For other beers, yes, whirfloc or Irish moss can help. Quicker chilling from the kettle to the fermenter, to promote a better cold break, can help. Also, giving the beer more time in primary, or sometimes a secondary, can also prove beneficial - basically, it's the extra time that will help yeast and other sediments drop out of your beer before you package it.
I had a problem with cloudy beer very early on. I was cooling my wort down to room temperature in less than 6 minutes, I tried to leave the hot break in the boil pot. It eventually came down to not boiling vigoriously enough. I was so paranoid about boiling over in my basement that I wasn't cranking the heat enough. As soon as I moved out into my garage and started boiling at much higher temps I noticed an immediate improvement in my beer clarity.
I had a problem with cloudy beer very early on. I was cooling my wort down to room temperature in less than 6 minutes, I tried to leave the hot break in the boil pot. It eventually came down to not boiling vigoriously enough. I was so paranoid about boiling over in my basement that I wasn't cranking the heat enough. As soon as I moved out into my garage and started boiling at much higher temps I noticed an immediate improvement in my beer clarity.
6 mins?!? I have a high flow wort chiller AND I pack ice around it and it still takes me 20 mins. How did you cool it this quick?
Also any thoughts on how LME vs DME effects chill haze? Irish Moss vs Wirlflock?
I have been looking because my most recent IPA was crystal clear in my secondary and I just went to drink my first one (keg) and it was EXTREMELY cloudy. Reading above, it sounds like I just need to wait. But I have recently switched to DME and wirlflock as opposed to LME and Irish Moss. Any thoughts?
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