New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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This went into the kegerator and straight onto a tap after naturally carbing in my 65F basement for six days, with the second load of dry hops. The line clearing sample tasted great, and fully carbonated, even warm. And the good thing about naturally carbing the keg is that it's ready to drink sooner than set and forget carbing (I suspect 3 days would be sufficient).

Well, it's cold now...

View attachment 1500501725359.jpg
 
Just put 1 oz. Citra/ .5 oz. mosaic/ .5 oz. simcoe (all YCH Cryohops) into the dry hop keg on day 11. I'll report back next week


is this your serving keg just a dryhop keg? is it carbonating at the same time? i'm interested in the flavor of keg-hopped beers with pellets vs cryohops when serving with the hops in the keg
 
Just dryhop keg. I do the screened diptube inside the 30 micron hop cylinder bit. (Works like a charm BTW). Was planning on transferring to serving keg Saturday, naturally carbing for a week at room temp, and then force carbing after if needed.
My whirlpool and 1st dryhop were regular pellets. Wasnt able to get cryos until yesterday (through Austin HB)
 
Just dryhop keg. I do the screened diptube inside the 30 micron hop cylinder bit. (Works like a charm BTW). Was planning on transferring to serving keg Saturday, naturally carbing for a week at room temp, and then force carbing after if needed.
My whirlpool and 1st dryhop were regular pellets. Wasnt able to get cryos until yesterday (through Austin HB)

well, let us know how the cryohop dryhop is compared with pellets if you think you can compare.
 
Final dry hop tomorrow.
2 questions. Would you recommend cold crash for a day or 2 to let the yeast and hops settle to allow for a cleaner co2 transfer?
Also would you naturally carb this as I have no free gas line/fridge for another 2 weeks and will be kegging it Monday. Or just seal with co2 and wait?
Has to be ready for the 9th August
 
Final dry hop tomorrow.
2 questions. Would you recommend cold crash for a day or 2 to let the yeast and hops settle to allow for a cleaner co2 transfer?
Also would you naturally carb this as I have no free gas line/fridge for another 2 weeks and will be kegging it Monday. Or just seal with co2 and wait?
Has to be ready for the 9th August

Naturally carb it. There's two reasons:
1) natural carbing will use up oxygen introduced in transfer to the keg
2) when you have a tap and gas line free, it'll already be carbed, and you can start drinking as soon as it's cold enough for you.

I'd naturally carb even if I had a tap open - on top of the oxygen removal, it's somewhat faster IME than set and forget carbing, and less work than force carbing.
 
Naturally carb it. There's two reasons:

1) natural carbing will use up oxygen introduced in transfer to the keg

2) when you have a tap and gas line free, it'll already be carbed, and you can start drinking as soon as it's cold enough for you.



I'd naturally carb even if I had a tap open - on top of the oxygen removal, it's somewhat faster IME than set and forget carbing, and less work than force carbing.
30 psi overnight is faster

are people noticing longer drinking time on a keg with natural carbonation in the keg?
 
Also if naturally carving how much sugar would you recommend on a 19litre corny keg as I've read you use less than bottle priming

how about a cold crash whilst final dry hopping?
 
Third brew overall and first NE IPA. This is the hydrometer sample so some of the hop particles are sitting at the bottom of the glass. Kegging and carbing tonight. Flavor is awesome. Used the recipe from post 1418 but could not get galaxy hops so I used amarillo (citra/mosaic/amarillo). Used distilled water with the water profile suggested. Mouthfeel is soft and silky. Very happy with this so far!

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Just put 1 oz. Citra/ .5 oz. mosaic/ .5 oz. simcoe (all YCH Cryohops) into the dry hop keg on day 11. I'll report back next week

Nice! I'm about to try this. I'm gonna leave the cryohops in the keg tho, I had to buy some after reading the latest NEIPA The Mad Fermentationist post. Mike said it made his best NEIPA yet.
 
I'd love to see the results of 68 throughout and 98 throughout...

Better late than never! I finally got around to brewing yesterday and the Omega Hothead (OYL-057) temp experiment is underway. 5G is sitting at 67. The other 5G is at 90. I measure temp from the outside of the carboy so I wanted to leave a little cushion. If I targeted 98, I probably would be over 100 and Omega wouldn't get a fair shake. I'll post back with results as soon as it's ready :mug:
 
This is turning out incredible! Tropical galore! FG was really high, 1.022 but the sweetness goes well for sure. No diacetyl.

are you bottling? do you store your bottles all cold or warm after you know carbonation has occurred? thinking about doing a keg natural carbonation for my Pliny clone from this weekend. Scared to death of diacetyl!
 
are you bottling? do you store your bottles all cold or warm after you know carbonation has occurred? thinking about doing a keg natural carbonation for my Pliny clone from this weekend. Scared to death of diacetyl!

