A good read on hops and fertilizer use.

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Another intersting tidbit, I thought, was the suggestions of returning all the bines and leaves to the yard has a pretty notable impact on fertilization needs.
Click to expand...

The plant equivalent of cannibalism. "Nothing is better for thee than thee."
 
david_42 said:
The plant equivalent of cannibalism. "Nothing is better for thee than thee."
Click to expand...

Yeah. The read suggests a LOT of nutrient gets tied up in the "dry matter". I guess I have just always shyed away from the idea given the propensity for these plants to take root from cuttings but, then again, that wouldn't be so bad now would it.

I guess this approach suggest that any maintenance trimmings are best just buried back into the soil. Easy enough. I had been struggling with cuttings propogating themselves in the compost pile causing a mixed risk if they weren't removed.

From now on, when I trim, I'll just hand dig a hole and drop the trimmings in.
 
I also find the bits on Sulfur and Zinc of interest. Especially the zinc immitating viral tendencies. But, I have yet to find a consumer product for Zinc and non of the chemical fertilizers I use for other plants list Zinc values.
 
So, if I planted my hops using garden soil and some cow manure, how long until I should use some commercial fertilizer, and what type would be good....

There about 5 feet tall now....First year.....

Thanks
 
BrewFrick said:
Miracle Grow baby, works on everything!
Click to expand...

First let me say I'm a believer in Miracle Grow and it's uses. But I have some thoughts/info that might be of use to others. I'll preface by saying all my horticultural knowledge comes from my father whom headed up our family run nursery for 17+ years.

1-MG is most effective when poured/sprayed onto the plants themselves. It has very limited staying power in the soil and is "fertilizer in solution" so it is absorbed through the greenery at very high rates when compared to root contact.
2-It is almost impossible to burn up a plant with MG. See #1 for reference.
3-MG can be used with regular granulated fertilizers.

I prefer to go about 6" outside of the root structure of the hops with a double handfull of 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 after the plants are established in the spring/early summer. In practical terms this means I simply put fertilizer all the way around the base of my hops in a 15-24" diameter circle, carefully working it into the soil. After a week or 10 days has passed I resume Miracle Grow application every 6-11 days.

Just my .02

Schlante,
Phillip
 
BrewFrick said:
Miracle Grow baby, works on everything!
Click to expand...

First let me say I'm a believer in Miracle Grow and it's uses. But I have some thoughts/info that might be of use to others. I'll preface by saying all my horticultural knowledge comes from my father whom headed up our family run nursery for 17+ years.

1-MG is most effective when poured/sprayed onto the plants themselves. It has very limited staying power in the soil and is "fertilizer in solution" so it is absorbed through the greenery at very high rates when compared to root contact.
2-It is almost impossible to burn up a plant with MG. See #1 for reference.
3-MG can be used with regular granulated fertilizers.

I prefer to go about 6" outside of the root structure of the hops with a double handfull of 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 after the plants are established in the spring/early summer. In practical terms this means I simply put fertilizer all the way around the base of my hops in a 15-24" diameter circle, carefully working it into the soil. After a week or 10 days has passed I resume Miracle Grow application every 6-11 days.

Just my .02

Schlante,
Phillip
 
MVKTR2 said:
First let me say I'm a believer in Miracle Grow and it's uses. But I have some thoughts/info that might be of use to others. I'll preface by saying all my horticultural knowledge comes from my father whom headed up our family run nursery for 17+ years.

1-MG is most effective when poured/sprayed onto the plants themselves. It has very limited staying power in the soil and is "fertilizer in solution" so it is absorbed through the greenery at very high rates when compared to root contact.
2-It is almost impossible to burn up a plant with MG. See #1 for reference.
3-MG can be used with regular granulated fertilizers.

I prefer to go about 6" outside of the root structure of the hops with a double handfull of 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 after the plants are established in the spring/early summer. In practical terms this means I simply put fertilizer all the way around the base of my hops in a 15-24" diameter circle, carefully working it into the soil. After a week or 10 days has passed I resume Miracle Grow application every 6-11 days.

Just my .02

Schlante,
Phillip
Click to expand...

Foliar feedings using a garden sprayer are king. Makes for some of the greenest hops I have ever seen if applied in the evening, once the air has cooled some and well before the sun sets.
 
Here's the miracle grow product I am using.

Miracle-Gro Shake & Feed
Shake & Feed takes the guesswork out of feeding - simply shake on in minutes and feed your plants continuously for up to 3 months. Great for use on all types of new and existing outdoor flower and vegetable beds, trees and shrubs.

SKU: S70100813

Formula: 10-10-10


I worked it into the soil in my tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers and plan to do the same with the hop rhyzomes when I get them. I also add more topsoil, potting soil, and lots of manure to the native soil. Using this method I have not yet lost a plant and can get production from the fruiting plants up until October.
 
BrewFrick said:
Here's the miracle grow product I am using.

Miracle-Gro Shake & Feed
Shake & Feed takes the guesswork out of feeding - simply shake on in minutes and feed your plants continuously for up to 3 months. Great for use on all types of new and existing outdoor flower and vegetable beds, trees and shrubs.

SKU: S70100813

Formula: 10-10-10


I worked it into the soil in my tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers and plan to do the same with the hop rhyzomes when I get them. I also add more topsoil, potting soil, and lots of manure to the native soil. Using this method I have not yet lost a plant and can get production from the fruiting plants up until October.
Click to expand...

Just curious, but what's the price on that stuff? Here I pick up a 25lb bag of 10-10-10 for $16 at the local nursery. I also work some of that in with the soil and ocassionally put a handful around the hops. It cant be much different that the "bulk" stuff...
 

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