Simple e-build for extract brewing in one Boil Kettle

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NewBrewB

Supporting Member
HBT Supporter
Joined
Dec 26, 2009
Messages
807
Reaction score
48
Location
Pace
I have a decent 8 gal brew kettle with a ball valve and welded thermometer port (BE308 from MoreBeer.com) and have brewed 90 gal in 5gal extract kits. I will, in the very long run, be buying and building the e-brewery with kal's directions (already bought the book and started reading/dreaming).

For now, I am interested in going electric just to replace the propane in my process and move everything to the basement. Thanks to my recent wet bar redesign, my Chief-of-Staff has cut off the project funding. On a shoestring budget, I want to

1 Ask a local machine shop to cut a hole in my kettle for a heating element
2 Attach the heating element using the method in kals book
3 wire the heating element to a 220v plug, through some sort of graduated switch (picturing a dial of sorts, with low to high or 1-10, etc)

When I brew, I will use the dryer plug (so no electrician costs), and have to watch the thermometer and use the switch to regulate the water temperature.

Anyone have any thoughts on this relatively simple undertaking?
Ideas for what kind of dial/switch I could use?
Forsee any problems or unexpected costs I'm not considering?
 
you can't use a straight forward "dimmer" switch to control your heating element. There is simply too much power. You're going to have to look into buying an SSR and building/buying a PWM (pulse width modulator) to control the amount of heating.

And I honestly wouldn't do any of this without GFCI protection. That can end up costing you an unexpected pretty penny to add it to your breaker box or buy an in-line GFCI cord or spa panel or something. You can figure $50 in costs to add GFCI protection as a minimum.

Your idea is simple enough, and I know people use things like this. Straight forward electric kettle with a knob to control the amount of heating.

Honestly, it'll probably run you $150 to build this when it's all said and done.
 
you can't use a straight forward "dimmer" switch to control your heating element. There is simply too much power. You're going to have to look into buying an SSR and building/buying a PWM (pulse width modulator) to control the amount of heating.

And I honestly wouldn't do any of this without GFCI protection. That can end up costing you an unexpected pretty penny to add it to your breaker box or buy an in-line GFCI cord or spa panel or something. You can figure $50 in costs to add GFCI protection as a minimum.

thanks for the feedback. I bought an in-line 220v gcfi breaker for $9 from ebay.
Next is trying to figure out how a SSR/PWM works and where to buy the parts.
 
thanks for the feedback. I bought an in-line 220v gcfi breaker for $9 from ebay.
Next is trying to figure out how a SSR/PWM works and where to buy the parts.

Woah! $9 for an inline 240V GFCI? That's probably shoe-in for the deal of the century.

If the seller has more of those and you have a link, post it and share. Better yet, PM it to me and I will post it after I buy a bunch of them. ;)
 
^^What he said!^^

Also, without getting too technical and adding expense to your project I'd suggest using a 3000W element without any control PWM/PID control, just a simple on/off switch. I've found that this is the sweet spot for a 5-6gal batch and you can maintain a nice solid boil with that. True that it may take longer to get up to a boil, but we all have to make sacrifices in life.
 
Wyzazz,

Probably a good call, but I really am hoping(dreaming?) to build Kal's e-Brewery in a couple of years and hate the idea of buying parts twice. I'm essentially trying to piece it out of parts from his instructions so I can re-purpose the parts whenever the time comes.

I made a few other purchases and I'll post about them when they come in the mail. :)
 
Oh dayummmnnnn..... Stuff started to arrive!



5500w element
JB weld
O-rings
Adhesive
Some threaded stuff

Good times ahead! :)
 
Well, I guess I stalled a bit. Kinda getting intimidated on the parts-buying, when it comes to the wiring, plugs, etc. I will update this list later but this is essentially what I have so-far:

Kettle (still have to find a place that can cut my 1.25" hole, or I have to buy the $70 tool)
5500w element
2gang box and lid to house the outside of the kettle where the wires connect to the heating element, through the kettle wall
O-ring and flat nut to attach the element element/kettle
PID controller
Metal electrical box

Still have to figure out:
the thermometer and how it connects to the PID
Heat sink and whether I really need one for a one-kettle system
What exactly the Solid State Relay does and where I should buy one
What buttons and switches I need and where I should buy them
What wiring/cords/outlets I need to get the components talking to each other

If only I could find someplace cheaper and closer than HomeDepot/Lowes
 
Still have to figure out:
the thermometer and how it connects to the PID - First Page
Heat sink and whether I really need one for a one-kettle system - Yes you need one, check this Page.
What buttons and switches I need and where I should buy them - There are various switches on this Page.
What wiring/cords/outlets I need to get the components talking to each other - For this take a look at some of the other builds in this sub-forum, tons of options here.

If only I could find someplace cheaper and closer than HomeDepot/Lowes

Hope some of this helps!
 
wyzazz said:
Also take a look at the wiring diagram supplied by PJ

The wiring diagram intimidates me but fortunately I have some smart friends.

Guys, really, thanks for taking the time to help me get going. The colder it gets, the more motivated I am. (But I also know that once I cut a hole in my kettle, I'm committed...)
 
An "update" with some finality to this thread. I guess I"ll start a new one because I completely changed directions on this project. My original goal here was to get my kettle to the point that I could plug it into the wall and have a dial somewhere in-between to try and regulate the temperature (just like burning propane, but inside the house). Since I've decided to build the big dawg gradually, I'm not going to waste the time/effort completing "Plan A" first.

The more I got into it and the more parts I bought (more $$ I spent), the more I realized I just want to build the real deal (Kal's instructions). Unfortunately, the wife would leave me if I up and spent $3K on beer, so I decided to keep it to the bare minimum, while building everything in it's final Kal position. Initially, I will only have the BK, one PID, one SSR/heatsink, no digital volt/amp meters, no pumps, etc... then, I'll add other components over time.

I bought the actual recommended enclosure from Kal's plans and will start cutting holes later.... probably makes sense to document it in a separate/new thread.


Sorry to everyone that subscribed because you wanted to see an electric build for the shoestring budget. I'm no longer convinced that is worth doing.
 
An "update" with some finality to this thread. I guess I"ll start a new one because I completely changed directions on this project. My original goal here was to get my kettle to the point that I could plug it into the wall and have a dial somewhere in-between to try and regulate the temperature (just like burning propane, but inside the house). Since I've decided to build the big dawg gradually, I'm not going to waste the time/effort completing "Plan A" first.

The more I got into it and the more parts I bought (more $$ I spent), the more I realized I just want to build the real deal (Kal's instructions). Unfortunately, the wife would leave me if I up and spent $3K on beer, so I decided to keep it to the bare minimum, while building everything in it's final Kal position. Initially, I will only have the BK, one PID, one SSR/heatsink, no digital volt/amp meters, no pumps, etc... then, I'll add other components over time.

I bought the actual recommended enclosure from Kal's plans and will start cutting holes later.... probably makes sense to document it in a separate/new thread.


Sorry to everyone that subscribed because you wanted to see an electric build for the shoestring budget. I'm no longer convinced that is worth doing.

thats pretty much what i am doing too. most normal people can't/won't drop 3 grand on brewing stuff in one shot. Im just doing little by little as well. each paycheck i give myself an "allowance" and put it towards beer stuff.

i don't know why I always pick the expensive hobbies.... Ice hockey, Bagpipes, now this!
 
Back
Top