just make sure you clean them really we'll, or you'll get a hot sauce IPA


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I want to start making all grain small batches in my kitched 2.5 gallons seems ideal. I currently brew 5 gallon extract batches but just want something simple I can do more often but using all grain. Where can I look to help me get started. Have thought about doing brew in a bag in the same pot I'll use as a kettle.
 
I currently do 2.5 to 3 gallon BIAB batches on my stove. BIAB is about as simple as you can get. If you've done extract batches with steeping grains, you're most of the way there.

You probably already have a 5 gallon kettle so you're good. I've found that with grain absorption and boil-off, I need to start out with about 4 gallons of water. With the volume of the grain, the water can get pretty close to the top of a 5 gallon kettle. The only new thing you really need is a huge straining bag which your LHBS will probably sell labelled for BIAB.

For the mash, controlling your temperature is a lot more important. Without insulation, you're going to lose a lot more heat. You're going to want to keep a close eye on the mash temperature, and turn the heat back on if you find it getting low. You can use an inverted strainer or something so that the bag never touches the bottom while the burner is on

I do full-volume BIAB with no sparge. I've gotten good efficiency out of it, and it's as easy as you can possibly get. I followed the guide posted by Seven over in the BIAB forum here.
 
I want to start making all grain small batches in my kitched 2.5 gallons seems ideal. I currently brew 5 gallon extract batches but just want something simple I can do more often but using all grain. Where can I look to help me get started. Have thought about doing brew in a bag in the same pot I'll use as a kettle.


To add to what Sisyphus said above:

I also am doing just that (BIAB 2.5-3 gal batches, using my 5 gal pot). But I don't do full volume boils - i will mash at 2.0 qts/lb (usually - for really big beers I'll have to lower this to fit it all in that pot), and then dunk sparge in a new pot (I have a three gallon I use for this - though that would be an added expense if you don't have an extra pot already) with the remaining water I need to hit my preboil volume (plus the absorbed water by the grain, which is usually around .08 gal/lb for me).

For example, the Oktoberfest I'm currently drinking had 6 lbs of grain, so I mashed with 12 qt (3 gal) water in my 5 gal pot for 60 min, then heated up about 7 qts to 170 in my smaller pot to sparge in, by dunking the whole bag in it, stirring, and then letting sit for another 10 min before removing the grains. Once the grains are out, add this wort back into the "first runnings" in your big pot to then boil as usual (see Deathbrewer's partial mash sticky for more details). This does take longer, obviously, but will let you use more total water and grain that may be limiting with only one pot. I will get anywhere from 70-80% kettle efficiency this way, depending on the grain bill...

Also, how I minimize my heat loss during mashing with the smaller volumes is by putting the pot in the oven set on warm. This is about 170ish, and keep the mash temp within a degree after an hour or more. I just have to remove one baking rack, but with the other one on the very bottom, the five gal pot fits in there perfectly...

Hope that helps! Since I switched to all grain BIAB like this, I've been very happy with the ease of brewing and quality of the beers...



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Do you guys use batch priming for 1 gal quantities?

I tried bottle priming with Coopers Carbonation drops (just less cleanup for a few bottles' worth), but on 450ml and 2 or3 500ml bottles. I know the drops are meant for smaller 350ml and i figured slight undercarb rather than overcarb wouldn't be THAT bad, compared with having to engineer the precise splitting of a 1/3 piece of Coopers drop.

Well after 3 weeks, my beers are flat! I looked like a fool in front of my wife for those first ever homebrews i was touting. Now, they felt properly chilled even if I only left them in fridge for 24hrs (which i should have been more patient with, granted); but there should have been some little activity showing, like slight foam even if mathematically undercarbonated, no?

I added a second Coopers drop in 2 room-temp bottles, dumped a 1/2 broken Coppers drop in another and left the other 5 intact. How do you guys handle bottle priming in 450-500ml swingtops?
 
You want to use dry yeast or liquid?

Traditional dunkels are lagers, so you'll need to account for that when fermenting (you could lager in your fridge, but you'll need to turn the temp up during fermentation as most fridges are quite a bit lower than 50F). Whether or not you can stand your leftovers at 50F for a week or so is up to you. :D The sacrifices we make for beer...

If using a dry yeast, I'd go Fermentis W34/70, if using liquid I'd go with either Bavarian Lager (Wyeast 2206) or the Munich Lager (2308)

You could use an ale yeast, but you'll need to be careful not to pick one that attenuates too far (like US05/Notty), and ferment it cool so you don't get weird esters showing up. Something like BRY-97, Fermentis K-97, Wyeast German Ale might be a good choices, just know that some of them are pokey yeasts that takes it's sweet time showing up or leaving the party if ya dig.

Here's a link to a BYO article that might help:
https://byo.com/stories/item/578-dunkel-style-profile

:mug:

Thanks for all the advice! Much appreciated. I actually brewed it up yesterday and used a San Francisco lager yeast so should be interesting ;). Its putting away at about 72F that's my norm home temp.
 
