List of PJ Electrical Diagrams

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So.. If I have a 30amp switch mounted to the front of my panel this contactor is not needed?

Correct. The 30amp switch has the operating mechanism (the part you touch) and the disconnecting means (the break in the circuit) connected in the same piece. In the simplest terms possible, a contactor does exactly that, but allows you to separate the two components and mount either one where you'd like. If you've got the switch, you're set.
-Kevin
 
Correct. The 30amp switch has the operating mechanism (the part you touch) and the disconnecting means (the break in the circuit) connected in the same piece. In the simplest terms possible, a contactor does exactly that, but allows you to separate the two components and mount either one where you'd like. If you've got the switch, you're set.

-Kevin

Thanks B-N-B



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Just wanted to see if this diagram should be updated? I found it in the PJ's list of thread, but by time I got to store I realized the diagram showed no fuses what so ever.

???

Assuming it should have at minimum a fuse on the PID? (The other 120v has fuses on pump and pid.)

Was thinking this should be updated and reposted to the start of the list of thread?

untitled.jpg
 
Just wanted to see if this diagram should be updated? I found it in the PJ's list of thread, but by time I got to store I realized the diagram showed no fuses what so ever.

???

Assuming it should have at minimum a fuse on the PID? (The other 120v has fuses on pump and pid.)

Was thinking this should be updated and reposted to the start of the list of thread?

View attachment 190604
You are correct. I drew the diagram quite some time ago and posted it in response to a question asked on the forum. I made a quick diagram to answer the issue at that time.
 
I bought the XLR Male Plug from ebrewey to hook up the Liquid tight K type, 4 in probe thermocouple from auberins.
My question is what gauge wire from the male plug to the SYL-2352 PID?

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1396826252.677764.jpg


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P-J,

You probably don't remember me, but you helped me with wiring my system over the phone and PM a couple of years ago. I just wanted to say thank you and that the system has been working great! I still have the hand drawn diagram I scribbled together, but I can't seem to find the awesome one from you. I really would like to print one out, frame it, and put it up on the wall by my control panel. I hate to even ask, but could I get a new copy? I'd be glad to reimburse you in some way as you've already done me the favor once.

Here is the hand drawn diagram:



Hopefully you get a bigger version if you click on the thumbnail.
 
Deece - Post what you're looking to do. The amperage change will only modify some of the components, unless you want something crazy - IE, what you want to do is going to drive the wiring diagram more than how much power you expect it to handel, and it's likely that a design similar to or identical to what you want has already been done, just with lower amperage components.


Ok sorry it took so long life has been busy lately
Here is what I would like to do:

60amp panel with an E-Stop
5500watt element in the HLT
5500watt element in the Boil
2000watt element in a separate herms vessel

3 pump outlets with indicator lights
When hot

HLT pid (Auber 2352) alarm switch,alarm led,
Element switch, element hot indicator led, element fire led

Herms Pid (Auber 2352) alm switch, alm led, element switch, element hot indicator, element fire indicator

Mash pid (Auber wa-24x1) used just to monitor mash temp and for the timer. Alarm switch, alarm led, timer reset button

Boil pid (auber 2352) alm switch, alm led, element switch, element hot indicator, element fire indicator

Chiller pid (used to monitor temp out of chiller only, and I have it on hand anyhow). Alm switch, alm led

Boil timer (auber jsl-73b). Alm switch and alm led

I also woul like a separate buzzer but with that many alarms i want to add LEDs to know what has triggered

I know this is a huge crazy overkill kinda system but im a bells and whistles kinda guy. Half the fun for me is going to be building this, I just would like to do so correctly. Thanks to anyone interested in helping.


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Hey Everyone,

So I have looked through all schematics in this thread and can't seem to find quite what I'm looking for.

Could anyone help me put together a diagram for...

120v
1 HLT element
1 RIMS Tube element
2 PID (Auber 2352)
1 pump

I know it's a lot for 120v but I've also seen a diagram that runs two 120v outs

The attached is pretty much what I'm looking to do except one less pump and 120v instead of 30A

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1397546277.318498.jpg


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Just wanted to drop in and say a big thanks to PJ for the diagrams. Took two months of researching and many dremel cutoff wheels, but finally got all fired up today. 30a 5500w 1 PID 1 Pump diagram with minor part substitutions. Not the cleanest wiring, but its all correct (first try!).

