water filter

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rabidgerbil

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The Jan 2007 issue of BYO had an article on page 58 about building a water filter.
I built one of these yesterday, and it rocks.

So far, I have been using the Brita pitcher in our fridge to refill my water jugs each time I brew. A single Brita filter is good for 2 months or 40 gallons, so if I brewed once a week, I would go through a filter about every two months, assuming that I was the only one using that filter. They do a great job, but they are slow and kind of expensive.

It takes 9 minutes for the pitcher to filter 6 cups of water, so 1.5 minutes per cup. I have 6 one gallon jugs that I am refilling, so, not including the refill time to actually put water into the Brita, it will take at least 144 minutes to refill the six gallons. Two and a half to three hours is about normal, from the time I start, to the time I am done, assuming that I set the timer to go off every nine minutes to remind me to do dump the next batch. This is a pain in the a$$.

As to the expense, a 6 pack of filters is $28.43 at Sams Club. That would be enough to get me through a year, brewing about once a week. I am brewing extract with grains, so I only need about 6 gallons per batch. If you are brewing AG, you would go through more, of course. That is no TOO bad, but it could be better.

Following the example of the filter built in BYO, I went to my local hardware store and picked up all of the parts that I needed. I had to make a few minor modifications, based upon what they had in stock, but the total project still came out to be $42. That is for a system that will get me 10,000 gallons of filtered water.

Brewing five gallon AG batches, 50 times a year, that filter will last you for 20 years. Now we are talking two dollars a year for filtered water. Also, filling all six gallons took me about five minutes.

This thing is well worth making, unless you have really good water to begin with.
 
I'm kicking myself for letting my subscription to BYO expire.

I'm looking forward to the copy I bought from Austin Home Brew thought. :D
 
FYI, when you're brewing extracts, your water chemistry is a lot less important...as compared to someone who's actually mashing grain.
 
malkore said:
FYI, when you're brewing extracts, your water chemistry is a lot less important...as compared to someone who's actually mashing grain.

Probably true... but there is a reason that we have a Brita in the fridge...
nuff said...
 
I will see what I can do.
I have the original article, and I know what I modified,
so it should not be a problem.

If I might make a recommendation though,
look in your latest copy of BYO and you will find that they sell back issues for $5 each,
and if you buy five, if my memory serves me well, you get five more for free.

Trust me, it is a good investment.
 
shafferpilot said:
Crappy tasting water = crappy tasting beer every single time.

I definitely wouldn't argue with that, and it sounds like the OP's tap water isn't real tastey. I thought he was just using it for brewing, but now I get it.
 
malkore said:
I definitely wouldn't argue with that, and it sounds like the OP's tap water isn't real tastey. I thought he was just using it for brewing, but now I get it.

I am using THIS filter only for brewing, we use a Brita pitcher in the fridge for drinking water. The problem is the old galvanized iron pipes that the water runs through. Don't filter it, and it will have the occasional off color or taste, you might even find yourself with a nice little rust chunk for your troubles. I have to clean the aerator screens on the faucets on a regular basis.
 
rabidgerbil said:
The problem is the old galvanized iron pipes that the water runs through. Don't filter it, and it will have the occasional off color or taste, you might even find yourself with a nice little rust chunk for your troubles. I have to clean the aerator screens on the faucets on a regular basis.
I've got the exact same problem. If I leave town for a couple days, the faucets run rusty for several seconds, and I constantly have to clean my aerators and shower heads.

I've been using my under-sink PUR carbon filter for brewing, but collecting the water took a lot of time and I was burning through the (expensive!) filters at a rapid rate. Now I'm using an RV carbon filter and hose that I picked up very inexpensively. Works great, and a lot faster.

Something along the lines of this.
 
malkore said:
FYI, when you're brewing extracts, your water chemistry is a lot less important...as compared to someone who's actually mashing grain.

That's true, but chlorine is never, ever good for water. You get all those nasty chlorophenols from the yeast!


TL
 
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abracadabra said:
Hey Tex I actually do agree with you on this one.

And I like DIY projects as much or more than the next guy but some of them are IMHO basically reinventing the wheel. This is one of them especially when you can get water filters for less than $10.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUU5V8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I may be wrong but I seem to recall that the culligan replacement filter was more than that.

