dark color every time...

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dumptrucksally

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I just bottled my third beer today. I was going for a summer ale..

I used 8oz of Golden promise and then 4 pounds of Light DME..

It came out like a ipa color.. I was thinking it would have color similar to a cream ale.

Any one have any ideas why it came out dark?/
 
What I have done to keep the color lighter with extract batches is to add only enough ME to give yourself a low OG in the pot. You will get lighter beers, and you will increase your hop utilization.

At the last 15 min. add the remaining extracts and complete boil.
 
I've started switching to a late addition too, and it has made a big difference in the color the last two batches. I thought, however, that you still needed to biring it back to a boil and get the hot break to help with chill haze, etc.
 
There's no break with DME. ;)

What is going on netween the time I add the DME and hops and my wort is trying its best to erupt out of my brewpot like Mt. St. Helens and the time it settles down into a well behaved boil where I can go read a few chapters of a book and not worry too much? I always thought this was when the hot break happened--when all the proteins (re-?) coagulated and it stopped foaming.

Don't ever use LME if you're worried about color. Even the lightest LME will give you a darker color than you would like. But with DME, I always do 3.5-4.5 gal boils with all the DME called for in for the full boil, and never have problems with color.

For example: I did "Rhoobarb's Corn Country Cream Ale" last summer and got a brew worthy in color of the best of the megabrews by boiling in 3.5 gallons: 3 lbs Briess Pilsen DME + 0.5 lbs corn sugar + 1 lb Cooper's Extra Light DME for an hour and making up to 5.25 gallons.

I also use a heavy bottomed stainless steel pot on an electric stove.

But I always feel like when something goes awry with color or flavor it is due to too long of a steeping period on the specialty grains, which tends to lead to dark color or unwanted caramel/maple syrup flavors.
 
What is going on netween the time I add the DME and hops and my wort is trying its best to erupt out of my brewpot like Mt. St. Helens and the time it settles down into a well behaved boil where I can go read a few chapters of a book and not worry too much? I always thought this was when the hot break happened--when all the proteins (re-?) coagulated and it stopped foaming.
Good question...;)

The volcanic reaction is actually the oxygen being released from the malt as it dissolves into the water.
 
Is there a hot break with LME or do both types of extracts not have a hot break?

The reason there is no hot break is because the wort has already gone through this process before it even gets to you. Your extract (dry or liquid) is simply wort that has already gone through a boil and then concentrated. What you have in the bucket or bag is the same that all-grain brewers have going into their fermenter (less hops, unless you have hopped extract).

Now, there will likely be *some* hot break but not enough for any real consideration. You may notice some form on the surface but so very little that it has no effect on the beer itself.

It does, but indirectly. Mainly in the fact that a short boil time doesn't give the sugars in the wort enough time to caramelize.

This can be good or bad. For most beers the caramelization is a detriment, since it will darken the beer. For some, that caramelization is what lends a nice caramely sweetness and deepens the color of the brew as desired.

Overall the main goal is to get your boiling volume the close to the SG you expect your full batch of beer to be, then dump the remaining extract in at the end before flameout to sanitize it.
 
Do you want to do the late addition with all brews, or just the lighter-style brews?


The darker or more malty the beer the less I would worry about it. Something like a Hefeweizen I definitely would, whereas a Dead Guy Ale clone I wouldn't worry about it so much.
 
Do you want to do the late addition with all brews, or just the lighter-style brews?

I would say do it as much as possible. But this doesn't need to be a very tricky process either.

Very high gravity boils cause a number of things to occur. One major thing is maillard reactions, which is actually what causes the darker colors (true caramelization occurs at much higher temps). But there are also plenty of reactions (including malliard) in a very high gravity boil that can lend to the common "extract twang".

The easiest way to do this is to calculate how much extract you need to plop into the boil for a "normal" gravity (roughly what the original gravity for the batch should be). You can use brewing software, write out equations, or use free online calculators such as the recipator @ http://hbd.org/recipator/ to figure this out.

Lets run through one with a nice standard 5 Gallon American Pale Ale batch:

For 5.5 gallons
6 lbs DME
.5 lb Victory
.5 lb Crystal 20L
----This gives us an OG of 1.052

If you dump all the extract into a 2.5 gal boil this brings your gravity in the pot to 1.114!!!

If you drop the DME in the beginning of the boil down to just 2.5 lbs, that brings the gravity in the boil down to 1.051 -- almost exactly what your OG will be in the fermenter. You've just created the same environment in the pot as you would have during a full boil.

Now this doesn't need to be perfect either. You can play around with different numbers and eyeshot the amounts going into the boil. Sorry for the long post, hope this helps clear things up!
 
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