ebay aquarium temp controller build

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timdsmith72 said:
HI! I just picked them up out of the "Lamps" bin at radio shack when I got the project box. The red one is called a "Red Neon Lamp Assembly." Catalog Number: 272-712.
I wanted red for heating and blue for cooling, but they didn't have a blue one in this type or any other blue ones that I liked, so I got a green one and just pretend it's blue when it comes on. :drunk:

Here's the Radio Shack link to the red one if you're interested. 120VAC Neon Lamp Assembly (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com
Click to expand...

Excellent, thank you!
 
Can I ask for a short specific answers? ( I'm reading thru the MANY pages of this discussion but.... ) I'll stop looking at this specific unit if it will not work ( but continue readi ng to learn more... )

Can I use this controller with just a fridge to turn it on and off as needed for a reliable and reasonably accurate way to maintain correct temperature range for a lager beer?

The basic question is "I would not be wasting money buying this would I?
 
JimConal said:
Can I ask for a short specific answers? ( I'm reading thru the MANY pages of this discussion but.... ) I'll stop looking at this specific unit if it will not work ( but continue readi ng to learn more... )

Can I use this controller with just a fridge to turn it on and off as needed for a reliable and reasonably accurate way to maintain correct temperature range for a lager beer?

The basic question is "I would not be wasting money buying this would I?
Click to expand...

If you're referring to the STC-1000 or the single-stage one that looks almost identical to it, yes. It can definitely regulate the fridge to maintain lager temps.
 
JimConal said:
Can I ask for a short specific answers? ( I'm reading thru the MANY pages of this discussion but.... ) I'll stop looking at this specific unit if it will not work ( but continue readi ng to learn more... )

Can I use this controller with just a fridge to turn it on and off as needed for a reliable and reasonably accurate way to maintain correct temperature range for a lager beer?

The basic question is "I would not be wasting money buying this would I?
Click to expand...
Absolutely!! I built one of these for my fermentation chamber (chest freezer). Texas weather can be.... unpredictable to say the least, so I built one of these:
Wort-O-Matic: Fermentation Can Heater
The temp controller heats or cools the freezer as needed very nicely.
 
timdsmith72 said:
Absolutely!! I built one of these for my fermentation chamber (chest freezer). Texas weather can be.... unpredictable to say the least, so I built one of these:
Wort-O-Matic: Fermentation Can Heater
The temp controller heats or cools the freezer as needed very nicely.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. My freezer is sitting at 60 now and I was looking for ways to heat during the winter.
 
Can I use 18 awg for the plug to the project box? I might be too small of a wire but I got a free printer power cord from work and would like to save a few bucks.
 
mdineenwob said:
Can I use 18 awg for the plug to the project box? I might be too small of a wire but I got a free printer power cord from work and would like to save a few bucks.
Click to expand...

No. It's possible, depending on the load, but you really shouldn't either way.
 
milldoggy said:
Use 14, to be really safe, add an inline 10 amp fuse since the controller is only rated for 10 amps.
Click to expand...

Isn't that overkill? The controller is $23 bucks. If it is ruined ill just get another one.
 
mdineenwob said:
Isn't that overkill? The controller is $23 bucks. If it is ruined ill just get another one.
Click to expand...

I use a fuse, mostly for safety reasons and because it's just good practice. I have two controllers mounted in my box though, so there's that too. But fuses for this kind of application are really dirt cheap anyways...

14AWG, on the other hand, I would say is a must.

And with regards to both the use of 14AWG and a fuse, I should add that you just NEVER know what some idiot might randomly decide to plug into the box. It probably won't happen, but since it's even possible, they are smart steps to take. And if for some reason you need to use smaller gauge wire, a fuse absolutely becomes a MUST in order to make sure the wire isn't overloaded.
 
emjay said:
I use a fuse, mostly for safety reasons and because it's just good practice. I have two controllers mounted in my box though, so there's that too. But fuses for this kind of application are really dirt cheap anyways...

14AWG, on the other hand, I would say is a must.

And with regards to both the use of 14AWG and a fuse, I should add that you just NEVER know what some idiot might randomly decide to plug into the box. It probably won't happen, but since it's even possible, they are smart steps to take. And if for some reason you need to use smaller gauge wire, a fuse absolutely becomes a MUST in order to make sure the wire isn't overloaded.
Click to expand...

Ya. Sounds like a smart idea. It's just something I plug into the wall outlet? Can be had at the Home Depot?

On that note - is a 14 awg extension cord sufficient?
 
Just get a roll of 14 thhn wire for home depot. Wire inside romex or an extension cord might not be suited for use outside said extension cord. Radio shack has fuses and fuse holders and probably the wire also. The fuse is inline, so power in from cord, to fuse, to controller. Color does not really matter. I use all white in mine, just mark hot, ground and neutral with colored electrical tape.
 
I just ordered my controller tonight, but I didn't look at my freezer rating first. The controller says 10 amps max, and my freezer says 12 amps max (it says it should be plugged into a 15 amp outlet). Can I still use this controller? Can I/Should I increase the output of the controller to 15 amps?

