Most gas places in my area, including beverage, fire extinguisher, and welding supply houses, do exchange. Even my local HB shop does exchange. A couple will fill yours if you want, but only on certain days, and you better make it clear that you want your original tank back. Got to call around to find out.
There is a dry ice place close to my home brew shop that fills tanks cheap, however. I use them because I had a new tank and liked it all shiny and new.
I'm now thinking that exchange is not so bad, as when your tank certification expires, you don't have to pay the re-cert fee.
But, as I said, get out the phone book and start calling.....