Control Panel Question

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McCuckerson

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Hello!, I am building a control panel for an electrical system. I scored a box from work that used to house a 30a 3 pole disconnect before it gave up the ghost and put on a show for us:cross: Anyway, I wanted to use it as a CP but I am a bit hesitant because its not watertight. How important is it for a CP to be watertight? Its a really nice size and would have room for expansion.
 
Mine is not watertight. I have it mounted on the wall out of harms way. I would have to be pretty careless and probably destroy a brew to get it wet. I guess it depends on your application.
 
I was figuring I needed water tight as well, tooootally don't. My box/control panel is 2 feet away from my kettle, on a different stand.

If yours is going to be, say, UNDER the kettle, then I'd maybe think carefully about it. Othewise you're good just don't trip while drinking or sneeze violently at your panel :)
 
Depending on how the panel is set up you may be able to add some weather stripping to help yourself out a little. Like others have said, depends on where it's going to be mounted. Can you use it, sure, should you? That's your call.
 
My panel is not watertight and if it were, I'd still take the same precautions... I try to avoid getting it wet. You can use weather stripping, shields and placement to minimize the risk.

I also have my GFCI in my breaker panel, not the control panel. The GFCI is the component that is most likely to save your bacon if something does go horribly wrong... like a broken hose spraying water in a vent hole & filling your CP.

Ed
 
Mine isn't water tight. GFCI at the wall. Everything grounded. It's up and out of the way....I suppose I could have something really disastrous happen and it get wet, but it's safe enough for me.
 
I don't think ANYBODY has a water tight enclosure. getting a water tight box is one thing, but to keep that rating, all of the components installed through holes would also have to be water tight.

it would be 5hitty expensive.
 
I see, I guess I didn't mean "watertight" but more of and outdoor rated box. I guess I could get away with mounting it elavated from the vessels. Which brings up another question. Wher are you guys mounting your CPs?
 
all_stainless_now.jpg


That kettle closest to my CP is a temporary holding tank. It's empty for most of the session and holds sparge water for about 5 to 10 minutes while I pump MLT (right) into BK (center), then it gets emptied into the MLT.

During chilling, this holds PBW solution (I put the coil in there and pump wort through coil to start my chilling, thus transferring heat from wort to PBW). After chilling, the PBW gets pumped into the BK for an overnight soak.
 
I would not worry too much about it. Make sure you use GFCI and are reasonably careful (meaning placement and don't splash stuff into it).

Mine should be pretty close to watertight, since it still has the original seal and I have a bunch of fittings from work. But I'm not that worried.

I am even thinking about drilling some holes in the side for air flow, then cover the holes with a metal shroud to keep splashing out.
 
Hey guys! Thanks for the great input and photos. Walker and lschiavo: I noticed you only have 1 PID in your CP. Does that control the HLT for mash and then control the BK for boil? The reason I ask is that is exactly what I planned to do.

Thanks again!
 
... I am even thinking about drilling some holes in the side for air flow, then cover the holes with a metal shroud to keep splashing out.
Mine has some holes that I was thinking about filling:cross:. Is your heat sink in the CP or outside of it?
 
I only have one electric vessel. I use it as HLT at start and BK later. But... I use a PWM to control the thing during boil because my PID has no manual mode.
 
I only have one electric vessel. I use it as HLT at start and BK later. But... I use a PWM to control the thing during boil because my PID has no manual mode.
Just out of curiousity why a PWM vs a PID with manual? I haven't purchased my PID yet, so if there is a compelling arguement either way I would love to hear it.
 
I wanted to save money while still having the ability to upgrade. If I ever decide to add a dedicated electric HLT then the PID will control it and the PWM will control the BK. no need for a PID on the bk.

I could have bought a more expensive PID with manual mode and used it now and then added a PWM later but I decided to buy cheap PID and build PWM from the get-go.
 
I only heat my HLT electrically. Boil is still propane (hopefully not for long). The PID is the way to go for the HLT...set your temp and come back later. No need for a manual mode.

Walker's PWM circuit is great. I built one for yoopers CP. When I grow up and start boiling with electricity, I'll build another for my BK.
 
Walker said:
That kettle closest to my CP is a temporary holding tank. It's empty for most of the session and holds sparge water for about 5 to 10 minutes while I pump MLT (right) into BK (center), then it gets emptied into the MLT.

During chilling, this holds PBW solution (I put the coil in there and pump wort through coil to start my chilling, thus transferring heat from wort to PBW). After chilling, the PBW gets pumped into the BK for an overnight soak.

That's pretty frugal there with heating the cleaning water. I use a plate chiller and always hate watching the warm water going down the drain...it costs money to make it warm! I gotta figure a good way to use it.
 
Mine has some holes that I was thinking about filling:cross:. Is your heat sink in the CP or outside of it?

That's a good point. There is no reason I can't mount the heatsink on the outside and not have to worry about ventilation. I had planned on that a while back, but for some reason forgot about it.

I have MANY holes in mine. Top, bottom, sides. I plan on fitting them with plugs and sealant. I suppose I *could* weld them shut, but talk about time and energy!
 
That's pretty frugal there with heating the cleaning water. I use a plate chiller and always hate watching the warm water going down the drain...it costs money to make it warm! I gotta figure a good way to use it.
Can't you just take the waste water coming out of the plate chiller and capture it in one of the empty tanks (HLT or MLT) for cleaning?
 
Walker said:
Can't you just take the waste water coming out of the plate chiller and capture it in one of the empty tanks (HLT or MLT) for cleaning?

Yes, I certainly could and should. I just have to make a few tubing mods. Just haven't done it yet for some reason. I think I'll work on it during my next mash.
 
Yes, I certainly could and should. I just have to make a few tubing mods. Just haven't done it yet for some reason. I think I'll work on it during my next mash.

I've been saving some of the hot water coming out of the CFC and putting it back into the HLT and then using it for cleaning. I got about 20 gallons of out the last 10 gallon brewday, so the extra 6 gallons just went into my pond (and the water was in the 80s coming out by then anyway). It just goes out from the hose, of course, into the HLT. With your HLT on the roof (it seems like! :D) you may need to just climb the ladder and stick it in the top.
 
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