The effects of chlorination on water:

http://www.homeenv.com/Art_Chlorination.htm

You are correct, the culligan filter is $15, and since you know it is a culligan filter, you obviously already read the article, as I did not yet post the details of what I built myself.

If you would not mind, if you are going to throw out what you consider to be a better alternative, would you please provide the rest of the details that we will need to use your alternative?

What is the lifespan of this filter that you are recommending? The only thing that I have been able to find about this filter is the usual "Amazon blurb" and it says 120 days, but nothing about how many gallons. The culligan filter is rated at 10,000 gallons. As I have already stated, for a home user that is brewing five gallon AG batches once a week, that will be about 20 years of use. Lets see. One $15 filter every 20 years, or 60 of your $10 filters in 20 years. Seems like I have already saved about $585.

What other parts will be necessary to connect your filter to my home water system so that I can fill my water jugs? How much will those cost? My total build cost was $42. The writer of the BYO article stated that he also spent $40.

I will be the first to agree that there are always other ways to do things. Was it that bad to spend $30 - $40 a year on Brita filters, no... things could be worse, but they are some what pricey, and they are SLOW. My point was that this is a FAST system, compared to many other filters, and it is very inexpensive. In the long run, it is actually costing me more per gallon to have the city pump the water into my house in the first place, than it is to filter it.
 
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rabidgerbil said:
What other parts will be necessary to connect your filter to my home water system so that I can fill my water jugs? How much will those cost? My total build cost was $42. The writer of the BYO article stated that he also spent $40.
You don't need any parts, just screw it onto a hose or faucet bib. It has standard hose fitting threads. It's a good sized filter, and I'm sure it will last MUCH longer than any Brita filter, or my PUR under-sink cartridges. A bargain @ $10, I'm loving mine.

With a water filter, any kind of "gallon rating" is meaningless, because they don't know the quality of the water it will be used with. You and I won't get too many gallons out a filter, due to all the rust & junk in our galvanized pipes. With the one abracadabra suggested, you use it until the flow slows down.
 
BlindLemonLars said:
You don't need any parts, just screw it onto a hose or faucet bib. It has standard hose fitting threads. It's a good sized filter, and I'm sure it will last MUCH longer than any Brita filter, or my PUR under-sink cartridges. A bargain @ $10, I'm loving mine.

With a water filter, any kind of "gallon rating" is meaningless, because they don't know the quality of the water it will be used with. You and I won't get too many gallons out a filter, due to all the rust & junk in our galvanized pipes. With the one abracadabra suggested, you use it until the flow slows down.

Can you backflow that one to clean it? That is one thing that I like about the culligan is that I can simply reverse the flow and blow out the rust and crap.
 
rabidgerbil said:
Can you backflow that one to clean it? That is one thing that I like about the culligan is that I can simply reverse the flow and blow out the rust and crap.

It seems likely, so long as you have the appropriate hose fittings to reverse it. I'm sure the manufacturer doesn't endorse the practice. I'll have to see how long mine lasts before I even consider it, if I can get several batches out of one filter I'll be happy to just buy a new one when needed.
 
rabidgerbil said:
You are correct, the culligan filter is $15, and since you know it is a culligan filter, you obviously already read the article, as I did not yet post the details of what I built myself.

If you would not mind, if you are going to throw out what you consider to be a better alternative, would you please provide the rest of the details that we will need to use your alternative?

What is the lifespan of this filter that you are recommending? The only thing that I have been able to find about this filter is the usual "Amazon blurb" and it says 120 days, but nothing about how many gallons. The culligan filter is rated at 10,000 gallons. As I have already stated, for a home user that is brewing five gallon AG batches once a week, that will be about 20 years of use. Lets see. One $15 filter every 20 years, or 60 of your $10 filters in 20 years. Seems like I have already saved about $585.

What other parts will be necessary to connect your filter to my home water system so that I can fill my water jugs? How much will those cost? My total build cost was $42. The writer of the BYO article stated that he also spent $40.

I will be the first to agree that there are always other ways to do things. Was it that bad to spend $30 - $40 a year on Brita filters, no... things could be worse, but they are some what pricey, and they are SLOW. My point was that this is a FAST system, compared to many other filters, and it is very inexpensive. In the long run, it is actually costing me more per gallon to have the city pump the water into my house in the first place, than it is to filter it.

