control boxLESS e-kettle?

Is it possible to not use a control box that is independent form the kettle and just use a bigger junction box on the kettle that lements runs to and wire up a PWM and SSR?

So the end result would be a larger box on the kettle with the knob for the PWM and an LED light to indicate it's powered. Then it plugs into the wall and you're set. I would use the theromometer on the kettle to indicate temp and use the dial on the PWM to adjust it up and down.

The downside is that is a hot place to have electronics. If you can figure out how to keep the SSR cool in that location it should be fine.

In theory it would be fine if you could make it completely water tight and not overheat. Frankly, I am pretty sure I'd want it separate, myself. But all of the components would fit in one of those smallish plastic project boxes you can find in the electrical department at menards/Lowes/HD.

I would not think that would be too wise a decision. In that case, you would definitely need it to be water tight given the proximity to a vessel containing liquid and the propensity for over spray during cleaning. So, as Homercidal stated, since the box is now water tight, all the heat generated by the SSR coupled with the radiant heat from the kettle would have nowhere to go and evenually your SSR will fail. I would strongly recommend to separate the control box from the kettle.

Homercidal said:

In theory it would be fine if you could make it completely water tight and not overheat. Frankly, I am pretty sure I'd want it separate, myself. But all of the components would fit in one of those smallish plastic project boxes you can find in the electrical department at menards/Lowes/HD.

Click to expand...

+1

You are subjecting that circuitry to a tough environment. I would minimize all-things-electrical that are permanently attached to the kettle.

Too much heat during boil and potential moisture during boil-over and wash-down.

To be fair the alternative of a simple pigtail or socket also needs to be protected from moisture.

But I wouldn't personally attempt this unless there was some compelling reason to do so.

Thanks fellas... I figured as much. I was snooping around EBAY for parts last week and noticed an ekettle for sale with this set up. I think they have heat sink on the bottom side of the box but not sure.

here...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRIC-10...657?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d514b9a9

SpartyParty said:

Thanks fellas... I figured as much. I was snooping around EBAY for parts last week and noticed an ekettle for sale with this set up. I think they have heat sink on the bottom side of the box but not sure.

here...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRIC-10-Gallon-Hot-Liquor-Tank-New-PLUG-BREW-/110949087657?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d514b9a9

Click to expand...

It looks like this element is not controlled by an SSR. Therefore no need for a heat sink. It doesn't say how the element is controlled. I also don't believe you're going to want to use this as a boil kettle. You'll be waiting a while. Again, these are my personal opinions, so do what feels right by you!

I've seen that element before that's in the eBay kettle, someone is selling them online. The knob built into it controls the heat, there are actually several versions depending on how much water you are heating. The one in that kettle is the smaller one that will not bring water to a boil, it's not designed too, just look at the eBay ad, it states 170 degrees.

http://www.apexbrewwares.com/Brewing-Equipment/Electric-Brewing/Electric-Brew-Heater-6-inch.html

Here is the one that I saw. They sell a larger version as well as stand alone units that hang over the edge of the kettle. This might be just what you are looking for. I've dealt with these guys before, they are a good company to deal with.

Simple PWM. That's a clean way to do it. Basically just turn the dial and monitor the thermometer.

1800w isn't going to get you to a boil anytime soon. I use a 1500w bucket heater in my hlt occasionally and it will get close to a boil....but it takes hours to do so.

blksabbath said:

Simple PWM. That's a clean way to do it. Basically just turn the dial and monitor the thermometer.

1800w isn't going to get you to a boil anytime soon. I use a 1500w bucket heater in my hlt occasionally and it will get close to a boil....but it takes hours to do so.

Click to expand...

I was not looking at buying that kettle and set up but rather build a bigger better version. I would want to use a 220v 4,500w element. I was just curious if anyone has tried this or not. For a boil kettle it just seems clean and easy. No need for a PID or a thermometer on a boil kettle if you ask me.

So it sounds like if you need/use an SSR this option is out but if no SSR is needed it might?

Thanks for the feed back

Well, here's the thing about boiling with a 4500W element. If you opt not to use a PID and SSR or some other method of controlling the power output of the element, you're going to have quite the violent boil going on. You'll end up wasting energy and boiling off a lot more than you would expect. I guess if you can figure out a way to reduce the power of the element once you reach boil, then you should, theoretically, be able to do what you're thinking.

If brewers use a PID on their boil kettle, they're using it in manual mode and then limiting the output percentage of the PID rather than using it in PID mode. (That won't work well once the boil temp is reached)