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ZacMac

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I am a extract brewer that wants to make the jump to all grain. I saw the video listed below and it really eased my mind as far as how much was involved. Has anyone watched it and have an opinion on his method. There are 8 seperate videos. Thanks. if the link doesn't work, look under all-grain brewing by chris knight.


 
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zacmac said:
I am a extract brewer that wants to make the jump to all grain. I saw the video listed below and it really eased my mind as far as how much was involved. Has anyone watched it and have an opinion on his method. There are 8 seperate videos. Thanks. if the link doesn't work, look under all-grain brewing by chris knight.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIGrsGPVA_Y

Ive seen the videos and they are pretty informative they will help you out.
 
Yeah I liked his videos so much when I saw them awhile back that I subscribed to his channel hoping he'd do more....

He has a sweet basement setup, especially the drain troughs on the floor and the ability to do propane indoors with his ventilation setup!!

I'm not a kegger, but watching his how to keg videos and the steps he goes through for each batch makes kegging seem like a heckofalotta work...I thought I was a sanitization nazi but he puts me to shame.....
 
Thanks for posting that link. I will be sure to watch it later!
 
Revvy said:
I'm not a kegger, but watching his how to keg videos and the steps he goes through for each batch makes kegging seem like a heckofalotta work...I thought I was a sanitization nazi but he puts me to shame.....
Its not as bad as he's making it look. You don't have to clean the lines with every brew just hook up the new brew when it's ready to drink (i.e. carbed and under pressure) then hook it up and run a pint thru it. Now you are good to go..

As for cleaning the keg, I take it all apart first then fill with hot water and oxyi clean and I then run a brush thru the keg and the tubs. Rinse it all out and put it back together.
I then fill about a gallon of starsan in the keg and with my Autosiphon I use a disconect on the hose to pump starsan thru the post and tubes. Drain then fill. I can clean and keg 10 gallons in a about 2 hours. Lets see you bottle a 100+ beers in that time.
I will clean the kegs the night before most of the time and the sanitize and fill the next night....
 
Great videos, thanks for posting them for noobs like me to get a better grasp of whats involved so I have a CLUE.
 
When I first started reading this thread all that went through my mind was this:

Please tell me it's not a Craig Farraway video.

But what am I thinking....Craig doesn't do AG. He ferments with bird feathers.



But seriously I looked at those vids and I think you're ok. Yuri's videos are pretty good as well, altough a little more technical. His steam infused mash tun is a little intimidating:p
 
Okay, Ive been watching these videos and even taking notes so I dont have to bother you guys to much BUT, I just noticed that Joe heats up his mash water to around 163* and adds it to his grains to dough in about 154* and Booby heats his up to 175* to dough in around 165*. Are there different temps for different grains or are these personal preferences? Okay, upon watching a little further he has kept cooler open till cooled off to 154* Is there a TOO ho temp to add to grains that will make the tannins leach in?
 
I think 160 is your dough in temp limit. But 152-156 is more the range you want to be in. Somebody with experience please correct if wrong but this is what I've gathered from reading.
 
Your target temp is between 152 and 158 so what you do is try to offset the temp drop that will be caused by the cold grains and the cold cooler. The reason the one guy in the video put the hotter water in his cooler is to prewarm the cooler so there would be less heat loss. I don't think he adding the grain until it was down to around 165 or so.

The idea from what I have read is that if you keep your temps around 152-154 you will have a more fermentable wort thus creating a dryer beer with less body. Keeping the mash temp higher around 155-158 will result in less fermentable wort creating a more full bodied beer.

There are several calculators that will help you determine the right strike water temp based on your grain bill, cooler size and grain temp.


Here is a good read about the mashing process http://howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-1.html
 
It depends what your using to mash in. I use a converted cooler, so I bring my water up to 15F higher than I want to mash. This warms up the cooler, then once the temp gets to about 9F above my mash temp I dough-in.
 
Let me clarify for ya. I can only assume that Joe has either preheated the cooler MLT or he was mistaken on the temp. Room temp or lower coolers will pull about 10F out of your strike water. Most software will suggest a stablized strike temp of about 166 to 172 depending on the grain bill and grain temp. This will further equalize down to your desired mash temp of 148-156F.

In my case, I go into the MLT very hot (180-185) to preheat the tun in one shot without wasting water.
 
My strike water gets to 165F, and I put in about 1 quart per pound of grain. I do preheat the mash tun with about 1 quart of strike water before mashing; I probably should have explained that in the video.

Experience will usually give you an idea of the temperature and amount of strike water you'll need to equalize around 153F. The way I see it, if my mash temp is low, I'll put in more strike water or some boiling water, or cold water if it is high. This small amount of extra water is harmless.

I've miscalculated and had the grain 15 degrees off a few times, lower and higher, and was able to correct within 2-3 minutes...beer was fine.
 
Thanx for clarifying this as Im trying to get a good grasp on all this as I collect all my equipment to start. Ill be picking up my cornie and gas set up tommorow and a 170,000 btu King Kooker, maybe a pot or cooler also depending on how much % is left in my wallet.
 
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