My One Vessel AG System
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blaster_54738
Well-Known Member
You'll still have to deal with the heat loss that he suffered. May want to look into a RIMS tube then. I sent metallhed the start of my control box, they aren't that difficult to build after you sit down and look at some wiring diagrams.
wobdee
Junior Member
Since I'm brewing on a 1800w induction plate I was thinking of turning it on low and circulate with a pump to maintain temps.
I was actually pretty surprised that my mash only dropped 2 degrees in 60 min in my kettle with the lid on and I didn't even turn the heat on. Maybe I don't even need the pump and just keep it simple.
blaster_54738
Well-Known Member
Nah make it complicated :rockin: I forgot about your induction plate. If you really wanted you could wire up a pid to that and have it turn the hot plate on and off when the temp gets low. Put the temp sensor in that open bung on your kettle.
Hermit
fuddle
What size batches do you do with the 1800 induction plate and what kind of times to reach boil? I'd think that size is right on the margin. Do you insulate your kettle at all?
wobdee
Junior Member
Hermit said:
I do 2.5 gal brews so I end up boiling down 3-4 gal. I did a 6 gl boil test when I first got it and it took an hour to get it up to boil. I also need to keep the lid on to keep a good rolling boil. No insulation yet but I've been thinking about it.
wobdee
Junior Member
blaster_54738 said:
Good idea
MetallHed
Well-Known Member
Don't listen to Dustin.. he makes everything complicated! :cross:
uberg33k
Well-Known Member
No, bad idea. Induction plates have controller boards, they aren't like heating elements. Once you cut the power to the plate, you kill the controller board. When it cuts back on, you'll have to wait for it to complete it's start up cycle, then put the set point temperature back in. You could attempt to replace the controller board entirely, but you'd have to design a PID that can drive a PWM circuit that will in turn drive a MOSFET into some scary current ranges for the home tinkerer (around 100A p-p). Also, you'll find that the magnetic field generated sometimes can do weird things to your thermometer and make accurate readings difficult.
Source: I tried working on this problem for 6 months before giving up.
wobdee
Junior Member
uberg33k said:
Good to know, thanks, I think I'll stick with the KISS method.
blaster_54738
Well-Known Member
Well then what is this guy using for his HLT on his HERMS system? Looks like an inducting plate to me?
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uberg33k
Well-Known Member
Rewatch the video and reread the comments. The plate under the HLT is a standard electric hot plate. It's not induction. The only induction plate in this system is the BK, which doesn't need a PID to control it.
I maintain my original comment that you aren't going to use an induction plate and a PID unless you're a EE and down to design some fancy circuits.
In this case, cheaper is better. A manual thermostat and power control will work, but an electronic control probably will not. If it you can cycle the power (unplug and plug it back in) without resetting controls then it should be fine for PID controller.
wobdee
Junior Member
I think the PID is hooked up to an ordinary electric hot plate that he uses for his mash recirculation system and the induction plate he uses for the boil isn't hooked up to the PID. Pretty cool system though.
blaster_54738
Well-Known Member
I must have missed that. I'm wasn't saying you're wrong as I've never used an induction plate but my basing was on that video and figuring it was an induction plate under his HLT.
Todd don't do my idea it won't work I guess lol
uberg33k
Well-Known Member
No worries. That video was the reason I started working on some kind of controller circuit for induction brewing. I failed miserably. I hope someone smarter than me can eventually figure it out.
Hermit
fuddle
I haven't worked on one of these things in years but it seems simply cutting one of the power leads to the pod should work. Again, it's been years since I worked on one of these things. They turned out to be real pigs, at least the earlier models. I had one dealer that still had some unsold in stock some 10 years later.
wobdee
Junior Member
Just brewed a batch today, 80% efficiency! Pretty much the same malt bill as a previous batch but the grains were milled at .035 instead of .045 and I think it made a big difference. Turned my APA of 1.050 into an extra APA of 1.057. Next time I'll try and split the difference and set my efficiency at 75% instead of 70%.
Marc77
Well-Known Member
It was mentioned earlier that you just drop your wort chiller into the wort 15 minutes before your boil ended. Have you done this? If so I'm thinking I'll model my upcoming set up on your design.
I've been banished to the garage after a remodel of the kitchen all because of one boil over. Bah! Anyway, I need to keep my space to an extreme minimum so an "all in one" system or as close to would benefit me tremendously. Especially since I'd like to get to BIAB.
wobdee
Junior Member
Yes, I use to stick my chiller in the boiling wort about 15 minutes before the end but now I just wait till flame out because the boil stops as soon as you stick all that relatively cooler copper in there and I feel if you just spray your chiller with some starsan and stick it in at FO it should be fine.
