pitching yeast before bottling?

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dhanley1

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Im sure this is a common question but you will have to forgive me as i am new at this. I am just curious as to which circumstances call for more yeast before bottling. MY beer is becoming more clear due to the yeast dropping out of it id imagine and i am just wondering if i should be worried about the amount of yeast in the beer for carbonation.
 
It's pretty rare that you would need to. You might consider it on a high gravity beer like a barleywine that has aged for many months, or some folks pitch more yeast after lagering.
 
I just brewed a big beer. OG 1.1 and FG 1.02.

I bottled it using just priming sugar, and it came out flat.

New to me too about pitching yeast at bottling.
If brewing big beer, how much yeast should be pitched and when? Day if bottling?
All the yeast dropped out, could there still be ferment able sugars left behind or does it only drop out after eating all the sugar available?
 
FlecksBrewHouse said:
I just brewed a big beer. OG 1.1 and FG 1.02.

I bottled it using just priming sugar, and it came out flat.

New to me too about pitching yeast at bottling.
If brewing big beer, how much yeast should be pitched and when? Day if bottling?
All the yeast dropped out, could there still be ferment able sugars left behind or does it only drop out after eating all the sugar available?

Big beers take much longer to carb. Could take several months! Some advocate adding the tiniest pinch of yeast just prior to bottling to ensure viable yeast for carbing, but this isn't common unless big, long aged beers.

Beers that have clearer/floculated, still have plenty of yeast in them to bottle carb.

In your case, I'd give it at least 2 months before you think about opening all of your bottles to add new yeast.
 
I'm probable going to leave 24 in bottles and open and keg the rest. Patience patience patience I guess.
 
I'm probable going to leave 24 in bottles and open and keg the rest. Patience patience patience I guess.

Pouring them all in a keg will probably lead to a lot of oxidation. If you're going to open them I would just sprinkle a few granules of dry yeast in every bottle and recap.
 
What does oxidization do? Someone else told me that too.
If I dump them into keg and then full with CO2, I don't understand the issue.
Ill investigate this myself, but if u got good explanation that be cool.
 
FlecksBrewHouse said:
What does oxidization do? Someone else told me that too.
If I dump them into keg and then full with CO2, I don't understand the issue.
Ill investigate this myself, but if u got good explanation that be cool.

Dude your asking the same questions in multiple locations

Oxidation creates off flavors such as sherry like or wet cardboard. Here's a great resource:
http://www.beerjudgeschool.com/uploads/Beer_Characteristics_Flash_Cards.pdf

Pouring your beer into a keg will add oxygen and oxygen, post fermentation is just bad. Oxidized beer is not instant, it takes a little time to show up but when it does your beer becomes un-drinkable so avoid introducing oxygen post fermentation.

Your beer will carbonate in the bottles but that big a beer will take a while so be patient. If you can't be patient you won't make good/great beer and should find a different hobby:D
 
Yes I plant this question in different locations to get a good feed back.
I can be patient. I just figured the carbonation portion took place in first 2 weeks of bottling, then it would age. Now I know that the carbonation process can take a lot longer than 2 weeks.

Appreciate the info and sorry if you don't like that I've posted on multiple places.
 
So... I talked to another source.

When this big beer was brewed, there was many others that were using the same wort off a brewery mash-ton. He knew the yeast better than I did.
Turns out the yeast was only good to 10-11%, and that's why still sugary and flat. He had same issue, but instead of bottling it because it stopped fermenting, he added a high gravity yeast to finish off the sugars. He said its dropped the sweet taste and finishing off those sugars.

So. ... If I let my beer with the original yeast that doesn't work well with higher alcohol beer, sit, will it still eventually eat all the sugar or will I still be stuck with sweet taste?
I believe it does sound better to use other yeast to continue the fermentation. He said if I poured the beers out of bottles, slowly into fermentor, added new yeast starter, and let it finish, will come out much better.

I have the patience, just looking for best method. I didn't have choice on original yeast because it was a group brew at a brewery and I didn't know what it was.
I flipped the bottles in my batch to get yeast to float down and help keep it going. I'm going to take 18 beers out of batch, pour out into bucket, and add the higher gravity yeast and let it finish. Plan on drinking both in a couple months and see the difference.

Comments?
 
FlecksBrewHouse said:
So... I talked to another source. When this big beer was brewed, there was many others that were using the same wort off a brewery mash-ton. He knew the yeast better than I did. Turns out the yeast was only good to 10-11%, and that's why still sugary and flat. He had same issue, but instead of bottling it because it stopped fermenting, he added a high gravity yeast to finish off the sugars. He said its dropped the sweet taste and finishing off those sugars. So. ... If I let my beer with the original yeast that doesn't work well with higher alcohol beer, sit, will it still eventually eat all the sugar or will I still be stuck with sweet taste? I believe it does sound better to use other yeast to continue the fermentation. He said if I poured the beers out of bottles, slowly into fermentor, added new yeast starter, and let it finish, will come out much better. I have the patience, just looking for best method. I didn't have choice on original yeast because it was a group brew at a brewery and I didn't know what it was. I flipped the bottles in my batch to get yeast to float down and help keep it going. I'm going to take 18 beers out of batch, pour out into bucket, and add the higher gravity yeast and let it finish. Plan on drinking both in a couple months and see the difference. Comments?

So I just answered your other question in the other forum and it's completely different question than this one-my pint is that if you post a question in one forum you get answers in one location and people can follow along and keep things straight-now you are posting different scenarios in different locations and really just confusing the issue!

Again-pouring your beer out to re-ferment is just inviting oxidation issues and it will ultimately ruin your beer. But hey, it's your beer:)
 
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