Sorry if these are dumb questions. Thanks for the help/inspiration!
 
Put mine together last night. I used two outlets - one will be hot, one will be cold, and each will have their own fan I think. I used a red light, front and back, that switches on with the heat, and a green light front and back that switches on with the cold (couldn't find any blue lights at RatShack). I'll need to do something to solidify the outlet mounts, probably install a brace to support each outlet as the box flexes quite a bit when plugging something in.

This was a fun project - thanks to all who contributed to this thread.

tcontrolf.jpg


tcontrolb.jpg


tcontroli.jpg
 
It looks like a nicer unit....And it should work fine..The only problem that I see is the Temp. probe. Although I like the looks of it....It looks more heavy duty, sturdier than the other one, I don't see a way to attach it to your brew bucket/carboy.....There is no flat side to tape to it to get a accurate temp. reading......That could be problem....

If you plan on somehow putting it directly in your wort, than this one would probably be a fine unit if not better....
 
redman67 said:
Just a heads up, I think
This controler , while it is a great deal for a PID, will not work as this thread intends You will need an ssr or two to make it work.
Click to expand...

Yep, which is the main reason most people opt for the STC-1000. That pid would be perfect for a control panel of an automated or semi automated brew system though.
 
heyjaffy said:
Put mine together last night. I used two outlets - one will be hot, one will be cold, and each will have their own fan I think. I used a red light, front and back, that switches on with the heat, and a green light front and back that switches on with the cold (couldn't find any blue lights at RatShack). I'll need to do something to solidify the outlet mounts, probably install a brace to support each outlet as the box flexes quite a bit when plugging something in.

This was a fun project - thanks to all who contributed to this thread.
Click to expand...

I'm going to put mine together this weekend copying your design. I love the lights as they give it a much more professional look!

What did you use to secure the strip to the box?

What did you use to cut out the holes so clean? I don't have a Dremel and wondered if I could use a small hack saw and sanding paper.

We're you able to figure out the issue with the outlets needing to be more securely fastened?
 
mdineenwob said:
I'm going to put mine together this weekend copying your design. I love the lights as they give it a much more professional look!

What did you use to secure the strip to the box?
Click to expand...

Adhesive, I think it was called goop

mdineenwob said:
What did you use to cut out the holes so clean? I don't have a Dremel and wondered if I could use a small hack saw and sanding paper.
Click to expand...

I used a speed bore drill bit in my drill to cut the initial round openings, then I taped an outlet cover on top as a template to cut out the detailed shape of the outlets. I did that final cut with a dremel bit, but could have done it just as well with an xacto blade or hack saw blade.

mdineenwob said:
We're you able to figure out the issue with the outlets needing to be more securely fastened?
Click to expand...

Yep. Last night I cut down a piece of c-channel steel that was originally meant to mount shelf brackets to a wall. I cut it to length so that it would fit behind the outlets - there are ribs running vertically in the project box - the c-channel happened to fit right between a set of these ribs. I used some adhesive to tack it in to place, though it already wedged in pretty tight, then screwed a screw in behind the c-channel as extra bracing - it looks a bit more hacked together inside the box now but the outlets are solid. This is confusing without a picture - I'll take a pic tonight and add it to this post.

tempco_ib1.jpg


tempcoib2.jpg
 
Got my controller in yesterday. Got my keezer build last week. This is now taken highest priority on my To Do list. I'll be attempting to get all the stuff today. Wish me luck!
 
Brewnoob1 said:
Got my controller in yesterday. Got my keezer build last week. This is now taken highest priority on my To Do list. I'll be attempting to get all the stuff today. Wish me luck!
Click to expand...

When did you order it? I'm eagerly checking my mail every day to no avail...
 
I actually ordered it back on Dec 9th. It said it was delivered on the 27th, but I didn't find it in my mailbox until yesterday.
 
If anyone just needs a single-stage controller, I have a couple leftover. PM me if you're interested.
 
Wired up the controller to the schematic from the OP and fired right up. Plugged in my freezer, waited the 10 min delay that I set my controller at and watched the freezer click on. WOOHOO! I have ZERO, 0, NADDA, ZIP, ZILCH, NO electrical knowledge and was able to do this with following the instructions, doing my homework on this thread, and using common sense. If I can do it, anyone can. Dual stage controller in work FTW! My keezer is now complete and up and running. Wish I wasn't at work so I could pour a pint...who cares that it's only 5:40 in the AM :mug:

Though I will say, I went for the submerged in water idea for my probe. I watched the temp fluctuate a bit much for my taste and want to stabilize the temp swings. So, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the probe will not be effected by water since it is an aquarium controller!
 
Silentknyght said:
SSR = solid state relay?

For the electrical layperson, why won't it work just like the STC-1000 will? Is that controller functionally identical (i.e., also "won't work without an SSR") to this one?

New Digital PID Temperature Controller Thermostat K thermocouple sensor | eBay
Click to expand...

The Relay is needed to do the actual swithing of the current to the controled device
The controler that you posted is a PID which can sense and respond to temp conditions but it only puts out a signal voltage that tells the SSR to open and close the load
 

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