Yes I'm bottling now since the keggorator died. Neither batch has diacetyl. Sticking with bottling for now.
 
I'm a bit worried about the oxidation issues with this beer style as I only bottle. I was going to wait until I put a kegging system together but God knows how long that ill take.

So I'll brew a half batch and bring most of it to a party do drink it up quickly.
Then keep about 10 bottle and sample one a week (for the sake of science ;)) to monitor how it develops over time.

Anyway I will use 1318 but need advice on which hops.
Looking at my stock for 2 of the 3 hops I would like to use El Dorado and Vic Secret before they get too old and then I need to decide on the third hop from:

Simcoe, Chinook, Galaxy, Cascade, Citra, Ella, Topaz, Summit, Soarchi Ace, Calypso, Belma

Any advice/experience would be appreciated :mug:

Looking at my stock again any combo of these ones would be even better for using up aging hops:

Galaxy, Cascade, Topaz, Summit, Soarchi Ace, Belma, El Dorado, Vic Secret

:)
 
I'm a bit worried about the oxidation issues with this beer style as I only bottle. I was going to wait until I put a kegging system together but God knows how long that ill take.

So I'll brew a half batch and bring most of it to a party.
Keep about 10 bottle and sample one a week (for the sake of science ;)) to monitor how it develops over time.

Anyway I will use 1318 but need advice on which hops.
Looking at my stock for 2 of the 3 hops I would like to use El Dorado and Vic Secret before they get too old and then I need to decide on the third hop from:

Simcoe, Chinook, Galaxy, Cascade, Citra, Ella, Topaz, Summit, Soarchi Ace, Calypso, Belma

Any advice/experience would be appreciated :mug:

Citra, Galaxy or Simcoe jump out as good ones - not sure which ones play best with your other two though.

Summit can be solid if it is good quality.

Cascade and Calypso might be ok, but perhaps too low key and might get lost.

Not much experience with Ella, Topaz or Sorachi Ace

I would probably pass over Chinook or Belma
 
Citra, Galaxy or Simcoe jump out as good ones - not sure which ones play best with your other two though.

Summit can be solid if it is good quality.

Cascade and Calypso might be ok, but perhaps too low key and might get lost.

Not much experience with Ella, Topaz or Sorachi Ace

I would probably pass over Chinook or Belma

wow that was quick; you answered even before I finished my edit :)
The summit is good; bought a pound of it used in about 5 beers at all stages without any onion notes.
 
This is turning out incredible! Tropical galore! FG was really high, 1.022 but the sweetness goes well for sure. No diacetyl.

Sampled mine before kegging yesterday
Agreed totally tropical amazing
Took me back to my childhood drink Um Bongo
Thx for all your help Braufessor :tank:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPGl420DoeU[/ame]
 
I'm going to post this reply I gave to a fella wondering if he should start dry hopping his IPA after 14days in primary on the 'Fellowship of the Home Brew I' page. This reply is about quick grain to bottle turn around along with the Cryo hop learning experience.
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It gets better. I used 1318, London Ale for the first time. I was committed to the time frame, but just ensuring no off flavors first so started cold crashing on day 7.

When popping the top on day 8, there was still some activity going on....humm. OG=1.063. FG=1.022. ABV=5.25%. Sampled fine tho with no diacetyl! Transferred to bottling bucket. This was my first time using Cryo hops and from what I read, I smashed them up, added to bottling bucket, ran a CO2 line into the bucket and bubbled the daylights out of it for 10min (again what I read). That's when all hell broke loose.

These Cryo hops are more like hop pellets then some powder that dissolves in ones beer, as I thought. So I needed to filter out the material. I grabbed a bucket and used my large SS hop strainer, put the CO2 line in this bucket and while pouring, again, had CO2 blasting. Had to leave the room a few times to catch my breath!

Did the same thing back into the bottling bucket. So yesterday, now on day 6, took sample to LHBS guys and asked for off flavor checks. They loved this IPA with no oxidation or other nasties. In case one is wondering, I always sanitize the **** out of everything joking that with every bottle of my HB one drinks a shot of Starsans!

