False Bottom for Keg MLT

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Lil' Sparky

Cowboys EAC
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What do you guys use? I've done some looking around, and I'm a little confused.

I've seen the SABCO folding 15" false bottom - $70. That seems really expensive!

Does anyone use anything else? I would think the plastic Phil's False Bottoms wouldn't work very well - I would think they're too flimsy and not big enough, but on the Northernbrewer website they say that the 12" could be used on a 1/2 barrel keg. What makes it seal and holds it in place? Just the weight of the grain? Doesn't seem right...

Anyone made your own? I called about some SS perforated stock (same thickness and hole spacing as the SABCO), and a 2' x 4' piece would be about $40, but then I'd have to cut it and mount the halves on brackets. Ugh!

The keg I'm putting it in has a drain right in the middle of the bottom. I don't need a siphon tube or anything, so designs like this one from homebrewheaven(http://www.homebrewheaven.com/stainless-steel-false-bottom-kit.htm) wouldn't really work. I think it needs to fit flush against the sides and not be allowed to move around or anything.

Any ideas?
 
You might want to read through this thread. A lot of guys are using braided stainless steel line rather than a false bottom. Check out Monster Mash's pic:


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=8221&page=3


You could probably rig up a length of SS line circling around the bottom to your drain. A piece of fairly stiff copper wire inside the line would keep it from moving about. You could also put a plug in your drain and use a regular Weld-B-Gone fitting in the side of the keg.

A couple of thoughts, anyway....
 
Does anyone use anything else? I would think the plastic Phil's False Bottoms wouldn't work very well - I would think they're too flimsy and not big enough, but on the Northern brewer website they say that the 12" could be used on a 1/2 barrel keg. What makes it seal and holds it in place? Just the weight of the grain? Doesn't seem right...

i use Phil's false bottom and have had no problems with it being flimsy. just make sure your pick up tube is of hight temp thick walled tubing so that the weight and temp of the grain isn't able to collapse it.

tubing%20005.jpg


this is in a ten gallon gott and I've had grain up to the rim without any problems from the false bottom.
 
LL, if I can't figure something else out, I think plugging the bottom would be a better option than trying to rig a SS braid to the bottom. It's a 1" threaded outlet, and I'll need to screw a nipple into that. I'm still thinking a false bottom and using the existing drain will work. I was just hoping for a cheaper solution than $70.

Brewhead, thanks for your input.

Here's the issue w/ what I'm trying to do, though. I woun't be using a siphon tube like you've got. My drain is directly in the middle of the bottom of the keg. Also, you're false bottom is made for your cooler - it's the same diameter. I'm trying to do this in a 15" dia. sankey keg. It's counter-intuitive to me that a 10" or 12" false bottom would work, even if they could withstand the weight of 25+ lbs of grain.
 
Lil' Sparky said:
LL, if I can't figure something else out, I think plugging the bottom would be a better option than trying to rig a SS braid to the bottom. It's a 1" threaded outlet, and I'll need to screw a nipple into that. I'm still thinking a false bottom and using the existing drain will work. I was just hoping for a cheaper solution than $70.

I think the SS braid idea will work for a lot less than $70.

Get a threaded-to-compression adapter and a small length of copper tube to go into the compression fitting. Clamp the stainless braid onto that. I like the idea of a semi-rigid copper wire inside the SS braid.

The other thing you could do is build a copper or CPVC manifold, either or which would also be way less than $70.
 
Yeah, the other thing is the hole in the top of the keg is only ~ 12", which is why SABCO makes the 15" that folds to go through a smaller opening.

I may just have to bite the bullet and go with that, make my own, or put a plug in the drain and go out the side like LL suggested.

Thanks for your help.
 
cweston said:
I think the SS braid idea will work for a lot less than $70.

Get a threaded-to-compression adapter and a small length of copper tube to go into the compression fitting. Clamp the stainless braid onto that. I like the idea of a semi-rigid copper wire inside the SS braid.

The other thing you could do is build a copper or CPVC manifold, either or which would also be way less than $70.

I'll look and see what I can find @ the h/w store. I'm not sure I have enough threads to screw something into both sides of the threaded drain. Might be a little leak-prone.
 
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