I did not listen...

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movet22

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Haddon Heights
I didn't listen to Kal and a number of others who say time and again: Don't use a cheap step bit. Well I did. The step bit that Bobby M sells for his weldless fitting worked so well for those minor applications, that I tried to use it for my 1 1/4'' holes for my heating element installs. What a mistake!

Let me start by reiterating: Bobby's step bits worked GREAT for the weldless valve and sight glass install. He represents that product 100% prefectly and I IN NO WAY blame Bobby for my stupidity.

When a bigger hole was needed, I ended up hardening the steel around the 1'' step on my HLT. My heart sank and I thought I was doomed. I immediately ran to Lowes and picked up a greenlee 1 3/8'' step bit... What a difference!

I was able to easily get the last .25'' on the HLT and blew through my BK with extreme ease.

People who may be considering doing what I did, listen to me: DON'T! I know the greenlee bit is expensive, but it makes drilling in steel so easy that I could do it, and I am TERRIBLE with this kind of stuff.

To the sages whom I did not listen to... I apologize and seek forgiveness :mug:

Also, now that I have no more use for the step bit, I am willing to sell it at a discount to anyone who was deterred from spending the full number on one. I would really like to trade it for one of the GFCI inline 30a 240v cords :)

PM me if interested and happy brewing!
 
No offense, but I'm sure that more than one of us in HBT land has made due with the cheap set of step bits that Harbor Freight sells. I used this set to drill 2X 1-1/4 and 8X 5/8" without a problem. All it took was time, patience, pressure, and lots and lots of WD-40. No doubt that Greenlee's are definitely the way to go, if you have one handy (or want to drop big $$$$), but even cheap step bits will work. . .
 
@PLOVE: I may have been able to make it work if I REALLY tried, but I could tell that the effectiveness was wearing. I need everyone to keep in mind that my skill set with tools and such is extremely limited. I can do minor to moderate work, but only in spurts. I was in over my head with this. The greenlee bits are so good that even with my lack of skill, patience, ect, I was able to get the holes done without any worry.

@Bobby: I punched the smaller holes (sight glass/valve) with a cordless 12v 450/1500 rpm dewalt that worked fine, but when that started to slow down (around 1'' when doing the elements), I switched to a corded 12v 2500rpm Skill that was able to power through a bit more, and then, when paired with the greenlee was able to absolutely crush a full 1 1/4'' hole.

I want to be as clear as possible: I am NOT saying that this cannot be done without the greenlee bit. I am just saying that for someone like myself (little to no handy skills) the higher end bit allows you to get away with more when making the cuts.

I am no electrician/carpenter/any other hands on profession... I work in advertising... my bottle labels will always garner more acclaim than my handy work. So keep that in mind when reading of my struggles.

I do however, greatly appreciate everyone's help as my brewery comes to fruition!
 
Consider yourself lucky to have a new pot to be drilling holes in. lmao. I should have went to college...
 
I've heard a 1.25" conduit punch is the way to go, no?

They're great, but that's all they can do. A step bit will give you 10-20 different sized holes whereas a conduit punch gives you only one for about the same price.

I've got both step bits and conduit punches for work. If I didn't and I was only making 2 holes 1 1/4" max in a pot/sanke I'd buy a cheap step bit from harbor freight, dip it in oil and drill relatively slow (800rpm vs 3000rpm). It can be a hit/miss thing to use the conduit punch in the curved side of a pot. If the pot is relatively thin (under 10 gauge) you might be ok but I'd be leery about a punch getting bogged down, especially in stainless.

When I made my brew controller the conduit punch was a life saver. If you're doing more than 10 small holes I'd recommend getting the punch.
 
brewfreeordie said:
They're great, but that's all they can do. A step bit will give you 10-20 different sized holes whereas a conduit punch gives you only one for about the same price.

I've got both step bits and conduit punches for work. If I didn't and I was only making 2 holes 1 1/4" max in a pot/sanke I'd buy a cheap step bit from harbor freight, dip it in oil and drill relatively slow (800rpm vs 3000rpm). It can be a hit/miss thing to use the conduit punch in the curved side of a pot. If the pot is relatively thin (under 10 gauge) you might be ok but I'd be leery about a punch getting bogged down, especially in stainless.

When I made my brew controller the conduit punch was a life saver. If you're doing more than 10 small holes I'd recommend getting the punch.

Great info, thanks! Is there a difference between a conduit and chassis punch? If so which one would I use for the element hole, and what size?
 
I want to be as clear as possible: I am NOT saying that this cannot be done without the greenlee bit. I am just saying that for someone like myself (little to no handy skills) the higher end bit allows you to get away with more when making the cuts.

+1 to this.

There's many ways to make a hole successfully. The important thing to remember is that the Greenlee punches will give you highest success rate. They're basically impossible to screw up, so that's why I always use them myself and also recommend them.

Kal
 
kal said:
+1 to this.

There's many ways to make a hole successfully. The important thing to remember is that the Greenlee punches will give you highest success rate. They're basically impossible to screw up, so that's why I always use them myself and also recommend them.

Kal

From the man himself.
 
Stainless hardens from both working it and heat....so the key is to keep the work cool and use an aggressive bit so you are undercutting the work hardened steel.
 
I don't really need it at this time but I do like tools. I wouldn't mind having a used greenlee step drill at the right price. How much does the GFCI inline 30a 240v cord that you are looking for cost? I sent a PM to you but if paypal is not good send me a counter solution.
 
I have been told time and time again from some really good machinists to use a little vinegar when drilling stainless. So I admit I have tried this and it does work killer. I now use carbide (and sometimes vinegar) to do all my large hole cuts and step bits with the smaller 1/2" stuff but in a pinch with lesser bits the vinegar is the way to go....Why does it work, I have no idea but the stainless drills like butter.

Cheers
Jay
 
Great info, thanks! Is there a difference between a conduit and chassis punch? If so which one would I use for the element hole, and what size?
Conduit punches are based on conduit size which isn't the actual size. For example, a 1/2" conduit punch doesn't make a 1/2" diameter hole, it actually makes a 0.622" hole. See:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/conduit-size-d_1738.html

Chassis (sometimes called 'radio') punches make holes the size that they are rated to be. In other words, a 1/2" chassis punch makes a 1/2" diameter hole.

Most elements require a 1-1/4" diameter hole. So a 1-1/4" chassis/radio punch would be the right size.

Pictures and more information here in the "STEP 4: Punch a hole in the kettle" of my "Heating Elements" article:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements?page=6

Kal
 
Now I need to go drill more holes in my Keggle just to test this theory... What wizzardy are you using?! :D

Yeah me too! I been meaning to install that sight glass in my HLT, but the last time I tried using my (worn) HF step bit it seemed to have lost its luster. I've been planning on buying a new one (maybe even greenlee) but I'm going to try vinegar with the old bit first. If it works I will be extremely happy!
 
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