How to add permanent volume markings to a kettle (illustrated)

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Did mine last night. Tried to use the trickle charger for my scooter and it didn't work. Switched to the OPs method with the 9 volt battery and everything went smooth.

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I've seen some people have done this on a Bayou Classic. How have they held up to this process?
I have the 9 gallon Bayou Classic and would love to try this, but I suspect it isn't the best quality stainless steal. It is magnetic.
 
I've seen some people have done this on a Bayou Classic. How have they held up to this process?
I have the 9 gallon Bayou Classic and would love to try this, but I suspect it isn't the best quality stainless steal. It is magnetic.

Well, I hope the 9 gallon bayou classic holds up because that's what mine is!
 
Very nice, itsgus. I would like to know, however, how you knew where the markings needed to go? I'm assuming you didn't put a gallon in and then try to etch at the edge of the liquid.


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Well, I hope the 9 gallon bayou classic holds up because that's what mine is!

Awesome, you can be my test subject! But seriously what are you doing to prevent rusting, if anything? And PLEASE let me know if you see any potential problems.

Tapout, there have been several post about marking your volume measurements. I know this forum is getting pretty long, so I'm sure most people haven't read through it all as I have. Seems adding a gallon at a time and marking with a wax pencil works well. I would definitely make sure your surface is dry before trying this.
 
Awesome, you can be my test subject! But seriously what are you doing to prevent rusting, if anything? And PLEASE let me know if you see any potential problems.

You can see my earlier posts where I etched my stainless 37L Spike kettle, and 7qt Target brand stock pot. I have 0 rusting, and didn't do anything special to prevent rusting. Stainless passivates almost immediately, aluminum does not.

If you get any rust on stainless, you just use some bar keepers friend to remove it. Done. I've got quotes from the owner of Spike saying this, and John Palmer says the same thing (he's a metallurgist and a host for Brew Strong on The Brewing Network, also writes for BYO).
 
You can see my earlier posts where I etched my stainless 37L Spike kettle, and 7qt Target brand stock pot. I have 0 rusting, and didn't do anything special to prevent rusting. Stainless passivates almost immediately, aluminum does not.

If you get any rust on stainless, you just use some bar keepers friend to remove it. Done. I've got quotes from the owner of Spike saying this, and John Palmer says the same thing (he's a metallurgist and a host for Brew Strong on The Brewing Network, also writes for BYO).



What about Oxyclean? I have plenty of that. Will that work too?
 
I have no idea. I would think that if it did, the guys would have said BKF or oxyclean. I doubt it'll work since it's not designed to remove rust from metal, but you never know! Give it a shot and if it doesn't work, BKF is pretty cheap.
 
CLR would work too, also I bet starsan will do the trick


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Don't worry about rust. Unless your going to leave it on the beach. If it rusts then it will be even easier to see so bonus, but it probably wont
 
GREAT Thread, Thanks to all that have contributed!
Now I'll have to clean my cornies so I can name/number them and their lids.
Brew pot of course will be done first priority!
Cheers and Beers!
 
How are you guys making sure your lines are straight? I marked off and tried to tape off, but could never get them straight.

You could use a ruler and measure the waterline mark, then make 2 marks the same distance from the bottom or top as the water mark. That'd be pretty straight.
Mine aren't straight, I just eyed it and got it as close as I could. I couldn't fit my head and both arms in either of my kettles; I did try.
When I was marking my lines, I used a crayon and drew a 1" line at the water level, with the kettle sitting on a level surface.
Worked well enough for putting the first tape on, but getting the second piece in place so the resulting lines would be of similar thickness was difficult.
Just remember, it's home made, it's not going to be perfect. And any markings you get, are going to be better than the no lines you had before.
Just don't etch until you're comfortable with what you laid out. It can't be erased easily.
 
I used blue masking tape and a crayon. Then I would go back with a box knife and cut out little rectangular lines. When I was happy, I went at it with the etching. Then I went back, applied the numbers, and etched them too.

As mentioned by Kyt, make sure you are happy with how you lay out your markings. I think I peeled and reapplied tape 3-4 times before going forward with the etching. Once you start there's no going back.
 