Do you guys use batch priming for 1 gal quantities?

I tried bottle priming with Coopers Carbonation drops (just less cleanup for a few bottles' worth), but on 450ml and 2 or3 500ml bottles. I know the drops are meant for smaller 350ml and i figured slight undercarb rather than overcarb wouldn't be THAT bad, compared with having to engineer the precise splitting of a 1/3 piece of Coopers drop.

Well after 3 weeks, my beers are flat! I looked like a fool in front of my wife for those first ever homebrews i was touting. Now, they felt properly chilled even if I only left them in fridge for 24hrs (which i should have been more patient with, granted); but there should have been some little activity showing, like slight foam even if mathematically undercarbonated, no?

I added a second Coopers drop in 2 room-temp bottles, dumped a 1/2 broken Coppers drop in another and left the other 5 intact. How do you guys handle bottle priming in 450-500ml swingtops?

That's strange. If you put the drop in, had a good seal on the caps, and left them in a warm spot, you should have carbonation. I'm guessing that you didn't brew something like a sour or some old ale that's been conditioning for a year or so in the carboy.

I've never used the coopers drops, but I have used sugar cubes to bottle prime all my small batches. The ones in the yellow Domino's box are perfect for 12oz (350ml) bottles, one per. You might want to try the larger ones from C&H in the pink box, they're about right for 16oz bottles (500ml) but they don't fit nicely into the bottle mouths.

I'd guess you've got a bad seal on the swingtops - either the rubber pad is shot, or the arm is not applying enough pressure to the lid and you're venting slowly.

:mug:
 
That's strange. If you put the drop in, had a good seal on the caps, and left them in a warm spot, you should have carbonation. I'm guessing that you didn't brew something like a sour or some old ale that's been conditioning for a year or so in the carboy.



I've never used the coopers drops, but I have used sugar cubes to bottle prime all my small batches. The ones in the yellow Domino's box are perfect for 12oz (350ml) bottles, one per. You might want to try the larger ones from C&H in the pink box, they're about right for 16oz bottles (500ml) but they don't fit nicely into the bottle mouths.



I'd guess you've got a bad seal on the swingtops - either the rubber pad is shot, or the arm is not applying enough pressure to the lid and you're venting slowly.



:mug:


Very possible, i didnt think of that! The two i popped were swingtops given to me by a friend. Ill have a look as you might be right!
 
Like sumbrewindude said the bottles should be left in a warm spot. While 3 weeks at most room temps should be long enough if the bottles are stored too cool 3 weeks could still be too short. I doubt this is the issue but something is off. Even 1 coopers tab in a bomber will have some carbonation.
 
Just looking through my NB catalog and see they have 1 gallon starter kits and another setup that's 4 gallon carboys, airlocks, blow tubes for $50 or something. $100 might get you both setups, 5 one gallon batches split from a 5 gallon brew day to try other drop hops, yeasts, etc. Heck whipping up a couple 1 gallon batches some evening would be simple and really cheap with various grains. It just makes me have to bottle (which I have never done). This might get thrown on my Christmas list.
 
Amazing the things you can find just by talking with people at work...

I ended up with 4 1gal glass carboys for free from a guy that does wine and has moved up to barrels. Also found some new folks that are interested in brewing, but nervous to start! Guess who's going to have a brew day with some new friends that will be talking some projects home with them... :D

I think I'll save two of the bottles so I can run some experiments with sours and my wild yeast I collected this fall.
 
Amazing the things you can find just by talking with people at work...

I ended up with 4 1gal glass carboys for free from a guy that does wine and has moved up to barrels. Also found some new folks that are interested in brewing, but nervous to start! Guess who's going to have a brew day with some new friends that will be talking some projects home with them... :D

I think I'll save two of the bottles so I can run some experiments with sours and my wild yeast I collected this fall.


Cool way to share the hobby!
 
I am going to be doing 1 gallon batches for a little while, until I get my AG setup finished. I am able to brew 1 gal AG with the current equipment I have and will allow me to experiment. I have been afraid to experiment with 5 gallon batches, a few messed up batches could take a toll on the pocket.
 
Amazing the things you can find just by talking with people at work...

I ended up with 4 1gal glass carboys for free from a guy that does wine and has moved up to barrels. Also found some new folks that are interested in brewing, but nervous to start! Guess who's going to have a brew day with some new friends that will be talking some projects home with them... :D

I think I'll save two of the bottles so I can run some experiments with sours and my wild yeast I collected this fall.


Wish you were near Kansas City :mug:
 
1 gallon or 2?

Found a $15 2 gallon cooler I could use as a MT, just get a BIAB bag to use as the filter. If I am going to that, why not just go BIAB and use my 4 gallon pot I already have?? I have never done BIAB, but a quick search for videos should solve that. So putting my kettle in the oven to hold temps sounds simple, IIRC my oven only goes down to 170

Colman.jpg
 
1 gallon or 2?