I've been banished from the kitchen many years ago so I feel your pain. This system works great in my basement but I also have a water source, large tub and drain so I don't have to trash the upstairs kitchen.
Dynachrome
Well-Known Member
Anyone have a brand/model for that metallic quilt thingy?
wobdee
Junior Member
Are you talking about the insulation wrap around the kettle in the video? I think it's refletix insulation? It's basically a plastic bubble wrap inside a reflective coating.
I've thought about wrapping my kettle with it but my kettle holds the heat pretty well for a good hour and I can always turn the heat on to give it a boost as needed.
wobdee
Junior Member
Last batch was a Red Ale with an OG of 1.063. I hit 75% efficiency. This system is getting easier and easier, took about 3 hours total brew day. Next up is a 1.070 black IPA.
I got a feeling my efficiency is going to end up around 70-80% depending on the amount of grains used. It seems with most BIAB brewers the higher the malt bill the lower the efficiencies and so far my system has reflected the same.
Maybe I need to thin out my larger batches and boil longer than 60 min to even out my efficiencies?
I got a feeling my efficiency is going to end up around 70-80% depending on the amount of grains used. It seems with most BIAB brewers the higher the malt bill the lower the efficiencies and so far my system has reflected the same.
Maybe I need to thin out my larger batches and boil longer than 60 min to even out my efficiencies?
wobdee
Junior Member
Brewed my Black IPA yesterday and hit all my numbers and got 76% efficiency. Another great brew day!
This is pretty cool. Thanks for sharing it.
wobdee
Junior Member
I give it a good stir while chillin then let it sit and clear for about 10 minutes before racking to the fermenter. I think a good vigorous stir while chilling also helps oxygenate the wort.
Since I've been using the hop basket there hasn't been much gunk or break material as there use to be.
Carlscan26
Well-Known Member
Skidsmint said:
Skidsmint - where did you get the coupling/mount for the element and that PID unit?
It's actually a brew heater that fits on the side of a kettle. I bought it from my local brew store. The rest of the stainless piping I got from Amazon. The PID is a sous vide unit I got from ebay. My Hefe came in at 85% efficiency @ 1.055 OG.
wobdee
Junior Member
Nice setup Skidsmint, thanks for sharing.
MagicSmoker
Well-Known Member
Pure genius, wobdee! Especially the use of a BBQ grate to drain the grains from the basket! I am very pleased with my 4 x 10 hops filter from Chad so I am definitely going to have him make me a BIAB basket.
One question I don't think was answered in this thread is what are the actual dimensions of the basket you had made? Is this going to be a standard item from Chad, or is each one pretty much a custom job?
Anyway, thanks for sharing your experience!
One question I don't think was answered in this thread is what are the actual dimensions of the basket you had made? Is this going to be a standard item from Chad, or is each one pretty much a custom job?
Anyway, thanks for sharing your experience!
Iceman6409
Well-Known Member
What is a rough cost on the screen basket?
wobdee
Junior Member
My basket is 13" wide by 10" tall. I had him make it so it would fit my 8 gl Mega Pot I purchased from Morebeer. It could of been an inch wider diameter to fit snuggly right up against the sides of my kettle but I wanted a little space for my kettles dip tube which I ended replacing with a short brass 90 degree elbow. I probably could of made it an inch taller as well but it's not really needed since I brew 2.5 gl batches. The most grains I've brewed with so far is 8lbs but I could easily double that if needed.
I don't know if he came up with standard sizes since there are so many different sized kettles out there. Last he told me was the cost would be around $100 depending on the size and other options like a squeeze plate or any other mods you can think of.
Give Chad a call, he's a good guy and is willing to work with you. It would be interesting to know how many of these he has made and sold since my prototype.
kombat
Well-Known Member
Won't that trap DMS in the wort? Everything I've read says that it's crucial to conduct the boil uncovered.
MagicSmoker
Well-Known Member
Mine is going to be 11" diameter by 15" tall with a swinging handle and squeeze plate for $125 + shipping. This sounds pricey at first, but I actually expect this thing to pay for itself over time. I don't like to reuse the paint strainer filter for mashing (it's too much of a pain to try to get all of the grain out of them, I feel) and I don't trust them to not get burned or otherwise do something funny during the boil. Finally, using the BIAB filter basket during mashing *and* boiling should reduce the amount of wort volume lost to trub without requiring any tedious whirlpooling, etc. All in all, I see a significant reduction in the less fun parts of brewing as a result of this BIAB basket filter from Chad. Now, let's see if the reality is as good as my imagination :fro:
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wobdee
Junior Member
kombat said:
It's not totally covered, I leave a 2-3 inch gap open on one side.
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