My 5+ Gallon 120v eBIAB Rig (Build / Pics)

Somebody asked if I could post details of my 120v ebiab build. I've had great success with this set up. My brew days are fast (from start through clean up) thanks to the simplicity of the system. That said, I think there are two other elements of my "brewery" that are critical to making/serving good beer (for a total of three important elements). The other two are: (1) fermentation temp control w/ $50 mini-fridge and (2) keg/draft system.

Anyway, here's my build I hope you find it useful. I've annotated the pics too, please take a look.

Key parts:
Bayou Classic 62qt Stainless Steel Kettle (Amazon)
BargainFittings.com: 3 piece valve, weldless fittings, thermo/sight fitting
Camco 02853 1500w ULWD elements (2 from Amazon) - Note these are a mystery and are probably neither 1500w nor ULWD, either way they don't scortch
Reflectix insulation (Lowes)
Camco in-line water filter (Walmart) and potable hose (Lowes)
Electrical fittings, box, etc (Lowes)
CFL indicator lights (Radio shack)
BIAB Bag (awesome! contact your very own Wilserbrewer and get one)

And here are your pics of the rig, brewing last weekend (more pictures in next post):

And here are a few more pics:

And then finally, I measured the temp over time using both 1500w elements. This is for 7 gallons of water starting at 80 degrees (hot North Carolina tap water, ick!. Basically 30 minutes to go from 80 to 165. I'm fine with that. Also, once it's boiling I can maintain a good boil with just one element. I use both if I need to burn off water.

Minutes Temp
0 80
9 110
13 118
17 129
22 142
29 163

Looks great! Can you go into more detail about how you mounted and grounded your elements? I'm about to start on my 110v kettle and trying to figure out how to ground and cover the wire.

jrb03 said:

Looks great! Can you go into more detail about how you mounted and grounded your elements? I'm about to start on my 110v kettle and trying to figure out how to ground and cover the wire.

Click to expand...

I'd also like to see how you "potted" the connections on those elements.

Check out THIS THREAD for more ideas on how to pot your elements

Dgonza9 said:

I'd also like to see how you "potted" the connections on those elements.

Check out THIS THREAD for more ideas on how to pot your elements

Click to expand...

"Potting" was super easy. The conduit (gray plastic part) is threaded on only one side (see pic). The non-threaded part fits snugly over the black plastic base of the element. Just slap a bead of JB weld on the element and press together. Done.

Note that I have the ground wire exiting the conduit through a snug hole in the conduit. The two ground wires from both elements have a spade connector on one end. They are secured to the kettle where the sight tube is mounted (with an eye bolt).

Finally, this is not a water proof solution. The threaded part of the fitting is not water proof, just splash proof. I've attached a pic...

One more thing worth noting... I made the holes in my steel kettle using the world's cheapest knockout punch kit from Harbor Freight. It's true... you too can own a functional knockout punch kit for $15 (when on sale). Yes, they are absolutely not professional grade. Did I mention that it cost $15???

http://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-91201.html

Thanks for posting! What size breaker do you have the elements going to? Both on the same breaker?

windycitybears1985 said:

Thanks for posting! What size breaker do you have the elements going to? Both on the same breaker?

Click to expand...

I have two 20amp circuits that I connect to. Each element connects to one circuit. When I had the two 2000w elements they were drawing about 16amps. But now that you ask... I realize that the new 1500w elements are only drawing about 13 amps... so I could get by with using the standard 15amp circuits.

Thanks!

Nice rig you got there. When I priced a new 220v line to the garage and it came with a $700+ price tag, I pondered a double 120v much like this one instead. Although I'm on gas now, I still wish I could flip a switch and get to brewing.....

Enjoy the fruits of your labor

rhamilton said:

Nice rig you got there. When I priced a new 220v line to the garage and it came with a $700+ price tag, I pondered a double 120v much like this one instead. Although I'm on gas now, I still wish I could flip a switch and get to brewing.....

Enjoy the fruits of your labor

Click to expand...

Thanks rh!

Maybe I missed it, but where's the GFCI so you don't electrocute yourself?


Did you replace the two 120v breakers with GFCI breakers or are you plugging each of these into a GFCI breaker cord or a gfci wall outlet adapter?


Right now, I'm pretty scared for your safety and I wouldn't recommend anyone copy this design without GFCI.



Adam

How are you chilling? If by IC, I think you are asking for a world of infection hurt by the "gravity aeration" method you are showing.

-BD

biertourist said:

Maybe I missed it, but where's the GFCI so you don't electrocute yourself?


Did you replace the two 120v breakers with GFCI breakers or are you plugging each of these into a GFCI breaker cord or a gfci wall outlet adapter?


Right now, I'm pretty scared for your safety and I wouldn't recommend anyone copy this design without GFCI.



Adam

Click to expand...

He's probably a goner, having electrocuted himself almost three years ago, which is when this thread was last updated.

Yeah - forgot to look at the date!

-BD

seatbelt123 said:

"Potting" was super easy. The conduit (gray plastic part) is threaded on only one side (see pic). The non-threaded part fits snugly over the black plastic base of the element. Just slap a bead of JB weld on the element and press together. Done.

Note that I have the ground wire exiting the conduit through a snug hole in the conduit. The two ground wires from both elements have a spade connector on one end. They are secured to the kettle where the sight tube is mounted (with an eye bolt).

Finally, this is not a water proof solution. The threaded part of the fitting is not water proof, just splash proof. I've attached a pic...

Click to expand...

same way I did mine except I used the clear epoxy from harbor freight

EDIT** drats! The dead thread revival got me again!