Keggle mash tun - need advice

I'm planning on building myself two keggles, one as HLT and the other as mash tun. My doubt is what to use on the mash tun, false botton or bazooka screen. Any advices?

False bottom.

+ 1 false bottom

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/11-sanke-stainless-steel-false-bottom.html

works great.

False bottom for the win....

I made a false bottom out of the top that I cut off the keg by cutting slots in it with my angle grinder. Works great and saved me $100. I think there's a thread on here somewhere about it.

BenS said:

I made a false bottom out of the top that I cut off the keg by cutting slots in it with my angle grinder. Works great and saved me $100. I think there's a thread on here somewhere about it.

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That's a good idea. Gota link? I just searched and couldn't find it.

No. But it was pretty easy. Step 1, cut a lot of slots in top. Step 2, jam rubber stopper in keg top hole. Step 3, jam mash tun dip tube into stopper hole. Done. Time for a homebrew.

BenS said:

No. But it was pretty easy. Step 1, cut a lot of slots in top. Step 2, jam rubber stopper in keg top hole. Step 3, jam mash tun dip tube into stopper hole. Done. Time for a homebrew.

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Rubber Stopper at almost boiling temps?
I don't know about that.

Full diameter false bottom (15") with hinge and handle... :rockin:

Rubber Stopper at almost boiling temps?
I don't know about that.

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Why not? Can't be any worse than using a plastic igloo cooler as a hot water vessel.

BenS said:

Why not? Can't be any worse than using a plastic igloo cooler as a hot water vessel.

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You got a point there.

I made a bottom drain sanke mashtun by using a 2" triclamp fitting. I stumbled onto an easy weldless option to keep the false bottom from sliding around. I figured there was some way to use the lip on inside of the Sanke neck that the spear normally rests on and while wandering around Home Depot I found this in the electrical dept.

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I found that a 1/4" male flare threads fit the aluminum connector. After that it was fairly simple to find a 1/4" to 1/2" bushing and a 1/2" cap to finish it off and voila!!

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my test fit on a previously cut out sanke top.



Then all you gotta do is cut out the bottom of the sanke, wrap it 3 or 4 times with reflectix and you are good to go. I taped the reflectix on w/metal duct tape and put 3 layers on the bottom of the sanke around the neck to help keep the mash temps stable. It worked really well for me. I just started a Dogfish 120 minute IPA and did a 90 minute mash without losing more than 1 degree and that's with 33 pounds of grain.

Golddiggie said:

Full diameter false bottom (15") with hinge and handle... :rockin:

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Hey Golddiggie, was checking out the photo you posted in 2011 of your MLT false bottom, could you tell me more about it? Who made it (if it was purchased) and how does the dip tube stay in place in the center? is it simply hanging down and only attached to the ball valve, or is it attached to the screen as well?

Thanks,

I've got the same FB and it's awesome. From Nor Cal brewing solutions. Highly recommended.

Dip tube just slips through a hole in the FB, no mechanical connection.

If you plan to direct fire, a full 15" disc is highly recommended to keep grain from touching the heated surface.

Hand down, get a norcal "jaybird" false bottom.... 15" hindged, Well worth the money..Get the extra support if you plan on a constant recirc..

H0tshoe said:

Hey Golddiggie, was checking out the photo you posted in 2011 of your MLT false bottom, could you tell me more about it? Who made it (if it was purchased) and how does the dip tube stay in place in the center? is it simply hanging down and only attached to the ball valve, or is it attached to the screen as well?

Thanks,

Click to expand...

It's a Jaybird/Norcal false bottom. Only thing I've changed is removed the bulkhead from the setup and connected the dip tube to a fitting that goes directly into the ball valve. If you tell Jaybird that's how you want it (or have the rest already) he can make the hole in the FB to match. I can bend my own dip tubes now, so it's no issue for me.

Personally, the ONLY false bottom I'll buy is from NorCal/Jaybird.

The false bottom that I got with my mash tun let a lot of grain through...I ended up putting a brass T inside and steel braiding so I have two drain points. Works a lot better. My false bottom was the one that comes from AIH for what it's worth

Natdavis777 said:

The false bottom that I got with my mash tun let a lot of grain through...I ended up putting a brass T inside and steel braiding so I have two drain points. Works a lot better. My false bottom was the one that comes from AIH for what it's worth

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I also had a problem with the one from AIH, I now use a BIAB in conjunction with the false bottom. Now I have very fast cleanup and no grain gets through. If I had to do it over I would probably go with the Jaybird false bottom as it is about the same price.

-G

HDIr0n said:

I also had a problem with the one from AIH, I now use a BIAB in conjunction with the false bottom. Now I have very fast cleanup and no grain gets through. If I had to do it over I would probably go with the Jaybird false bottom as it is about the same price.

-G

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The NorCal/Jaybird false bottoms are highly rated for a reason. IME, they're 100% worth every penny. Plus Jaybird is a stand-up guy and actually cares. For ANY keggle, or kettle, I'd use a NorCal false bottom before even thinking about any others. He'll even make you one to any size you need. Even if it's some oddball kettle size. If you ask him nice, he might even make you one that's not round.

Golddiggie said:

The NorCal/Jaybird false bottoms are highly rated for a reason. IME, they're 100% worth every penny. Plus Jaybird is a stand-up guy and actually cares. For ANY keggle, or kettle, I'd use a NorCal false bottom before even thinking about any others. He'll even make you one to any size you need. Even if it's some oddball kettle size. If you ask him nice, he might even make you one that's not round.

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I have a different false bottom but his stainless sparge arm is awesome. Spent a minute or two looking around on the norcal brewing supplies site. Great products, nice people.

Went with both. Have a false bottom (jaybird) and used to use a bazooka t instead. i just kept the same copper diptube, installed the hinged false bottom and then the bazooka t underneath. probably overkill but what else am i going to do with it?

btw, the reason i wanted the false bottom in the first place was not efficiency; it was so i can direct fire while mashing without stirring and scorching.

I really like threads like this!

Thanks for all the great feedback guys! Let me know if there is anything I can do to help you build your dream system! I do strive to build the very best false bottom systems out there. They are NOT the least expensive I know. I have worked very hard to keep my cost down and build a better system, sometimes you just have to concede to quality!

Thanks for all the continued support! I will continue to work my ass of for you guys and love every minute of it!

Cheers
Jay