Braid filtered pick-up tube for sanke tun..

I had an idea for a pick-up tube for my sanke mash tun. I didn't want to use the typical set-up which uses a stainless braid with hose clamps. I wanted to make someting that used the braid as an interior type filter instead. Here are my photos;

Here are the pieces before soldering..
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This is after soldering..
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Inserting the braid-filter..
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This is the finished product..
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Doing a test run with water, and it works great! I'm going to brew an amber next weekend with this set-up to see if it works as well with grain in the tun..
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I don't direct fire since my insulation jacket holds my mash temp, so I'm hoping this set-up will work great. If I ever decide I want to start direct firing then I'll make a false bottom some day instead.

Very attractive design, I don't think I've ever seen this done before.

OneHoppyGuy said:

Very attractive design, I don't think I've ever seen this done before.

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Thanks! I wanted to make something unique yet simple. There is no chance of colapse or dis-lodging the braid this way. The cap on the end isn't soldered, so I can remove the braid for cleaning and/or replacement.. I'm excited to try it out!

Very sexy! You gonna have to do the same with my kettle!

GodsStepBrother said:

Very sexy! You gonna have to do the same with my kettle!

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You got it brother! I'd be happy too! I'm going to make one for my kettle as well..

I'll be getting away from my grain bag with this set-up.. No more BIAB, and hopefully I'll finally get better efficiency with this!

Looks good, my compliments.

evandena said:

Looks good, my compliments.

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Thanks a bunch!

Sort of looks like this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/sanke-mlt-stainless-braid-56183/

That isn't a whole lot of surface area. The bigger issue though is that if you were doing BIAB before, I'm assuming you are direct firing the tun. With the grain sitting right on the bottom, you will probably have scorching issues.

I saw your thread before Bobby and it actually inspired this idea, so thanks! I don't direct fire. I live in a very warm climate, and my mash holds it's temp great with insulation. As I mentioned on the original post, if I ever decide I need to direct fire I'll make a false bottom. I did consider the fact that it wasn't a lot of surface area, but I have a funny feeling it won't matter. It's basically an experiment and giving it a try is the only way I'll know if it really works. I'm thinking if I vourloff (sp?) well it just might do a good job. I'd like to incorporate a recirc pump with this set-up, but that is a whole other paycheck in the future..

I think you're probably good to go. If the surface area is too small, you could always move to an exterior braid to at least triple it.

Bobby_M said:

I think you're probably good to go. If the surface area is too small, you could always move to an exterior braid to at least triple it.

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I also considered t'ing off and making 2 pick-up filters at the bottom instead of just the single one..

How did it work? I need a diptube for my BK, and this would also help filter junk out before it goes into my CFC.

It's a very nice looking piece of kit.

My gut tells me that you'll find that if you sneeze at the wrong time you'll get a stuck mash with that piece of kit due to low surface area and compaction.

I agree with Bobby, you'll probably find there's just not enough surface area, and you'll have to make the braid external.

Enough speculation. Put her to the test. If nothing else it looks cool.

evandena said:

How did it work? I need a diptube for my BK, and this would also help filter junk out before it goes into my CFC.

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I'm quite sure it will work great for a kettle. If it works good in my mash tun I'll make another for my kettle as well..

luhrks said:

It's a very nice looking piece of kit.

My gut tells me that you'll find that if you sneeze at the wrong time you'll get a stuck mash with that piece of kit due to low surface area and compaction.

I agree with Bobby, you'll probably find there's just not enough surface area, and you'll have to make the braid external.

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I'm hoping you're wrong, but I'll just have to find out..

iaefebs said:

Enough speculation. Put her to the test. If nothing else it looks cool.

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This coming Saturday I'm putting it to the test with a 10lb grain bill.. Wish me luck! I'm trying to squeeze in the time to DIY a thermowell for my tun before then, as well..

OK............. Bobby M and luhrks were indeed correct. Not enough surface area, and it did get stuck on me. I'm going to see if I can come up with the stuff to throw together a cheap DIY false bottom, but going to use the filtered pick up tube as a secondary filtration device under the false bottom. Thanks for the input guys. I guess experimenting is how you learn, right?!

Thanks for reporting back on the results. Sorry it didn't work out for you.

iaefebs said:

Thanks for reporting back on the results. Sorry it didn't work out for you.

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That's ok.. I'm still thinking the design will work good on a kettle. I'm going to try it next weekend.. The saga continues!

Sorry it didn't work out.

Just put the braid on the outside of the tube like I did. It worked a treat.

Bobby_M said:

Just put the braid on the outside of the tube like I did. It worked a treat.

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That is the problem! I can't seem to find a braid large enough to fit over 1/2in copper tube. That is honestly why I made mine the way I did, because it wouldn't fit outside but did fit inside. The only thing I can find is a water heater braided hose, and it's so expensive I could spend the same amout of money and build a false bottom instead. What size copper and what type braided hose did you use Bobby??

Water heater supply was like ten bux max.

Bobby_M said:

Water heater supply was like ten bux max.

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Wow, the ones at Lowes here were $25 and above. I did just find a washing machine water line on Lowes.com that looks like it might work. It was $10.00 and it's 6 ft long (which is a plus).. I'm on my way to check it out right now!

I tried something similar to your set-up for my kettle. It worked well for whole hops, but for pellets, not so much.

LOWES: Watts 18" Flexible Braided Stainless Steel Water Heater Supply Line

Item #: 25205 | Model #: LBLK BF-18

$8.88

Bobby_M said:

LOWES: Watts 18" Flexible Braided Stainless Steel Water Heater Supply Line

Item #: 25205 | Model #: LBLK BF-18

$8.88

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My Lowes SUCKS! They don't have half of the stuff you can find at other stores across town. All they had was complete water heater "kits" for $27.00.. I found something similar to a water heater hose that was 12" for $11.00.. It worked out well!

I read something on your thread regarding stainless steel hose clamps not having stainless steel screws. How can I tell if mine is stainless or not? I soaked in in starsan for a while.. I figure if it's going to rust starsan will speed up the process so I can tell.. Does that sound about right?

Thanks for the info Bobby!

OK! This thing has morphed a couple times since I was here last. I did indeed put a SS braided hose over the the entire dip tube. It worked great! Me being the inventive type I couldn't just leave it at that, so I decided to make a false bottom and integrate them both together... Here's the pics.

DIY false bottom;
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Top - with dip tube inserted;
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Bottom - dip tube with braided SS;
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Installed;
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Test run with 170F water;
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I'll be mashing an Irish Stout in this set-up in two weeks.. Wish me luck!