I've geeked a bit on marking mine. I measured with 1/2-gallons of water to about 7 gallons and clipped a ridge of doubled-over duct tape at the waterline each time. I transferred those clip-marks to a long strip of paper. I pulled the paper out, measured the marks and duplicated the distances up the remainder of the paper to 15 gallons (accounting for the bowed-out "ribs"). I've taped the paper strip back inside the keg and run a strip of blue painter's tape alongside the marked edge of the paper. Now I'm going to cut lines out of the tape where the marks are on the paper. I made a line cutting jig for my xacto from an old Starbucks gift card. All in the name of making it correct and neat. We will see how it turns out.

And I tried too ... Can only get head and shoulder--not shoulders--into the keg.


Sparky
Making beer and hard cider in Southern Virginia since 2011.
 
One my 8 gallon kettle I marked out 2 lines one for 6.5 gallon and one for 5 gallon using a dull punch that I rounded out, tap tap TAP on it worked :) best way not to compromise the integrity of you pot by etching or grinding


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One my 8 gallon kettle I marked out 2 lines one for 6.5 gallon and one for 5 gallon using a dull punch that I rounded out, tap tap TAP on it worked :) best way not to compromise the integrity of you pot by etching or grinding


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Yea, but it's not nearly as cool, and nothing lasts forever!

Of course I'm once again the hypocritical parent; as I recently had the same/reverse conversation with my teenage daughter about the long term side affects of sunbathing. :)


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Don't forget to level the vessel!!!!! Otherwise, you'll be way off!

And, wherever you brew....check your level.

Otherwise, measure from the center with a rod and call it a day.
 
This looks great, I have a plan for my brew pot! Question, could you use a battery charger, I have one to charge the RV 12-volt, seems I could use the two clips off the battery charger and attach leads to them and have all the power I'd need?
 
I taped this up last night and ran out of time to etch it though. I will finish it tonight hopefully. Not the straightest but it will do.

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I etched my aluminum kettle and at first it looked great. After using it a few times, between the oxide layer, some baked on wort, poor lighting in my garage where I brew, and rising steam, I can't see the etching at all. It's pretty hard to see under the light with nothing in it even. I etched fairly deep and you can feel the numbers and lines, just difficult to see them. I'd love to etch a design on the outside, just not sure what to do yet.
 
Here's my attempt. I think it turned out ok. I'm curious how long it will last. I used electrical tape and then 3M striping tape to mark off the fine points. A razor blade and a business card helped keep the lines (somewhat) straight. The stencils are reusable glass etching stick on's from Michael's. I used an old ac adapter I had lying around. Striped wire is your negative. I found the solution worked best with twice as much salt as the op's formula. It's going to turn black and splotchy and look inconsistent, but don't get discouraged. Hit the final product with a sponge and some Barkeeper's Friend and it will clean right up.

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Used mine yesterday on Stubby's Baytown Brown and it worked out very well. Markings held up to boiling, scrubbing, and PBW. I'll definitely do this to the 80qt kettle I've got my eye on.


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:off:

How you like Stubby's kits?


Well, I've brewed two. The Palo Pinto Pale Ale, which I haven't tasted yet. It's in the keg carbing now. Then the Baytown Brown just yesterday. I'm sure they will be great.
Before these, I've used him for all of my ingredients for clone kits and tons of hardware and supplies.

The kits are put together well and priced competitively. It also doesn't hurt to support my LHBS. I've met Brenden a few times through a mutual friend before the homebrew shop came along and before I started brewing. He's always been a real down to earth guy and even though he's a very respected member of the fast growing beer scene here in DFW and owner of a rapidly growing LHBS, he's still that same guy. Try a kit sometime and see for yourself. He's also got a couple of YouTube videos out now, as well.


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This is how mine turned out on my aluminum kettle. Even with the oxide layer, I can still see the markings very clearly! I am very pleased with how it turned out.
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I may have missed it through this entire thread but has anyone used a foam brush instead of a Q-tip type of applicator?


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