Using 80qt pot as HLT, infusion pumped to MT, sparge pumped to MT then drained back to BK. Will have to last a few years til I can swing a proper 50a setup... :tank:

CAM00935.jpg


CAM00939.jpg


CAM00890.jpg
 
Nice pictures and clean wires! I do have a question though, what is that black object you are using to insulate the bottom of your kettle to the table?
 
P-J,

You probably don't remember me, but you helped me with wiring my system over the phone and PM a couple of years ago. I just wanted to say thank you and that the system has been working great! I still have the hand drawn diagram I scribbled together, but I can't seem to find the awesome one from you. I really would like to print one out, frame it, and put it up on the wall by my control panel. I hate to even ask, but could I get a new copy? I'd be glad to reimburse you in some way as you've already done me the favor once.

Here is the hand drawn diagram:



Hopefully you get a bigger version if you click on the thumbnail.

AScott,

It took me quite some time to make a new drawing for you. I had to do it from scratch.

As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" X 17")




I hope this helps you.

P-J
 
Pj did you have any interest in doing a diagram for my panel?


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Pj did you have any interest in doing a diagram for my panel?
Reviewing your desired setup it appears to be extremely complex with a total of 6 control devices (PIDs and Timers). I'll really have to think about that one for a while. Not sure about drawing that one out as it would take a huge amount of time to accomplish.

P-J
 
P-J,

Do you have a diagram for a 120v, 2 PID (auber 2352), 2 pump, I element HERMS?


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Totally understand I was concerned with that being a problem. Thanks for taking the time to look at it


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I'm having trouble understanding your desired setup. You say 1 element and you want 2 PIDs... What is your intended design and function?



P-J


P-J

Sorry for the confusion, one PID will be monitoring the outlet temp of the Herms coil and the other will be monitoring HLT temp, I would like the probe/PID that will be at the HERMS outlet to control a heating element that is installed in the HLT


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AScott,

It took me quite some time to make a new drawing for you. I had to do it from scratch.

As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" X 17")




I hope this helps you.

P-J

Thank you, P-J. I appreciate your work and the time it takes. You're a real asset to this community.
 
In my diagram, the separate contactor is required if you're using the 22mm rotating selector switches, which is mainly an aesthetic choice if you're also using the 22mm selector switches for the pumps. Otherwise you can save a bit of money using a rocker switch rated to at least 120V/20A on the output of the SSR.
 
Pj.... Im trying to setup a panel myself. I have 2-4500w elements. I'll be running them separate so what I was thinking was the PID for my HLT and then and a boiler using an SCR controller. I have a 30A line coming into the box to the PID then over to the SCR. Out from both to toggle on/offs then to the 220v outlets in the bottom of the box. Any chance u have a drawing for something like this? Heres a list of the items I have. 2-4500w/240v camco elements, 1- SCR 6500w/220v, 1-PID controller and thermocouple. SSR and heat sink. Im thinking of using 2- 30a breakers as on/off switches. Heres a quick sketch.... Not a big electronics guy but I know enough to get in trouble.ImageUploadedByHome Brew1398427686.491572.jpg thanks for takin a look.


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Pj.... Im trying to setup a panel myself. I have 2-4500w elements. I'll be running them separate so what I was thinking was the PID for my HLT and then and a boiler using an SCR controller. I have a 30A line coming into the box to the PID then over to the SCR. Out from both to toggle on/offs then to the 220v outlets in the bottom of the box. Any chance u have a drawing for something like this? Heres a list of the items I have. 2-4500w/240v camco elements, 1- SCR 6500w/220v, 1-PID controller and thermocouple. SSR and heat sink. Im thinking of using 2- 30a breakers as on/off switches. Heres a quick sketch.... Not a big electronics guy but I know enough to get in trouble.View attachment 195434 thanks for takin a look.
I do not have an image developed for a diagram using the SSVR control function. It will take me some serious time to make it so that I can then draw a diagram.

If you are game, I'll make the drawing and then the diagram. Keep in mind it will take me some serious time to accomplish.

P-J
 
Thanks, Im in no rush but if its going to take up a lot of your time and Im sure you have better things to do. I appreciate the offer though. As basic as my drawing was did it look like Im on the right track? Everything is gravity fed so no pumps or widgets. Theres a few electrical engineers at my work that have a bunch of free time...lol. I'll have them figure it out. Thanks again... Good work on the diagrams I see posted!


