Water Profile after filtration?

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beergutbrew

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What happens to my water profile if I run it through a charcoal filter?
Does it strip it of everything?
Does it just get rid of chlorine?

Or should I just go with the water report and adjust it from there without running it through the filter?

I haven't been able to brew a hoppy beer, so my water profile does not suit my taste. Just as a test I added 5 oz+ of hops to a pale ale recipe and it tasted like a ordinary mild pale ale. Beersmith calculated I should have been in the 80-100 ibu range, tasted like it was around 15 ibu.

I'll dig up the report and post it later.

I did read this thread and other but still have questions:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/what-does-basic-line-rv-filter-do-346509/

Waiting patiently for this after seeing his Northern Brewer video:
'Water: A Comprehensive Guide for Brewers' by John Palmer
 
A charcoal filter removes chlorine, chloramine and organics. You shouldn't have any of the latter (things that render your water tasting musty, moldy, earthy...) unless you are on a well. It does not change the mineral profile.
 
A few questions:
1. How old are your hops?
2. How do you store them?
3. Could you post a hop schedule for your Pale Ale recipe?
 
10 lbs Rahr 2-row Pale
1 lbs. Belgian Caramel Pils
0.25 lbs. Briess Caramel 120
3 oz. Chinook(60 min) Normal reciped called for 1.5oz
1 oz. Chinook(20 min) Normal reciped called for .5 oz
1 oz. Chinook(5 min)

Hops were purchased from Freshhops.com stated new crop of that year.

Like I said I just threw the hops at it just to test. I added the water additions that Bru'n water said I needed(backed up what beersmith said also) based on my water report.

The beer itself was good, just not hoppy like the above
 
You should have gotten good bittering from that.

If you want more hop flavor and aroma, you need to move those additions later in the boil. I've gotten great results with a 60 min bittering, a big 15 min addition and then another addition after I've chilled the wort to 175F, whirlpooled for 15 mins.

What does your water report say for CaCl and CaSO4?
 
That filter COULD remove chlorine, chloramine, and organics. If the flow rate is too high, it may not. Surface water can have organic constituents that produce poor taste. Any water can have organics that you may not want to drink.

The OP didn't indicate what the tap water quality is. I suspect that the sulfate level may not be up to a level that accentuates the bittering and hoppiness. But looking at the recipe, I'd also say that the hopping schedule does not include enough late hopping nor dry hopping. In addition, Chinook may not provide the hop flavor and aroma that is desired. A more traditional flavor and aroma hop like Centennial or Cascade might be utilized at 0 minutes and/or dry hopping to create the hoppiness desired.
 
Sodium Na: 5
Calcium Ca: 42
Chloride Cl4: 7
Magnesium Mg: 5
Sulfate SO4: 4
Total Alk: 126
Total Hard: 124
pH: 7.4
 
Those are very modest chloride and sulfate levels. More importantly, that alkalinity is too high for a pale beer. Even hardening that water with a good dose of gypsum left the residual alkalinity too high for a pale beer and the mash pH is probably not going to fall into a desirable range. If you don't have some now...acid is going to become your best brewing buddy. I assume that Bru'n Water already pointed this out for you.

I like the Pale Ale water profile in Bru'n Water for hoppy beers, but you may want to moderate that if you don't like a good dose of sulfate. That sulfate level is not extreme in that profile and doesn't tend to produce sulfury effects in the finished beer, but you may find that you prefer a lesser concentration.
 
I bought some Lactic acid and will give it a try this weekend. I can see why Palmer has worked on his Water book for so long, water chemistry is a pain in the ass.
 
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