Found a $15 2 gallon cooler I could use as a MT, just get a BIAB bag to use as the filter. If I am going to that, why not just go BIAB and use my 4 gallon pot I already have?? I have never done BIAB, but a quick search for videos should solve that. So putting my kettle in the oven to hold temps sounds simple, IIRC my oven only goes down to 170

I am starting to tinker with mine. I first tried a paint strainer bag, but I found the sparge process to be a little slow through the spigot, so I ended up doing a 3 part sparge (sparge, dump, sparge, rinse and repeat). I am going to see if I cant get the built-in spigot to work better for my next gallon batch, hopefully this weekend.
 
1 gallon or 2?

Found a $15 2 gallon cooler I could use as a MT, just get a BIAB bag to use as the filter. If I am going to that, why not just go BIAB and use my 4 gallon pot I already have?? I have never done BIAB, but a quick search for videos should solve that. So putting my kettle in the oven to hold temps sounds simple, IIRC my oven only goes down to 170

BIAB is very easy.. Whether you decide to go that route or whether you end up purchasing that cooler as a MT, get a BIAB bag.. you'll find it very useful for all sorts of things
 
I want to start making all grain small batches in my kitched 2.5 gallons seems ideal. I currently brew 5 gallon extract batches but just want something simple I can do more often but using all grain. Where can I look to help me get started. Have thought about doing brew in a bag in the same pot I'll use as a kettle.

Go for it. Here is a short, LOL, video of my; method. I've since refined it to 1.9 gallons giving me 3 six packs.

 
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BIAB is very easy.. Whether you decide to go that route or whether you end up purchasing that cooler as a MT, get a BIAB bag.. you'll find it very useful for all sorts of things
leaning away from the cooler for a MT and just getting a bag and trying out a simple batch. Part of me is saying to just use my 5 gallon bucket to ferment a couple gallons before buying any smaller pieces. I think eventually I will stick to 1 gallon batches over 2
 
leaning away from the cooler for a MT and just getting a bag and trying out a simple batch. Part of me is saying to just use my 5 gallon bucket to ferment a couple gallons before buying any smaller pieces. I think eventually I will stick to 1 gallon batches over 2

Go for it. I used to ferment 2.5 gallon batches in my 5 gallon carboy. Of course, I didn't leave it in the carboy for any long time conditioning.

I highly recommend the 2 gallon buckets for 1 gallon to 1.5 gallon batches.
 
leaning away from the cooler for a MT and just getting a bag and trying out a simple batch. Part of me is saying to just use my 5 gallon bucket to ferment a couple gallons before buying any smaller pieces. I think eventually I will stick to 1 gallon batches over 2


To be honest, 1 gallon carboys are pretty annoying. Hard to clean, almost always needs a blowoff tube, after which the tube itself becomes a pain to clean. If you want my advice, get a Mr Beer little brown keg, you ll have the option to do 1, 1.5 or 2 gal batches with little hassle and easier bottling.

I did want to try a small batch in my 5gal fermenter, but i was told to avoid anything smaller than 2 or 2.5 gal in them: too much headroom means less chance for the CO2 to protect & isolate the batch from possible contamination if the lid is open.

Im considering getting a second mr beer keg to get things rolling and not have to apprehend the cleaning or even the bottling processes.
 
Im considering getting a second mr beer keg to get things rolling and not have to apprehend the cleaning or even the bottling processes.

I see Mr. Beer kits for sale on Craigslist all the time...if I didn't already have the 2 gallon buckets, I'd buy a Mr. Beer Kit just to get the little brown keg.
 
A friends Mom works at a local grocery store bakery and he is going to ask about icing buckets they tend to toss daily. I have heard those are 2-2.5 gallons. I think Home Depot sells food grade buckets that small cheap also
 
Trying to set up a beersmith profile, do you still do a 60 mash and minute boil? I am doing BIAB with a 4 gallon kettle.

Heck if anyone wants to share their BIAB profile I would be even happier. I will search this thread for these answers as well.
 
Trying to set up a beersmith profile, do you still do a 60 mash and minute boil? I am doing BIAB with a 4 gallon kettle.

Heck if anyone wants to share their BIAB profile I would be even happier. I will search this thread for these answers as well.


Yep, it s still 60mins mash or boil, although some ppl don t mash out.

Those 2.5-3gal buckets are perfect. I read that food-grade is what u want, but #1, 2 and 4 plastics are fine. In fact, #2 would be the better of the three options. Not sure how food-grade differentiates itself tho. Please someone correct me if im wrong, or add your own explanations or thoughts
 
Home Depot or Lowes sells the 2.5 gallon #2 buckets/lids. I am waiting to see if a friend can source me a couple, but I may just go buy them so I can try this over the weekend if my LHBS has a BIAB bag. That's all I am missing is a bag, bucket and ingredients.

Side note, this will be awesome for my club comps when I don't want to make 5 gallons of a certain style or the ingredients get spendy.
 
Didn't boil in the bag. Going from the rest to mash out caused a few hot spots that caused the grain to rise. I messed up and set the bag in a dish next to the burner the wind kicked up and consequently burned my bag. Thanks for watching the video
 
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