Yes I did read the article and considered building it. I like doing things like that. And derive a great deal of satisfaction from building stuff.

I'm not recommending any filter just pointing out there are other alternatives for people that are thinking about filtration.

I'm also not trying to throw cold water on your filter. Just trying to get others to think about all the factors involved. Time to buy the parts and build the unit, gas to go to the store. Plus the intial and ongoing cost. For every person that posts here there may be 10 that just read the posts.

Like Lars pointed out many factors go into the useful life of a water filter. One of the factors for potable water is bacterialogical build up inside the filter. A dark wet surface is a perfect breeding ground for bacteria. Hence the 3 month time frame. But since we will be boiling our wort that is really not a concern for brewers.

Another factor in filter longvity is the flow rate. What happens in a fast flow is the carbon channelizes. Think of it as a river or creek channel and when that happens the filter loses effectiveness.

Here's the best way to test the effectiveness of a carbon filter IMHO if your water is chlorinated get a swimming pool test kit and test the chlorine level going into the filter and coming out. Write it down and the minute the chlorine level starts to rise coming out of the filter get another one.

Back-flushing the filter would probably work OK if it became clogged. Just let it run a few minutes in normal mode after you back-flush it.

But if you have a rust or sediment problem a sediment filter will do a better job and are cheaper than carbon filters. When I was on my well I used a sediment filter as a prefilter then a carbon filter as a secondary filter. IMHO carbon filters are too expensive to fill up with rust and sediment.
:mug:
 
rabidgerbil said:
You are correct, the culligan filter is $15,

What is the lifespan of this filter that you are recommending? The only thing that I have been able to find about this filter is the usual "Amazon blurb" and it says 120 days, but nothing about how many gallons. The culligan filter is rated at 10,000 gallons. As I have already stated, for a home user that is brewing five gallon AG batches once a week, that will be about 20 years of use. Lets see. One $15 filter every 20 years, or 60 of your $10 filters in 20 years. Seems like I have already saved about $585.

.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but I think that culligan filter was a shower filter not a potable (drinking) water filter.

So compairing mgf. spec of a shower filter to a potable water filter is like compairing apples to oranges. At least as far as drinking water goes.
 
Yep

"Culligan WHR-140 in line filter. It is normally used in shower heads" according to the article.

I'd think the number of gallons a manufactor would rate suitable for showering and the number of gallons suitable for drinking would not be the same.
 
Ok, so some like this idea, some don't.
That is fine. It works for me, that is all I really care about at the moment.
The water tastes good, and it no longer has that slightly brown tint from
the rust in my water lines.

Now, my apologies to those that are interested in this thing, and wanted to see pictures and a price list.
I had to go hit the LHBS yesterday so I can brew up BierMuncher's Centennial Blonde this weekend, and
also had to rack my Screwball Kolsch to the secondary, and also brewed up my Outback Amber, so it was
a busy day. I will try to get things posted this weekend.
 
I think it's a fine idea.

Some filtering is almost always better than no filtering.

I just wanted to point out to others that there may be cheaper and easier alternatives. And I wanted you and others to also understand that there's a difference in how filters are rated especially if they are designed for different things (drinking water vs shower water). Something the writer of the article and BYO magazine apparently don't know or failed to consider.

And how someone should go about testing the effectiveness of a filter.

Here's the thing a carbon filter will filter rust and sediment but it's designed to absorb chemicals such as chlorine. Pretty soon the rust and sediment will encapsulate the carbon filter particles and render them ineffective. A rust and sediment filter on the other hand is a membrane type filter designed to trap solid particles this type of filter can be backflushed a number of times without losing all of it's effectiveness.

Plus I'd hate for you or anybody reading this post to think they really could get 20 years out of a water filter. Or to drink the water out of a filter that old.

I my younger days I had a class 2 water treatment lic. So I have some idea of what I talking about with regard to water treatment. And I wanted to share that knowledge with others. Just like you wanted to share your experince of building the water filter with others.

:mug:
 
So....if we're to look up getting the back issues....which issue was it that this filter was published in?
 
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