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Thanks, Im in no rush but if its going to take up a lot of your time and Im sure you have better things to do. I appreciate the offer though. As basic as my drawing was did it look like Im on the right track? Everything is gravity fed so no pumps or widgets. Theres a few electrical engineers at my work that have a bunch of free time...lol. I'll have them figure it out. Thanks again... Good work on the diagrams I see posted!

Clankenbrew,

It took me a little time to make the drawing for you but got it done. I also took the liberty of including pump control and outlets in case you change your mind or if someone else wants to use the plan.

As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" X 17")




I hope this helps you.

P-J
 
Clankenbrew,

It took me a little time to make the drawing for you but got it done. I also took the liberty of including pump control and outlets in case you change your mind or if someone else wants to use the plan.

As always click on the image to see and save a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" X 17")




I hope this helps you.

P-J

Thanks a bunch.... Your the man!


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I'm guessing that latest design is going to be a popular one! I know there are a lot of people who had been discussing using a rheostat for the boil kettle. On another note, looks like Auber has some super affordable din mount circuit breakers they carry now. I know when I built my 50a system I was kind of shocked at the prices I found some of those at. These are drastically cheaper than what I had found at the time!
 
Love this design PJ!!
This is very similar to the High Gravity controller. Would it take much to add 1 PID with mash temp input that controls pump #1 and the recirculation during mash?
PID #1 would control the HLT element based on water temp in the HLT.
PID #2 would control pump #1, recirculating wort only when the mash temp falls out of range
 
Love this design PJ!!
This is very similar to the High Gravity controller. Would it take much to add 1 PID with mash temp input that controls pump #1 and the recirculation during mash?
PID #1 would control the HLT element based on water temp in the HLT.
PID #2 would control pump #1, recirculating wort only when the mash temp falls out of range
I believe the set up will function as you describe without an added PID. The PID shown controls the HLT temperature and maintains it to the set temperature. There is no need to control a pump based on temperature as you would maintain constant circulation during the entire mash process and thus the preset mash temp.

Just saying.
 
PJ I see your point about not needing to control the pump, starting and stopping the circulation of mash. However, having the second PID to monitor the mash temp independent of the HLT would indicate temp variance from HLT as well as a stuck mash if it occurred. Your thoughts


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PJ I see your point about not needing to control the pump, starting and stopping the circulation of mash. However, having the second PID to monitor the mash temp independent of the HLT would indicate temp variance from HLT as well as a stuck mash if it occurred. Your thoughts
I see your desired point - but - you are talking about another 50 to 90 dollars just to keep check on the mash temp. AND with that you would also need to visually monitor your brew situation full time.

Just another thought. If you periodically visually check the flow of fluid in your mash tun you have good knowledge of the process at that point.

I guess you need to visit somone that brews so that you can watch the process first hand.

Just saying. Very sorry. I'm not trying to be critical of you in any way.

Sorry.

P-J
 
P-J: I can't even begin to tell you how helpful your diagrams have been in trying to develop my own e-brew plans. I was trying to sketch something out like your diagrams, but it's not going so well. Like many others here, I probably know just enough to get myself in trouble. I was hoping I could tell you what I had in mind, and you might have already sketched out something like this for someone else, and I just overlooked it in the thread....

I've got a HLT and BK to control/heat. My MT is a cooler, so that's going to be non-electric for now.

HLT: 5500w element controlled by PID/probe
BK: 5500w element controlled by rheostat (eventually PID/probe, but $$...)

E-stop kill switch, 3 position selector for elements (HLT/None/BK) and then an On-Off for each element.

Plug and on-off for a single pump. Planning to buy a 2nd pump in future, but just one for now.

LEDs for the 3 position selector for the elements, and the on-off for the elements and pump.

I have a friend who gave me a Leviton 6895 GFCI (http://communities.leviton.com/servlet/JiveServlet/previewBody/2046-102-1-3097/Spec 6895.pdf) and a recommendation to start off with a 50A breaker in my house panel and this GFCI in my control panel, and eventually upgrading to a 50A GFCI in my house panel for double security. Do you have any thoughts on that?

Thanks man, I know your diagrams have helped a TON of people already, hoping to add my name to that list :)
 
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