Immersion heater for rims

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BrewHead802

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some have told me i need an ultra low watt density heater for my rims. well i need some more opinions. ive got a PID from Auber as an SSR. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=30

will this immersion heater work?http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=EMH_Heater

i have a two keg rims. 1 mash and 1 sparge/boil kettle. all with march pump and plumbing. but i dont have my temp controller up and running yet so please help.

thanks
 
You need to describe your set up with more detail. Are you making a RIMS tube? Sounds like you might be mixing up the term RIMS. Anyway the heater you show is an expensive low wattage element. My RIMS tube uses a 2000 watt water heater element that costs less than $20. If your looking to put elements into the kegs, then you want something bigger.
 
That heater won't work....it's only 500W.....you need a hot water heater element but you could also look at HOT TUB HEATERS....a very nice compact coil made from durable materials and very powerful. Mounting is a little different, but it's the same concept as far as wiring goes.
 
RIMS stands for recirculating infusion mash system. so a rims tube doesnt make much sense does it. my whole brewing system is a RIMS. ive seen pictures of other guys using a standerd hot water heatstick and the thing corrodes all up and turns black. i want stainless. stainless everything. so thats what im doing. you wanna know wha it looks like. look at billyd4444 on youtube. i based it of his.
 
RIMS stands for recirculating infusion mash system. so a rims tube doesnt make much sense does it. my whole brewing system is a RIMS. ive seen pictures of other guys using a standerd hot water heatstick and the thing corrodes all up and turns black. i want stainless. stainless everything. so thats what im doing. you wanna know wha it looks like. look at billyd4444 on youtube. i based it of his.

Ok - you win.:confused:
 
I simply stand in awe. Does no one really read the thread?
OR - do we all just jump to their own adjenda?

To: BrewHead802

IMHO, Yes it will work. Looks like a neat element. Expensive? - yes. But, I've seen lots of $$$'s thrown at 'stuff' on other builds as well.
 
I simply stand in awe. Does no one really read the thread?
OR - do we all just jump to their own adjenda?

To: BrewHead802

IMHO, Yes it will work. Looks like a neat element. Expensive? - yes. But, I've seen lots of $$$'s thrown at 'stuff' on other builds as well.

What are you referring to sir?

I said "Anyway the heater you show is an expensive low wattage element"
Scuba Steve said "That heater won't work....it's only 500W"

So the two responders to the OP's question both answered it. I don't have any agenda beyond trying to give some advice.
 
sorry for the confusion guys. didnt mean to be such a dick. so the 500 watt element wont work but the 1000 will. i was hoping not to have to buy that one cause it is kinda out of my price range especially after the PID and SSR. but am i wrong about the whole corrosion thing(standard hardware store element corroding into the beer)? im really gunna need help once i get all the materials cause i have noooo idea how this all works. thanks for all the help!
 
To the original poster,

The elements are not corroding, The elements have a zinc plating on them. Underneath the elements are copper. The reason they are zinc plated to because they are designed for hot water heaters. There can be a bit of electrolysis in a hot water heater and the Zinc being less nobile will be attacked instead of the copper. The zinc is easily removed with a scrubby. I did it to my element and it is a nice shiny copper and it never looks black. Of course you can purchase an incoloy element (stainless steel) but it will be a little more money.
 
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