I should bring some to the Pint House Pizza brewers for an opinion...but I usually stay and get tanked, so IDK just yet.

Hope this helps any concerns.
 
no judgment, just wondering if the diacetyl is being eaten in the bottle continuously as it is stored warm

Okay, I understand your questioning now. I've never, except maybe way in the beginning of HBing, had diacetyl after primary fermentation. It only came after I started kegging. My "NO DIACETYL!" comment was due to the fact after 2 days and now 6 days, there is no sign while bottling. Whereas after kegging, it would take 2-4days, the butter flavor and the silky feel would start forming. That was our whole discussion a month or so ago on this tread.
 
Okay, I understand your questioning now. I've never, except maybe way in the beginning of HBing, had diacetyl after primary fermentation. It only came after I started kegging. My "NO DIACETYL!" comment was due to the fact after 2 days and now 6 days, there is no sign while bottling. Whereas after kegging, it would take 2-4days, the butter flavor and the silky feel would start forming. That was our whole discussion a month or so ago on this tread.

A couple of months ago I spoke to a fairly prominent NE brewer who mentioned that he would have QC induced sleepless nights allowing beer to be canned and sold on the same day. He said off flavors can develop after packaging and once the beer is released into the wild, there is no way to get it all back without reputation damage. Just goes to show you that this is a real thing that even some of the best brewers are concerned about...so it is a thing.

What I finally noticed this year is that I have had diacetyl issues with making NEIPAs from January - April and I believe its due largely to the fact that my yeast is propagated at ambient basement temperature (59-62F, I know..duh?!?) and has been too cold. Therefore my pitching rate is not what I had thought it would be. That combined with the fact that for this style, at least with 1318 and Conan, aeration/oxygenation is SUPER important whereas in other styles, I have been able to get away with my normal aeration/oxygenation practices. My last NEIPA with 1318 was excellent but I may be over this yeast on a home brewing level cause I just don't brew often enough to keep it optimal.
 
A couple of months ago I spoke to a fairly prominent NE brewer who mentioned that he would have QC induced sleepless nights allowing beer to be canned and sold on the same day. He said off flavors can develop after packaging and once the beer is released into the wild, there is no way to get it all back without reputation damage. Just goes to show you that this is a real thing that even some of the best brewers are concerned about...so it is a thing.

What I finally noticed this year is that I have had diacetyl issues with making NEIPAs from January - April and I believe its due largely to the fact that my yeast is propagated at ambient basement temperature (59-62F, I know..duh?!?) and has been too cold. Therefore my pitching rate is not what I had thought it would be. That combined with the fact that for this style, at least with 1318 and Conan, aeration/oxygenation is SUPER important whereas in other styles, I have been able to get away with my normal aeration/oxygenation practices. My last NEIPA with 1318 was excellent but I may be over this yeast on a home brewing level cause I just don't brew often enough to keep it optimal.

Also goes to show how important a fermentation chamber is to truly regulate temperatures.
 
I am going to be doing my second NE IPA soon, hopefully a clone of Bissell Brothers Reciprocal. The first time i got my town water report and used the water treatment section of my brewers friend. But I've been hearing a lot about RO water. Is bottled water at the market the same?
 
I am going to be doing my second NE IPA soon, hopefully a clone of Bissell Brothers Reciprocal. The first time i got my town water report and used the water treatment section of my brewers friend. But I've been hearing a lot about RO water. Is bottled water at the market the same?

* No, not necessarily the same. You would need to look at the jug and see if it says "Reverse Osmosis Filtered." If it does, then it is the same. Often though, "spring water" or similar type products are not RO and you may not even know what you are dealing with for mineral content. Most of the refill type machines are RO.

*Also.... what does your current tap water look like? May or may not even be necessary to use RO.
 
My tap water looks good, tastes ok. But I read so much about the water being very important in this style of beer. Before I made Substance I never even gave a second thought to my water. I still don't know the Ph, I'm getting some strips when I get the ingredients for the reciprocal clone.
From my town water report:

Sulfate 5.17
Mg .005
Ca 4.2
Chloride 26
Sodium 27
Hardness (CaCO3) 14
Alkalinity (PPM) 83

When you transfer to dry hopping keg and do a CO2 purge. Do you just rack the beer to the keg, add the dry hops, seal it up and give a quick blast with CO2 using the release valve to make sure its topped off?
 
My tap water looks good, tastes ok. But I read so much about the water being very important in this style of beer. Before I made Substance I never even gave a second thought to my water. I still don't know the Ph, I'm getting some strips when I get the ingredients for the reciprocal clone.
From my town water report:

Sulfate 5.17
Mg .005
Ca 4.2
Chloride 26
Sodium 27
Hardness (CaCO3) 14
Alkalinity (PPM) 83

When you transfer to dry hopping keg and do a CO2 purge. Do you just rack the beer to the keg, add the dry hops, seal it up and give a quick blast with CO2 using the release valve to make sure its topped off?

The strips really don't work very well at all.... if you get the really good colorphast strips, they are ok. Any other ones don't work at all basically. The color of the wort makes them about impossible to really read with any more accuracy than the estimation you have from a water calculator.

Your water is not bad at all really.... Personally, I would use a water calculator and dilute your water maybe 50/50 with RO water.... or even a little less would probably be fine to with 66/33 or 75/25- (high number being your tap water amount). Plug your water into calculator, plug in % dilution, put in the minerals you are adding and then perhaps a little bit of lactic acid to get your pH down under 5.4 and you should be in good shape.

If I am using a dry hopping keg I fill the keg with star san first and push all the water out with CO2 to get it as O2 free as I can. Once it is full, I do purge the remaining head space a few times with CO2 and then up the pressure a bit to seat the lid. Make sure you have screens on the dip tube if or hops in a bag if you are using a dry hop keg or it will plug up like no other when you try to transfer it.
 
My first attempt at a clone of Reciprocal - An all Australian DBL Dry Hopped Double IPA. How does this look?

From the Bissell Brothers web site I have this info:

Malts: Pilsner, Malted Wheat, Flaked oats & Caristan

Hops: Ella, Summer & Vic secret

OG 1.067, ABV 7.3%

From my research on this style from a great many recipes I've looked at. I've come up with this:

9 lbs Pilsner
4 lbs Wheat Malt
1 lb Flaked oats
1/2 lb Caristan

1/2 oz galaxy / mosaic @ 60 min
2 oz each (Ella, Summer & Vic secret) @ flame out
2 oz each @ 160 (stirring every 5 min or so)
drop to 64F then rack to primary & pitch

NOTE 1: Going to try using 100% RO water with a couple additions (some of my home brew friends question that this may be too pure and lack enough nutrients esp if you don’t get the additions correct). Vs the full water treatment I did with Substance.

NOTE 2: Seems that the hopping schedule I picked is another widely used type for this style (not written in stone as some do 20 & 10 min addition too like Substance). That's the thing no clue as to what Bissell actually does, trial & error I guess.

Primary dry hop ~ day 4 or 5 (whenever air lock bubbles slow down but are not stopped) with a combination of those 3 hops (that's one of my questions, TBD)

Second dry hop ~ day 10 ish xfer to dry hopping CO2 purged keg with same amount used for the primary dry hopping (TBD)

Day 12 cold crash

Day 13 rack to serving keg to carbonate.

Day 15 enjoy the hec out of it :)
 
I have been using Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra as my typical hop bill.

On my next brew of NEIPA, I am considering going with Galaxy/Mosaic/Amarillo. I am seeing if I can tone the grapefruit down a notch and hope someone that has tried this G/M/A combo will weigh in and give an experienced opinion.

Thanks!!!
 
I wouldn't call myself a hops expert, bit I don't get a lot of grapefruit from citra to delete it. Have you tried different G/M/C ratios before swapping out first?
 
I get more pineapple than anything from G/M/C. Try C/M/Azacca, i got wonderful tropical fruit flavors/aromas from that combo, i actually liked it a little better than C/M/G.
 
I have been using Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra as my typical hop bill.

On my next brew of NEIPA, I am considering going with Galaxy/Mosaic/Amarillo. I am seeing if I can tone the grapefruit down a notch and hope someone that has tried this G/M/A combo will weigh in and give an experienced opinion.

Thanks!!!

I have not tried that exact combo - but, it should be good. Personally, I get more grapefruit from galaxy than I do from Citra.
 
I basically followed the recipe on the front page, except I used nugget for bittering and I used all 2-row (local to Pennsylvania) instead of the MO/2-row blend.

Citra, Mosaic, and Simcoe hops, with a slightly different hop schedule as well.

It's only been in bottles for about 9 days, so it might not be fully carbed. It's got a major mango thing going on, which I think is being accentuated either by the sweetness of the honey malt or by any residual priming sugar that has not yet been eaten. It's quite appealing at this point. I hope it doesn't get much drier.

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